Oops, we did it (the South Island) again… (Part1)

**Hitcher** · 21st March 2005, 20:48

Over six weeks in the South Island on bikes within a calendar year must almost qualify us for residency status. Mrs H was born and raised in Ashburton, so already holds a passport to this paradise for motorcyclists and I assume that that qualifies me for “spousiality” rights…

This latest trip took us over a lot of roads we’ve travelled previously (yay!) and over some new trails (Catlins, Palmerston to Kyeburn, Alexandra/Lawrence/Milton, Waikari/Scargill/Greta Valley loop). It was also our first serious outing on the Big Red Honda (BRH) and the Shiny Blue Marauder (SBM). The BRH clocked up 3,411.1km in 10 days at an average fuel economy of 16.8kml. This included two no-ride days. The SBM did about 240km fewer, as Mrs H decided to be a pillion on the day we rode into and out of Milford, so that she could better enjoy the magnificent scenery. The SBM turned in slightly better economy at the pump on some fills.

I am a believer in the theory that it takes about 8,000km to get truly in synch with a bike. I achieved that with the ST this trip. One thing I’ve learned about the ST is that it is a major handful in a big gusty crosswind. By “big” I mean wind strength in excess of 80kmh gusting upwards from there. The day we rode southwards across the McKenzie country was such a time. The stretch from Lake Ruataniwha to the Lake Ohau corner required total concentration. Mrs H had a much easier time of it on the lower slung Marauder.

Later that day, just south of Kurow, the wind immediately changed from a hot norwester to a freezing southwester of such ferocity that it was blowing limbs off poplar trees and cones off pine trees immediately in our path. Apart from being clipped by a plummeting poplar limb, no harm was done. We were planning that evening to ride through to Dunedin but such was the wind and its associated freezing rain that we holed up for the evening in Oamaru. The last stretch of this journey was spent holding on for dear life at about 70kmh in third gear. Again, Mrs H had a much more pleasurable ride on the SBM.

Again we travelled down and back on the Bluebridge. Top boat, top crew, top service, top bike facilities.

Monday 7 March: Bluebridge to Picton, Picton to Kaikoura.

The 1pm sailing got us across to Picton and on the road over there at about 4pm. While waiting on the Wellington side we got talking with a couple from Liverpool on a Honda Africa Twin. They left Liverpool in 2000, overlanded to India before freighting the bike to Australia, where they had spent the previous two years, most of which was based at Ayers Rock. I wish we’d had longer to chat with them.

It’s hard to be restrained when arriving in the South Island. That lovely stretch of road from Picton to Tuamarina beckons and whispers in your ear such things as “Faster, Hitcher, faster!” However the Blenheim constabulary is aware of this road’s seductive charms and can generally be relied on to loiter strategically shortly after the arrival of a ferry. No harm done this time!

Late afternoon had arrived by the time we arrived in Blenheim, and warm earthy tones enveloped the parched hills, reminding us we weren’t in Guatemala any more, Dr Ropata.

Next thrill in store, the Dashwood Pass. Stock truck halfway up. Bugger.

In fact slow traffic heading our way was the flavour of the afternoon, so from about Seddon onwards we were pretty much in dawdle mode.

Requisite photo stop at Snoswalds Church south of Ward, and again soon after for coffee and wees at the Kekerengu Store.

There is no such thing, in our experience, as a bad run down the Kaikoura Coast. This day there was a slight on-shore wind but with no real salt spray to foul visors. We were in shadow from Kekerengu southwards, bursting back into bright sunshine again at Hapuku on the Kaikoura peninsula.

After checking in to a motel we walked to dinner at a pub overlooking the sea and watched the colour slowly drain from the day as night fell, whilst dining on a feast of local seafood.

What a great way to start a holiday!

[Photos: The whanau watch their riders drink coffee at Picton; Mrs H indicates where we've come from and where we're going outside Snoswalds Church (St Oswalds for the purists)]