Will I get my 100 ready in time for Taupo?

[F5 Dave]

Well I've paid my monies so I'm committed (or should be:shutup:). The plan is to resurrect my old 100 project that started 13 years ago.

A breif & depressing history;
At the time it was seriously ambitious & advanced for a bucket. The first RS transplant that I'm aware of (to be corrected I'm sure). People were starting to use RS forks & SW, so why not just run the whole thing? Procured a bike from T&E (remember that, I hear it's still going:whocares:) & raced it at Taupo to see what it was like.

Answer; a bit slow & my-word-it-was-cramped. Once I braked I would slip forward & no longer be able to use the gearshift & this was after putting a block under the seat. It started making a noise in the last race & I loaded it up there was oil in the fairing. Hmm. Once on the bench I noticed the crank bolt had backed out & bored a hole in the cases. Used bikes huh?

So I sold the engine to a karter (with full disclosure, it was an easy fix).

I then proceeded to offer the engine to the frame. Ahh. Now I saw why people weren't lining up to do it. The CR125 derived RS engine was super narrow at the back, there was no way the MB was going to fit with the sprocket anywhere near the swingarm & the engine knocked into things in several places & the carb entry to the top suspension mount meant the carb would be IN the mount.

Deep breath & break out my grinder. Several sessions later I had cut serious amounts off both the frame & the crankcases. But it was close. Then I made some serious mistakes. First was taking advice from a friend who thought he was an engineer & could ally weld.

Anyway a long & sordid period passed where he tried in earnest to destroy it with an ally welder. Every session was followed by me spending ages trying to straighten things & sort it out. The design I had in my mind was quite good despite being some time ago when I was a sight more clueless. Water cooled with an NSR250 pump driven in the correct direction at the right speed (so often screwed up). + many other modernisations to design.

The execution was flawed & I ended up with my brand new barrel that I had chanced on for $80 needing a rebore before it even got a piston (he held it in the lathe using the bore -why? it slipped & mungered) & then being ruined, the lovely exhaust port was welded into so many times to repair a leak from the water jacket to the port it pulled the ally away from the liner. Bound to seize from local overheating.

I felt sick & pushed the bike under the house where it largely stayed for best part of a decade, getting pulled out every year or so before realising another cock up & being pushed under the house again. I did actually start it & rode up the driveway. I do have something to thank this bike for. When my now wife came to stay with me many moons ago she shared a bedroom with it, so she knew what she was getting into when we got together some while later.

One thing was we had used the front engine mount, which was proving a problem on MB engined transplants cracking the cases. I'd also cut off the rear upper mount so there was no turning back. Later I saw DC's implementation (+DPs). I'd always considered drilling through the frame spars as sacrilege, but it was simpler. They still had the sprocket farther away from the sw than I thought right, but it seemed to work.

Anyways I decided the only way to get keen again was to build something different. I sleeved a RGV150 engine & raced it like that, but I had made a mistake in the engine pushing me into a corner & it kept blowing it's clogs, after a duff crank build (I've suffered at the hands of people who should have known better), the only option was to find another crank.

So having sold the 125 engine I'm now enthused to finish the 100. So fast forward to 2009; A friend had some ideas & I've implemented some of them. I put the bike on the workbench & offered the engine up & cut the 125 mounts off. -A plan was hatched. I then broke my collar bone a few days latter & well, that has prevented me working much on it. Till now.

OK so now I have the engine mounts in. Today I finished the headstay & the clutch bracket so that works now. I lapped the ignition taper to the crank & swapped the taper into another flywheel with some new rivets, but called it a day, my arm isn't quite ok enough for fitting them.

OK so only a few hundred tasks to go & I'll be up & humming. ok there are a few other distractions (new kid & my 500 to finish), but I do have 4 months & aside from another operation to take the plate out I should be into it.

. . . mind you, when I can ride again I might be swayed to get out on the roadbike. Or the dirtbikes. + the 50 may need some attn as there will be some stiff opposition this year, one of them I'm building for a friend.

ok who's placing bets?

Here's a pic from ~7 years ago.

[Taz]

Back when I was racing buckets in the 90's there was a blue one being punted around. Think it got stolen.....

[Taz]

Back when I was racing buckets in the 90's there was a blue one being punted around. Think it got stolen..... Also think it had a TF/TS motor.

[F5 Dave]

Yeah Jason had his suzi in an RS125 in Auckers, but that was an old steel-framed twin shocker so quite a different beast. Some turkeys stole it cw trailer, it turned up in pieces at a wrecker. His later 100 had RS forks/sw & that was one of the bikes that got me thinking.

[ajturbo]

good luck with the re-build matey.. we all (norf islanders) hope you will be at the track..

betting that ALL the sulf islanders are wishing you will break something again!

[Taz]

That's right. Jason was his name. We ran a TS in our sidecar. Fast but fragile.

[F5 Dave]

Yeah spoke to him when he was back in Welly a couple of months or so back, he was a fast rider when he was up for it. Had some great races against him, one battling the entire 50 GP for 2nd place, think the prick just snicked me for it, have to check the old pics.

[Trudes]

good luck with the re-build matey.. we all (norf islanders) hope you will be at the track..

:yes:Absolutely!!

[Sketchy_Racer]

You just want to show me what a 'real fast' 100cc is don't you!! That and put the 'lightness' of my bucket to shame.

Good luck Dave, that'll be a rocket ship!

[speedpro]

I know the pain Dave. It'll be good to see it sorted. You never know, there may be two of them at Taupo. :lol::lol::lol:

I'm hopefully getting gas bottles next week to restart construction. Pipe to be stuck together, turbo manifolds, engine mount brackets. I'm really looking forward to it.

[Kickaha]

Answer; a bit slow & my-word-it-was-cramped.

DP has since cut the rear of the fuel down and shortened it to give himself more space


One thing was we had used the front engine mount, which was proving a problem on MB engined transplants cracking the cases.

The DP bike was originally done like that he changed it when he bought it



betting that ALL the sulf islanders are wishing you will break something again!

Going by his track record it's just about a dead cert

[F5 Dave]

A lap record?:love:

[k14]

Interesting project, hope you get it sorted. Make sure you keep us up to date with progress!!

[Skunk]

Were's the poll? I want to vote "no hope" :laugh:

[F5 Dave]

Well last night I watched telly & tonight I'm goin' the pub. Can I bet some money against me?

But I did lie awake last night thinking about adapting the exhaust manifold. To save time I'm going to run the RS pipe, but I have a pipe design (actually two) to build at a later date. I have a plan to seal the water jacket leaks & thus start the engine & test the water pump.

[Buckets4Me]

Well last night I watched telly & tonight I'm goin' the pub. Can I bet some money against me?

But I did lie awake last night thinking about adapting the exhaust manifold. To save time I'm going to run the RS pipe, but I have a pipe design (actually two) to build at a later date. I have a plan to seal the water jacket leaks & thus start the engine & test the water pump.

You should start a thread about finishing the rs100 :niceone:
and see what help is offered
also you need to take lots of pics and put up a few posts on how it's going

then let us talk smack about it and how it wont work :bleh:

be good to see you there agin this year on a good reliable bike

[F5 Dave]

. . . The design I had in my mind was quite good despite being some time ago when I was a sight more clueless. Water cooled with an NSR250 pump driven in the correct direction at the right speed (so often screwed up). . .
so I'm just thinking about the water flow, hmm, should go in here & out there. Best I whip the cover off & have a look. Yeah ok, quick google impellers to see it is right. Chap who was helping me at the time knew all about this stuff & how it had to be driven so I took his advice.

Last check - put in gear & spin rear wheel. - you Moron Martin, it's turning backwards. [sigh] this bike is such a fuckup. Oh well onwards, pump will still work just not very well, I can change it later. Sort of knocks the wind out of your sails.

[Sketchy_Racer]

Is there any reason you can't do a thermo-syphon on it? Or do a Simon trick and run a electric water pump.

[k14]

Just run an electric one. Just need a small 12v battery and it will run for ages. Easiest way to do it surely?

[Kickaha]

Just run an electric one. Just need a small 12v battery and it will run for ages. Easiest way to do it surely?

Davies Craig electric pump with thermo switch, pm Diesel Pig thats how he did the one he built, they tried thermosyphon but couldn't get it to work properly

[F5 Dave]

Thermosyphon will work okish but you need to have the rad up higher than the engine & the RS one isn't. I bought the right pump for my MB50 in about 1989 but I ended up Thermosyphoning it (successfully) & never got around to fitting it so I sold it to someone else who never got around to it either. Wonder if he still has it?

The problem was the assumption that the pump was run off the clutch gear & not the crank I think, that sidecover hasn't been off in best part of a decade, but a bearing boss was remachined offset so it could. I ironically the easiest place would have been with the std kickstart gears. I found some last night so will have a looksee, would have to strip cases down to remachine so I think I'll run it as is & wait till I need to pull it down or as time permits.

I best have a look at an NSR parts diagram. Ahh thank you NSRworld. Yup as I expected the wp is driven by a large 23t primary so it turns anticlockwise, whereas the clutch reverses it & will make it spin real fast. Why do I listen to people?

Must learn to be more arrogant in the future. Hold on! - compared to then it IS the future. :done:

[gav]

I think a Honda Lead 125 scooter has a water pump driven by a cogged belt? We were looking at using one for a water cooled reverse cylinder TS100, we worked on for a while. Well, until it blew up and we moved onto something else <_<

[Skunk]

Must learn to be more arrogant in the future. Hold on! - compared to then it IS the future. :done:
It's working then... :laugh:

[F5 Dave]

A friend's GP100 was watercooled with a Honda Lead (Lead? sounds like a heavy metal) pump quite successfully. I've also remembered on the MB that the idler gear for the kick is driven off the back clutch gear. Either way it won't be super hard to change it, but it can wait until I get the rest sorted out.

[F5 Dave]

Well I took the day off today to work on the bike. I've made a mid mount for the pipe & carved off the ex manifold so I just have to weld on the new one that I am getting cut out at the local eng shop. I've routed the water pipes after a bit of grinding space for the rear inlet.

I'll fill the pipes & start the bike & see how it spurts out water, then I'll know if it is enough to be getting on with. That exposed pipe connects to the btm of the rad & the top one is pointing up open for the test.

I smeared a couple more rivets a little over on the flywheel with the ball peen hammer but decided that wasn't helping my shoulder heal. Pity as that is the last thing to do before I can start it for a test run. Chain is all lined up. OK need to fit the carb, but it's been there before. Extended the rad mounts.

Tank & seat will slide on in 5 min so no drama there.

But this is just the test stage, I also need to fix the water leak in the cylinder, then ideally remake the cylinder & I've got some tuning mods to do if time allows, but I'll do it in stages. Have a new rear wheel coming too.

[koba]

My what a large radiator you have!

[F5 Dave]

Std RS baby. I didn't bother running the big one on the 50, but the 100 will have to shift some more heat, probably inefficiently at this stage until I change the gearing to the pump so useful.

[TonyB]

Its a shame you can't use competition engines. Early RS125's had a piston that was essentially identical to an H100 piston, except it had a bigger diameter. I had a therory that they took an H100 piston mold and just bored it out a bit.... So in theory you could just sleeve down an early RS125 barrel, throw an H100 piston in and jobs done. Of course that would be cheating, but there you go.

[F5 Dave]

Maybe I should just be done with it & fit an RS125 engine then weld some skoady outer covering from hacked up MB engine over the outside.:whistle: While we're cheating we might as well fit a 144cc kit that are common in the US for MX engine.

Then I suppose it it all about staying in 2nd position and using just enough throttle to slip by on the last lap & hope no one notices you are making it all up on the straights:eek5:

[k14]

Maybe I should just be done with it & fit an RS125 engine then weld some skoady outer covering from hacked up MB engine over the outside.:whistle: While we're cheating we might as well fit a 144cc kit that are common in the US for MX engine.

Then I suppose it it all about staying in 2nd position and using just enough throttle to slip by on the last lap & hope no one notices you are making it all up on the straights:eek5:
So that's why joe is so fast??

[F5 Dave]

Well a busy weekend, I got the manifold plasma cut & tacked it on & after 3 attempts got it in the spot on position & didn't need to grind it at all. Then with some pretty average welding skills connected it just fine. Tried the bodywork on so all good. 27.1hp at the rear wheel @7800, was hoping for over 30 but there you go, maybe I could polish the inlet trumpet..

[bucketracer]

27.1hp at the rear wheel @7800, was hoping for over 30 but there you go, maybe I could polish the inlet trumpet..

My thats very impressive I guess thats a BMEP of about 190psi :not:

.

[Bren_chch]

So that's why joe is so fast??

and... the lighter I get the faster it goes! :laugh:

I Like your project Dave. what do you think it will tip the scales at when its finished?

I'd like to fit something in a rs125 chassis, an fxr150 of course.

Dave/Kirk what year did they change the rs chassis to the larger ermmm chest cavity?

[Kickaha]

Dave/Kirk what year did they change the rs chassis to the larger ermmm chest cavity?

95 ( I think)

[F5 Dave]

Def 95 & that is why the jump in price.

ok I'm feeling guilty already (gee I'd suck at poker), time to come clean, power claim is a total lie, the clues were that it is .1 higher than the wildest claim I've heard & more so that it is at such garden revs.

No where near the dyno yet, I can't rivet the flywheel yet, can't risk the impacts on my arm, but it should run once that's done, then I will have to fix the jacket water leak & then I'll dyno it to see that I'm in the right direction, but I'll only be in the low 20s with that pipe, there is plenty more I need to do yet.

I should weigh it I suspect 70-75kg if my 50 is 60& a bitkg (it was lighter in the RG50 frame so shut the fuck up anyone still wibbling on about RS frames).

[Bren_chch]

At that power to weight its going to be awesome! :Punk:

I just like the idea of the entire rolling RS chassis package, suspension thats made to go fast! mmmm i did try fitting a fxr in an rg50 frame, ermmm not much room there!

[k14]

At that power to weight its going to be awesome! :Punk:

I just like the idea of the entire rolling RS chassis package, suspension thats made to go fast! mmmm i did try fitting a fxr in an rg50 frame, ermmm not much room there!
If it can fit a CB125 then it can fit an fxr, surely?

[gav]

I've seen XR200's in RG50 frames, but an FXR motor has a way bigger head/cam area than one of those.

[F5 Dave]

Yeah 50 motors really are mucho smaller than anything else (unsurprisingly).

[TZ350]

My thats very impressive I guess thats a BMEP of about 190psi :not:.

As a matter of interest.....Brake Mean Effective Pressure....Engineering Term & Method of Comparing Different Engines

BMEP-PSI = Average Cylinder Pressure in PSI

Two Stroke -- BMEP = HP x 6500 / L x RPM

Four Stroke -- BMEP = HP x 13000 / L x RPM

L = Displacement in Litres (80 cc = .08 Litres) (700 cc = .7 Litres)

So 27.1*6500/0.125*7800 = 180.7

BMEP of a 27.1hp 125 at 7800rpm is 181psi. So 190psi was not a bad guess Bucketracer.



ok I'm feeling guilty already (gee I'd suck at poker), time to come clean, power claim is a total lie, the clues were that it is .1 higher than the wildest claim I've heard & more so that it is at such garden revs.


As a BMEP of 200psi is super race territory I guess Bucketracer was playing along with your joke.

BMEP can be used to evaluate power claims be it at 7500rpm or 14,000 and 4 or 2-stroke. Most air cooled 2-stroke engines will be lucky to better 135psi and water cooled 160 or so. A Honda RS is about 160 and F1 4-stroke race engines manage a bit over 200.

.

[jasonu]

yes mate. As I remembered it, I gave you a crank seal the day before. Never got it back though...

[F5 Dave]

What the heck you talking about?

Wrong bloody Dave again pencil dick (term of endearment)

[edit] looked back old posts on page 1. Ahh right Dave then.

Crank seal?
ahh you mean for the RG? Did I? oops. I'll buy you a beer next time you're over. 2 even.

[DELLORTO]

and... the lighter I get the faster it goes! :laugh:

I Like your project Dave. what do you think it will tip the scales at when its finished?

I'd like to fit something in a rs125 chassis, an fxr150 of course.

Dave/Kirk what year did they change the rs chassis to the larger ermmm chest cavity?

ive talked to keith biddle about doing that, he knows his rs125's and he said it is possible but modifications to frame and that very inconvenient cross bar they have would be nessesary. it wouldnt be cheap and maybe its abit too much work for a little 150.....

[F5 Dave]

Update!!

erm; No






No is the answer.

but I've borrowed one.

I'll make a start on it late next year in time for that GP :blank:

[jasonu]

Back when I was racing buckets in the 90's there was a blue one being punted around. Think it got stolen.....

Maybe you are thinking of mine. It was a dark blue 1987 Rs125 twin shock chrome moly tube frame with an h2o Tf100 donk. I raced it at one of the Ohakea GP's (dfn due to the shit rider being unfit although i had just finished 3rd in the 50GP behind F5Dave who still owes me a crank seal...) and raced it a bit at Mt Welli before some C%*T from Pukekohe stole my trailer with it and my 50. I got bits n pieces back and went on to build my current bike.

[ajturbo]

hey dave... i just brought a new , GT125 ($150).. talking with clive today, he suggested that i just ride that one...( notice he said RIDE???)

so have spent most of today cutting things off it....to make it go faster

[F5 Dave]

Gee AJ, you're an inspiration to us all. That we could hope to aspire to this level of preparedness.


Jason, I've been keeping every 2nd hand seal over the years so I will be paying you back with a full box of specially aged vintage seals which I'm sure you will appreciate the increased value having been an integral part of one of my engines.:niceone:

[ajturbo]

i don't blame you dave, it has taken me years to get to this stage....

that and such a busy year with work.... and other things,

today i removed the brake lights, head light and indicators... now it will go real fast... just wait until i remove the side and center stand... next weeks job

[gav]

And when do you paint it pink, AJ? :msn-wink:

[jasonu]

[.


Jason, I've been keeping every 2nd hand seal over the years so I will be paying you back with a full box of specially aged vintage seals which I'm sure you will appreciate the increased value having been an integral part of one of my engines.:niceone:[/QUOTE]

I'll make a necklace out of them

[Kickaha]

Posted by F5dave 22nd June 2004, 09:06


So I’m assuming you don’t include my (by now 5 yr) 100cc project into these 2. :whistle:


So how old is this 100cc project then Dave?:msn-wink:

[F5 Dave]

I lose track it's been so long.


Well I had the loaner bike on the dyno just to check out it is running safe. It's had the Sales pipe & port etc, should be pretty healthy.

12hp, ragged. hmm.

He did say it had blown & been rebuilt. Someone had put a bigger jet in it to be safe. Open carb to find a drilled jet. Sod!! I hate those, which way does one go?

Found another 4 or so horses. Hmm well that's FXR power maybe. Do an all gears run. 1st gear 10hp, 2nd 11hp, 3rd 10hp & so on.

Fuel is supplied from a tank I rigged up with a tap directly above the carb. Check carb, increase float height to max.

ok now it will pull 16 through the gears but as a little spike & fall off.

I really don't like the look of that. I think the bike will blow unless I find the problem.

I seem to be without an F4 bike I can ride. 2 weeks out. Shite!

[ajturbo]

hey dave.. i was given a honda 125 single 4stroke thingy... needs a couple of foot pegs and leavers and the front forks are off the RG50, so i think a bit small ..

but if you want to fix it you can use it....(then take the parts off when done??)

[F5 Dave]

Thanks but no thanks. I can't really afford to fall off till I get the plate out & bones rehealed fully so an old nail with suspect tyres isn't a goer.


. . . .however if someone has a nice competitive 2 stroke on slicks. . :love:

[jasonu]

. . . .however if someone has a nice competitive 2 stroke on slicks. . :love:[/QUOTE]

????????? It needs new tires, the rear brake needs a bit of attention and new clutch plates (which should have reached Pickets by now) need to be installed..... Plus it is in Jaffaland so you will have to come and get it and return it when you are done.
Also, IF YOU FUCK IT YOU FIX IT

[F5 Dave]

YES Please!!


um. I'll do some organising & talk to Picklet. I wonder if Keith has some room?

cheers mate.

[jasonu]

YES Please!!


um. I'll do some organising & talk to Picklet. I wonder if Keith has some room?

cheers mate.

Let me know. Do you still have my msn email address?

[F5 Dave]

Mail sent:woohoo:

[jasonu]

Mate,
The front tire should be OK. It is an old one of CP's, he will tell you just how old (stuffed???)it is. The wheel is a RS125 Tecnomagnesio, you should be able to figure the size, I don't remember ask CP. The rear tire was on it when I built the bike so 12 yrs old at least. The rear wheel is a std 17" TZR 50 so ask DP what size, I don't remember. The rear brake is a bit of a mystery. I stripped both the caliper and M cylinder, cleaned 'em out but cannot get any pressure at the caliper... I sent some new clutch plates to CP last week so best you install them. The ones in it looked ok but they are the same type/age as the ones I used in the Ohakea GP when Morely beat me. Not an excuse, he would probably have won anyway, but I found three of 'em were broken when I pulled it apart after the GP. During the GP I was having to regularly adjust the cable as 'slack' was apearing at the lever. The distraction of the necessary adjusting as well as the shitty clutch feel drastically slowed me blahblah.
When I rode it at Mt Welli this year several times along the straight it would go from 4th to 3rd under power. I never had this happen 12 yrs ago so I put it down to my shitty riding.
Also, make sure you tell CP to get my fork brace back from his mate Mark, it really helps.
So really, fix the rear brake, fit the clutch plates and fork brace and sort the tires. Not a turn key but nothing serious.
If I think of anything else I will email.

If you go to www.skype.com and dl the free software, we will be able to speak live and completely free over the net. Me and CP use it and it works great. You will need a mic as well. If you have a webcam that is even better.
J
Later,
J

PS IF YOU DO RACE IT YOU MUST BEAT THE 4 STROKES NO EXCUSES!!! (or at least punt a couple of 'em off if you can't beat 'em) Pix and or vids of the event would be nice please. It will be good to see it get used.

[Trudes]

HOLY SHIT!!! Now THAT will be cool!!!:woohoo:

[koba]

It would be very cool to see this.

I apologise in advance for beating you on a diesel :Pokey:

[Suzi Q]

Thunder/Tuono and I will be there watching and taking pics. We are travelling with friends, Will is riding a Husky Motard at Wanganui and at taupo so we will be at both.

[F5 Dave]

It would be very cool to see this.

I apologise in advance for beating you on a diesel :Pokey:

If I can get the hang of it I apologise in advance for beating you when you're on your RG150;)

[koba]

If I can get the hang of it I apologise in advance for beating you when you're on your RG150;)

Sigh, correct you are.



I'm trying my hand at this cocky attitude lark but I'm failing miserably so far.

[jasonu]

If I can get the hang of it I apologise in advance for beating you when you're on your RG150;)

Hey Dave, If you beat 'em all I will be asking $7k for it...

[Buckets4Me]

Hey Dave, If you beat 'em all I will be asking $7k for it...

how much now :dodge:

pitty there wasent more time for him to play with it and ride it before the day :argh:
but he wasent the only one with a fast 2 smoker that didn't have the time to get things right
:whistle:

[ajturbo]

well i managed to get the GT up and racing... my only problem was that, the rider sucked.. but wow i had fun....

[Bren_chch]

Hey Dave, If you beat 'em all I will be asking $7k for it...

Sounds like its worth $800! :cool:

[jasonu]

Sounds like its worth $800! :cool:
Is that an offer???


Yes Mate, some tweaking is in order...
That's what you get for letting it sit for 12 years and expect it to go with a mornings worth of prep.

[Bren_chch]

Is that an offer???


Yes Mate, some tweaking is in order...
That's what you get for letting it sit for 12 years and expect it to go with a mornings worth of prep.

i could stretch to 850 ;)

[jasonu]

i could stretch to 850 ;)

That's fine. Freight will be $4150.
Let me know

[k14]

That's fine. Freight will be $4150.
Let me know
If thats the case I'll give you $900 and will pick it up.

[F5 Dave]

As Jason won't know the Joker Bren has Peter's KV:)

[jasonu]

Is that so? I rode it a few years ago. Nice motor but over all a big and heavy machine. Got any pix? Where is Jimmys bike now?

[F5 Dave]

Jimmy's bike is in Jimmy's shed. Was talk of an RS frame but no movement as he works on more ambitious projects (Like seriously, this guy needs to win lotto so he can finish some of these bikes).

[jasonu]

I heard they were mucking around with 2 stroke motorbike engine powered jet boats...

[F5 Dave]

Probably who knows, but after his 750 triple with RM250 barrels the next step was a V6 with RS or TZ barrels.

[F5 Dave]

zoom ahead 10 months, can't even get myself to Taupo this year, but starting early for BOB.


<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Well here we go again. The story so far. A mate had welded up the water cooling rather too enthusiastically & buggered the whole barrel beyond redemption. This is the bit where I try against hope to recover this as I haven’t the time to start from scratch at the moment (although I have a donor barrel, ha-ha).

So what I have done is mill the side off the area that leaks water into the barrel. I have then flowed JB Weld (like Devcon) over the affected area. Should survive ok as it has the water flowing over it, & then glued a cover over the window. Next step is to bolt the head on using a heap of RTV as the o-ring hasn’t been machined yet & the head. . . well the head is another screw up that the same chap got stuck into maching a chamber, but it has a 4mm squish band & a super wide shallow chamber with a high compression. I can go slightly Toroidal to reduce the com, but the squish area is so small my MSV will be low.

Ahh WTF it will do for now.

Where was I? oh yeah testing the barrel for porosity. With the head bolted to the barrel I will fit short lengths of radiator hose & two bungs, one with a tyre valve so I can pressurise the test setup & drop it in a bucket of water to see where it leaks, or hopefully doesn’t.

So where does this leave me?

If it doesn’t leak then I have a set up that I can bolt together & run. A few compromises like the head & like the sub ports that may over heat. And the water pump that turns backwards (same mate 13 years ago insisted he knew which way it was supposed to turn), & the ignition rotor that I need to finish re riveting & a pipe that is probably a bit short & just a throw together.


If it all goes to poos I have a set of cases & an aircooled barrel that I can start again with, but that means a total remount of the engine in the frame.

[F5 Dave]

well not a total success. There was a big leak in the outside of the head but I have plugged that now (tried to use my finger during the test) & a small leak in the head mating surface, to be expected. Also there was leaks out of the manifold screw holes. Oh well they get screws in them so eliminate those. But I did think I saw bubbles from the problem area of the barrel. Have to reseal the other bits & try test again this weekend. Hmm! Also the head is now very well stuck into the barrel as I used a heap of sealant for the test.

[jasonu]

well not a total success. There was a big leak in the outside of the head but I have plugged that now (tried to use my finger during the test) & a small leak in the head mating surface, to be expected. Also there was leaks out of the manifold screw holes. Oh well they get screws in them so eliminate those. But I did think I saw bubbles from the problem area of the barrel. Have to reseal the other bits & try test again this weekend. Hmm! Also the head is now very well stuck into the barrel as I used a heap of sealant for the test.

Hey Dave, it sounds like you would be better to smash it with a big hammer and start again. Trying to run something with significant issues like these is a recipe for disaster as you well know.

[F5 Dave]

Well I sort of did that (start again) with the aircooled 125 engine I repowered the bike with a few years back, but that wasn't stunning so I decided to revert back to this one.

My start again fall back is in my new std barrel & cases. But the (remaining) clever thing about the old cases is the full case reed. It was a barsteward to do but gives me clearance clarence for the carb in the RS frame. However yer old mate Picklet has given me an idea about a year ago which has been festering slowly in the grey matter.

If I can get the barrel to seal I am up & running & can test the water pump with a drill. It should still pump, but at a reduced efficiency. That should be enough to prove the concept, so I kinda don't want to waste any more time if it isn't going to get sorted out.

I should start on a new head now as that would work with either set up. I don't have one but I have an idea. Best I go see Ulrich.

[jasonu]

Well I sort of did that (start again) with the aircooled 125 engine I repowered the bike with a few years back, but that wasn't stunning so I decided to revert back to this one.

My start again fall back is in my new std barrel & cases. But the (remaining) clever thing about the old cases is the full case reed. It was a barsteward to do but gives me clearance clarence for the carb in the RS frame. However yer old mate Picklet has given me an idea about a year ago which has been festering slowly in the grey matter.

If I can get the barrel to seal I am up & running & can test the water pump with a drill. It should still pump, but at a reduced efficiency. That should be enough to prove the concept, so I kinda don't want to waste any more time if it isn't going to get sorted out.

I should start on a new head now as that would work with either set up. I don't have one but I have an idea. Best I go see Ulrich.

Don't let it be your demise...

[koba]

If I can get the barrel to seal I am up & running & can test the water pump with a drill. It should still pump, but at a reduced efficiency. That should be enough to prove the concept, so I kinda don't want to waste any more time if it isn't going to get sorted out.

Are Waterpumps generally all the same way or could you graft on another on with the blades the other way around?

[F5 Dave]

it's an impeller, whether it hits or departs from the front. + would be a sod to machine. It will likely be ok enough,

[koba]

it's an impeller, whether it hits or departs from the front. + would be a sod to machine. It will likely be ok enough,

Ahh, right!

Duh!

[speedpro]

I made my impeller from a disc which was curved on the front face and had 2 slots ground from one side to the other into which I brazed fins. I slowly ground the fins down till the pump body fitted over them. Worked a treat. I made a new shaft to replace the standard TS100 oil pump drive shaft and just bolted it to one end.
Anyone who has done a watercooled bucket will tell you the pump is the biggest pain in the ass.

just go with an electric one.

[F5 Dave]

yeah electric has advantages for sure, but disadvantage of always having to have charged battery & some control electronics or rely on a switch & memory in the heat of the moment.

Push & go has it's appeals.

[F5 Dave]

Well I've had the o-ring groove done on the barrel. I have bought some Chemweld that is used for fixing porous blocks. It is supposed to find its way into the holes & block them without affecting heat transfer.

There were all sorts of instructions to do with idling for 20 min, disconnecting upper rad hoses etc etc. All related to car engines. I decided that the go was to seal the old head on the barrel & fill it with this mix & some water & throw the whole plot in a pot on the stove (while wifey was out of course). I pressurised it with a pump & left it at about 70 deg (for 20 min as per instruction). Then leave for 3-4 days they say. I'll pressure test it again, but I've been giving it a pump every so often & it seems ok. We'll see how this goes.

The new head is on the lathe (where I made a start before Christmas) & will be a simple design (thanks Sketchy for giving me the metal).

If it is ok I'll put it back together & fire it up. I bought some clear hose pipe & will make the last connection to the rad with it. That should last long enough to tell me if there is any substantial circulation or whether I need to make a new simple impeller.

Heck if it runs ok I'll have to think about the running gear as a few things have been robbed, but there's enough to dyno it etc.

[koba]

Awesome, I think, still not so sure as I'll have to race against it!

[F5 Dave]

Hey! it actually worked! Dumped it in a bucket (oh the Irony) of water & pumped it up with no bubbles.:banana:

Measured the com on the old on the piss head after I reshaped the close bit of the squish with a stone bit (4 jaw in lathe & I didn't want to change it). Bit high, but will do for now, esp as stinger is 125 sized. This will just to get going & test the water pump etc. Later I'll fit the new head (on lathe now).

Engine in frame, header on, electrics, carb. Just needs the chain & rest of the pipe & I'll fire it up & then add some water & clear hose & add some dye without mixing it to see if the pump flows well enough.

Front end & rear wheel/brake footpeg combo need some time before I could race it in anger, but it will get me on the path to seeing if it is viable. If it seizes solid on the dyno I'll start with the new barrel & do something differently that I have planned.

[TZ350]

If it seizes solid on the dyno I'll start with the new barrel & do something differently that I have planned.

Good luck with running it up, reading about your project I am starting to get keen to finish my own 50 .........

[Trudes]

So, THIS could be the year?

[Kickaha]

So, THIS could be the year?

I haven't laughed so much in ages:killingme

[F5 Dave]

Eeet Lieeves.

or at least that is what I would be saying if I could start the thing. For 2 weeks it has been sitting on my bench with petrol in a mini tank & now with the chain on all I'd have to do is turn the tap on & take a few paces dumping the clutch.

But with one thing or another (like sleeping kids & a tiny operation to counter any further kids arriving precluding me from doing that) I haven't been able to write Eeet Lieeves such as I would like. I did find a couple of impellers in clockwise & anticlockwise patterns so I may be able to modify them rather than making another.

So Eeet Doesn't lieve, but eet could. Stand by.:facepalm:

[Bren_chch]

Your 100 for Taupo is already... ready.

[F5 Dave]

I'm coming through chch next week I'll swing by & pick it up then:yes: Don't mind if I hold onto it for the next 10 or so months do you? Wonder if they'll let it on as cabin luggage? They've been getting a it pissy about that sort of thing on Saver fares:blink:

[Kickaha]

Your 100 for Taupo is already... ready.

I would help pay for you to get there and ride it yourself rather than have one of those North island pussies ride it :whistle:

[Bren_chch]

I would help pay for you to get there and ride it yourself rather than have one of those North island pussies ride it :whistle:

oh that changes things... sorry dave! :love:

[richban]

I would help pay for you to get there and ride it yourself rather than have one of those North island pussies ride it :whistle:

I would chip in some cash for a chance to race the Brendon RS combo.

Is there a Taupo this year though? I am saving all my coin for BOB. Shit hot event.

[koba]

I would chip in some cash for a chance to race the Brendon RS combo.

Is there a Taupo this year though? I am saving all my coin for BOB. Shit hot event.


Should read:


I would chip in some cash for a chance to beat the Brendon RS combo.

Is there a Taupo this year though? I am saving all my coin for BOB. Shit hot event.


As for Taupo there HAS to be a GP, maybe if its not going to happen our Cantabrian Friends could work on getting GP Status for the BOB?

Just an Idea...

[Buckets4Me]

As for Taupo there HAS to be a GP, maybe if its not going to happen our Cantabrian Friends could work on getting GP Status for the BOB?

Just an Idea...


heard talk of it being held at Hampton downs this year :woohoo:

[Kickaha]

heard talk of it being held at Hampton downs this year :woohoo:

Dunno why you'd even bother running Buckets on that track, you may as well run it at Puke

[Henk]

Dunno why you'd even bother running Buckets on that track, you may as well run it at Puke

what he said. Buckets (at least mine) need lots more power to be fun at HD

[koba]

Dunno why you'd even bother running Buckets on that track, you may as well run it at Puke

It must be quite high speed if you are saying that coz I think of Ruapuna B track as super long and open!

[Kendog]

As for Taupo there HAS to be a GP, maybe if its not going to happen our Cantabrian Friends could work on getting GP Status for the BOB?

Just an Idea...


heard talk of it being held at Hampton downs this year :woohoo:
Wellington, Easter?
1 day to travel, 2 days solid racing on an outstanding track, 1 day to travel.

[Henk]

Wellington, Easter?
1 day to travel, 2 days solid racing on an outstanding track, 1 day to travel.

Count me in. And a proper long race length.

[Kendog]

Count me in. And a proper long race length.
Exactly, no need to share with other bikes (or Karts) so hour long races can be had if wanted.

[Buckets4Me]

It must be quite high speed if you are saying that coz I think of Ruapuna B track as super long and open!


Dunno why you'd even bother running Buckets on that track, you may as well run it at Puke


what he said. Buckets (at least mine) need lots more power to be fun at HD


no wonder BIG BIKES dont take us seriosily
well my 29+ h/p is well on it's way to being ready

[Kickaha]

no wonder BIG BIKES dont take us seriosily
well my 29+ h/p is well on it's way to being ready

29 HP would be the reason you want it at HD, because HD will favour HP over riding ability and handling

[koba]

Wellington, Easter?
1 day to travel, 2 days solid racing on an outstanding track, 1 day to travel.

I like the idea of a GP being run on a short full size track like Taupo short tack or Ruapuna B.

[Buckets4Me]

I like the idea of a GP being run on a short full size track like Taupo short tack or Ruapuna B.


now that sounds more like an idear

it's the short gokart tracks that make people laugh about buckets

you would never get a ss150class running on gokart tracks :facepalm:



and yes I like the idear of having a biig BIG track where I can just piss off and have a rest between corners

[Buckets4Me]

29 HP would be the reason you want it at HD, because HD will favour HP over riding ability and handling



YEP :woohoo:

[speedpro]

29 hp would be the reason you want it at hd, because hd will favour hp over riding ability and handling

yep .

[jasonu]

29 HP would be the reason you want it at HD, because HD will favour HP over riding ability and handling

I wouldn't know...

[Buckets4Me]

29 HP would be the reason you want it at HD, because HD will favour HP over riding ability and handling


so my ability is better than yours :shutup:

the ability to build a better bucket :shit:

[Henk]

so my ability is better than yours :shutup:

the ability to build a better bucket :shit:

A better bucket for one race a year. HP doesn't seem to be king at Kart tracks, which is after all where we do 90% + of our riding.

[Kendog]

When buckets started on the air fields, were they racing long tracks?

[Buckets4Me]

A better bucket for one race a year. HP doesn't seem to be king at Kart tracks, which is after all where we do 90% + of our riding.


do ask to try out Ned Kellys bike next time you may just be surprised :yes:

[Pumba]

do ask to try out Ned Kellys bike next time you may just be surprised :yes:

I have been offered that before, but the thought of folding into a RS sickens me (It may as well be a mini bike as far as I am concerned)

Still I must have ago on one of those delta frames one day soon:innocent:

[Bert]

When buckets started on the air fields, were they racing long tracks?

longer than kart tracks.

[Buckets4Me]

I have been offered that before, but the thought of folding into a RS sickens me (It may as well be a mini bike as far as I am concerned)

Still I must have ago on one of those delta frames one day soon:innocent:

wait till rick gets his a into g and coppies one of the gp engine and get 50% more boom for his buck:woohoo:(then there will be no way that the derbies will keep up unless they do something different)

and yea I'm sure that chambers will lend you his bike if it turns up at the track again
wonder when he is going to get his gt125 going ?

[F5 Dave]

Oh yeah, I forgot to post:



EET LIEEVES!:shit:

The wife was out with the kids so I had a few min before setting off to racing to roll it down the drive & it started up. I poured some water in & it started leaking from the pump gasket, [hmm, thinks now maybe I didn't do that up fully when I worked out it went backwards]. Either way it did pump some water, just the wrong way around so I might seal the pump, reverse the hoses & try again.


Sadly for the 100; my 500 parts are here & that takes priority.:facepalm:

[F5 Dave]

Well now the Dirtbike is largely sorted out I have had a mo to look at the 100.
Impeller rubs heavily agaisnt the housing. Seems the welding has once more distorted something, thanks Melmac. Ground that out.

Still leaks after a new gasket. Some hoses have damage so cut down or replace. Last leak, on water pump outlet hose join. . . hmm, hold on! - its coming from the pipe. which was welded on. badly. Out with the JB epoxy to seal the join. This should cure it. Pipes swapped around so the water should pump in the correct direction.

The brakes need some attn, the bigger calliper really needs a bigger MC, so I try the 'Brenbo' one I have lying around, but it clouts the fairing stay due to small clipons. I'll try rebleeding the old MC & see if I can get it adequate. Need to make a footpeg. Then it's ready to try at Easter. Jet it & it should be good. Well, good but on skinny wheels with old old tyres. Oh that's right the clutch bracket needs some major redesign as it's on a bastard angle.

[koba]

Well now the Dirtbike is largely sorted out I have had a mo to look at the 100.
Impeller rubs heavily agaisnt the housing. Seems the welding has once more distorted something, thanks Melmac. Ground that out.

Still leaks after a new gasket. Some hoses have damage so cut down or replace. Last leak, on water pump outlet hose join. . . hmm, hold on! - its coming from the pipe. which was welded on. badly. Out with the JB epoxy to seal the join. This should cure it. Pipes swapped around so the water should pump in the correct direction.

The brakes need some attn, the bigger calliper really needs a bigger MC, so I try the 'Brenbo' one I have lying around, but it clouts the fairing stay due to small clipons. I'll try rebleeding the old MC & see if I can get it adequate. Need to make a footpeg. Then it's ready to try at Easter. Jet it & it should be good. Well, good but on skinny wheels with old old tyres. Oh that's right the clutch bracket needs some major redesign as it's on a bastard angle.


Easter! but thats waaay before Taupo!

[F5 Dave]

ooh Friday afternoon & its upgrade time as another bucket slides it's way into the F5Dave stable to shed a few parts, however it won't be the death of a bucket. There will be some swapsies & two bikes will emerge, just it makes the 100 more viable quicker & I'm time poor at the moment. Not that I'm cash rich, I've been haemorrhaging money on Dirtbikes & the 500.

100 holds water. Need to sort some more engine spacers that I had omitted in the haste to spark it up & prove water pumping concept (actually I need to run it now the pipes are reversed & see that it circulates with some speed, looked like it would). If the weather stays like this I might get to the dyno in the weekend (along with the 500).


Hmm I've just thought of some more bits I can sell to recoup a tickle.:sunny:

[Buckets4Me]

Easter! but thats waaay before Taupo!


is Taupo on again this year ???:sunny: :scooter:

[koba]

ooh Friday afternoon & its upgrade time as another bucket slides it's way into the F5Dave stable to shed a few parts, however it won't be the death of a bucket. There will be some swapsies & two bikes will emerge, just it makes the 100 more viable quicker & I'm time poor at the moment. Not that I'm cash rich, I've been haemorrhaging money on Dirtbikes & the 500.

100 holds water. Need to sort some more engine spacers that I had omitted in the haste to spark it up & prove water pumping concept (actually I need to run it now the pipes are reversed & see that it circulates with some speed, looked like it would). If the weather stays like this I might get to the dyno in the weekend (along with the 500).


Hmm I've just thought of some more bits I can sell to recoup a tickle.:sunny:


You should have less projects you would get more done.... :pokey:

[F5 Dave]

Yeah thanks for that snippet of wisdom. Seemed far funnier/smarter when I am administering it.

Well instead of going racing in the rain I took the 500 & the 100 to the dyno. Another depressing day.

Well it starts & seems to circulate water. Wrong way again?! Well it sounds crisp & awesome. Hard to start as compression is too high with the gash head. well it starts easily enough, but needs a decent bump start.

Threw it on the dyno to see if it would spit its guts. Ran up real well through the gears on the first try. Getting cocky. Lets load it up. Bwoooooh. ok that's not too flash, lets pop it up a main. A bit better, ready for another size up. Bear in mind that this is the first time it's run in any sort of anger, just a carb bolted on with whatever an RGV VJ21 came with & the ignition where it stands.

Won't hold full throttle (hey I'm not into double hp figures yet, jetting is miles off). Hmm, water missing from clear hose pipe. Stop engine.


Refill. Takes a litre. still going down. Maybe it's not bleed, the pump needs a bleeder on it. Water still going down.

Ok game over, where is it going. Take off pipe (was leaking water jacket to ex port, thought I'd fixed that). No water in pipe.


hmm. Check gear box with torch. Hmm, that's pretty full of water right there. Seal must be totally open. Take it home & drain & flush with kero.

No way this is going to be finished by easter esp as I'm off on business for 2 days this week.

When is Taupo next on? I'd already spent a number of hours de-bodgeifying the new donor bike.

[F5 Dave]

Well the leak was easy enough to work out. The special spring loaded seal was there. But the main seal wasn't thanks Melmac where the hell did you put that? Obviously it got melted in the welding process & he neglected to tell me he'd hooked it out 15 year ago. OK so I bought a new seal & bearing that had seized, but stopped short of the spring seal which has a split in it. At this point I almost ordered an electric one, but I've run out of play money, so its on the cheap from now.

ok so I figured I should try the pump with the battery drill. works well one way, but doesn't work at all the other way.

You guessed it, the way that Martin convinced me it needed to spin. & here's me with no money to get around this issue. hmm. maybe I could thermosyphon it. Seems unlikely as the rad is largely below the engine rather than above it.

ok what it I take off the old gear & put on the original kick start gear? Well a session on the lathe doesn't remove enough of the weld. But the angle grinder makes it square & smaller. I cut down the shaft a bit & press on the kick start gear & place the idler gear on the gearbox shaft it lives on (amazing that I've kept these gears). Now I have a water pump that tuns the correct way. hozzah! Maybe Martins' last sabotage attempt is cured.

Found a 16mm plate that will make my new footrest hangers. Dropped them off to a mate with a bandsaw to rough them out then I'll spend some lovin time on the mill.

I've rerouted the clutch cable holder to make a straight pull & modified the cable.
Now all I need is to swap the swingarm over & fit the new hangers & brake controls etc + the front end.


Then maybe a trip to the dyno to see if I can break further into the double figures, -heck it may even be able to run for the 19th June Kaitoke meet.

Then I need to finish the new head as the present one is stupid (thanks Marty).

Then fire some decent jets & timing to it. Well then make one of the pipes I designed 13 years ago, or even just start the new barrel, as I'm not happy with some of the choices I made all that time ago.

[Henk]

Shit Dave, next to nothing left to do. Can I take it for a spin on the 19th?

[F5 Dave]

oh yeah, it'll be ready. . . :blink:

[F5 Dave]

Well a bit closer, the footrest hangers are roughed out & drilled. Just need to counterbore the footrest holes & drill & tap the grub screws to retain the peg pivots in place, then mill them pretty & lighter, but that might take a back seat to getting operational. In the weekend I plan to finish the hangers, swap the rear end s/w wheel & disc brake setup over. Then having finished the side cover gasket (special due to water pump being welded on) I started last night, just needs bolt holes punched, - pitch it together & fill with water & oil.

I may quickly pop the head off & Toroid the silly shape as the comm is silly high & shallow. Then its ready to trial again. Will finish the real head later. Maybe.

If it goes ok then just the front end to swap over if I feel like it, & nyloning for the track. Will be on older rubber but should be ok for some laps to see how it goes & stays together.

[crazy man]

Well a bit closer, the footrest hangers are roughed out & drilled. Just need to counterbore the footrest holes & drill & tap the grub screws to retain the peg pivots in place, then mill them pretty & lighter, but that might take a back seat to getting operational. In the weekend I plan to finish the hangers, swap the rear end s/w wheel & disc brake setup over. Then having finished the side cover gasket (special due to water pump being welded on) I started last night, just needs bolt holes punched, - pitch it together & fill with water & oil.

I may quickly pop the head off & Toroid the silly shape as the comm is silly high & shallow. Then its ready to trial again. Will finish the real head later. Maybe.

If it goes ok then just the front end to swap over if I feel like it, & nyloning for the track. Will be on older rubber but should be ok for some laps to see how it goes & stays together.you must be a old man old now been around for ever lol what reat home you in

[F5 Dave]

Smart Prick. So when are you going to come down for a race? Or at least showcase some bikes?

Well I put the engine cover back in & trialled adding water. wp gasket leaked so some master gasket & I'll try again (the cover isn't entirely flat due to dodgy welding).

Swapped the rear SW etc over so now the rear wheel is the wider RS one. Of course nothing is easy & for some reason the original builder had done some fanukering to make it all fit for the new engine rather than the other way around (as my 50 is, which I thought was the logical way to do it, but perhaps took longer with the grinder). The sprocket is too far inboard.

So more time making up spacers. Also the rear wheel gets jammed in there so is hard to remove. Hardly ideal, but I can 100% solve this by fitting a wider bearing.

Had to take a 420 rear sprocket down to 415. Tricky job on the lathe, better to do it on the mill, but I have use of the mill at work, not at home. Set up the rear brake on the hanger & worked out where I can mill some ally off the hangers.

You know it's actually getting close. All I don't know is if the engine will hang together water & seal wise & if it will perform okish.

[crazy man]

l will get back out there one day just finshing of a project at the moment a f3 bike then the buckets are next! will hopefully turn some of my crap into something a bit nicer. just hope my body is up to it. will get some pic's of the bikes in the next week up here always good for a look!. pull out a old tape with you on the mb 100 at taupo

[F5 Dave]

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Well I’ve made & mounted the hangers, mostly; these things always take a little longer than expected.

Bit rough but will be strong as & lightish & largely free. I’ve drilled & tapped a hole into the footpeg mounting hole so it will peg it stopping it rotate with the folding mount. Sadly I had to drill again as the first screw interfered when I fitted the gear linkage, doh.

Had a better pic with bits fitted by camera corrupted pic.


Water added & after faffing about with doggy hose clamps seems to not leak.


Must pull the head off & give it a tickle more volume & fire it up hopefully in the weekend.


Not so pleasing was the bearing situation. I decided that getting the rear wheel off was a pain as the spacer stuck into the wheel a bit hanging up on it. If the bearing was a mm or two wider it would not be an issue & just shorten the spacer. So I found at the brg shop they do a 3mm wider alternative to the 6202, a 62202. ok get me one of those in. Well they saw me coming & it was $80 when I went to pick it up. Think I need to find another brg shop as these guys are obviously starting to apply a reaming pricing scheeme to the off the street chap so they can give 80% discount to high trade users. I shuld have walked, but they got it in. . .ahh.

[F5 Dave]

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Well poo.

Ok quick run on the dyno & its al pants. Better than last time but clearly not happy. Broke through the double digits, but still in 50 territory. And water leaks.
And Gearbox leaks.
Jet up, jet down, advance, retard. Some movement but no jump in power. Weird curve, peak at 10500, big dip then another peak about the same at 12000.

This sort of says pipe. The header is way too big as it got taken out at the flange to suit the RS pipe. This was a long time ago & a mistake when I saw the flange welded on, but had to press on as other problems, like it leaking to shit worse.

The RGV carb with its solenoid air bleed has been blocked off, but I’m not 100% this is right or I should put a small bleed in there.

The comm. Is waay too high & the head shape -pants.

But with all these leaks, what a drama. Where the water pump is I think it sucks air & if the water level drops the pump is spinning in air doing nothing. The pipes go down & then up to the pump. While the better way to do it would have been run one pipe down & one up.

Time to give up & start again. Rid myself of these compromises of a botched job by an errant welder. Heck I could have avoided all these problems if I’d just paid Cycleworks to do it.

So what now?

New MB engine. I had a std barrel & bought some cases a while back. I TMed a top end in the weekend. & then fell over a std whole engine the next day. + Possibly a bike. Sheesh. Now I’m swimming in bits.

Problem is that if I put another MB engine in place the frame mounts will need to change as I had a non std crankcase (part of the reason the bleeding thing leaks oil). Ok so I could remount a std crankcase. But then it wouldn’t be full crankcase reed. That means the carb would clash with the shock.

So I’m left with remount the engine & move the shock. Then I could put a std aircooled engine in place. But that’s quite a task & I have little time on my hands for the engineering & less funds than required to just point & pay someone.

Hmm, linkage conversion for the rear? Not much room on the SW to do that. Would give me heaps of room for carb though. Could move the shock over, that requires some serious frame mods & SW brace mods, but doable with a hacksaw & then get it welded. Then have to fit new cases.

Hmm, well a ½ way house is to fit the aircooled barrel to the old cases. Have to cut the inlet port off (to clear the redblock on the cases) & block it up.

Then I’d need to fix the oil leak. I could just grind & devcon the bit that isn’t sealing (the extension welded on). Bush, but that would get me up & racing. But I haven’t removed all the compromises. I could test the crankcase sealing with the barrel moded & on & fill the cases with kero & tip upright to see if it leaks.

It’s a risk but would mean no frame mods required. The downside is that if it doesn’t work well I am no further on & still have to do the big mods & have wasted some time.

[jasonu]

Dave mate ya shoulda bought ma KERGTZR fa $55 hundy when ya had th chance. Woulda bin chepa in th long run...

[F5 Dave]

Indeed, but I don't seem to get on well with Kawakamizakis.

[koba]

A real dilemma!
There really is no easy answer is there?
I'd favor using standard mount location on the engine but your circumstances don't really make that such an easy option.

[Pumba]

So in summary this still a little way away before it gets to a track.

Move along people nothing new to see here.

[F5 Dave]

Actually I finished it last night.

. . . Well in my head. I have a plan, just need to get the motivation.

[koba]

Actually I finished it last night.

. . . Well in my head. I have a plan, just need to get the motivation.

Shit mate, if that's all it takes you jiggered anyway as I have a full carbon fibre chassis built around my 34HP MB based engine. And masses of talent.

[F5 Dave]

Well mine will be 35hp & built out of unobtanium (don't ask me how I obtained it). As for talent, well I'll try out for one of those TV shows, maybe a little song & dance routine. . .:blink:

[koba]

Well mine will be 35hp & built out of unobtanium (don't ask me how I obtained it). As for talent, well I'll try out for one of those TV shows, maybe a little song & dance routine. . .:blink:

A song and dance routine in full race gear...
Sounds like a great side-bet!

[Henk]

Is this on top of the naked dash through the supermarket?

[koba]

Is this on top of the naked dash through the supermarket?

It WOULD have to be in a public place...

[gav]

Just save yourself the drama and buy this ....
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=385816695

[koba]

Just save yourself the drama and buy this ....
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=385816695

Five Thousand Dollars, Or Near Offer.

[gav]

Five Thousand Dollars, Or Near Offer.

Bargain :innocent:

[Buckets4Me]

Just save yourself the drama and buy this ....
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=385816695


Thats not going to help him get to Taupo TRRS :facepalm:

[F5 Dave]

5k on a bucket? yer kidding?!?!! & what's more its a dirty diesel. yueek.

My '07 GasGas300 cost 5k And that's a lovely 2 stroke.


you should have known.


aircooled barrel & head carved to fit & on old cases for a trial fit.

[F5 Dave]

Well that was interesting last night. I decided to dummy up the barrel on 1/2 a set of cases to see how shrouded the boostport was. It then became clear that I can't have done this 15 years ago as the answer is 'quite a bit'. But more so the whole inlet is quite shrouded when you put the barrel down. I will basically need to hack the back of the cylinder spigot off bar some retaining lugs.

Appears I was a bit stupid 15 years ago. Only continuing the trend by assuming I wasn't:shutup:. Guess I was more focused on the issues to hand.

Inlet blocked off with some alluminium & devcon. Port being shaped & back of inlet to be glued on this week. Then I can assemble & do a leakdown test to see if the old cases are worth persevering with. (If I can then fix the localized oil leak). At least it staves off having to deal with the multiple water leaks too.

[speedpro]

This thing is a bit like Chernobyl.

It needs to be encased in concrete for a few thousand years and you need to try and get on with your life as best you can in the circumstances.

[koba]

This thing is a bit like Chernobyl.

It needs to be encased in concrete for a few thousand years and you need to try and get on with your life as best you can in the circumstances.

That reminds me of one of the best websites of all time, its worth a look if you haven't seen it.

http://www.kiddofspeed.com/

[Kendog]

That reminds me of one of the best websites of all time, its worth a look if you haven't seen it.

http://www.kiddofspeed.com/
Awesome site.

[F5 Dave]

neato. so after a few nights adding a bit more devcon in layers so I can get the boost port through the old inlet I have a sealed barrel. Time to put it on the crankcases & do a leakdown test to see if these cases can be saved.

Out on the bench.

So after swapping the studs for std ones & fitting the barrel & head & a bung for the inlet manifold I screw in my gutted sparkplug with pressure gauge & give it a few pumps.

To feel air just gushing out & hitting me in the face. Hmm, bit of soapy water & ok its the reedvalve manifold. Quite a common place to leak I've found. So its not particularly flat. Again thanks Melmac's welding. Make up some gaskets & try get it as flat as I can. Now its leaking out a through screw in the manifold. I can block it up with a finger for the test. Pump some more in - still leaking but no where as bad. turn engine & spray some more suds.


POP! I shoot myself in the neck with the inlet bung. Thanks. To the lathe & turn a piece of rod with a groove so it will block up the inlet & clamp properly. Devcon the leaking break through. Try again tomorrow.

So now only two parts touching each other are the frame & front end.

I'm feeling this is still wasting time.

But my question Mike is: Do I need a basecourse before I start pouring & will ready mix do?

[F5 Dave]

Well it is improved & I've traced some more leaks. Still the pressure gauge drops & it seems to be leaking into the gearbox. But not at a huge rate. I've devconed up another couple of areas. Its good enough to run. It will be losing some performance, but not an outstanding amount. I shall pencil in making some other cases.

So now the biggest bodge to hold me over till then. I've cleaned the cases at the back where they were leaking g.box oil when hot. I created a groove in the welded on rear section & have filled the groove with devcon. Actually I used JB weld for that. Next time these cases come apart it's to harvest them for the gearbox.

If I took a couple of days off & borrowed a pipe I may have it ready for the weekend. But that isn't going to happen. Besides the barrel needs a skim & a hone & ideally I need to do some preliminary ex port work.

[F5 Dave]

Well after going home early from Kaitoke, my day has been useful. Spent several hours porting the air cooled barrel. Also knackered my compressor. Wipe away the 'maintenance' sticker. Hmm, daily; nope, never done that weekly: hmm, nope not that either. Monthly. Oil you say?
Quick oil change later, bit low but not empty or nuttin. Nah motor's fcked.

oh well, I've got a much bigger one that I've had since I moved in that I never commissioned.

So engine dry built & measured, to be skimmed & will be ready to run. Just need to machine the head & put bike back together & bodge on a pipe to see if it is oil tight.

[F5 Dave]

Head machined & chamber reshaped a bit. OK for first cut.

Now just getting the old RS chamber to mate up with the MB barrel. The flange di is too wide so as a bodge I've decided to make the first bit of the header section tapered a bit more by cutting some avial slots & squeezing them together with a hose clamp & then welding them shut at the end. I've got a bit of tubing that takes it down to 34mm which is about right & adds a cm to the total length, but the last bike it was run on had a lower exh so it should run correct revs.

Got an old flange to weld to it & ground the pipes so at right angle (this will be an interim pipe to get things going). Then ran out of mig wire. oh well.

3 weeks till next race meet. 2 & 1/2 months till BOB.

[richban]

2 & 1/2 months till BOB.

Looks like you and me are the only one's showing much interest in the BOB from Wellington so best get that thing humming. From last years performance on the 50 I am sure double the grunt will have a few people worried.

[Buddha#81]

Looks like you and me are the only one's showing much interest in the BOB from Wellington so best get that thing humming. From last years performance on the 50 I am sure double the grunt will have a few people worried.

........it will just mean the crash in the snow will be more spectacular!:blink:

[F5 Dave]

Ahh yes. Hillarimouse.


Anyways a picture I bumped into just now of happier days whilst under it's own steam with the interim RGV125 aircooled engine at Taupo back in '07.

That's me 27 about to lap a Honda bucket & a young Av on the 150 in tow. Think the red bike is a Classic of some sort they mixed in with the bunch. A couple of them were ok quick.

At this stage I'd be happy if it went as well, at least for the time being.

[jasonu]

Got an old flange

Not a nice way to talk about the missus

[F5 Dave]

Yeah I bent it taking it off so had to put it in the vice & give it a good hammering from many different angles.

You're a grubby bstd, I still can't see the name Fletcher without subconsciously converting it to 'Feltcher' (which used to be a common vocabulary inclusion in virtually any conversation with Jason or Chris).

[F5 Dave]

Well I've fitted the pipe & put it back together. I made a venturi stinger insert to replace the RS125 one as it's (obviously) suited for a 125 being 23mm, but it's pretty cool as I can machine up any 25mm tube 25mm long & swap it in to test. This one is bored 18mm & tapered with a 9deg cut to 1/2 way along & a 40deg cut on the baffle cone side with a 8mm section at 18mm. I have a formula somewhere but this was just cut as an experiment being a couple of mm smaller than typical for a 100. Looks nice too. Must be worth a couple of horsepower just in trickness.

Having too big a stinger bleed can actually lose some reasonable power.

So off to the dyno. Seemed like a waste as the day disappeared. Maybe I should be out on the road bike, or the trials bike. Weather was sunny & wind calming down. Oh well.

So either way the PC is playing up, she's an old girl. Like there's a stuck key. Finally I get a run. It towers over the old WC barrel, but that is hardly hard. This run had the RS stinger 23mm tube (too big but wanted to see the diff when putting in my venturi one). Touched 20hp, not bad for a first run, bit above 12k & over sharply thereafter so conservative. Had a bit of a dip before peak power, but this was the first run with whatever jet & ignition timing where it landed. next run was up a couple of jet sizes as it was pretty small. I was heading for the van for tool & there was a crash, the weather set in with a storm. Hail etc. The BANG, the PC goes pop. Hmm, that's not good. ctt breaker. phew. But the PC won't start, so it's gone pop. Power surge or just age? Hard to say, but that's the day done. Retd the ign & with jet size bigger to be safe. Did put the restrictor venturi in as it should be better. Not sure if I'll be able to run it up before next test day, but at least it goes & doesn't seem to drool oil.

Hoorah.

[F5 Dave]

Well another trip & the PC still isn't working so I'm scrounging PCs from work now. Gee who thought 2 stroke tuning would involve so much computer work?

Well I have largely got the bike raceworthy. I've pulled the front end off the other bike as I want to run the RS wheel & that front end had the lock stops broken off the triple clamps. So I drilled & tapped some M10 holes & fit munty allen bolts with nuts. The headbrg was mullered so I need to replace that. Hopefully I can get one in time.

[F5 Dave]

Finally got a going PC, but haven't been able to get to the dyno for the Snow, sheesh I almost didn't get to my home yesterday. Did battle my way into the garage & replaced the head bearings & drained the forks & cut down some springs/spacers etc. Have to put it all back together so it means dyno tonight unlikely. Maybe won't get to test run before weekend. Having said that - who knows what this crazy weather will be doing this weekend?

[koba]

Finally got a going PC, but haven't been able to get to the dyno for the Snow, sheesh I almost didn't get to my home yesterday. Did battle my way into the garage & replaced the head bearings & drained the forks & cut down some springs/spacers etc. Have to put it all back together so it means dyno tonight unlikely. Maybe won't get to test run before weekend. Having said that - who knows what this crazy weather will be doing this weekend?

I imagine your hill would have been quite frightening...

[F5 Dave]

no problem at all until the last few corners & then it all changed. The driveway was the worst though.

Well forks all back together, ready to rock. No do I get to the dyno before race day? There is that dip before peak that is not going to be that fun, it would be nice to try tune it out if possible. 'Course American Dad is on telly & it will be cold. . .

[F5 Dave]

Ahh screw it I sed. So tried some things on the dyno, some successful, some not so. Overall power is up & the dip is considerably reduced so it should be easier to ride. But it showed this bike likes an ignition curve something different to the RS one. Rtd it likes to rev on, advanced it fills in the dip & peak is earlier & a tickle more. oddly the lower part of the power curve (9000) is less when advanced.

My venturi insert was worth some power. . . . But in the wrong way. more sizes to try I think.

[Buckets4Me]

But it showed this bike likes an ignition curve something different to the RS one. Rtd it likes to rev on, advanced it fills in the dip & peak is earlier & a tickle more. oddly the lower part of the power curve (9000) is less when advanced.




sounds like you need a programable ignition
go get out the cheque book

[F5 Dave]

No funds in bank for that. My 500huny 2 stroke has gobbled them (prog ign was the cheap part for that). Just had the new seat & steering damper turn up for the dirtbike & have to pay for suspension revalve on it. My cup runnith under:no: Oh well I'll just have to live with it & ride the sucker.

Next on priority list is the carb was dripping from the overflow so that needs to be fixed & the steering lockstops are too close in (I copied the previous attempts assuming they were in the right place<_<. They are now strong, but maybe another grind may get enough movement). Then it's race meet on sunday & see if it actually goes ok on the track (on its aged slicks whilst snow still lines the track (no kidding).

[F5 Dave]

Well that was the shakedown run. And nothing fell off. Except the swingarm nut:Oops: Even the tyres weren't too bad, although they weren't the best either. I've made a list of things to get onto but then locked the bike away, the 500 is the next on the list . . . after the dirtbike.

Ran ok but the dip before power isn't the easiest to cope with & slows the bike a bit.

Hey at least it runs! 15 years on. :wings:

[F5 Dave]

Well the 100 has done its 2nd race meet & now this thread is topical as TAUPO RACE IS ON AGAIN FOR NOV 11!!

So maybe the thread should be "Will the bike still be ready for Taupo?"

In 3 weeks it has a Kaitoke race meet & then the week after Battle of the buckets in Chch.

Still 'only' 20hp & with a dip before peak power. I need to make another pipe rather than the 125 pipe that was to get it going. Money & time aren't on my side. My experiments with venturi stinger weren't successful so I will try other dimensions. Reeds are still steel so that can change.

Bike runs ok but doesn't pull up into the power very well. Once it's there its nice. Well until it dips in power & then peaks up again. If the change falls into the dip it hesitates.

Still it has got me going & up a few places in the A grade. A new pipe should make it way ore rideable & I have two designs to progress, just the best way forward I have to work out. Buy some of my trademe shit so I have some coin.

I need to start on the new cases as these ones leak, but I need some money to buy a different carb to fit up, this RGV one isn't the way forward I have decided, want to get away from the over down-draft.

[hmurphy]

That 100 of yours looks sweet on track. I like the colours and it's FAST. It will be great when you have all the finishing touches on it. I still haven't had a ride on your 50, and now I want a go on your 100 too haha. Trust me Dave?

[Buckets4Me]

pics or it didn't happen :blink:

and congrats between you nad Mike G there must be 30 years of bucket building to get 2 bikes finshed (1 bike 1 engine)

but thats half the fun
TZ is still going and I heard talk of 35 h/p at the rear now (he was only after 25 when he started)

[husaberg]

.

I need to start on the new cases as these ones leak, but I need some money to buy a different carb to fit up, this RGV one isn't the way forward I have decided, want to get away from the over down-draft.

Have you got any pics of the engine I for one would like to see what it looks like esp the barrel head and Crankcase induction.

[James Deuce]

Do you need a computer? I have one if you want one.

[F5 Dave]

Pic in page 1 but I won't do it again like that. - it was a rubbish implementation & just looking it again last night, its so wrong. That being said it gives me scope for improvement.

I cut some reeds out last night. I only had enough sheet to do one side properly & the other is from an old reed which is too thin so I made a siamese wing to boost it. Just looking on the net for more cf sheet just found a scooter site Treatland.tv.

Machined a couple more venturi sections to trial.

Still need a change in pipe & also to make some new cases as these ones leak & will be lowing power/affecting carburetion.

[F5 Dave]

Do you need a computer? I have one if you want one.
Thanks man, needed to be a real old one with certain doda connector for the A-D card. I found enough parts to fix the original & another PC for future mishaps.

[James Deuce]

Ah! Good stuff.

[F5 Dave]

oh yeah, a piccy to prove that it indeed moves;

Note I'd forgotten the engine side cover:blink:

[James Deuce]

oh yeah, a piccy to prove that it indeed moves;

Note I'd forgotten the engine side cover:blink:

No side cover? What is this; Orange County Buckets?

[F5 Dave]

[drawl] weeell it sure is ohrange

[Moooools]

Does it come in an XXL?

[F5 Dave]

No, it does certainly not. Even Mr Hodson thought it was a squeeze.

[F5 Dave]

wow 7 day delivery for some CF sheet for a $5 US postal charge. That's pretty sweet. Think I'll make up some new reeds tonight & not try my double up one which was a bit suss. I've even got some race stand bobbins fitted, woohoo.

[F5 Dave]

Ha. Well appears to have lost a whole bunch of power, like 2 through the range & 3hp on top. Putting the steel reeds back in didn't help much (but it did a bit).

I think the only conclusion I can come to is to pop the top off it. Either there has been some damage, or some devcon has become dislodged (not unlikely the lazy way I did it), or it is now leaking more than ever, having been run for a meeting. Maybe I should leakdown test it & then pull it down.

If it is leaking more I might just devcon the cases together. Could be the seals though, they are pretty old.


sigh. why is it never easy?

[Henk]

sigh. why is it never easy?

Because if it was, everyone would be doing it instead of riding smelly old Diesels.

And these threads would consist of

"Did some shit to my bike, 37 HP, Mint"

And our lives would all be the poorer for it.

[hmurphy]

What Henk said.

But the big question is.... will it be ready for this weekend, Dave?

[F5 Dave]

we'll see, may pop the top off tonight & see what I see.


Still considering Mikes 'cover it in concrete' solution,.:shutup:

[husaberg]

Still considering Mikes 'cover it in concrete' solution,.:shutup:

I hear thats what they did with Jimmy Hoffa.

Is this like yours Dave?

http://forum.scooterforum.net/forum/f88/ronkens-honda-mt-project-153286/

[F5 Dave]

Yes that's like mine but done better & as I envisaged mk2 (mk1 was as I've said conceived 16 yrs ago). They have welded a big bit on the top of the cases, I was trying to get away with not doing that, but yet to rough it out again with some broken cases I have.

This last meeting was a bit of a disaster. Bike just wouldn't run clean. I was trying all sorts of things in desperation & tried a smaller power jet & threw in a new plug to be on the safe side. It now revved out. Much betterer. But the next race no changes & it went to poos again. Pulled the reeds in case they were broken, they weren't but changed them to be sure.

Think it is a stator ignition problem. The RS125s of that era were a bit famous for it. same symptoms. I have 3 days before the bike has to be loaded up in Richs van, what on earth am I going to sort out in 3 days? Fortunately I remembered Sketchy was loading up his bike & offered me his ignition. Its now on the bike & I'll try test it out before giving the bike to Rich to transport down to the BOB (while I fly down like a factory racer). Otherwise its BOB on the 50 again & that is a big ask on the 50.

[husaberg]

Yes that's like mine but done better & as I envisaged mk2 (mk1 was as I've said conceived 16 yrs ago). They have welded a big bit on the top of the cases, I was trying to get away with not doing that, but yet to rough it out again with some broken cases I have.

This last meeting was a bit of a disaster. Bike just wouldn't run clean. I was trying all sorts of things in desperation & tried a smaller power jet & threw in a new plug to be on the safe side. It now revved out. Much betterer. But the next race no changes & it went to poos again. Pulled the reeds in case they were broken, they weren't but changed them to be sure.

Think it is a stator ignition problem. The RS125s of that era were a bit famous for it. same symptoms. I have 3 days before the bike has to be loaded up in Richs van, what on earth am I going to sort out in 3 days? Fortunately I remembered Sketchy was loading up his bike & offered me his ignition. Its now on the bike & I'll try test it out before giving the bike to Rich to transport down to the BOB (while I fly down like a factory racer). Otherwise its BOB on the 50 again & that is a big ask on the 50.

What work is involved with the RS ignition Dave?

[F5 Dave]

um, RS ign, think I had to recut the taper, or rather Melmac did it & stuffed it up & so I 10 years later refitted it much further in on one of my aborted attempts to right this pigs ear.

So off tot he dyno with hopes that the borrowed ign would unleash untold power.:shutup:


<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->oh well, maybe it wasn't the ign. At the end of the day I've lost 4hp & despite changing the ring, reeds & every ign & jetting combination, I can't get it back, so its off to BOB with 16hp. hardly fearsome. If I had time I'd glue the cases together with Devcon & replace the seals. might do that for the GP if it survives. So leaps & bounds, -all in the wrong direction. I've just printed out the new pipe design & bought some server siding to make it out of & found a mate who can form the cones. None of which will be much help until the cases are sorted.



I have spare cases of course, just they won't fit in the bike.

[husaberg]

um, RS ign, think I had to recut the taper, or rather Melmac did it & stuffed it up & so I 10 years later refitted it much further in on one of my aborted attempts to right this pigs ear.

So off tot he dyno with hopes that the borrowed ign would unleash untold power.:shutup:


<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->oh well, maybe it wasn't the ign. At the end of the day I've lost 4hp & despite changing the ring, reeds & every ign & jetting combination, I can't get it back, so its off to BOB with 16hp. hardly fearsome. If I had time I'd glue the cases together with Devcon & replace the seals. might do that for the GP if it survives. So leaps & bounds, -all in the wrong direction. I've just printed out the new pipe design & bought some server siding to make it out of & found a mate who can form the cones. None of which will be much help until the cases are sorted.



I have spare cases of course, just they won't fit in the bike.

You wouldn't be foxing with the HP would you Dave?

[F5 Dave]

& no, it turns out I wasn't. Diesel estimated about that looking on from the start finish straight. Still fun thou.


break out the Devcon, I'm gluein those cases together. + a coupld of seals wouldn't go amiss, they are 16 years old.

[husaberg]

& no, it turns out I wasn't. Diesel estimated about that looking on from the start finish straight. Still fun thou.


break out the Devcon, I'm gluein those cases together. + a coupld of seals wouldn't go amiss, they are 16 years old.

Why did you leave in the balance shaft Dave it kind of confuses me that bit Also did you see the Aprillia 125 cylinder on Trademe a while back it would have looked sweet on your motor. I can't understand why your would only make 16hp because they would be 10-12 std wouldn't they.
Also when are we going to see some inside pics of the motor.

[F5 Dave]

I left the ability to run the balance shaft as I'd ridden ones that vibrated like a bitch. Doesn't seem too bad without it though, the rubber mounts will no doubt be helping there.

Carburetion becomes unpredictable, bike runs rough, power drops. Changed the ignition & maybe it helps in some areas, but not really top end. I knew it already leaked air, I think it is just much worse now.


Must order some new seals.

[husaberg]

I left the ability to run the balance shaft as I'd ridden ones that vibrated like a bitch. Doesn't seem too bad without it though, the rubber mounts will no doubt be helping there.

Carburetion becomes unpredictable, bike runs rough, power drops. Changed the ignition & maybe it helps in some areas, but not really top end. I knew it already leaked air, I think it is just much worse now.

Must order some new seals.

For some reason other People have also said that with Mb100 vibes bad with the balance shaft out. The other H100's I have herd off and used seem quite smooth without them. Maybe the balance factor is different.
Mick says the NSR500 steered better with one in it.
But he had a single crank 500 four I guess.
Lessened Gyroscopic force with the contra-rotating Balance shaft supposedly. When they later went to the non big bang (original Configuration) engine they still kept it.

Re sealing the cases Had you considered trying the stuff they use for petrol tanks?
Petseal or something like that?
Are we talking porosity or big gaps?

[F5 Dave]

We're talking shitely welded bent cases. Devcon it is, & hammer to remove any remaining good bits when I've done the next one.

[F5 Dave]

We don’t you just love pulling stuff apart & saying “gee whoever was here last was a butcher”? Not so much when the last person was yourself though.

The cases are apart, with a disturbing amount of ally in the gearbox oil. No sign of where it came from so I have to assume it was ground stuff when the cases were originally cut & welded 16 years ago. Must have been hiding somewhere (like behind bearings, groan).

More muppetry, the RH crank seal was in backwards. Although that probably isn’t a show stopper as there are springs in both sides of the seal so it should hold pressure both ways just fine.

What I was surprised about was the filler I’d put in the boost port was horribly uneven mid port. I think in my haste I thought I was going to file it smooth later & just looked at the entry & said, well that’s all done & didn’t grab a torch.

So that’s all sorted now, with a bit more case porting to make the inlet a bit better. The new seals arrived this morning, I could have it all back together in the weekend. . .. Of course there a trail ride on Sunday. . .

[F5 Dave]

Well its glued together. Sheesh there is a heap of grooving where the crank seal is on the crank, not sure if my new positioning misses it or not.

Should be assembling the rest of the engine now. but can't be bothered & trail riding tomorrow,

Will it be ready for Taupo?!?? :shit:

[koba]

Ready is a term that can be applied to a large spectrum of preparedness...

[F5 Dave]

meh, trail ride was a bit lame, but came home early & ended up working on tv aerial instead of bike. Did bore out a hole for the head stay bolt that fractured in the BOB. Making up a new double sided bolt/nut arrangement there. Maybe put it together tomorrow,. . .

[Sketchy_Racer]

Did you go on the brooklyn trail ride Dave? I was gonna go, but woke up to late. You going to the one next weekend? Was that ignition any cop?

[F5 Dave]

I did one loop & packed up the bike, mostly transport sections. Totally ghey.

I'll be at Taupo gp next weekend.

that ign was um, a bit better. Didn't rev as far though. Strangley got rid of the dip, but it could have been that it just didn't rev past that point.

-but thank you so much as the bike ran the whole BOB just fine whereas I couldn't get it to run clean on the old ign. Came in fourth, not bad with just 16hp at the time.

That plate was a pain to change the timing on though. 'course Karl suggested using a piece of card between the rotor to space it before doing it up. duh! I hate smart arses that are actually smart.

But I'm making a new plate & I have an RM80 one to go on I've had for ages. I'll drop your one off in a week, cheers.

[F5 Dave]

Well this is going from bad to worse. So here I am less than a week to go & I've got the engine together.'


but with no piston fitted. I tried it & it leaked like a Greek ferry. Retried a few things, filing errant Devcon that shouldn't be a problem. but applying more to the back of the barrel where the reedblock was removed. Waiting for goop to dry & test again.

but the nasty surprise was looking at the front of the piston & noticing a tear in the skirt. ooohh dear. There's me not doing the GP. Bugger bugger, no time to get another piston, but wait, that old engine came with a 0.25 oversize. Rummage rummage. ok here it is.

Hmm, sand off the seize marks. Well look, Sir has had a go at porting by filing the piston. Neat, there goes any useful squish area & I didn't really want more transfer timing. Look at the other piston. I wonder how long that would last before the skirt came off??? Nah, I can't do it. 2nd hand piston it is. Out with the saw & grinder to modify it.

Time on the lathe to make some spacers for the ignition plate.

So this thread is really taking some action. Will I really be ready for Taupo??:shutup: Heck I used to be organised, but this is really becoming more & more 'Bucket'

[Kendog]

I know the owner of a brand new .75 OS and 1.0 OS piston that you may be able to use. If that helps?

[F5 Dave]

thanks no time to bore it, thanks anyway,.

[F5 Dave]

oh well its still leaking. through the cases into the gearbox it seems. Seals seem ok now.

Took the day off to finish it, just needed the flywheel taper recut & a shanked nut made up. Sadly not done yet so I'll push on.

[F5 Dave]

Well it runs. I'm happy with the new head mount, thanks Carl, I couldn't have turned up that nut thingy like that.

Didn't want to start but the RM80 & 125 are different & once mounted 180deg it fired up.

So its still largely a 16hp engine with a dollop of 19 added on. That'll do me for now, but I won't be worrying Rich etc. New pipe should really start to bring things into perspective. (That perspective might be elation or depression:blink:) oh yeah the cases need to be replaced, that should help the cause, I'm really only band-aiding a broken implementation from 16yrs ago.


Hey. I'll take that as Ready for Taupo. Woot!

[Rick 52]

Well it runs. I'm happy with the new head mount, thanks Carl, I couldn't have turned up that nut thingy like that.

Didn't want to start but the RM80 & 125 are different & once mounted 180deg it fired up.

So its still largely a 16hp engine with a dollop of 19 added on. That'll do me for now, but I won't be worrying Rich etc. New pipe should really start to bring things into perspective. (That perspective might be elation or depression:blink:) oh yeah the cases need to be replaced, that should help the cause, I'm really only band-aiding a broken implementation from 16yrs ago.


Hey. I'll take that as Ready for Taupo. Woot!

Bloody hell Dave !! looking forward to seeing it Good effort ..

[F5 Dave]

Well it was ready. Just it didn't last.:(

A couple of extra neddies & I would have been able to keep up with Rick I think. In the prelim you'd just pull a little on both straights.


Well I’m a bit in a pickle what to do with the 100. obviously it needs new cases & I now have a couple, but they need some work as does the frame to fit them as the current cases have different mounts.

So it went sad at the GP. Was going ok but 2 laps in as I changed gear it started to struggle & it was clear something was rubbing, dragging or otherwise seizing together. I pulled the clutch, engine stopped & didn’t try letting it out.

When I got home I quickly popped the cover off to be met with some filings dropping out. OK as expected, we’ve had a collision. As I took the plate off the flywheel (internal RM design) had rubbed heavily with the stator plate & destroyed its magnets.

Hmm, the screws holding the stator adaptor plate a loose. Now here was a bit of a weakness of the design. I had countersunk them but missed slightly so had to move the counter sink over a tickle & adjust the plate so that the rotor didn’t rub as it was off centre a little in the original position.

Check crank by wobbling flywheel. Clunk clunk. Hmm, well in C3 bearings you do get some movement. This isn’t much. Is it too much? Hmm


So what happened first? Is the crank movement a red herring & all we are looking at is the screws weren’t done up as tight as they should have been?, or perhaps I should have just used flat bolts so they don’t tend to centralise the plate to a position I don’t want it to be?

Did the vibration just undo those bolts? Or was it the crank moving enough so the flywheel started shuddering against the stator undoing the bolts?

If I bang another flywheel on (after re-cutting the taper) - will the same thing happen?, bearing in mind that I will need a 3rd flywheel to test that theory if it does.

I might have to ponder a while. And look for another RM flywheel.

[jasonu]

Well I’m a bit in a pickle what to do with the 100.

Do yourself a favor. Take it out the back and shoot it.

[F5 Dave]

Do yourself a favor.
Look at this, few years stateside & he forgets how to spell in English.

Wanker. I'm still blaming you:mad:


{for the edification of other readers, one of the first thoughts when i parked up the bike against a trucktyre was Bloody Jason jinx'd it with his comment that my bike wouldn't take the revving during the Marco tribute}.

[husaberg]

Year 15 update Dave

Are you going to start from Scratch with new cases that don't leak.
I see there is a Crm50 engine that may be available?
I still would mind see how the inlet was blocked of in the STD cylinder and some decent pics of the engine.

[F5 Dave]

Engine isn't apart, & besides this wasn't a full exposay thread, esp as I'm not particularly proud of some of the earlier work I'd
done & the interim stuff is just rushed.

Don't have any money currently for starting a different engine, though I have picked up some spare crank cases etc & made a horse trading deal with another racer to do some heavy engineering involving big steel plates & ally welding. Maybe over Christmas.

I've been cutting up a cracked set of cases for ideas & have gone to a smaller reedblock from some misc 6 petal Yam probably 1KT TZR (not sure, turned up in my spares & also an RZ350 I bought).

Inlet is easy to block, just cut an oval of ally & shape it so it fits in the inlet port bevelled so can't fall in if you get scared. The port is then formed from plasticine & Devcon covered.

Sketchy is making me some piston bushes for the YZ100 piston.

[husaberg]

Engine isn't apart, & besides this wasn't a full exposay thread, esp as I'm not particularly proud of some of the earlier work I'd
done & the interim stuff is just rushed.

Don't have any money currently for starting a different engine, though I have picked up some spare crank cases etc & made a horse trading deal with another racer to do some heavy engineering involving big steel plates & ally welding. Maybe over Christmas.

I've been cutting up a cracked set of cases for ideas & have gone to a smaller reedblock from some misc 6 petal Yam probably 1KT TZR (not sure, turned up in my spares & also an RZ350 I bought).

Inlet is easy to block, just cut an oval of ally & shape it so it fits in the inlet port bevelled so can't fall in if you get scared. The port is then formed from plasticine & Devcon covered.

Sketchy is making me some piston bushes for the YZ100 piston.

Here is some Yamaha reed stuff.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Zpvp6nQo0H0/SZ5rDIZfUAI/AAAAAAAAAW8/eTCB7OVrb2A/s1600-h/Yamaha+reed+cage+dimensions.JPG

I really really like the MB50 that the Mad Swede done.

Plasticine that's ingenuous.
Did you not have any playdough :innocent:

The IT175 had 6 petal the same reed cadge i believe as a TZ750. I got one here and a rubber I got for a dollar of TM.

Whats the big steel plates about?

My new build is Crankcase reed and also a Honda.

Did you talk to Choppa about the CRM50

[F5 Dave]

IT175 I can't use, for me thats too competition, though the TZR will be more modern. Yam reuse lots of stuff so won';t be common. Plasticine is a bitch to get out, but it does come esp if warm. steel is for bolting ally cases to so you don't weld them together.

[F5 Dave]

I've just put the YZ100 piston in last night. The head needs optomising, but it seriously did anyway, the profile is waay too tall so the spare head will have a heap lopped off it & an 11deg squish area shape, then I can piss around getting the com where I want it.

Maybe I'll throw a water jacket on, that way I can crank the com up a bit more. I have bought a cheapo $29 galley pump same as Sketchy has just run on his. I'll find a battery & switch for the mean time & look at building a temp controller later. Problem is anything you build has to be tough enough to cope with the vibration. I hate batteries too. Really need to get a charging system, but that has to wait for more money.

New Pipe is almost finished. That should net me some more gains at the RS pipe seems just too big for the 100, no real surprise there.

[jasonu]

Pix of the $29 galley pump please

[F5 Dave]

Hmm, can't see any by themselves, there were a few last week. But here is the same pump with a tap. When I went to the local marine shop they were obsolete stock but heaps on TM.
Like this, but without the tap.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/parts-accessories/pumps-tanks/auction-429979328.htm


So first thing you are going to say is can it handle the heat? Will it pump enough?, esp as those hose outlets look tiny.

Answer: apparently, clearly it isn't designed for it, but Sketchy has been running one on a head & it kept the water temp done to ~ 50deg with a rad /12 taped up & tiny hoses. Hey, worth a go.



This is clearly a better pump but, unlike auckland, I'm short of pingas atm

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps-ELECTRIC_BOOSTER_PUMP_12V_SHORT___PART_No__9002-details.aspx

[Grumph]

I was browsing a mailer which came the other day - Mitre 10 ? - and saw a camp shower with a 12v pump for I think about $30
Immediately thought of another use for the pump.....more options than just Marine.

[husaberg]

KTM 50 I have posted these before just diven of the rotor with a simple tang they can be removed and put to the side without disturbing the water pipes mag etc.
The same pump is used on a 65 and probably others.

Ps they are not that dear and work.

[F5 Dave]

so KTM pump for less than $25? I've just ordered some $7 Bi-Metalic switches to play with. Stupidly simple, as long as the battery has charge they will start at set temp & turn off when below it. No remembering if switch is on.

[husaberg]

so KTM pump for less than $25? I've just ordered some $7 Bi-Metalic switches to play with. Stupidly simple, as long as the battery has charge they will start at set temp & turn off when below it. No remembering if switch is on.

Pump $25 or $37 switch what $7 each=$14 wiring....$ battery..... +$ for everything else.....$ Relays...$... Fuse....$ Weight of battery place to put it, strap to retain it etc........

Yes you are right an Electric pump is stupidity simple Dave........ and Cheap as well.

Maybe you and my lady should set up an accountancy firm together.......

[koba]

Ps they are not that dear and work.

What is your idea of "not that dear?"

[speedpro]

same pump as listed by Dave without the tap, only $29

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/parts-accessories/pumps-tanks/auction-429873881.htm

[husaberg]

What is your idea of "not that dear?"

more often I hear "Don't think your not putting that, in there."

Aftermarket complete with mag cover and everything else is $99 US but often Gen parts in NZ are cheaper than aftermarket in the US.
Aust parts are cheaper again these like these US ones are Chinese rip offs, probably
But the totally complete ignition on EBAY Aust is $75 well most of the time http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KDF-OEM-KTM-50SX-50-KTM50-STATOR-ROTOR-IGNITION-COIL-SX-/160689619312?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2569d90170
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KTM-50-Pro-Sr-Jr-NEW-WATER-PUMP-kit-KTM50-/250915297085
http://www.motomx.com/ktm50_engine.html

(http://www.motomx.com/ktm50_engine.html)

[Grumph]

same pump as listed by Dave without the tap, only $29

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/parts-accessories/pumps-tanks/auction-429873881.htm

The capacity quoted for that pump is interesting....The Bosch washing machine/Mercedes heater pump which was common on the 50's and 80's in GP's was around 3 1/2 gallons per minute capacity....

BUT - unless a thermostat was used it would overcool motors very easily.

I'd reckon capacity of this one should be enough.

[husaberg]

The capacity quoted for that pump is interesting....The Bosch washing machine/Mercedes heater pump which was common on the 50's and 80's in GP's was around 3 1/2 gallons per minute capacity....

BUT - unless a thermostat was used it would overcool motors very easily.

I'd reckon capacity of this one should be enough.

My guess would be that would be the open flow of the pump only.
interestingly the Bosch pump you quote was made for pumping hot water for long periods.........
As was the pump you quoted for the shower..............

[TZ350]

TBUT - unless a thermostat was used it would overcool motors very easily.

What about a temp sensor, cheap from Jacar or Pick a Part that switches the pump on/off at a pre detemined cylinder or head temperature, that way you don't over cool and the pump only sucks power when its needed.

[Grumph]

Good luck with temp regulating electrically....I worked for years for an electrical contractor specialising in heating - room and water incl solar. I've seen first hand thank you just how reliable switching is - not - and except for Canty recently the houses weren't vibrating...
On the other hand there are literally millions of radiator thermostats working reliably around the world - and you have a range of temperatures available too.

Keep it simple....

[husaberg]

Good luck with temp regulating electrically....I worked for years for an electrical contractor specialising in heating - room and water incl solar. I've seen first hand thank you just how reliable switching is - not - and except for Canty recently the houses weren't vibrating...
On the other hand there are literally millions of radiator thermostats working reliably around the world - and you have a range of temperatures available too.

Keep it simple....

With the Grumph on this one.

I had my central heating priority valve fail last year.
As the other electric thermostat had already failed in the boiler or failed afterwards. Total cost of the damage, Oh about $2800 Still have to fit the upstairs section too btw.

It has a less efficient but bomb proof setup now.

[F5 Dave]

Well I've tried my biMetalic switches in a cup of water with a temp probe & a meter. They aren't a super ideal range. There were two to try in the normally closed typre 50/35 & 70/50. crap I've just notices another range that would have been better with 60/45. that's $20 I've wasted & another $7 to buy the better one.

So either way the 50/35 runs too cool & the 70/55 too hot, but it would be the closest I have. The way they work is it closes the contact when the water temp first gets to 70 degrees & turns (the pump in this case) off at 55, so looking at it the engine would never over cool & run in the range of 55-70 degrees.

Running connected to the head rather than the radiator that is about right to turn off. The 70 is a bit to high in practise, but with a running engine you would ge to that temp in warm up lap & the pump would turn on. It would then run all the time unless it actually got the engine under 55 degrees. Then the worst that can happen is it will heat up to 70 degrees & turn on again. Probably in 1/2 a lap & be several laps before it over cooled again.

This has got to be so much better than air cooled. RZ350s etc run about 70 degrees std.

I'll try it with a pump attached & then look at getting the 60/45 one. Concern of constantly over cooling could be addressed with a temp gauge & some tape much as a mechanical system goes. I doubt you'd have the cooling capacity to get it down there on a racing engine anyways.

Wiring is simplicity itself. Battery ground to frame. Pump ground to frame. Battery positive to switch, switch to pump. The end.
Fuse?, pfft.

[F5 Dave]

. . .
On the other hand there are literally millions of radiator thermostats working reliably around the world - and you have a range of temperatures available too.

Keep it simple....
Hey fair call, but there are also millions of temp fan switches like the one TZ's first pic out there working fine. If you got worried you could fit a switch to bypass & just flick it if the temp goes up. Sketchys one just runs all the time, but it does overcool if he doesn't tape the rad.


And your range of temps for the thermos isn't that good when you want to run mid 50s. Cars are often around 90, big bikes 80s & 2 strokes often 70. Race bikes want cooler ideally. Higher temp for road 2 strokes avoids chance of over cooling in winter perhaps, but probably best area for least wear & best economy.

[Sketchy_Racer]

Bi-metalic switches are used to switch the fans on and off in most cars with electric fans. Only the modern cars have active speed control on the fans to help with economy.

I've used a little jay car kit in my tow wagon to run electric fans so that I can control both fans independently and also turn them on and off at varying temperatures, it could easily be used on the bucket to run the electric water pump as all you need is some sort of resistor that changes with the temperature then you can just program it to turn on at certain temperature and change the hysteresis. A little bit spendy at $60 though. (Bucket spendy that is)

I am keen to see how yours goes with the temp switch I think i'll do the same as it will also aid warm up time as mine takes ages at the moment.

[F5 Dave]

yeah I bought a spare for you in case you wanted one, but the lower temp one which on reflection is too low. As I don't have the jacket on you can have the hotter one to play with, I'll drop it in when I'm past for the pipe.


I wanted to avoid the electronic version as noise from ign can cause all sorts of grief & I wanted it simple.

[husaberg]

Hey fair call, but there are also millions of temp fan switches like the one TZ's first pic out there working fine. If you got worried you could fit a switch to bypass & just flick it if the temp goes up. Sketchys one just runs all the time, but it does overcool if he doesn't tape the rad.


And your range of temps for the thermos isn't that good when you want to run mid 50s. Cars are often around 90, big bikes 80s & 2 strokes often 70. Race bikes want cooler ideally. Higher temp for road 2 strokes avoids chance of over cooling in winter perhaps, but probably best area for least wear & best economy.

Great site below
As you are obviously pretty keen on going the electric pump way.
Something along these line would probably be the most efficient.


http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1522/article.html
http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1528/article.html
http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110549/article.html?popularArticle
http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Electronic-Radiator-Fan-Switch/A_2477/article.html
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1846/article.html




(http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1846/article.html)

[F5 Dave]

. . .
I wanted to avoid the electronic version as noise from ign can cause all sorts of grief & I wanted it simple.

& to make it funnier, guess which industry I work in? not enough time to fuck around making something reliable when I have so many other projects to finish. Sitting next to me in a tray on my desk is an unfinished EGT module & a quickshifter prototype & there's even a shiftlight box I was given to repair. They will never see the light of day again.

[husaberg]

& to make it funnier, guess which industry I work in? not enough time to fuck around making something reliable when I have so many other projects to finish. Sitting next to me in a tray on my desk is an unfinished EGT module & a quickshifter prototype & there's even a shiftlight box I was given to repair. They will never see the light of day again.

You are a production manager Dave ? Delegate

reminds me of what most Panel beaters cars look like. Those circuits above are simple and robust and reliable, relatively speaking.

You kind of might get why Grumph and I might have been pushing the simple mechanical systems Dave. That's the irony of the situation.

But none of this is helping getting the 100 ready for Taupo.

When is the Next Taupo Deadline.

I wouldn't mind having a go at it myself to be honest.

[F5 Dave]

Next Taupo deadline is March.

[husaberg]

Next Taupo deadline is March.

I'd never make it.
Whens the next bucket GP is what I meant.
Google break later.........
Ok i get it that is the next bucket GP at Taupo it only seems like it was er...not that long ago. Like November.

I looking at more like a October 2012 Debut.

Any one know of an unloved/unwanted RS125 chassis? That would allow me to retain both all my limbs and remain fully clothed.

[F5 Dave]

yeah I know, too close, but hopefully I'll have my interim engine going moderately ok by then, my good engine will be some time off & some $ I don't have yet. Aim mid 20s, that should have me near the sharp end of the field.

[Grumph]

Any one know of an unloved/unwanted RS125 chassis? That would allow me to retain both all my limbs and remain fully clothed.

Normal sized (and ahem,senior ), people can't fit on RS125's...from personal observation I can verify Dave is, shall we say vertically challenged....That's the pilot the RS125 was designed for.

Surely there's some fast kid on the coast you can proudly stand behind.

[husaberg]

Normal sized (and ahem,senior ), people can't fit on RS125's...from personal observation I can verify Dave is, shall we say vertically challenged....That's the pilot the RS125 was designed for.

I am only 5'7'
PS a RS125 would be like a Goldwing compared to my old MB10


Surely there's some fast kid on the coast you can proudly stand behind.

My son is about 4 years of a dispensation for track riding. So there is a chance it might be finished in time.
but To tell you the truth the youth of today are more into playing video games.

I did see this kid (Dylan Walsh) not a coaster mind you but if someone could teach him to slow a little when he leading by miles.
Watch out this kid should be put on a Road racer to see what happens. Note his lap times on a 85 in the 125 class one of the fastest riders inc mx1 and 2
http://www.mylaps.com/results/showevent.jsp?id=737868

[koba]

Hmm, Will I get my body ready in time for Taupo?

[Henk]

Hmm, Will I get my body ready in time for Taumarunui?

fixed it for you