Starting problems

**CookMySock** · 23rd May 2009, 17:03

Bike is an 2005 Hyosung GT650R.

Cold engine, full choke, no throttle, start, instant fire off and high idle. All good.

Ride to town, shut it down, try to start and "whirr..." engine does half a turn like the battery is real flat or the engine is hydraulicing.

Leave it for an hour - warm engine, no choke, normal start - normal engine spin over and instant start, normal idle.

Ride for half an hour and shut it down. Same as above - engine does half a turn, no more, dash lights go out. So we push start it - starts easily, idles and runs perfectly.

Ride for another half an hour, same as above, won't start. Push start it - starts perfectly.

Ride it home - one hour, and get the test meters out while the engine is still idling. Batt terminal volts 11v. No current flowing in the 12V batt plus red lead. 10-15A flowing in the Batt negative lead from the loom to the large chassis strap.

Stop engine. Wont start - same as above.

Come back an hour later - flick starter, engine starts normally! Stop it. Start it - wont start???

Anyone got any ideas?

Steve

**sinfull** · 23rd May 2009, 17:05

Battery !.....

**CookMySock** · 23rd May 2009, 17:13

Originally Posted by sinfull

Battery !.....

Thats what I was thinking, but it starts perfectly well if left for an hour, and the battery is not even a year old, and it has done this once before (I thought it was just a flat battery then.) The battery terminal voltage DOES drop to 4V on cranking - a death knell for the battery for sure. Tomorrow I will swap the battery with a known-good one (going out for dinner tonight)

Steve

**Leyton** · 23rd May 2009, 18:02

My starter motor in my old holden done this when it was hot. Electricity does not conduct to well through hot wires, Perhaps it is a failing connection if it is not the battery ?

Try the bat from your other bike

**Mom** · 23rd May 2009, 18:05

You have a dud battery for sure. Just because it is not that old does not mean it is not U/S. Is this original that came with the bike? More and more I am hearing of new supplied consumable parts that have a less than "normal" life span.

**vifferman** · 23rd May 2009, 18:23

I thought you knew everything about everything?

Now I'm worried....

I've heard summat similar before, with the starter being faulty and sucking away the current.

Another common problem with many bikes is the charging system - presumably you've checked the connections in the charging circuit to ground and to the battery, and tested the output at idle, and at higher rpm to make sure the R/R is behaving itself?

**cowpoos** · 23rd May 2009, 18:24

thats just odd...is the battrey terminals tight?? earth earthing well??

Have you got a multi meter?

**p.dath** · 23rd May 2009, 18:48

I'm not mechnically minded, but I did have a funny problem with a car of mine once. Turned out to be the cable that transports the power from the battery to the starter motor. It had developed a high resistance, which made it difficult for the starter motor to pull sufficient power to start reliably. Took the mechanic ages to figure out.

**Macontour** · 23rd May 2009, 18:58

Check all the battery and electrical connections are tight.

**CookMySock** · 23rd May 2009, 20:28

Battery terminals are tight. Battery is a Yuasa, 6 months old, purchased from the bike shop - supposedly top quality.

It IS odd that the battery terminal voltage is only 11V with the bike running. It should be 13V, so either the battery has dropped a cell, or... what.. theres still plenty of power otherwise.. the bike ran well all day. Actually, it did give a slight but clear miss or two - just a wee stumble at low speed - it doesn't normally do that.

Tomorrow I will swap the battery for known good one.. Perhaps I should pull the battery out tonight and give it a zap on the charger overnight. I did a full three hours running on it, and it would still start the bike perfectly well, but just not when the engine is warm, where it completely refused.

Yeah I have a DC clampmeter that does almost anything. A tool that I could never be without now.

Steve

**cowpoos** · 23rd May 2009, 20:35

get battry voltage while off...and while on. and yeah...swap battrys if you can.

**Shaun P** · 23rd May 2009, 21:09

Originally Posted by DangerousBastard

Battery terminals are tight. Battery is a Yuasa, 6 months old, purchased from the bike shop - supposedly top quality.

It IS odd that the battery terminal voltage is only 11V with the bike running. It should be 13V, so either the battery has dropped a cell, or... what.. theres still plenty of power otherwise.. the bike ran well all day. Actually, it did give a slight but clear miss or two - just a wee stumble at low speed - it doesn't normally do that.

Tomorrow I will swap the battery for known good one.. Perhaps I should pull the battery out tonight and give it a zap on the charger overnight. I did a full three hours running on it, and it would still start the bike perfectly well, but just not when the engine is warm, where it completely refused.

Yeah I have a DC clampmeter that does almost anything. A tool that I could never be without now.

Steve

Buy it a 1 way ticket back to Korea