2006 battery: Charge or just replace?

[pzkpfw]

OK, so have not been able to get on the bike in a few weeks. (Don't commute on it, house, family, job, contracting, supermodels, etc...)

Today it wouldn't start - not enough juice in the battery.

It's a 2006 bike (2005 model), so I wonder if instead of charging it I should just buy a new battery.

That is - I know charging it would be cheaper (if it works), but what's the design life of a bike battery anyway? Maybe it's overall easier just to install a new battery and ride off?

(Just been through this with my car - tried charging the battery a few times, then gave up and bought a battery and it's been faultless since. Did I just answer my own question?)


Also - it's a fuel injected bike - are there any special precautions when trying to start it the first time after the new battery goes in? Possibly a stupid question, but, ...

[BAY CITY MOTORCYCLES]

I'd be inclined to have the battery checked to see if it has had its day but I'd say it's done.
4 years isn't too bad :yes:

[unstuck]

I'd be inclined to have the battery checked to see if it has had its day but I'd say it's done.
4 years isn't too bad :yes:

Ha ha, four years is pretty good,get a new one.:yes:

[Gremlin]

I'm going to be different and say replace...

[pzkpfw]

Thanks everyone. Bling has been blung.


What's a "fair cost" for a battery? I can't be arsed shopping around (I'll be walking) so will buy in the first place I walk in to - if it seem$ OK.

[James Deuce]

Piece of string. Don't worry about price, just get a sealed Yuasa.

[BAY CITY MOTORCYCLES]

Piece of string. Don't worry about price, just get a sealed Yuasa.

Very good batteries, we have never had any problems with Auotbat's as well which are slightly more affordable.

[neels]

As above, 4 years is a good life for a battery, time for a new one.

Only thing to do before you stick the new one in the bike is give it a good charge, to make sure it has a good start to a long and happy life.

[kiwifruit]

Get a new one. $100?

[cbfb]

Sounds buggered and it's only going to get worse over winter.

[schrodingers cat]

It isn't too hard to do a load test.

Charge the battery overnight.

Put a multi meter across the battery terminals and see what the voltage is. Should be around 13v plus

Get a 12v 35 - 50w bulb and lash up some wiring so it is possible to connect the light to the battery

Now, with the mutli-meter attached and reading connect the bulb for 30 sec or so.

The voltage should tick down (normal) but not race down. It the voltage suddenly 'collapses' esp to anything under 9.5v then the battery is pretty much poked.

It you perform the test on a cold morning you'll get real world results

[James Deuce]

It isn't too hard to do a load test.



For God's sake, don't encourage him. Tomorrow, he'll be posting up how many prototypes of the test equipment he made, the pros and cons of each and which one he is using for the patent application.

[Owl]

The voltage should tick down (normal) but not race down. It the voltage suddenly 'collapses' esp to anything under 9.5v then the battery is pretty much poked.

Hell, at 11.5v, my bike doesn't have a prayer of starting. Waiting for a new Shorai battery to arrive:yes:

Edbear:wait:

[EB255GTX]

Do you have access to a charger? If you do, what's to lose by trying charging it? Well, that's my pragmatic way of looking at it anyways :yes: If it holds enough charge to start the bike, you won't have to walk to get the new battery....and you'll have the old one available if you want to check the size or somethign of the new ones available.

If you don't have access to a charger and it's 4 years old, yeah as everyone says, just get a new one. As for fuel injection and first start - nothing different to any other start. Also as for giving it a good charge before or after installing, just go for an hour or so ride!

[schrodingers cat]

Hell, at 11.5v, my bike doesn't have a prayer of starting. Waiting for a new Shorai battery to arrive:yes:

Edbear:wait:

If lead acid batteries drop under 9.7v it damages them.
THe voltage under load is what I was suggesting is of interest.
It is common enough for a battery to show 13v but having a dud cell, as soon as it is loaded the arse falls out of it

[bogan]

I had a reg/rect problem last year and my bike would often run out of juice for starting, fixed the reg/rect and haven't had a problem since (think it's a yuasa sealed one btw).

Not sure if FI bikes need anything doing with a new batt, but I wouldn't think so, however they aren't as tolerant of voltage drop when cranking as carbed bikes, so may be an issue if the battery is dying.

Flatmate couldn't get his started this morn, then left the key in the on position, battery was resting at 2.6V before we put the charger on it :facepalm: be interesting to see how long it lasts from here on.

[neels]

Also as for giving it a good charge before or after installing, just go for an hour or so ride!
Maybe yes and maybe no.

The bike uses the battery to smooth the volts from the alternator, if it's not charged before use you could be drawing volts from the battery at less than it's ideal operating voltage while charging it with the peaks from the alternator. My fuel injected ducati wouldn't run properly when it's battery was dead, there wasn't enough smoothing to give the computer a sensible voltage to work with.

[EB255GTX]

Maybe yes and maybe no.

The bike uses the battery to smooth the volts from the alternator, if it's not charged before use you could be drawing volts from the battery at less than it's ideal operating voltage while charging it with the peaks from the alternator. My fuel injected ducati wouldn't run properly when it's battery was dead, there wasn't enough smoothing to give the computer a sensible voltage to work with.

You had a dud battery, which is not the same as a slightly flat new one. We're talking about a new batt and whether you need to do anything special for the first charge. For a sealed batt, the answer is no, just go for a ride. :-)

[scumdog]

Ha ha, four years is pretty good,get a new one.:yes:

Hmmm...normajeanes Sporty is on its second battery since new and the bike is a '97.:yes:

My Superglide MAY be on it's original battery and it's a '01 (I bought it '05 and the battery in it then is the same one in it now.)

[Laava]

I don't see why the batt can be presumed dead after only 4 years? Was it very cold when you tried to start the bike? Do you often leave it that long between rides? Some bikes are prone to flattening their batteries if left for a period of time. The OE batts are usually pretty good quality and I would have thought closer to 10 yrs would be more like it. We have a 10 yr old corolla with original batt in it and it is not much bigger than a bike one. On a dead cold morning, if the bike is reluctant to spin over, you can carefully pour a jug of tap hot water over the batt and it makes a huge diff. However, it is likely in this case that it is wearing out.

[unstuck]

Hmmm...normajeanes Sporty is on its second battery since new and the bike is a '97.:yes:

My Superglide MAY be on it's original battery and it's a '01 (I bought it '05 and the battery in it then is the same one in it now.)

Ya scottish bastard,Its coming.Thats a good run from a battery.Got 5 years out of the last one in the VF.:yes:

[pzkpfw]

(Thanks again, everyone.)

Just to finish this off - and give my newbie learnings:

Finally ordered a new battery on Saturday. $145 at Wellington Motorcycles. Guy spoke nice to me so I didn't even bother ringing around, just ordered. (There's a Gorilla sized guy at Motorad who needs that lesson.)

Lesson 1: Unlike the car battery I bought a Month or two ago, bike batteries aren't ready to go off the shelf. The electrolyte has to be put in, and then (of course) they have to be charged. I guess the smaller size and lower stock turn over means they don't store well. So paid with Visa over phone and picked up on Monday. (While looking at bikes playing "what's next?" I was offered coffee... it's not a myth!)

Finally got the chance to put it in tonight. Yausa, basically identical to the one I pulled out.

Free to a good home if someone wants to bother with trying to charge it and stuff. (What do people do with dead batteries? I've still got that car one to get rid of too.)

Lesson 2: According to my service manual (genuine Kawasaki PDF) the negative terminal gets removed first, and put back on last. That's opposite to what I would have done if I hadn't read it first. Don't know how much difference it makes, but did it that way in case.

Bike started first time, hardly cranked before it caught. Kawasaki reliability? Beauty of E.F.I.?

(I'd oiled the chain, did tyre pressure and given the bike a safety check first.)

Lesson 3: Lack of engine braking and slow drop-off of RPM when you pull the clutch in can mean you've left the choke on. I'd forgotten I'd tried it when giving the old battery its last go. Forgot to turn it off. Fishing for the lever in the dark I turned my hazard lights on. Luckily in a place where it did no harm.

Went for a pootle down the Gorge, up past Petone, over SH58 and back home. Bike perfect, me needing to get out more - and a pair of Winter Gloves.

Lesson 4: To set the clock...

[Gremlin]

Batteries can go to the hazmobile that usually does the rounds.

[Taz]

One reason -tive is disconnected first and connected last is so when you connect the positive and your tool slips or contacts the frame you don't get those pretty sparks that could (unlikely) damage the battery or set your bike and garage on fire.

[James Deuce]

(Thanks again, everyone.)

Just to finish this off - and give my newbie learnings:

Finally ordered a new battery on Saturday. $145 at Wellington Motorcycles. Guy spoke nice to me so I didn't even bother ringing around, just ordered. (There's a Gorilla sized guy at Motorad who needs that lesson.)

Lesson 1: Unlike the car battery I bought a Month or two ago, bike batteries aren't ready to go off the shelf. The electrolyte has to be put in, and then (of course) they have to be charged. I guess the smaller size and lower stock turn over means they don't store well. So paid with Visa over phone and picked up on Monday. (While looking at bikes playing "what's next?" I was offered coffee... it's not a myth!)

Finally got the chance to put it in tonight. Yausa, basically identical to the one I pulled out.

Free to a good home if someone wants to bother with trying to charge it and stuff. (What do people do with dead batteries? I've still got that car one to get rid of too.)

Lesson 2: According to my service manual (genuine Kawasaki PDF) the negative terminal gets removed first, and put back on last. That's opposite to what I would have done if I hadn't read it first. Don't know how much difference it makes, but did it that way in case.

Bike started first time, hardly cranked before it caught. Kawasaki reliability? Beauty of E.F.I.?

(I'd oiled the chain, did tyre pressure and given the bike a safety check first.)

Lesson 3: Lack of engine braking and slow drop-off of RPM when you pull the clutch in can mean you've left the choke on. I'd forgotten I'd tried it when giving the old battery its last go. Forgot to turn it off. Fishing for the lever in the dark I turned my hazard lights on. Luckily in a place where it did no harm.

Went for a pootle down the Gorge, up past Petone, over SH58 and back home. Bike perfect, me needing to get out more - and a pair of Winter Gloves.

Lesson 4: To set the clock...

Good work. It's not a choke though it's a fast idle lever. To set the clock you hold both buttons in together for 5 seconds and then use select to scroll through hours and minutes once they've been set with the other button.

[St_Gabriel]

In regards to the old battery, take it to the local scrap dealer. Wont be worth too much (i think a car battery was 5 bucks last time I offloaded one) but its better than nothing.

[scumdog]

I'd be inclined to have the battery checked to see if it has had its day but I'd say it's done.
4 years isn't too bad :yes:

Nah, 7 years is not too bad - and 10 years is good.!!:woohoo: