At this point I have developed an art for hijacking threads. My curiosity always gets the best of me. And I cannot get enough of kiwibiker. I would like to build myself a furnace for melting aluminum like so many of you have before me. I have a good opportunity to grab a formed refractory in a steel enclosure for free. They are used in diesel and natural gas/propane fired boilers here in the states. We use them for mobile ground thawing machines for winter construction projects. Is there any mandatory guidelines for design? Will this work?
I have added a photo of one of the bare refractorys that we stock. The large hole on the front matches up to the steel enclosure box that the refractory sits in. There is a 3 bolt flange where a burner attaches. Also shown is a natural gas burner that I could easily convert to propane. The photos will most likely be any direction except correct. I would make a plate for the top lined with refractory material. I know this is probably 100 steps in reverse for most of you, but I still must ask to avoid wasting time.
freshly cast and machined 440cc uniflow castings although a few years ago now.
Seeing as there is a steel enclosure, I guess it already has insulation between it and the steel? - (ceramic wool makes a good insulator) but if it's ready made for commercial work then it'll probably be fine!
I can't actually tell what size it is, but you'll have to buy a crucible to suit and make some sort of ceramic pedestal for it to sit on, and to get it in the correct relationship with the burner (ie tangentially with the bottom of the crucible) and of course it needs a removable insulated refractory concrete lid. - and there are gaping holes there! and who knows how they are filled, but they'll have to be filled with something!
Anyway, there is a wealth of ideas on the net, you just pick your way through them and figure out for yourself which parts are best - that's what I did and built one from scratch (you've got a head start on me with the ceramic inner and burner ready made!).
Sometimes though, adapting things to suit can be more difficult than scratch building! - it's not the exact science it's made out to be and it can be done a thousand different ways!
You will also need to make foundry tools etc. -(make up or buy all the stuff - whatever) - things like moulding boxes, mouldng sand mixes, tongs and various other tools.
Safety first is the most important thing of course, so take your time and think every move through carefully beforehand and at the pour make sure that every foundry tool is within easy reach! ..... BTW, Water and molten metal do not mix - a no no!!- explosions!!
If you use your head (and You Tube etc.) you'll get there, just persevere - good luck!
Strokers Galore!
Yes fuel pump on the camshaft, methanol, yes fuel injected.
I think its out in the wood shed as well?
I know, too many side projects.
Data logging a YZ125 cases, to make a new set, to be able to go out to 175cc. 60 bore, 61 stroke. It will fit, just.
New cases, nice large dia rotary disc valve.
OP uniflow.
I did a redesign with full skirt pistons. It makes a much better engine. I hope the ports are narrow enough so I don't need to pin the rings, hard for me with 1 mm thick rings. The transfers are straight in with a 5 degree up angle. I can easily adjust them for swirl and various up or down angles depending on the piston design. One thought with central squish is shown, but dished pistons with the squish at the edge could be substituted. They would work with either straight in or down angle transfers. Any thoughts?
Lohring Miller
I'll start with 3D printing the parts and assembling everything to catch the mistakes I expect to find. I then need to decide how to make everything. I could send it out to be 3D printed or print the parts for investment casting. Though I have a kiln and foundry, I have more confidence in others for things like this. I can do the machining. Then comes dyno testing. It will be a long project. I may try a simpler, single cylinder 26 cc engine first.
Lohring Miller
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