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Thread: WAHHH! Duffed my paint

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Owl View Post
    There are an awful lot of variables to consider MSTRS and no one answer. Even Prepsol should be used with caution around fresh paint. Especially when working with plastics and flexible additives.
    On the other hand, I’ve used thinners on vehicle panels with no issue whatsoever. I think the key is being able to identify what you’re dealing with and respond accordingly.
    Naturally. Until the paint is properly cured, any type of solvent etc is likely to activate the remaining solvents in the surface of the paint, combining with them and softening said paint. With predictable results.
    For most of us, it would be impossible to identify one sort of paint from another, so best to play safe and use products that are unlikely to react. Prepsol, citrus-based, eucalyptus oil...perhaps even turps.
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by HungusMaximist View Post
    Methylated spirits O.K?
    Good question! Should be fine, however my experience with MS has been to remove Deoxidine from bare steel.

    Quote Originally Posted by HungusMaximist View Post
    Anybody want to do list of 'DOs' and 'DON'Ts' products/cleaner for painted fairings ?
    No!

    Like I said to MSTRS, there are an awful lot of variables to say this product is ok, this isn't etc. I've witnessed Prepsol remove paint faster than paint stripper, but he obviously hasn't and probably never will (not talking about fresh paint either). For the most part though, Prepsol would be fine and it is a good product.

    Here are some tips and things to look out for, that you may or may not find useful.

    My advice would be to test your desired cleaning product/s in a discrete location (inside a fairing etc). Any problem should become apparent fairly quickly. Look for problem signs like the cloth becoming harder to move on the paint surface. If it does, don’t panic, just stop!
    If 2K clear coat starts to soften, it will get a rubbery feel to it and start trying to gently grab the cloth. This will be more apparent if the paint contains a plastic flexible additive, as it will already feel rubbery. This type of paint is very chemical/solvent resistant, but it’s not PROOF!
    Lacquer clear coat is an air-dry thermo plastic and will be a hit or miss affair. It’ll be fine or it will melt and it will happen fast!
    Two things I’ll stress.
    1. Don’t ever think that because you used a product on one vehicle, it’ll be ok on another!
    2. Never ever leave a product soaked cloth on paint work for an extended period even if you’ve tested it and think its ok. It more often than not won’t be ok!!!

    Oh one more thing. I heard a rumour that a new Buell was written off recently because the owner had cleaned it using a citrus based cleaner. That cleaner turned out to be “Simply Green” apparently, so CBC is still fine. Of course it was just a rumour.
    Nunquam Non Paratus

  3. #18
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    Good advice, young man.

    Quote Originally Posted by Owl View Post
    I've witnessed Prepsol remove paint faster than paint stripper, but he obviously hasn't and probably never will (not talking about fresh paint either).
    Actually, now that you mention it, I have. Cheap home-applied aerosol paint. I'd hazard a guess, and say if the paint is petrol-resistant, then the products in question should be fine. But like Owl says, check on a spot that is 'out of sight'.
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSTRS View Post
    Never use IPA for that...now you know why.
    Prepsol is excellent, as is eucalyptus oil and some of the citrus cleaners. I think you will find that any product for tar removal will be good.
    Duct tape generally is made from raw rubber broken down by benzine based solvent with a % of Toluene.
    Tar removal products will be the best bet as they have been tested on various types of paintwork before being released and tar is a benzine based product.
    There are however, acrylic based duct tapes and citrus cleaners work best with those glue formulations.

    Easiest way to tell if you have solvent or acrylic duct tape is to sniff it. Mmmm smells like solvent or Ewww smells like bum will give you the choice of what to remove the residue with.

    The solvent based adhesive tape is the better grip product, acrylic glues have some catching up to do but with increasing constraints on air VOC production (pollution) there is more study into the replacement of these old style adhesives.


    Regards,

    Michael

    Sellotape NZ Ltd.
    A division of Henkel Adhesives KGA
    Blast From The Past Axis of Oil

  5. #20
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    Cheers MSTRS and no, the Buell wasn't mine! Just not sure if the claim has closed, so its therefore a rumour.
    Nunquam Non Paratus

  6. #21
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    Methylated spirit will remove the finish on the alloy/silver coloured Suzuki frames.
    DAMHIK

    Desolvit (citrus based stuff) seems to do a good job
    Member, sem fiddy appreciation society


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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by avgas View Post
    haha yep done that
    - you should have used citris cleaner.......for ANY STICKY STUFF. Trust me, i used to be knee deep in industrial labellers and date coders in a previous job.......CITRUS IS BEST. (even then MEK). 3M make the best one - but i think its commercial only.

    - only perfect fix now is sand and respray. If you want to "bluff it" you could try a really soft rubbing compound with a really awesome polish
    mek eats away at abs plastic be careful with it , its nasty stuff
    i make abs glue of of the stuff from abs sheet

    plastic fabricator/welder here if you need a hand ! will work for beer/bourbon/booze

    come ride the southern roads www.southernrider.co.nz

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