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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #14776
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    2nd March 2013 - 15:04
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    The middle one is the type developed by NGK for Honda RS125/250.
    Been there done the dyno work - those special tip type plugs make more power - end of story.
    They were originally a short body type, and cost a fortune, including the special short cap as well.
    The R7376 has a normal body with that electrode configuration, Platinum fine wire earth, and Iridium fine wire centre.
    Kicks arse with the Denso equivalent and the B10EGV type simply isnt in the same league.
    R7376 still costs a fortune Wobbly, more than $100 each. Thanks for the post anyway. Good info always appreciated.
    Can I ask if you have any opinion on the cheaper Iridium NGKs, such as the CR9EHIX-9?

  2. #14777
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    27th January 2011 - 11:30
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  3. #14778
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    I have got R7376 several times for around 35USD, about 1/3 of the cost of the shorty Honda style.
    And I would never use an Iridium plug again in a real race engine.
    They seemed like a great alternative till we lost several engines in a row, including dropping an earth electrode on
    the last corner of the last lap - to take a 125 kart title 3 in a row.
    The Iridium centre ceramic will crack and fall off the instant you see even the smallest amount of deto, and the reason the R 7376 style plugs are expensive is that the rare
    earth ground strap is laser welded to the body - I have never seen or heard of one failing, and the ceramic can crack occasionally, but again I have never seen one drop out.
    Its one of those things, just accept that you pay for what you get, and buy the best when it really matters.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  4. #14779
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    2nd March 2013 - 15:04
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    Thanks for your help guys. Learning (slowly)...

  5. #14780
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    29th March 2013 - 14:57
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    Good night everybody, I have finally the opportunity to use EngMod 2t, and I would like to know if someone as models of common reedvalve cages and common carburetors?
    If not, when I measure what I have accurate tools to measure them I will do that and share the files for what I have access:
    oko 24, oko 30, dell orto VHSB 34 and some other 32mm and maybe mikuni TM28.

    In a side note, what kind of apparatus is the best thing to measure the transfers roof and floor angle?

    Best regards, and hope I'm not nagging you guys and girls.

  6. #14781
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Actually its lunch time here.


    Mmm Lunch. Right I'm off to feed.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  7. #14782
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    7th September 2009 - 09:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Actually its lunch time here.


    Mmm Lunch. Right I'm off to feed.
    Fat git...

  8. #14783
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    There was salad involved.

    . . . and fudge

    How's that last 10yrs of American food been treating you?
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  9. #14784
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    7th September 2009 - 09:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    There was salad involved.

    . . . and fudge

    How's that last 10yrs of American food been treating you?
    Actually mate not too bad. I left NZ in 1999 weighing 81kg and I currently weigh 72kg.
    It is not the food, more the portion sizes. Plus the Yanks are on 4th generation fast food eaters.

  10. #14785
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    27th October 2013 - 08:53
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    Quote Originally Posted by senso View Post
    Good night everybody, I have finally the opportunity to use EngMod 2t, and I would like to know if someone as models of common reedvalve cages and common carburetors?
    If not, when I measure what I have accurate tools to measure them I will do that and share the files for what I have access:
    oko 24, oko 30, dell orto VHSB 34 and some other 32mm and maybe mikuni TM28.

    In a side note, what kind of apparatus is the best thing to measure the transfers roof and floor angle?

    Best regards, and hope I'm not nagging you guys and girls.

    im not sure how everyone else did it but i did it this way. just with a paper clip to find the roof and floor angle then used a protractor tool to measure the paper clip. i may have a reed cage loaded into engmod from a old dirtbike but im not sure what good it would do you






    on your other angles i just used cardboard the size of the bore and used some wire inside the ports to mark the angles like so. be sure to have a line drawn through the center so you can measure all the angles based off that


  11. #14786
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    Which raises a point I've been pondering. Your paperclip in the port is measuring the angle perpendicular to the cylinder wall at the port. However most ports don't enter the cylinder perpendicular but at some other angle as per your other photo of the cardboard disc in the cylinder. What angle is EngMod telling you to use? I think it will be the vertical angle in the direction of the port flow which isn't often perpendicular to the cylinder wall.

  12. #14787
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    The radial angles are not actually needed to input the chordal port widths into EngMod ( perpendicular to the direction of the port flow ) but
    the axial angle is used to correct the flow area by the cosine of the upward tilt.
    There is a worksheet in the code that uses all the angle info to generate the correct widths, but it can just as easily be directly inputed from measurement.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  13. #14788
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    27th October 2013 - 08:53
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedpro View Post
    Which raises a point I've been pondering. Your paperclip in the port is measuring the angle perpendicular to the cylinder wall at the port. However most ports don't enter the cylinder perpendicular but at some other angle as per your other photo of the cardboard disc in the cylinder. What angle is EngMod telling you to use? I think it will be the vertical angle in the direction of the port flow which isn't often perpendicular to the cylinder wall.
    the paper clip will tell you the horizontal angle, from 90* of the cylinder wall, even though i used the cylinder wall. you can see in the pic its says 7*, that particular paper clip happens to be from a different cylinder i have laying around the garage. the cylinder in the top pic has horizontal angles more around 20* if i recall.

    the main transfer page of engmod only asks for horizontal angles, maybe this is all it needs for its calculations, i dont know. theres a seperate page where you can input the vertical angles, i put those in also.

  14. #14789
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    2nd March 2013 - 15:04
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    If anyone has the time to comment, I'd appreciate any opinions on the transfer port angles shown in the attached images.
    I'm sure they need modification, but I'm not sure what is required to improve the scavenging.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	CRM80 Transfer Axial Angles.jpg 
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ID:	300252Click image for larger version. 

Name:	CRM80 Transfer Radial Angles-7.jpg 
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ID:	300253

  15. #14790
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    Easy - double the A and B port axial angles.
    Move the B port front edge as far forward as you can to make a narrow bridge - and grind it perpendicular to the front/rear axis.
    Move the B port rear wall around as far as you can ( limited by the ring pins generally ) and get a hook in there pointing 1/2 way to bore centre.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

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