Fixing a ding in a wheel?

[Arronduke]

Brought some GSXR250 rims and the front has a ding in it... what a piss off.

Can this be fixed... like cheap?

<a href="http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae304/Dukeman2/?action=view&current=DSC03759Small.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae304/Dukeman2/DSC03759Small.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

[Arronduke]

<a href="http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae304/Dukeman2/?action=view&current=DSC03761Small.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae304/Dukeman2/DSC03761Small.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

[Arronduke]

Oh... forgot to add this is for my FXR... which is currently being built.

<a href="http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae304/Dukeman2/?action=view&current=DSC03704Large.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae304/Dukeman2/DSC03704Large.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

[Mooch]

I've had a alloy car rim repaired that looked similar to this. Was about $200 from a place in Tauranga that I don't remember the name of. Couldn't tell after repair.

[schrodingers cat]

Short answer - yes.
It looks as if the bead seat is undamaged
Any competant TIG welder could strip the paint/powdercoating and lay multiple layers of weld bead then sand to reprofile.
DON'T try to knock it back into place.

Any number amateur metalurgists will probably now talk granular structure, heat treatment, blah blah.

Here in the real world, given the size and potential speed of the bike, find a fella with an AC TIG welder and buy him a bottle of bourbon.
A big one.
WITH a handle.

Works wonders...

[Arronduke]

Well... I was thinking heat... and hammer...

Seems this is not the best option?

I can buy a new front wheel for about $120 dollars... so cheap is the name of the game.

So fill in the ding with weld and grind it back to original?
never thought of that!!

[Warr]

Have a look here .. topic has already been discussed
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/118709-Bent-rims.-Can-they-be-straightened?p=1129664160#post1129664160

[schrodingers cat]

Because the wheels are cast the deformation will have caused micro cracking. You can't necessarily see it but it is there and from little cracks big cracks grow. Bashing back into place doubles the problem. When it is being welded the welder can see the extent on the crack (the localised heat seems to make the cracks magically appear). It is possible to chase the crack with the moten pool and refuse the metal. Or - make the call to grind more out and start again.

Although the wheel will be a magnesium alloy the filler wire isn't too important. The side of the bead isn't critical.

[Buckets4Me]

theres a engineering shop on barrys point rd that does them, bruger engineering i think is the place, i had a rear rim done on my crf a while back.

Bruger Engineering do wheel repairs the wife's work use them for car rims all he time

[F5 Dave]

Why? does she run into a lot of curbs?
[unlikely I will meet her to have revenge exacted]

[Bounce001]

Try Arrow Wheels. Phone Lance on 027 446 4643. Think they were on the North Shore from memory (which is not that reliable!!!). My partner got his fixed there and they did a great job. Not sure what it cost though. Insurance claim perhaps?

Good Luck.

[Fooman]

Although the wheel will be a magnesium alloy the filler wire isn't too important. The side of the bead isn't critical.

The front wheel off a GSXR250 will not be a magnesium alloy. Magnesium alloys are only used if lowering rotating mass is more important than loadsamoney, i.e. racing applications. A 20 year old jappa 250 road bike is not a likely place for a set of magnesium alloy wheels. Pro Tip: 99% of mag wheels are aluminium.

FM (Professional Metallurgist)

[F5 Dave]

Ahh, look what the cat dragged in. Kiatoke on the 16, best you drag your sorry arse up there & come racing.

[schrodingers cat]

Pro Tip: 99% of mag wheels are aluminium.

FM (Professional Metallurgist)

I'm suggesting a 6000 grade alloy which as a professional metalurgist you will know has a magnesium content. 6061 is the most common aluminium alloy used

You will also know that pure aluminium has very few uses and that the alloying elements give the desired properties to the item. My comment was really to make it clear theat it didn't really matter whether the filler rod was 2022 or 5055

[Buckets4Me]

Why? does she run into a lot of curbs?
[unlikely I will meet her to have revenge exacted]

that was dumb but luck has it she dosent read the bucket forums much

she is at the TRRS every year and at MtWelly most time
and yes she knows who you are :)

no she dosnt hit curbs but the BMW and Audi Volvo drivers sometimes do
why they would ever need the sump welded up is anybodys guess

[bucketracer]

[unlikely I will meet her to have revenge exacted]

She is the tall Red Head, and goes to most meetings including the TRRS..........you are in trouble........:bleh:

[Henk]

The rough coont in me says "It's for a bucket, hit it with a brass hammer and see what happens". But I may be wrong.

[gatch]

The rough coont in me says "It's for a bucket, hit it with a brass hammer and see what happens". But I may be wrong.

Shitty cast ally.. It will crack if it hasn't already.

[Arronduke]

weld and grind...

I have found a mate that can weld aliminuim stuff so he get the job... my job to grind it.... or give the lathe at work a go.

[jasonu]

[QUOTE=Arronduke;1129743147

I can buy a new front wheel for about $120 dollars... so cheap is the name of the game.
Only $120 for a new one? I doubt there would be a 'proper' engineer/machinest/welder that would touch it for that amount (unless it is a mate). I certainly wouldn't. Stop being a Jew and get the new one before the price goes up.

[gatch]

weld and grind...

I have found a mate that can weld aliminuim stuff so he get the job... my job to grind it.... or give the lathe at work a go.

Grind it.. If you don't know what you are doing with the lathe, you can do more damage than good..