View Full Version : Seafoam ZXR 250
Spoonrider
18th October 2012, 08:25
Hi guys,
So I have some really weird hesitation issues with my ZXR 250 between 6 - 8k rpm. I have some seafoam to try in it as I think it did sit for quite a while before I bought it. I am going to try it in the tank but also want to try the induction into a vacuum hose while running method, then leave it for 10 -15 mins and then run it. To do this would I just use the main gas line from the tank or the small vacuum hose that comes off the tank?
They say it needs to be a vacuum line that feeds all of the carbs...
Sable
18th October 2012, 11:36
You're a retard.
Spoonrider
18th October 2012, 14:25
Sweet, thanks for the constructive feedback man.
Sable
18th October 2012, 14:43
Sweet, thanks for the constructive feedback man.
No worries, any time
willytheekid
18th October 2012, 14:46
Sweet, thanks for the constructive feedback man.
Yeah...get used too that around here mate.
Seafoam is a very good product, check out there site, every question you may have is answered.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/gasoline-engine-faqs.html
...and yes, you can do the vacume method safely (pour the seafoam into a container and just let the vacume hose suck it out slowly)
Rule of thumb is 1/3 of the seafoam used for the tank, 1/3 for the engine oil and 1/3 for the main vacume line ;)...then a flush out run (don't thrash it!...just a gentle cruise)...remember to change your oil sooner than normal if treating the engine (don't have to do it straight away tho...but it does effect the oils useful life span)
bungbung
18th October 2012, 15:42
Describe the hesitation and how it occurs. Does it hesitate in the same place if you gently wind on the gas compared with cracking it open?
The zxr250 is very sensitive to vacuum leaks, and now they're 20 years old the rubber can be in poor shape.
Spoonrider
18th October 2012, 21:53
Thanks for the replies guys.
So the vacuum line is the smaller tube coming from the petcock?
The hesitation is between 6 - 8k as mentioned, I can feel the bike holding back at low throttle, if I give it more throttle I can push through it. When the hesitation is occuring the exhaust sound is noticably different. Kinda hard to explain, the other thing that I notice when this happens is that when I pull up to a stop at lights or whatever the idle goes low like it is going to stall.
ducatilover
18th October 2012, 22:01
It's lean on the transition to the main jet.
Is it running a standard air filter and muffler?
If it's running aftermarket filter and/or muffler you'll want to go up in jet sizes and needle height.
Or your float heights are on the piss
Sable
19th October 2012, 02:24
Needles could be worn. Disassembly, float height adjustment and thorough cleaning then go from there. Still, stupid fucking question
FJRider
19th October 2012, 06:55
Sweet, thanks for the constructive feedback man.
If you don't know what is actually the issue causing the hesitation, how do you know your intended "fix" will actually help ... let alone FIX the problem. Especially when you need to ask how to do it.
Retard ... is probably being quite polite ...
Spoonrider
19th October 2012, 07:35
Someone suggested that the carbs, or in particular, the jets may be gummed up. They said I may as well try Seafoam before taking everything apart (or getting a professional to do that) to see if it helps. I was going to add some to the gas in my tank and as suggested, I was going to try some down the vacuum hose too and just wanted to make sure I was using the right hose.
For a bike of this age and value, is it worth getting someone to take it apart, check the needles and do the right adjustments?
Is it even possible to get new needles for these bikes anymore?
Everyone starts out as a newbie at some point and needs a little advice from time to time...
Thanks anyway to the people that have replied me constructively.
willytheekid
19th October 2012, 08:41
Someone suggested that the carbs, or in particular, the jets may be gummed up. They said I may as well try Seafoam before taking everything apart (or getting a professional to do that) to see if it helps. I was going to add some to the gas in my tank and as suggested, I was going to try some down the vacuum hose too and just wanted to make sure I was using the right hose.
For a bike of this age and value, is it worth getting someone to take it apart, check the needles and do the right adjustments?
Is it even possible to get new needles for these bikes anymore?
Everyone starts out as a newbie at some point and needs a little advice from time to time...
Thanks anyway to the people that have replied me constructively.
Don't worry about the mean comments mate. (I thought it was a reasonable question and request for advice...nothing to be attacked over or called names about?)
Seafoam IS a good place to start :yes:
If the bike has indeed been sitting for a long time it may well just need a clean out/flush of the carbs, as it could be somthing simple like a partially blocked jet or sticky floats etc.(which seafoam should fix...as this is what it is designed to do)
However-
If you treat the bike with seafoam and the problem is still there, THEN you can move onto the next action of getting greasy and throwing some tools at it. (Or taking it to a mechanic if your not confident in doing it yourself)
Check the emulsion tubes are not blocked or that any of the rubber tubes and seals are not perishing...could be an air leak or blockage, or even crud in the fuel tank/fuel tap etc, but a good place to start would be popping the plugs out to give you a sign of what is happening in each cylinder in regards to air fuel mix (read the plugs..what colour are they-grey, black, brown or melted! lol)...always start with the basics before ripping things to bits.
Treating the bike with seafoam will not hurt in the least, and may just fix the issue with minimal cost and effort involved...so why not start there:msn-wink:
If it dosn't work, it hasn't cost you much money or time and the bike still benefits from getting a good flush out after sitting for so long.(You may want to put new plugs in as well and give it an oil change not long after the seafoam clean out :niceone:)
Best of luck and I hope you get the problem sorted :yes:
Spoonrider
19th October 2012, 09:46
Thanks Willytheekid.
I take it that if I take the vacuum hose off the petcock (the small hose) in order to introduce the Seafoam, that I will need to turn the petcock to the prime setting to allow the gas to flow freely?
bogan
19th October 2012, 10:35
Petcock vac lines are often only connected to one cylinder/carb. But yes, you would need to turn it to prime. I'm not quite sure why you would want to put it through a vac hose anyway? If its varnish on the main jets adding it to the fuel should clear it up. If not, the carbs will need taking apart, and unless you've changed the exhaust or intake, start with the float heights.
Coolz
19th October 2012, 10:42
Thanks Willytheekid.
I take it that if I take the vacuum hose off the petcock (the small hose) in order to introduce the Seafoam, that I will need to turn the petcock to the prime setting to allow the gas to flow freely?
That sounds about right to me. I mentioned Seafoam on here once and they all jumped down my throat also. Seafoam doesn't seem that well known here but is highly recommended on American forums. Good luck.
Spoonrider
19th October 2012, 11:36
Yeah think I will just try it in the gas tank and if it doesn't resolve the issue then move on from there and get the carbs apart.
How much around should I be paying for someone to pull the carbs and check \ adjust them?
Thanks
bogan
19th October 2012, 11:39
Yeah think I will just try it in the gas tank and if it doesn't resolve the issue then move on from there and get the carbs apart.
How much around should I be paying for someone to pull the carbs and check \ adjust them?
Thanks
Not sure what they might charge, if you want to learn about this sort of stuff get a mate to help out, or the motorcycle doctor has a good rep too.
FJRider
19th October 2012, 14:31
Yeah think I will just try it in the gas tank and if it doesn't resolve the issue then move on from there and get the carbs apart.
How much around should I be paying for someone to pull the carbs and check \ adjust them?
Thanks
If they know what they're doing ... pay what they ask. If you don't know ... it will be easier and cheaper in the long run. Most bike shops will have a pretty good idea how long/how much ... it should take. Ring one or more ... and ask. Ask the one closest to your place first.
And .... !!!!!!!!! ... ask yourself ...
How long since the air filter was changed/cleaned ... ???
How long since your fuel filters were changed/cleaned (this includes the one attached above the fuel tap inside the tank) ... ???
How long since you changed/cleaned the plugs ... ???
If the answer to the above questions is in the region of a few thousand km's (or more) ... check those three FIRST. A blocked/dirty air filter will lean the engine out as well. Apart from using more gas than you should ... lean running engines can cause engine damage too ...
Spoonrider
19th October 2012, 15:17
It was serviced by Motorcycle Doctors not long ago and hasn't been ridden that much since. I did talk to George (who I trust) and he mentioned it might be the needles or something like that. Might just try the seafoam and if no better get him to come sort it. Just don't know if it is worth putting the money into it or just getting rid of it...
Thanks for the help and advice anyway guys.
ducatilover
22nd October 2012, 20:26
I would avoid seafoam, it can damage the rubber tips on your float needles (sometimes)
You're looking at ~$100 per carb for cleaning at most dealers I expect.
The carb clean/adjust isn't a very hard job and if you're a pedantic and/or methodical person, you'll enjoy it too. I'd say it's a 3-4/10 on the hard scale (that's what she said...)
If I was up that way, I'd pop over and clean/adjust the lot for a pack of ciggies and a cold beverage.
Get George to look at it if you're unsure, I've heard many good things about that fellow
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