Coming to New Zealand for a 6 week tour (Jan-Feb 2011)

[BMWST?]

I can believe meters of rainfall..

Thanks for the link Paul, I was almost there, typed in me password and says it can't find the server. I depend on hotmail a lot when I travel, but I may have to move on with another server........

let me know if i can help in any way,gonna try something here

[FJRider]

I can believe meters of rainfall..

Believe 6.8 metres ...

And for those that haven't been there ...

http://www.queenstown.net.nz/index.p...=Milford_Sound

[olegeezer]

Tuesday, January 25, 2011.. I had a good nights sleep listening to the Tasman sea lapping up onto the shore. I'll be hard pressed to find a better camping place than this. Leaving Punakaiki I had a thought in the back of my mind that I could come back this way on my return. I stopped at Pancake Rocks and really enjoyed the place. The short hike did not take long and I continued south down the coast at a comfortable pace. I don't think I've seen a police officer since I cleared Nelson? The weather was great and it made me feel good just to be riding to someplace I've never seen before. I stopped at Franz Josef glacier and walked a short way with a nice couple from Australia. They were here for a few more days and we had a good chat before they took off in their rented "Hippe Camper". It did seem strange walking though a tropical forest? to the edge of a glacier. Wonder where else you can do that? The scenery down the coast was great and I'm still looking forward to going over the passes going to the east. Just as I got into Haast it started to rain so I slid in sideways (just kidding Shafty) to another backpacker place. There are several families here eating dinner in the lobby. I have two beds in my room and no roommate. All is swell here in the south.

Wednesday, January 26
Whilst looking for breakfast I stopped to look a wad of motorcycles at a motel. A lady was preparing to pack her bike and invited me to ride down to Queenstown with her group. I accepted her offer and rushed off for some coffee and food. The small cafe had a sign up advertising "whitebait" for sale. I inquired as to what this was and the owner told me it was a delicacy and said she would fix a sandwich for me with egg and whitebait fish (small minnows I was told, and not used for bait). I had to try it and said yes. It was good but tasted mostly like a fried egg sandwich to me. It was also a little pricey. I choked it down as fast as possible so I could meet up with the Boulevard group for the ride south, once again, in the rain. I did not want to delay them. We had a wet, foggy ride about half the way to Queenstown. I took a cheap room a couple of blocks from the city centre and a nice veal cutlet dinner near the lake (Wakatipu).

Thursday, January 27
I got lost riding out of Queenstown, taking total disregard of the maps in my possession. I was unknowingly headed for Glenorchy? I stopped at a wide spot in the road for a photo op and began a brief conversation with a family from up state New York? One man in the group asked me where I was going and I told him Milford Sound. He kinda grinned and said this is not the way. He kindly offered me a look at his map after he concluded I was lost. I didn't really care if I was lost and got my bearings and proceeded on toward Glenorchy (since I was so close). One lady with the New Yorkers asked me if I knew that the "Lord of the Flies" was filmed there? I said no, but I think I read the book in high school. She was quickly corrected that it was "Lord of the Rings". I patted her on the back and told her I had Oldtimers too...... and it's not that big of a deal.
Glenorchy is not a big place and I did the quick tour to within 12km of Paradise and set forth for Milford Sound (the long and more realistic way)
I retraced my steps to Queenstown, gassed up and headed for route 6 south. I had just got out of town and was stopped for construction when a fellow on a R1150GS pulled up behind me. He looked to be a professional touring type on his older BMW. I asked where he was going and I was not surprised he was going to the Sound. He passed me and several other cars and I thought he might just be in a hurry (relative to myself). In a few kilometers he was parked on the side of the road taking my picture as I rode by. He quickly caught me and we rode together, at a slightly higher speed, toward Five Rivers where a convenient cafe was waiting. I was in front so I pulled into the cafe with the BMW behind. I have probably put 40000 miles on 3 different STs and never had a tip over. Guess what, today was my day. I aimed for some parking space beside about 3 Harleys and a brand new Kawasaki Connie. Whilst attempting to turn right in what appeared to be smooth gravel, the front wheel kicked out and Shaftys' Orient Express began listing to starboard worse than the Titanic on her maiden voyage.
It didn't take long even though it seemed like slow motion. I strained the sheet out of my right leg trying to hold her up. She rested quite gently in the 3 or so inches of soft gravel and I just stepped off to the side. A fellow came over and with the help of the BMW guy she was resurrected in quick fashion. Lucky for us, we had just installed the rear tip-over bars. (another endorsement for the Bydawg bars) No damage to the bike. I went inside and had lunch with Stephan (from Germany).
We rode on to Milford Sound, quite the scenic ride I say, and set up our tents at the local lodge.

Friday, January, 28 I had been told the boat ride around the Sound was a must, so I talked Stephan into booking a tour at 9am. It was clear when we started but began to rain about half way through the ride. It was a good tour and i'm glad I took it. I met a nice English couple on the boat who gave me some travel tips. They suggested I do a tour of Doubtful Sound and I may do that. Stephan was anxious to leave and head for Invercargill so we parted ways. I wanted to stay here one more night (it rained all day) and hopefully the weather will clear tomorrow and I will head for Te Anau. It rained all night and the tent was leaking. The waterfalls nearby sound like hard wind. Somehow the inside of my sleeping bag stayed dry and I stayed warm.

Saturday, January 29 The red Orient Express took me down to Manapouri and I booked the power station tour. Very interesting for us nerdy engineering types. I got to ride a boat and then a bus over a pass for a look at Doubtful Sound. I found a room at a hostel just south of Te Anau.

Sunday, January 30 I left early for Invercargill and found some nice views of the coast. The horseshoe shaped beach at Tautuku Bay was too good to describe.
I rode on east on the south coast looking for a place to stay. I found one of those sweaters made of possum and merino wool and had to have one.
I just can't tell the folks back home I have a sweater made of 35% possum hide......... we just don't use a possum that way in the US and ours don't have the nice hair on their tails like the ones in New Zealand do. The wind was so strong in the afternoon it got scary. I ended up, none too soon, finding a room in Balclutha.

[Quasi]

Wow Joe - this is interesting and sounds as though you are having quite the grand adventure. Keep the words coming. I will be folliwing your tyre marks one day.So getting good ideas.
Cheers - Carla

[shafty]

Quote "Whilst attempting to turn right in what appeared to be smooth gravel, the front wheel kicked out and Shaftys' Orient Express began listing to starboard worse than the Titanic on her maiden voyage."

What can I say? BUGGER!
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The Pan's first tip over, but you are forgiven Joe, sob sob lol

[Gone Burger]

Loving the updates Joe - sure is turning out to be a great southern adventure down there. It seems that you easily approach and talk to people in each location, and make many friends alog the way. A wonderful way to be, and makes the journey a much more interesting one indeed.

Hope the rain leaves you alone for a wee while. Whilst we don't mind riding in the rain, it is such a relief to find dry roads and soak up the rays of sun.

[olegeezer]

View from the road of Tautuku Bay. Very windy this day but I did see a couple of surfers at Porpoise Bay. They were wearing wetsuites.......

[scumdog]

View from the road of Tautuku Bay. Very windy this day but I did see a couple of surfers at Porpoise Bay. They were wearing wetsuites.......

Sorry man, just latched onto this thread and saw you were looking for a place to stay in Balclutha...you could have stayed here if I'd seen your earlier posts...dang!

And me & the mrs went for a ride to Owaka yesterday too - musta just missed you!

[olegeezer]

Scumdog, woulda been good to meet yuns! No sweat though, I'm pretty comfy today. It was too cool and windy to sweat yesterday........ WOW!! I lowered the windscreen and hugged the tank to keep from "sailing away". Just a little "puckered" I was.

[Smifffy]

Great trip report Joe Keep em coming.

[Highlander]

Thursday, January 27
...
Glenorchy is not a big place and I did the quick tour to within 12km of Paradise and set forth for Milford Sound (the long and more realistic way)...

Did you make the connection that you had ridden from "Paradise" down through "the Devil's Staircase"?

Liking your reports. Has been said before that it is good to see Our place through soemone elses eyes.
Ride safe. Keep LEFT.

[olegeezer]

Did you make the connection that you had ridden from "Paradise" down through "the Devil's Staircase"?

Keep LEFT.

I don't think I did? I got "chicken" when I saw the gravel. Sounds like I might have missed a good section?
I turned at a rhode sighn that said, Paradise 12km. The ST ain't much of a gravel queen as I have already tested on this ride. However, my next two-wheeled acquisition will be more off-roady!!

Yes, stay LEFT and proceed with caution. Thanks.

[Highlander]

That fun bendy bit between Queenstown and Kingston is known as "The Devil's Staircase".
Sounds like you got to the end of the seal up past Glenorchy. Paradise is just up the road a touch.
You are covering some fantastic riding country and taking time to enjoy the view. Good for you.

[shafty]

Loving the updates Joe - sure is turning out to be a great southern adventure down there. It seems that you easily approach and talk to people in each location, and make many friends alog the way. A wonderful way to be, and makes the journey a much more interesting one indeed.

Hope the rain leaves you alone for a wee while. Whilst we don't mind riding in the rain, it is such a relief to find dry roads and soak up the rays of sun.

Remember though Katie, the bike IS a Chick magnet..............

[olegeezer]

Monday, January 31. I went for breakfast in downtown Balclutha and before I finished it was raining and the wind was howling. I decided to stay put for the day and try to catch up on my business in the comforts of this room I rented with wi-fi and all the comforts of a simply home. Tomorrow I must ride to parts north.

Tuesday, February 1. The weather was nice and I headed toward Alexandra with clear skies and little wind. I stopped in Roxburgh at a cafe with a motorcycle parked in front. It was a suzuki S50 with some luggage tied to the sissy bar. It didn't take long to strike up a conversation with the fellow on the Suzuki. Gordon was his name and he was from Tazmania. We ate breakfast outside and he began to tell me his story. He was here using his ex girlfriends bike to tour on for a few days. He divluged that she had entered into a new relationship with another man but was kind enough to lend him the bike for his holiday. (Who said breakin up is hard to do??) I sensed just a hint of regret in his voice but who knows? (I don't want to leave out here the significance of this breakfast I ordered. Two eggs on toast, potato cakes, sausage, sliced ham and some cooked onions and tomato. This is exactly what I don't need but it sure was good) So Gordon told me about the bikes he had (3) and his primary ride was a 1973 R75/5? BMW which he purchased in Munich while he lived in the UK. He showed me a picture of it on his phone and it looked very good for its age. On the way over I had a TSA agent tell me the same thing but it felt more like a kick in the shins than a compliment. Gordon also had a K75C, 1986 which he offered me if I ever got to Tasmania for touring his island.
Little did he know that I might very well take him up on his offer. He expressed no interest in coming to America. I thoroughly enjoyed talking to this guy and after choking down the "Big Breakfast" I followed him to Alexandra and then he headed for Queenstown. Later on I stopped in a small town called Ranfurly and pulled in for coffee and parked beside an old (82) Honda 50 that looked like it was hauling more gear than I had on the ST. I went inside for the coffee but did not see the rider and then he came in looking for me. It was fun listening to this guy tell me about his adventures riding around the south island on this very small bike. He seems content, so if he was happy with it, so be it. Bill was a big guy and (fast forward to the next day) I came up behind him and he was moving very slow. We pulled off the road and I was somewhat alarmed at how slow he moved on the highway with other traffic overtaking him all the time. No different than on a bicycle I suppose. I ended up in a nice cabin on the beach in Moeraki and it was so windy, I was glad I was not tenting this night. I took a suggested tour down a dusty gravel road and got to see a "pink eyed penguin". It was a long way off and I had to view it through binoculars.

Wednesday, February 2 (Groundhog Day!) Well in America anyway. I don't think they have groundhogs here in NZ but if they did I bet they would make some kind of usefullness of their hides! The wind really started rocking my cabin about 4 am. I looked out the window and the Orient Express was taking it well. After I checked in, several folks in tents set up for the night and I knew they were having a rough go of it. If I had owned one of the fishing boats in the harbor, I would have worried that the mooring lines would hold. It was blowing hard. By daylight, most of the people who were in tents had packed them in. Chalk up at least on good accomodation decision. By the time I had my stuffed packed on the bike the wind had died down quite a bit and I took off for Mount Cook National Park. The ride went well until I stopped for lunch at Twizel (pad thai chicken, yum). When I got back on the wind was back up and it was an uncomfortable ride for 55km to Mt Cook. I checked into a nice youth hostel (yes they let me stay despite my Olegeezer status) There is at least one more old fart couple here for me to talk to. The mountains are very nice and I even got a pic of Mt Cook without the clouds on it.

Thursday, February 3. At dawn the sky was clear around Mount Cook and as the sun came up the it made the snow on the mountain tops shiny and bright.
I packed up the Orient Express, took a few pictures and headed south for Christchurch. It was 10C when I left. I pulled into Glentanner and found breakfast. Muesli and yogurt and fruit...... I was feelin healthy today. On a spur of the moment I decided I would take a helicopter flight up toward mount cook and check it off my bucket list as I had never been in a helicopter before. I met (briefly) a really good looking Kiwi chick at this heliport but it didn't work out as I was 3 times her age. She was very quiet so we had very little conversation going. She just stood around outside a gift shop as if she were guarding it?? I'll try to attach a pic of her.
Well even if the girl did not work out, the flight went great, it was worth the price. We flew up to a mountain across from Mt Cook and landed on the snow. We got off the copter and took a few pictures and headed back. I took video with the Hero cam and it turned out pretty good considering I was shooting out the window.
I hopped on the ST and we headed for Christchurch, or at least in that direction. I stopped at St. John observatory, nice views from the hill, had a latte and freshly baked muffin and headed further east. I really didn't want to ride as far a Christchurch but I booked a room in advance at a hostel in the city centre. So I rode on and got there late, about 5pmish. What a nice location, 100 meters from the botanical gardens. I took a stroll through the gardens and it was really nice. I came upon, out of the blue or (purple), a strange looking couple and I thought they were hippies (modern). I asked if I could take their picture and they were very friendly and said "yes"! I asked if they were students and they said "no, they were "adventurers". I wasn't sure what those horns on her head were. I decided to stay here one more night and try to tour around tomorrow and ride out to Akaroa on the Banks pennisula. Pic attached of the adventurers.

Friday, February 4. It was good cool 10C and the skies were clear. The hills on the pennisula were nice, the roads good, twisty and narrow. The approach into Akaroa was high with good views of the surrounding farmland and the harbour. There was a cruise ship anchored in the harbour and a good crowd of tourists in the town. I walked around for a couple of hours and then booked a sailing tour of the harbour on a 1962 wooden hull cutter that was designed to race in the Sidney to Hobart race. This design according to the captain won a couple of the races in the late 40s. He was a pretty good source of info and entertainer for his crew of 3. I left Akaroa and returned a different route that took me up on a ridge with a narrow winding road. The view were good on this side of the peninsula also and I stopped in Governors Bay for fish and chips. I was pretty busy all day and would like to find a cricket match to watch possibly tomorrow. If I can't find cricket well then rugby will do!