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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #8881
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    He didn't say it was a bike, but I'll angle strongly that it was a 2 stroke.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  2. #8882
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    I built a new TM 125 KZ2 kart engine for Matt Hamilton from ChCh, I have raced with his dad for years.
    Ground Aprilia type porting into the cylinder.
    First run of the National Pro Series we stuck it on pole,changed everything to learn what not to do in every heat race with 2 -1sts, a 2nd and 4th.
    Won the final 25 lapper going away.
    Biggest opposition panicked the tuning of their million dollar trick factory engine ( not using a digital weather station - oh dear ) and siezed 1st lap of the final.
    So sad I nearly wept for them - yea right.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  3. #8883
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    $80 gets you a self powered counter.
    http://www.intech.co.nz/catalogue/do...talogue-nz.pdf
    RS will do one as well im sure.
    The Trumeter 7111 is no longer stocked by RS but they do have something similar.

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    703TR002N-512D RS part number 183-5952 $63.50 ... 5-12V and less than 10mA so easily self powered and at 500Hz fast enough to count all deto events as seen by the Knock Gauge or similar, as 200Hz in a 2-Stroke equals 12,000 rpm.

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    And here is something if you want to try your hand at making a complete det counter for your self.

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    RS part number 185-6090 $45.30

    You could box this along with an amp or frequency filter from Jaycar and make you own little compact det counter.

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    Electrical specs.

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    Two different ways to go, with an amp you would count the high amplitude deto peaks or you could use a band or high pass frequency filter and count whatever passes through it.

  4. #8884
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    You might need bigger handle bars & an auto alternator to drive all this extra stuff
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  5. #8885
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    You might need bigger handle bars & an auto alternator to drive all this extra stuff
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hub dyno and a Basket for all of those extras.

  6. #8886
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    Goodness knows what all that means but flowers are always nice.

  7. #8887
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    I am thinking about building a new exhaust pipe.

    If I have to make a, say, 180 degrees turn in routing the pipe, and leaving installation spacing issues aside, would it be better to make a large and smooth turn for about 3/4 of the pipe or would it be better to have the pipe make two smaller turns, allowing for longer straight sections in the pipe?

  8. #8888
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    A Slight


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ID:	269082 E.S.E factory team rider
    "Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion on how to install it" Tim Taylor of "Tool Time"
    “Saying what we think gives us a wider conversational range than saying what we know.” - Cullen Hightower

  9. #8889
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buckets4Me View Post
    A Slight
    E.S.E factory team rider

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    Gee didn't recognise him without the mohawk.

    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  10. #8890
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Gee didn't recognise him without the mohawk.
    it was meant to say. A slight team E.S.E rider

    "Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion on how to install it" Tim Taylor of "Tool Time"
    “Saying what we think gives us a wider conversational range than saying what we know.” - Cullen Hightower

  11. #8891
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    Someone elses links list:-

    http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2438

    Might be worth a look.

  12. #8892
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    The piezo sensor will easily show the missfire from hitting the limiter, so it will also show a big end knock, as well as the piston hitting the head.
    Dont know about excessive piston slap , but probably.
    Plenty of "noise" sources in a 2T.
    I'm reserving a bit of jugement re air cooled as I found my larger big end (ooh-er Vicar) was just scraping the bottom of the cases & also touching the reed stops on the up swing. Perhaps that could have been the noise that set the gauge off. Well called if so.

    I was mid stripping it off the aircooled engine to throw it on the 50 till I'd WC'd the 100, but I'll give it another try & report back.

    [edit] I found also where I had the gauge I couldn't turn the adjuster by hand so was being delicate with a screw driver, but there is heaps of adjustment left I hadn't used.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  13. #8893
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    An early 2 stroke uniflow petrol motor, kinda cool but way different to what we have today
    http://modelengineeringwebsite.com/C...wo-stroke.html
    My neighbours diary says I have boundary issues

  14. #8894
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Someone elses links list:-

    http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2438

    Might be worth a look.
    page in your links
    http://domlnator.tripod.com/id11.html
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  15. #8895
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    Kel sent me this ......

    jan thiel on part throttle deto

    "I am 100% convinced our engine could have run for 6 hours at max power without seizing.
    The problems arise when you close the throttle, or run part throttle!
    The piston is mainly cooled by the transfer flow.
    And at part throttle there is less transfer flow, causing detonation (auto ignition)
    The entering fresh charge is ignited by the remaining, hot, burned gases!
    You can see very severe damage to the piston after maybe 10 seconds at 20% throttle.
    This still is an unresolved problem! I was thinking about a way to reduce engine power without closing the throttle. But how can you do this? I did not find a solution before I retired.
    And nobody else was really interested.
    At 100% throttle the engine was undestructible!
    By making the transfer ports as wide as possible we had very good piston cooling."

    No answer here but at least we are not alone with engines that fail on part throttle

    I scraped the full coversation below from here:- http://www.pit-lane.biz/t3173p60-gp1...vermars-part-2

    Brian Callahan
    Jan or others, how did you control the tuned pipe wall temperature (or EGT directly?) when testing on dyno? This seemed the most difficult thing to mimic when testing either the GP engines at QUB or my R/C boat engines, in the lab. The inertial dyno or computer controlled brake seem to work best because we can match the test engine's acceleration with reality. On steady-state testing, EGT would simply climb 500, 600, 700, 750 °C until way past reality and the piston would seize.

    Frits Overmars
    This has always been one of Jan's greatest handicaps. He has asked for an inertial test bench over and over, but Aprilias race director Witteveen, or The Great Leader as we call him, never deemed it necessary....

    Jan Thiel
    When EGT goes up and up there should be some serious problem with the engine.
    We never had pistons seize during our steady state tests.
    Working on the dyno continuously 5 days a week!
    I am 100% convinced our engine could have run for 6 hours at max power without seizing.
    The problems arise when you close the throttle, or run part throttle!
    The piston is mainly cooled by the transfer flow.
    And at part throttle there is less transfer flow, causing detonation (auto ignition)
    The entering fresh charge is ignited by the remaining, hot, burned gases!
    You can see very severe damage to the piston after maybe 10 seconds at 20% throttle.
    This still is an unresolved problem! I was thinking about a way to reduce engine power without closing the throttle. But how can you do this? I did not find a solution before I retired.
    And nobody else was really interested.
    At 100% throttle the engine was undestructible!
    By making the transfer ports as wide as possible we had very good piston cooling.

    As Frits has written, I would have liked to have also a dynamic testing possibility, with a flywheel.
    In my opinion you should simulate a straight, starting at around 10.000 rpm, and shift through the gears
    until you reach top speed. And with the airbox as used on the bike, with a ventilator that simulates the raising
    air speed as it would be on track! Maybe it is interesting to know that without a ventilator the engine gave
    less power with the airbox fitted.

    I was told that such a testing system was too expensive.
    And unnecessary as we won anyway!

    I can also see a disadvantage of 'dynamic' testing.
    Because the duration of the test is so short you can get away with very extreme (too extreme?) settings,
    without damage.

    GrahamB
    Remember that retarding the ignition is used at high rpm to increase exhaust temps and effectively shorten the pipe. So it's likely to increase the heating of the front edge of the piston...

    Haufen
    Yes I know, but part load egt is usually lower than full load egt. And I think most of us would prefer higher part load egt over part load detonation. Of course, how far one could go and how far one would need to go would have to be tested, and how much would be needed would depend on the engine.

    Mic
    How about much larger travel on the exhaust power valve.
    With a shorter exhaust port duration power is lower. And this is already controlled with the stepmotor over the ECU.

    Jan Thiel
    This causes detonation (auto ignition)
    The problem is that the burned gases do not exit the cilinder!
    Retarding ignition also does not make sense.
    As you have an AUTO-inition problem!
    So the engine does not 'listen' to its ECU anymore!
    What you would need is the same fresh gas flow, but with less HP!
    Not easy to achieve!
    A variable tailpipe might help.

    Jan Thiel
    Haufen, We also had such a test bench at Aprlia.
    The prototype of this test bench was developed by Apicom in collaboration wit Aprilia.
    So we had it first, and now anyone can buy it.
    It was helpful but not what I wanted.
    A so-called step test.
    And without the airbox!

    Frits Overmars
    Like Jan wrote, a shorter exhaust duration will worsen the detonation. What happens is this:
    During normal operation, the blowdown time.area of the exhaust ports is sufficient to drop the cylinder pressure below the crankcase pressure before the transfer ports open, even at high rpm.
    At part-throttle that cylinder pressure will drop to the same level, but now the crankcase pressure is much lower and exhaust gases will enter the transfer ducts, contaminating and heating the fresh mixture even before it enters the cylinder.
    A theoretical solution would be a power valve that enlarges the normal exhaust timing instead of lowering it. But that is impractical as it would ruin the shape of the exhaust duct and it would cause cooling problems in the cylinder's exhaust area.
    A variable tailpipe area, like Jan says, can be a more practical approach. I designed a simple solution, shown in the drawing below, but then two-stroke development at Aprilia was terminated because of Dorna's ban on two-strokes

    Howard Gifford
    Another way to lower HP without sacrificing piston cooling would be to richen the mixture when you want to lower the power. With a signal to a fuel enrichening solenoid you could achieve a power range. It would then be instantaneous and programmable. Not enviornmentally friendly but would work for racing. The mixture ratio difference from high power to low power would need to be just rich enough before a misfire and just lean enough for sustained high power.

    The variable tailpipe idea will work but I suspect the pipe temperature would drop off and it would take several seconds to regain full power. But then again rich mixture may have the same problem.
    Two strokes are like redheads. Hard to figure out and very temperamental. But when they are happy they are a lot of fun!
    HG

    Jan Thiel a écrit:
    The entering fresh charge is ignited by the remaining, hot, burned gases!
    You can see very severe damage to the piston after maybe 10 seconds at 20% throttle.
    This still is an unresolved problem! I was thinking about a way to reduce engine power without closing the throttle. But how can you do this? I did not find a solution before I retired.
    And nobody else was really interested.

    Institute of TwoStrokes
    On aftermarket ignitions I use there is a mode I can switch on where a number of indivdual sparks are cut, depending on throttle position. It is now only configured for cutting 1 in every 3 sparks on over run(tps <10% with high rpm). Would that sort of system solve the part throttle detonation? If the number of sparks cut could be varied along with TPS for this to begin and end? If it would be helpful I'm certain the manufacturer would only need a software change to do this.

    Jan Thiel
    I certainly thought about cutting sparks.
    But remember: the problem was AUTO-ignition!

    GrahamB a écrit:
    Remember that retarding the ignition is used at high rpm to increase exhaust temps and effectively shorten the pipe. So it's likely to increase the heating of the front edge of the piston...

    Jan Thiel
    Indeed, retarding too much caused detonation!

    Institute of TwoStrokes a écrit:
    Jan Thiel a écrit: The entering fresh charge is ignited by the remaining, hot, burned gases! You can see very severe damage to the piston after maybe 10 seconds at 20% throttle.
    This still is an unresolved problem! I was thinking about a way to reduce engine power without closing the throttle. But how can you do this? On aftermarket ignitions I use there is a mode I can switch on where a number of individual sparks are cut, depending on throttle position. Would that sort of system solve the part throttle detonation?

    Frits Overmars
    As Jan pointed out, once you have auto-ignition, the engine does not listen to its ECU any more. So you would have to start skipping sparks well before the onset of detonation.
    In a foul-stroke your proposed system does work, but a two-stroke would react far from linear. For example, if you skip 1 in 4 sparks, you will loose much more than 25% of engine power because that one missing spark will cause the gasdynamics processes to collapse. The main problem would be to realise a smooth transition from intermittent to full ignition.


    Jan Thiel a écrit:
    Retarding ignition also does not make sense.
    As you have an AUTO-inition problem!
    So the engine does not 'listen' to its ECU anymore!
    What you would need is the same fresh gas flow, but with less HP!
    Not easy to achieve!
    A variable tailpipe might help.

    Haufen
    I think I expressed myself unclearly. What I meant was the following:
    Imagine your engine with the throttle opened just above the auto-ignition range. Then you have sufficient transfer flow, but too much power. To lower the power, now retard the ignition. Then you still have sufficient transfer flow, but with less power.

    I think Honda used auto-ignition to their advantage on two-strokes. As far as I remember they did it with a (very) variable exhaust power valve.

    Frits Overmars a écrit:

    Mic a écrit:
    How about much larger travel on the exhaust power valve. With a shorter exhaust port duration power is lower. And this is already controlled with the stepmotor over the ECU.

    Frits Overmars a écrit:
    Like Jan wrote, a shorter exhaust duration will worsen the detonation. What happens is this:
    During normal operation, the blowdown time.area of the exhaust ports is sufficient to drop the cylinder pressure below the crankcase pressure before the transfer ports open, even at high rpm.
    At part-throttle that cylinder pressure will drop to the same level, but now the crankcase pressure is much lower and exhaust gases will enter the transfer ducts, contaminating and heating the fresh mixture even before it enters the cylinder.
    A theoretical solution would be a power valve that enlarges the normal exhaust timing instead of lowering it. But that is impractical as it would ruin the shape of the exhaust duct and it would cause cooling problems in the cylinder's exhaust area.
    A variable tailpipe area, like Jan says, can be a more practical approach. I designed a simple solution, shown in the drawing below.

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    Haufen
    I think I have not gotten behind the variable tailpipe idea, yet. What would you like to vary with it and to achieve which effects? At little throttle openings the pressure inside the exhaust pipe is already very close to atmospheric pressure (if not even) on most engines. And if you had say 100mbar inside the pipe at the critical throttle opening, then the engine might have had more power with a bigger tailpipe.

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    Frits Overmars
    'Opening' the end of the reflector will cause a substantial weakening of the reflected pulse and thus less charging of the cylinder. Izze simple, no?

    Haufen a écrit:
    Variable transfer timing would be nice also, if feasible.

    Frits Overmars
    That would be my ideal. Lowering all the transfer roofs would shorten the transfer timing and lengthen the blowdown timing, so the cylinder pressure would drop further before the transfers would open. It would cure the hig revs/low power-detonation and it would improve the power band because a too early-returning exhaust pulse would have less opportunity to push the fresh cylinder contents back into the crankcase.
    A controllable transfer height would even make a throttle valve unnecessary.
    There's only the little problem of how to build it...

    Jan Thiel
    Haufen, Auto-ignition usually occurs between 10 to 40% throttle at high revs.
    In fast, non full throttle corners.

    Retarding the ignition was tried to diminish power.
    This makes the exhaust very hot.
    Then, when you need full power, it is not there because the exhaust temperatures are wrong.
    This takes a little time, when the engine is back to full power you are already at the end of the straight!
    The same goes for water injection in the exhaust.
    It was tried by Rotax about 25 years ago.
    There was a LOT more power at low revs, so the rider had to take it easy when opening the throttle.
    But the engine revved a little bit less, because the exhaust temperature did not recover at high revs.
    And lap times became actually slower.
    After a day of testing the system was switched off.
    Lap times immediately improved!

    A very important thing when accelerating is the power you have after changing gear.
    Spark interruption may be not so good for this!
    As I did not have the dyno I wanted this gearchange effect could not be tried on the dyno, very regrettably!
    Retarding the ignition and weakening the mixture by powerjet can also have a negative effect on this.
    The exhaust temperature should be 'Right' for the No. of revs after you change gear.
    If the temperature is too high there will be less power!
    So it is REALLY complicated!

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