Brake light doesn't work while sitting, once moving it works fine

[DrunkenMistake]

Hey guys,
So I installed an LED integrated tail light not long ago and noticed the brake light didnt come on what so ever, the red running light worked fine and the indicators worked sweet,
So I took it back out and reinstalled the stock tail light to see if I had maybe messed up something, and it does the exactly the same thing,
Put the LED one back in and put it in first with the motor running and clutch lever held tight, and still nothing, from front or back,
(this is becoming a long story ae!) took it down the street and back and got the misses to stand by the gate to tell me if she could see it working, she said it was going fine and she could see when I was activating the brakes,

So im kind of baffled, Im yet to post this in the Hyosung forum, but It hasnt been a super bothered to me as my next wof isnt due till September next year,
I just dont like the fact it doesnt go at a stand still,
Any thoughts?

[EB255GTX]

WTF???

First, you can make your troubleshooting a lot easier and just test with the ign on, and the bike either in gear or not in gear and clutch pulled in or not. No need to ride up and down the road....there's nothing to do with actually moving that changes the brake light circuit.

Second, you say that with the original tail light assembly you have the same problem as with the LED one, well i bet when it came out of the factory your bike's original tail light worked fine, so get it back to working with the original tail light then try putting the LED one on.

Third, you seem to be saying that the brake light works when moving, which proibably means a clutch switch or neutral switch problem - again, you must have changed somethgin in the wiring from stock to make that happen.

Finally - you say this issue doesn't worry you becasue your WOF is not due for a while -----> screw the WOF, what about the fact that your damn BRAKE LIGHTS are not working propery??? Dude, do you want a Kenworth to take you from behind or what?



You should have 2 wires to the rear light assembly. One will have 12V on it all the time (use a test light or spare light bulb to check) and one will only have 12V on it when either front or rear brake is pressed. If it was just the front or rear brake switches that weren't working i'd say dirty or misaligned switch, but since it's both i'd say fuse or wiring or a connector. Although that doesn't explain why it works when moving (unless your problem description is off). A wiring diagram for your bike would really help you fix this.

[jellywrestler]

It hasnt been a super bothered to me as my next wof isnt due till September next year,

Any thoughts?
fuck the warrant, what about your safety?

try revving it at standstill so the batteries actually charging and see whether it works.
could be that your float voltage off charge is insufficient for it to operate.
failing that, either get a volt meter or solder a couple of wires onto a spare bulb and use that to test the circuit

[ducatilover]

They don't always wire up with matching colours either.... I had to fiddle with my LED unit to get the wiring right.

[DrunkenMistake]

They don't always wire up with matching colours either.... I had to fiddle with my LED unit to get the wiring right.

Thinking this could be the case, Just banged it on the stand and gave it another whirl, as I have just done the charging system and what have you, so see if maybe this had something to do with it, got the misses to help me out again, thinking I found my problem.
She was telling me it was going where in reality it wasn't to begin with :facepalm: so ill pull it all apart and go from scratch, im thinking its a possible wire that has come out somewhere without my knowing so, so ill update in a moment,


and I am obviously concerned its nto going or I wouldnt have posted it on KB for you fine gents to see, to my understanding it worked while moving, but not im pretty positive this isnt the case at all,
Will also run some voltmeters tests and what have you if I cant get it to go after stripping it all down and trying again.


Will update soon.

[ducatilover]

I wired mine direct to the battery before I wired my plug in, I found earth, tail and stop then I was sorted.

[FJRider]

Bike's buggered ... give you $20 for it ... :innocent:

[FJRider]

Are you using back or front brake ... ???

Check BOTH brake SWITCHES are working FIRST .....

[DrunkenMistake]

Are you using back or front brake ... ???

Check BOTH brake SWITCHES are working FIRST .....

well ahead of ya,

I had forgotton to say the tail light part itself its prewired all you have to do it plug it into the original light socket, found that after a voltage test with and without the brake on I had all the right readings up to the socket, so would I be right in thinking that the tail light has part itself has been wired up the wrong?

[FJRider]

well ahead of ya,

I had forgotton to say the tail light part itself its prewired all you have to do it plug it into the original light socket, found that after a voltage test with and without the brake on I had all the right readings up to the socket, so would I be right in thinking that the tail light has part itself has been wired up the wrong?

But as I recall ... you said you put the ORIGINAL one on ... with the SAME result ... ???

[DrunkenMistake]

But as I recall ... you said you put the ORIGINAL one on ... with the SAME result ... ???

Yes this is true,
but I hadnt checked the original tail light with the bike under load,
and I cant do it at the moment as my old tail light with bulb is at my parents house.

[FJRider]

Yes this is true,
but I hadnt checked the original tail light with the bike under load,
and I cant do it at the moment as my old tail light with bulb is at my parents house.

For WOF (as I recall) BRAKES ... and ALL lighting is tested STOPPED (often with the engine OFF ... )

ie: NO LOAD.

[DrunkenMistake]

For WOF (as I recall) BRAKES ... and ALL lighting is tested STOPPED (often with the engine OFF ... )

ie: NO LOAD.

yeah, what I mean is,
I had a charging problem which now that I have fixed etc seems to have fixed alot of my issues so im thinking the battery could have been on its way out at that point and thats why it didnt go,

Ill leave it for now and try again tomorrow when I get a chance.

[ducatilover]

I'll give you a fucked ZZR600 for it, mine's faster by a lot. Needs a small amount of TLC

[DrunkenMistake]

I'll give you a fucked ZZR600 for it, mine's faster by a lot. Needs a small amount of TLC

For the tail light?
Deal. :crazy:

[ducatilover]

For the tail light?
Deal. :crazy:

Yes.

Wait.
No.

[EB255GTX]

you have already found that it's nothing to do with the bike moving, and it's unlikely to be to do with your battery/charging system as such - as long as you have enough charge to light up a bulb, you can test the wiring.

so it really should be as simple as: You have the bike frame, which is negative. you have 2 wires to the rear light, which are +12v when ign on (tail light wire) and +12V when either brake switch is on(brake light wire).

You say you have measured "all the right voltages" - is that zero when brake switches are off and around 12V when on? If so, put a test bulb on those wires, just any old bulb, sometimes one of the indicator bulbs that have short pieces of wire coming off them are able to be poked into the socket and make contact.

If the bulb lights up, then you know the new tail light cluster is the problem.

[DrunkenMistake]

Grabbed the tail light from mum and dads and banged in a new bulb, it is indeed the socket causing the drama, have tested on both sides of the plug and all the readings are correct, come to the socket and I have 12.9 on two pins and nothing for the third, (with the break lever on).

cheers for the help