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888
6th December 2011, 12:24
I'm just about to trade my dr650 for a m50 and I'm interested to hear if anyone has debaffled the exhaust- any performance gains? I know it's going to be louder, and that is all good! As long as there are no negative impacts...

munster
6th December 2011, 15:01
I haven't de-baffled, but I've drilled the rear plate out with a series of holes. Dad's M50 is de-baffled (stage 1 only) and sounds great, little deeper than mine and no noticable loss of power compared to my bike.

Jerry74
6th December 2011, 15:41
I did my M50 google honest abes exhaust mod...

Changes the sound considerably makes it sound like a bike instead of a sewing machine.

Cold chisel, hole saw and a length of brrom handle to snap out the baffles.

Or just go the whole way and buy a harley.

The Lone Rider
6th December 2011, 15:48
I'm just about to trade my dr650 for a m50 and I'm interested to hear if anyone has debaffled the exhaust- any performance gains? I know it's going to be louder, and that is all good! As long as there are no negative impacts...

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/136046-Finally-got-a-cruiser?p=1130019068#post1130019068

And you can reference the link above to this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFyUFnC0hNM&feature=related

888
6th December 2011, 16:48
Great feedback and info- I can't wait to get on the M50- shaft drive, inverted forks, why in the world would I spend the extra money on a Harley? Especially when the M50 will blow away any 883..marketing on HD is great and the perceived "coolness" might be there for some- but I'll take performance and value any day of the week. :laugh::laugh:

munster
6th December 2011, 16:57
Look forward to catching up sometime for a ride.

The M50 can keep up with the big boys on 'spirited' rides that's for sure.

iYRe
6th December 2011, 18:21
I've got a debaffled VL800 Volusia - I have original exhausts and the debaffled set, and swap em around.. I dont notice any real difference, apart from the noise... that sweet sweet noise :P

888
7th December 2011, 06:45
So it looks like a relatively easy job of drilling holes in the first baffle, I'll start with that however getting some cobra drag pipes from the states will certainly be on the list. The dealer quoted me $1500 dollars for some Vance/Hines pipes- while I admire their profit margin I won't be giving them my money! I'll be interested to see how the seat feels after a couple of hours, but I'm confident it will be waaaay more comfortable than the DR!

iYRe
7th December 2011, 08:41
So it looks like a relatively easy job of drilling holes in the first baffle, I'll start with that however getting some cobra drag pipes from the states will certainly be on the list. The dealer quoted me $1500 dollars for some Vance/Hines pipes- while I admire their profit margin I won't be giving them my money! I'll be interested to see how the seat feels after a couple of hours, but I'm confident it will be waaaay more comfortable than the DR!

It will be..
Also, check out www.volusiariders.com - lotsa info and deals on stuff people are getting rid of..

The Lone Rider
7th December 2011, 19:01
So it looks like a relatively easy job of drilling holes in the first baffle, I'll start with that however getting some cobra drag pipes from the states will certainly be on the list. The dealer quoted me $1500 dollars for some Vance/Hines pipes- while I admire their profit margin I won't be giving them my money! I'll be interested to see how the seat feels after a couple of hours, but I'm confident it will be waaaay more comfortable than the DR!

A lot of Cobras are way to loud for most people. And you will need to retune your engine with them, if you want to maintain the same or peak performance.

If you want even more wham and bam, once you drill the first plate, weld a drill bit to a shaft the same diameter of the drill bit(s). Then run the shaft down the new holes you've drilled until it touches the next plate, and turn the drill on and put holes through the second plate.

Failing that, build some mufflers. It is easy to make a set of 2" slip on mufflers, running 2" diameter removable drag pipe baffles. You can then further modify the baffling on those, by packing around the drag pipe baffle.

See if this video works for you

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=461478875140

Jerry74
8th December 2011, 18:57
Great feedback and info- I can't wait to get on the M50- shaft drive, inverted forks, why in the world would I spend the extra money on a Harley? Especially when the M50 will blow away any 883..marketing on HD is great and the perceived "coolness" might be there for some- but I'll take performance and value any day of the week. :laugh::laugh:

Thats why i avoided an 883, I have a 1450 bored and scremin eagle tuned to 1550 it blows away any other cruiser apart from a rocket.

These days late model harleys TC88 inch are ultra reliable as much as jappas and sound heaps cooler.

The Lone Rider
8th December 2011, 20:03
Thats why i avoided an 883, I have a 1450 bored and scremin eagle tuned to 1550 it blows away any other cruiser apart from a rocket.

These days late model harleys TC88 inch are ultra reliable as much as jappas and sound heaps cooler.

I firmly say, the above is a load of rubbish.

And I'd be willing to put my 18 year old 45 cube cruiser on a drag line to prove it. Factory reports it at 63hp and dyno results only vary from 67hp to 87hp depending on the exhaust on it. Would love to get it official once I happen to be in the same place as the Harris dyno (it's free).

A stage one Screamin Eagle "tune up" produces about 70hp

For comparison, this following list has been dynoed at 97hp (note - you need a lot of money to get all this)

1550 Cylinders, Branch Flowmetrics Headwork, 10.5-1 JE Pistons, Andrews G-55 Cam, Screamin' Eagle Stage 1 Air Cleaner Kit, Basaani True Dual Exhaust System, Dynojet PC w/ Custom MAP.

In saying that, M50 dynos report about 45hp.

And you obviously need the reports side my side to see the way the engine handles the power.

And receipt to receipt for repairs. In the last 80,000Km or more I've ridden the bike, it has only needed a new battery, cam chain, drive chain & sprockets, volt reg and I recently re-did the fork seals. I've also re-covered the seat.

I would be happy to be proved wrong.

Jerry74
9th December 2011, 07:21
I firmly say, the above is a load of rubbish.

And I'd be willing to put my 18 year old 45 cube cruiser on a drag line to prove it. Factory reports it at 63hp and dyno results only vary from 67hp to 87hp depending on the exhaust on it. Would love to get it official once I happen to be in the same place as the Harris dyno (it's free).

A stage one Screamin Eagle "tune up" produces about 70hp

For comparison, this following list has been dynoed at 97hp (note - you need a lot of money to get all this)

1550 Cylinders, Branch Flowmetrics Headwork, 10.5-1 JE Pistons, Andrews G-55 Cam, Screamin' Eagle Stage 1 Air Cleaner Kit, Basaani True Dual Exhaust System, Dynojet PC w/ Custom MAP.

In saying that, M50 dynos report about 45hp.

And you obviously need the reports side my side to see the way the engine handles the power.

And receipt to receipt for repairs. In the last 80,000Km or more I've ridden the bike, it has only needed a new battery, cam chain, drive chain & sprockets, volt reg and I recently re-did the fork seals. I've also re-covered the seat.

I would be happy to be proved wrong.

Ok dude I will happily prove you wrong lol... mine is stage 2 screaming eagle worked... screaming eagle racing ignition set to 6400 redline,fully worked heads and barrells 203 cams, dynotuned etc has been dyno tested at Trevor Pierce at 103 hp.
This is one seriously quick bike will wind off the clock on a long straight 220 km plus. ( long being the word as it is a heavy old pig)
Avon City Suzuki sold it to me and Josh there can vouch for all work done to it.
Work cost the last owner excess of $15000

The Lone Rider
9th December 2011, 15:34
Ok dude I will happily prove you wrong lol... mine is stage 2 screaming eagle worked... screaming eagle racing ignition set to 6400 redline,fully worked heads and barrells 203 cams, dynotuned etc has been dyno tested at Trevor Pierce at 103 hp.
This is one seriously quick bike will wind off the clock on a long straight 220 km plus. ( long being the word as it is a heavy old pig)
Avon City Suzuki sold it to me and Josh there can vouch for all work done to it.
Work cost the last owner excess of $15000

Your boast of your modified bike topping any stock bike bar a Rocket is still false, regardless of the upgrades. A Suzuki 109 series and a stock V-rod (at 110hp from rear wheel).

On top of that, if we are talking bikes with $15000 chucked into them that extra $15K makes your Harley on the low end of performance bikes. A 109 with only a set of pipes, air filter, and re-code will do 118hp.

And most importantly of all - you've compared of a 1550cc bike plus the $15K additions to an 800cc stock suzuki bike (that WILL outperform the Harley 833cc 42hp equivalent), in a thread about debaffling one. You might as well boast of owning the turbocharged land speed record Hayabusa as it has little to do with an M50. Or debaffling.

edit-

And still happy to put my old bike against yours.

White trash
9th December 2011, 20:41
Ok dude I will happily prove you wrong lol... mine is stage 2 screaming eagle worked... screaming eagle racing ignition set to 6400 redline,fully worked heads and barrells 203 cams, dynotuned etc has been dyno tested at Trevor Pierce at 103 hp.
This is one seriously quick bike will wind off the clock on a long straight 220 km plus. ( long being the word as it is a heavy old pig)
Avon City Suzuki sold it to me and Josh there can vouch for all work done to it.
Work cost the last owner excess of $15000

What the fuck do you do to "fully work " a barrel? Just saying is all.

Jerry74
9th December 2011, 20:48
Gee there are some growly types on this site... I was just saying what I had on my bike.... don't bite my head off guys.

Back to the M50 de baffle well worth it anyways made a large improvement to mine when I had it.

munster
10th December 2011, 07:28
888, if you don't have the tools or are unsure what to do etc and are willing to pop up to Pukekohe, you can use my shed & tools to drill it out.

888
11th December 2011, 19:34
888, if you don't have the tools or are unsure what to do etc and are willing to pop up to Pukekohe, you can use my shed & tools to drill it out.

Sounds like an excellent plan. I've had my first 400k's on the M50 and love it! the only "cons" that I have are the rear suspension is a bit harsh compared to the DR650 and the exhaust is soooo quiet I keep having to accelerate past 150kph to make sure the bike is actually turned on...:devil2: Send me a PM with your cell so we can organize the modification. Of course I will bring an appropriate amount of amber nectar as payment. Oh yeah, I almost forgot- any Harley riders wanna race some of the Waikato backroads? :laugh::laugh:

The Lone Rider
11th December 2011, 22:31
Sounds like an excellent plan. I've had my first 400k's on the M50 and love it! the only "cons" that I have are the rear suspension is a bit harsh compared to the DR650 and the exhaust is soooo quiet I keep having to accelerate past 150kph to make sure the bike is actually turned on...:devil2: Send me a PM with your cell so we can organize the modification. Of course I will bring an appropriate amount of amber nectar as payment. Oh yeah, I almost forgot- any Harley riders wanna race some of the Waikato backroads? :laugh::laugh:

Hey if you're keen, I could use some video of a before and after.

A video of the bike starting up, standing 1m behind then a walk around, plus a ride by

Then debaffle and the same again in video.

I can send you a DVD to burn the raw footage to, and send it back and I'll edit it up.

I'm assuming you are using the 4 large holes, 4 small holes method?

The video would be good reference for others in the future (this is around the 4 or 5th time the same thread question has started up)

888
12th December 2011, 08:06
very keen to see/hear a video of the before/after. Still sitting on the fence as too whether I do it or not, but the video may help in the decision.

888
14th December 2011, 16:48
Finally decided to stop being a pussy and got some cutting oil and a 5mm & 10mm cobalt drill bits. Used a pin punch to mark the locations of the holes and got to work- took about 15 minutes and the bike sounds FANTASTIC! What a difference, even just blipping the throttle in the shed. Can't wait to take it out for a blast. Thanks to all for the advice- well worth it, and the holes actually look like they are supposed to be there. Essential modification in my opinion.:cool:

The Lone Rider
14th December 2011, 18:35
Finally decided to stop being a pussy and got some cutting oil and a 5mm & 10mm cobalt drill bits. Used a pin punch to mark the locations of the holes and got to work- took about 15 minutes and the bike sounds FANTASTIC! What a difference, even just blipping the throttle in the shed. Can't wait to take it out for a blast. Thanks to all for the advice- well worth it, and the holes actually look like they are supposed to be there. Essential modification in my opinion.:cool:

So you went with x4 10mm large and x4 5mm smaller?

There is another trick but you have to be real game to try it, and you will need panel beating tools and a decent sized drop saw.

If you know where the first plate is on the inside of the muffler, you can put the muffler under a drop saw and chop a section off the end but leaving yourself 5mm of muffler before the plate that is on the inside.

You then patiently tap the 5mm overhang so that it folds over the plate. This makes the exhaust look completely stock (since it appears to be a sealed unit), but you have in fact reduced the chamber size. This changes the resonant frequency and more gases to escape. You then punch and drill that plate to suit your tastes.

888
15th December 2011, 06:39
Yup- went with 4x10mm and 4x5mm. So while my mod would not appear to require any remapping, I'm assuming that I would need to do something with the mapping if I cut back the muffler? Once the rain stops I'll be out for a test ride to see if there has been any effect on fuel consumption etc, but I don't think there will be any change based on all the posts I've read.

munster
15th December 2011, 07:21
Yup- went with 4x10mm and 4x5mm. So while my mod would not appear to require any remapping, I'm assuming that I would need to do something with the mapping if I cut back the muffler? Once the rain stops I'll be out for a test ride to see if there has been any effect on fuel consumption etc, but I don't think there will be any change based on all the posts I've read.

I still get 350km's out of a tank with my daughter on board, Dad got 400km's (debaffled - hole saw) on his last trip to Levin & back.

888
15th December 2011, 11:02
400 k's!!!!??? I was down to the last bar at 240k, assuming the dealership filled it up completely (which I didn't check!) that puts me at around 280 for a full tank. The bike has 17K on it, so should be broken in and I fill with 98 so I'll be interested to see how far I get on the next tank. Mind you my speed average on the highway was 110kph with bursts up to 150kph so that may be why my mileage was low compared to yours...:devil2: I set up my gps and noticed that 120kph on the speedo was actually 110kph and 60kph was actually 52kph. Pretty much the same as on my old DR650.

iYRe
15th December 2011, 11:31
400 k's!!!!??? I was down to the last bar at 240k, assuming the dealership filled it up completely (which I didn't check!) that puts me at around 280 for a full tank. The bike has 17K on it, so should be broken in and I fill with 98 so I'll be interested to see how far I get on the next tank. Mind you my speed average on the highway was 110kph with bursts up to 150kph so that may be why my mileage was low compared to yours...:devil2: I set up my gps and noticed that 120kph on the speedo was actually 110kph and 60kph was actually 52kph. Pretty much the same as on my old DR650.

I get about 270 in theory, but I always fill around 220 (usually has 14L - so should still be 2-3L "reserve" at 220km).

My GPS shows the same, 120kph on speedo is 109 kph on GPS - but just remember that GPS just gives you an average over the last xx seconds/seconds/whatever. It checks location every xx time units and works out the speed you travelled between those 2 points. The more times/sec it does it, the more accurate - but then, I have some GPS tools on my phone and I can tell you that the accuracy is fairly variable. It goes from about a metre, to hundreds of metres depending on which satellites, how many satellites, how fast you're moving (it appears the faster I go, the less accurate, but I havent _really_ checked that )

skippa1
15th December 2011, 13:38
thinking about doing the same to the Victory.....put some pics up and let us see the damage....:eek:

888
15th December 2011, 16:41
The GPS on your phone won't be anywhere near as accurate as the Garmin Csx60 I'm using, but the whole purpose of GPS'ing is to figure what speed I can cruise without risking the ol' filth nailing me with a ticket! :no: I'll take a pix of the holes (looks very clean) tomorrow and post em. I reckon the cobalt drill bits are the only way to go- I tried using a regular drill bit and it was way too much effort, cutting oil helped out as well. Roll on good weather- next ride will be the Coromandel Loop...:headbang::headbang:

iYRe
15th December 2011, 17:30
The GPS on your phone won't be anywhere near as accurate as the Garmin Csx60 I'm using, but the whole purpose of GPS'ing is to figure what speed I can cruise without risking the ol' filth nailing me with a ticket! :no: I'll take a pix of the holes (looks very clean) tomorrow and post em. I reckon the cobalt drill bits are the only way to go- I tried using a regular drill bit and it was way too much effort, cutting oil helped out as well. Roll on good weather- next ride will be the Coromandel Loop...:headbang::headbang:

true, I guess..

This is what the pipes on mine look like (I have original untouched ones as well):

252709

The Lone Rider
15th December 2011, 17:47
thinking about doing the same to the Victory.....put some pics up and let us see the damage....:eek:

If you do do that, can you please do some video of the bike idling and riding by - before you do the drilling.

Then the same again afterwards.

I want some footage of exactly that so I can use it as an addition to an article I'll do later in the year. This baffle modding stuff comes up very often.

skinman
15th December 2011, 21:43
I get 270km ish to a tank
didnt change when I put V&H pipes on

munster
16th December 2011, 06:40
true, I guess..

This is what the pipes on mine look like (I have original untouched ones as well):

252709

That's what the Americans call the 'Mickey' Plate (looks like Mickey Mouse Ears), a lot of them remove that too, though that will require re-mapping.

The Lone Rider
16th December 2011, 20:13
As a point of interest since you now have an M50 -

There will be a review of a set of forward controls for the M50 in the Jan 2011 issue, courtesy of Munster.

iYRe
16th December 2011, 21:33
I get 270km ish to a tank
didnt change when I put V&H pipes on

I too am in manurewa, we should go for a ride some time :P (if the Mrs ever lets me out)