Getting back into riding but first new bike how to treat?

[Danzano]

Hi Guys I have just had my loan approved for a 2013 LAMS ER6NL 33kW

Couple of questions

This will be my first ever new bike and also the first bike im getting on for the past 2 years after I entered full time work. So im clueless with a brand new bike. On all of the forums there are 10,000 theorys about how to treat a new bike what to do with it to get the best results etc. So my questions are mostly how should I break in the bike? and do tyres really take 150km to wear in properly?

The theorys I have seen so far are very vague and vary alot. The Kawasaki manual says 800km under 4000RPM then 1600km under 6000RPM so are they using loss tolerances or are they being conservative or spot on?

One popular theory break it in hard on a dyno with 3 oil changes 7 heat cycles and around 80km travel with varying loads and all gearing taken through the range what do you guys think of this?

The extreme dyno break in is said to give more HP and better compression the long way is said to give longer engine life because it lets the bearing etc self polish and therefore not get any micro scaring or tearing which is a risk with the harsh method apparently but then the harsh method people say new bearings dont need to self polish because of new manufacture techniques.

I have been reading as much as possible because the bike im buying I want to learn on so learners restricted then full and unrestrict it to 53kW and keep it. It will take 5years to pay off so how do I do what is best for the bike and protect the biggest investment in my life thus far.

Thanks guys for any replies and can't wait to get back into riding its been to long.

[nerrrd]

There's a LAMS ER6N?? Didn't realise that. How much are they asking for one?

Anyway, enjoy your new ride!

[speeding_ant]

Hi Guys I have just had my loan approved for a 2013 LAMS ER6N

Couple of questions

This will be my first ever new bike and also the first bike im getting on for the past 2 years after I entered full time work. So im clueless with a brand new bike. On all of the forums there are 10,000 theorys about how to treat a new bike what to do with it to get the best results etc. So my questions are mostly how should I break in the bike? and do tyres really take 150km to wear in properly?

The theorys I have seen so far are very vague and vary alot. The Kawasaki manual says 800km under 4000RPM then 1600km under 6000RPM so are they using loss tolerances or are they being conservative or spot on?

One popular theory break it in hard on a dyno with 3 oil changes 7 heat cycles and around 80km travel with varying loads and all gearing taken through the range what do you guys think of this?

The extreme dyno break in is said to give more HP and better compression the long way is said to give longer engine life because it lets the bearing etc self polish and therefore not get any micro scaring or tearing which is a risk with the harsh method apparently but then the harsh method people say new bearings dont need to self polish because of new manufacture techniques.

I have been reading as much as possible because the bike im buying I want to learn on so learners restricted then full and unrestrict it to 53kW and keep it. It will take 5years to pay off so how do I do what is best for the bike and protect the biggest investment in my life thus far.

Thanks guys for any replies and can't wait to get back into riding its been to long.

Best to follow the guidelines in the manual. If you're stuck with it for at least 5 years, you wouldn't want any nasty surprises. Unlikely to happen, but you never know. Might be a good idea to take it easy while you're getting used to a bike again too.

Or, just fang it and see what happens.

[BigAl]

I've had a few new bikes and always run them in easy, main thing is to vary revs and going over the suggested rev limits occaisionally will not hurt.

Modern tyres scrub in really quickly, just don't dump the clutch leaving the shop unless someone is filming.;)

Bike motors used to be bench run to redline for a few minutes before assembly, so a bit of a fang should not hurt.

[Glowerss]

Hi Guys I have just had my loan approved for a 2013 LAMS ER6N

Couple of questions

This will be my first ever new bike and also the first bike im getting on for the past 2 years after I entered full time work. So im clueless with a brand new bike. On all of the forums there are 10,000 theorys about how to treat a new bike what to do with it to get the best results etc. So my questions are mostly how should I break in the bike? and do tyres really take 150km to wear in properly?

The theorys I have seen so far are very vague and vary alot. The Kawasaki manual says 800km under 4000RPM then 1600km under 6000RPM so are they using loss tolerances or are they being conservative or spot on?

One popular theory break it in hard on a dyno with 3 oil changes 7 heat cycles and around 80km travel with varying loads and all gearing taken through the range what do you guys think of this?

The extreme dyno break in is said to give more HP and better compression the long way is said to give longer engine life because it lets the bearing etc self polish and therefore not get any micro scaring or tearing which is a risk with the harsh method apparently but then the harsh method people say new bearings dont need to self polish because of new manufacture techniques.

I have been reading as much as possible because the bike im buying I want to learn on so learners restricted then full and unrestrict it to 53kW and keep it. It will take 5years to pay off so how do I do what is best for the bike and protect the biggest investment in my life thus far.

Thanks guys for any replies and can't wait to get back into riding its been to long.


There's a LAMS ER6N?? Didn't realise that. How much are they asking for one?

Anyway, enjoy your new ride!


Sure isn't a LAMS ER6n according to the NZTA. And the ER6n Isn't LAMS approved. Aus has a LAMS Approved ER6nL or ER6fL, but none so far as I've heard or seen of here.

IF you did actually get a ER6nL or whatever, you might want to get it submitted to the NZTA prontoish, as currently it isn't on the LAMS list and you wouldn't be legal riding it.

Also, you might want to find out what it costs to "derestrict" it. Most of the time it takes a new ECU which can be quite pricey.

[pritch]

I think you are worrying too much. Do what the manual says.

Tyres: new tyres tend to be slippery. The manufacturers use silicone as a release agent to get the tyre out of the mould easily. A slippery motorcycle tyre is not a good thing. Take it carefully, you will be able to see the wear spead across the tyre. Too much lean too soon and you will likely be on yer ear.

This doesn't just apply to new bikes, it's every time you replace a tyre. I've now got two rides in on a new tyre, the chicken strips are getting smaller so it should soon be playtime...

And some new tyres are lethal in the rain, so it's best to scrub them in dry.

[nerrrd]

Sure isn't a LAMS ER6n. And the ER6n Isn't LAMS approved. Methinks somebody made a slight boo-boo and may be in for a disappointing shock.

There is a LAMS ER6N in Oz, maybe they're newly arrived in NZ?

As you were, just saw the rest of your post...

[Subike]

There's a LAMS ER6N?? Didn't realise that. How much are they asking for one?

Anyway, enjoy your new ride!


Sure isn't a LAMS ER6n. And the ER6n Isn't LAMS approved. Methinks somebody made a slight boo-boo and may be in for a disappointing shock.

The op did not say it was his first bike ever, just his first NEW bike.
Some time KBers reading skills have a bit to be desired.

Running in has many schools of thought.
Mine very first was to do a good 60k run, up to the road speed, and backing off to 80kph, varying the load on the motor.
To sit on a constant speed on a new motor could cause the bore to glaze, the result being an oil burner.
So for my first 300k, I varied the load on the engine as much as possibility, (hill work is good for this) without taking it into its higher rev range. At 300k, I drained the oil, and replaced the filter, I also cleaned the ait filter, and went over the entire engine chassis with spanners and sockets to check all bolts I has access to.
IAfter the 300k, I started doing constant speed trips till 1000k, but not taking the motor into its upper rev range,
Again at 1000k I changed the oil and filter.
From then I have just ridden it, 13000k in 8 mths from new. It burns no oil, quite happily buzzes away at the open road sped, plus for overtaking. And starts every time without the choke. This was over the last winter. Oh its just a Chinese 250 V twin, and it will if pushed hum up to 140kph. Bugger

[nerrrd]

Some time KBers reading skills have a bit to be desired.

Guilty as charged...

[FJRider]

Thanks guys for any replies and can't wait to get back into riding its been to long.

Theories, opinions, or facts ... ALL may vary.

What REALLY matters is ... you follow THEIR guidelines to maintain your warranty.

Entirely your choice though ...

[tigertim20]

just follow what it says in the manual - everyone else will have their theories, but its YOU that is forking out a large chunk of money here.
Follow the manual, being off the road for a couple years means youll probably want to take it easy for say 1600 kms anyway . . .

Get it, follow the manual, and enjoy!

[Glowerss]

The op did not say it was his first bike ever, just his first NEW bike.
Some time KBers reading skills have a bit to be desired.

Running in has many schools of thought.
Mine very first was to do a good 60k run, up to the road speed, and backing off to 80kph, varying the load on the motor.
To sit on a constant speed on a new motor could cause the bore to glaze, the result being an oil burner.
So for my first 300k, I varied the load on the engine as much as possibility, (hill work is good for this) without taking it into its higher rev range. At 300k, I drained the oil, and replaced the filter, I also cleaned the ait filter, and went over the entire engine chassis with spanners and sockets to check all bolts I has access to.
IAfter the 300k, I started doing constant speed trips till 1000k, but not taking the motor into its upper rev range,
Again at 1000k I changed the oil and filter.
From then I have just ridden it, 13000k in 8 mths from new. It burns no oil, quite happily buzzes away at the open road sped, plus for overtaking. And starts every time without the choke. This was over the last winter. Oh its just a Chinese 250 V twin, and it will if pushed hum up to 140kph. Bugger

The irony in your post is spectacular, sir. :bash: The OP EXPLICITLY states two things:

A) It's a LAMS bike, and

B) " have been reading as much as possible because the bike im buying I want to learn on so learners restricted then full and unrestrict it to 53kW and keep it. It will take 5years to pay off so how do I do what is best for the bike and protect the biggest investment in my life thus far. "

I suggest you read more carefully yourself there big fulla before accusing other people of the same thing :girlfight:

[FJRider]

... being off the road for a couple years means youll probably want to take it easy for say 1600 kms anyway . . .

Get it, follow the manual, and enjoy!

I've done more k's than that in a weekend. Less than 5 tanks of fuel. Not long to ride like a nana ...

[nerrrd]

Reading/written comprehension skills aside, they've sharpened up the styling nicely on the 2013 version (going by the pics on the Oz website.)

[Danzano]

There's a LAMS ER6N?? Didn't realise that. How much are they asking for one?

Anyway, enjoy your new ride!

Around $16000 but thats LAMS ABS 650 so I thought it's a solid investment they are only coming in this year though the LAMS ones and only if they are ordered in advance as far as I know.

[Glowerss]

Around $16000 but thats LAMS ABS 650 so I thought it's a solid investment they are only coming in this year though the LAMS ones and only if they are ordered in advance as far as I know.

Right on. Glad to hear it :2thumbsup

You may want to submit an application in to the NZTA, however, as it isn't currently on our LAMS list. It'll get approved of for sure if the aussies have. But you won't be legal until it's added.

[Danzano]

Sure isn't a LAMS ER6n according to the NZTA. And the ER6n Isn't LAMS approved. Aus has a LAMS Approved ER6nL or ER6fL, but none so far as I've heard or seen of here.

IF you did actually get a ER6nL or whatever, you might want to get it submitted to the NZTA prontoish, as currently it isn't on the LAMS list and you wouldn't be legal riding it.

Also, you might want to find out what it costs to "derestrict" it. Most of the time it takes a new ECU which can be quite pricey.

The ER6NL abides to:

a maximum power-to-weight ratio of 150 kilowatts per tonne (the power is that specified by the manufacturer and the weight is the weight specified by the manufacturer plus 90kgs for the rider and riding gear); and
an upper engine capacity limit of 660cc.

Also google image search
ER650FDFW
EX650FDFW

Both show the ER6N also the ER6NL is the same engine as used in http://www.kawasaki.co.nz/catalog/streetbikes/sports/EX650FDSW/overview

If the NZTA does not approve it then yes I will write to them as it would be absurde for it to be illegal.

Also to derestrict it is easy one fuse and a bolt in the throttle body should not need new ecu.

[Danzano]

The irony in your post is spectacular, sir. :bash: The OP EXPLICITLY states two things:

A) It's a LAMS bike, and

B) " have been reading as much as possible because the bike im buying I want to learn on so learners restricted then full and unrestrict it to 53kW and keep it. It will take 5years to pay off so how do I do what is best for the bike and protect the biggest investment in my life thus far. "

I suggest you read more carefully yourself there big fulla before accusing other people of the same thing :girlfight:

Also big fulla was right there I just didnt want to say I have not so legal riding experience from when I was younger or ummmm I mean track days............

[tigertim20]

Hi Guys

the bike im buying I want to learn on so learners restricted then full and unrestrict it to 53kW





Also to derestrict it is easy one fuse and a bolt in the throttle body .

:killingme:killingme:killingme

[FJRider]

Also to derestrict it is easy one fuse and a bolt in the throttle body should not need new ecu.

Usually the MAIN reason they are not on the list. And they have stated derestricted models of any brand of motorcycles are not (and never will be) on the list.

[Danzano]

Usually the MAIN reason they are not on the list. And they have stated derestricted models of any brand of motorcycles are not (and never will be) on the list.

Exactly so I import it restricted I keep it restricted untill I get my full licence and then I derestrict it I mean really even if it did take a new ecu then im paying for an upgrade instead of a whole new bike either way I thought it was a win win.

Also thankyou to everyone who answered my actual 2 questions about tyres and also break in period and method on the engine. I think you guys are right and i'll stick to what the book says so I can claim warrenty and such.

Also good to know most people on here are friendly and constructive with there posts

[FJRider]

Exactly so I import it restricted I keep it restricted untill I get my full licence and then I derestrict it I mean really even if it did take a new ecu then im paying for an upgrade instead of a whole new bike either way I thought it was a win win.



Question one ... Who told you it was LAM's approved .. ??


two ... Which part of Restricted motorcycles are NOT LAM's approved .. don't you understand ??



Your intent is understandable ... but under the LAM's rules ... not allowed.

[Danzano]

Question one ... Who told you it was LAM's approved .. ??


two ... Which part of Restricted motorcycles are NOT LAM's approved .. don't you understand ??



Your intent is understandable ... but under the LAM's rules ... not allowed.

The dealership that said this is the first year they are also coming to NZ

Also the bike ER6NL runs the same engine as http://www.kawasaki.co.nz/catalog/streetbikes/sports/EX650FDSW/overview which is on the kawasaki NZ website being sold as a LAMS motorcycle but runs the exact same engine and restriction so either kawasaki is commiting fraud to nz people looking into these bikes or alternitively its another lazy nz gov website that needs to update its lists and or is currently approving said bikes??

Im not good with legal things and I could be completly wrong but it seems a bit silly right?

Also the whole reason I want that bike is because the last bike I used for any period of time was a trumpy RS sprint so I dont wanna grab a 250 just for licencing and out grow it quickly or another bike that is higher capacity but gutless and will need selling at some point anyway.

Can anyone help on the matter or what do I need to do to get it approved? I dont want the whole exercise and all the hassle with the bank etc to be in vein especially when the math and idea are solid as hell under nzta's own rules

ER6NL 35kW right? So 35 divide by 206kg bike curb weight plus me 89kg then times by 1000 118 kilowatts over the tonne eg under 150kW/T and ABS brakes an advanced safety feature as nzta states

But I guess all fails and a few of us on here get one www.nzta.govt.nz/licence/getting/docs/lams-applications.pdf. will have to do the trick then its a waiting game.

[FJRider]

It is not the engine .. but the ease and ability to DE- restrict the motorcycle.

Get confirmation from LTSA that it is (will be) LAM's approved. A phone call maybe.

[FJRider]

Also good to know most people on here are friendly and constructive with there posts

And some don't listen to what they are being told.

[Danzano]

It is not the engine .. but the ease and ability to DE- restrict the motorcycle.

Get confirmation from LTSA that it is (will be) LAM's approved. A phone call maybe.

Problem being the one on the website that i linked is the exact same process unless they have changed it on the 2013 model

I think I will need to as it is not that easy you have to know where to look and be able to take out the throttle assy so most would have to see a mechanic who would say no if on anything but a full licence and you would be stupid to do it before getting your full because of insurance etc

But yes I think my plan for tomorrow will be to phone them and to apply for it to go on the list etc

[FJRider]

I think I will need to as it is not that easy you have to know where to look and be able to take out the throttle assy so most would have to see a mechanic who would say no if on anything but a full licence and you would be stupid to do it before getting your full because of insurance etc

It does not matter who does the de-restriction .. it only matters that it CAN be done. That simple.


But yes I think my plan for tomorrow will be to phone them and to apply for it to go on the list etc

You don't ring to apply (they wont let you do that on the phone anyway) ... just ask for confirmation it is, or it will be on the approved list.

[bluninja]

Ignoring the LAMs issue....

Tyres : personally I find a road with lots of slow speed turns and an abrasive surface. I ride on the straight applying the brakes progressively from light to hard braking to scrub in the centre. This helps warm up the tyre and (for a new bike, or with new pads) helps bed in the brakes. It also allows you to get to know your stopping capabilities and how your bike feels. Then take it through the slow twisties gradually increasing the lean angle, tll it leans as far as you are comfortable with. Then get off and have a look at your tyre to see the wear pattern and if you have worn off the slippery stuff of the tyre that you use. You can do this in the wet too, (sometimes it rains for weeks), just be more careful.

Engine breakin : I've only had 6 brand new bikes, run in 3 by the book (all Kawasakis ZZR600, ZL600, ZX9R)and all was sweet.....the ZX9R wasn't down on power on Monza racetrack against race prepped 900s and I ran it for 5 years with a sweet engine. I ran 1 in on the track for racing, power was good...don't know about longevity as I sold it on after 18 months. The other 2 were run in by riding them as normal once the engine was up to temp after scrubbing the tyres and bedding in the brakes, and working the gears till the engine loosens up a bit. The first bike I had for 10 years, and I still have the current bike 18 months on and it seems fine (so far). I've found v-twins seem to take more running in to get the engine sweet than i4s. Don't remember the eliminator being different to the i4s.

As far as warranty goes....how would a manufacturer know what revs you had used at what kms?

[Danzano]

So stick within the book or just outside all will be fine I think I will listen to your advice the most as you use the same brand of bike and how many you have owned speaks for itself

Thanks for your advice and guidance greatly appreciated

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[bluninja]

Thanks, but my last 3 bikes purchases.... new curvy SV650 for racing (new), pointy SV650S (18 months old) for commuting 1200kms a week, new DL650 (SV650 engine in a adventure bike like body). I've only owned Suzukis, Kawasakis, and Aprilias.

[unstuck]

Ride it like you stole it.:2thumbsup


Sent from my computer.:nya:

[nerrrd]

So stick within the book or just outside all will be fine

I'd say the same goes for the LAMS thing - if you're buying it fom a dealer then they need to "stick within the book" and supply it as advertised ie LAMS approved.

BTW the kawasaki ER650FDFW is on the list I looked at. The 2013 ninja 650 ABS LAMS is an EX650FDSW according to the kawasaki NZ website, so maybe there's a typo somewhere?

[FJRider]

I'd say the same goes for the LAMS thing - if you're buying it fom a dealer then they need to "stick within the book" and supply it as advertised ie LAMS approved.

BTW the kawasaki EX650FDFW is on the list I looked at.

Who said it was advertised as being LAM's approved ... ??? The dealer told him it was.

[nerrrd]

Who said it was advertised as being LAM's approved ... ??? The dealer told him it was.

That's one unscrupulous dealer, then...

Wouldn't the CGA apply?

[FJRider]

That's one unscrupulous dealer, then...

Wouldn't the CGA apply?

So the dealer (WHICH ONE .. ???) says ... OOP's and moves on ...

CGA applies to "Fit for the purpose it was intended" ... and as it was fit for the purpose the OP intended ... but that does not change regulations ...

[FJRider]

I'd say the same goes for the LAMS thing - if you're buying it fom a dealer then they need to "stick within the book" and supply it as advertised ie LAMS approved.

BTW the kawasaki ER650FDFW is on the list I looked at. The 2013 ninja 650 ABS LAMS is an EX650FDSW according to the kawasaki NZ website, so maybe there's a typo somewhere?

From ER6N to ER6FDFW is one hell of a typo ... :lol:

[nerrrd]

CGA applies to "Fit for the purpose it was intended" ... and as it was fit for the purpose the OP intended ... but that does not change regulations ...

Good point.

BTW I didn't mean "advertised" in the literal sense, more in the sense of it being "described" to the OP as LAMS approved.

[nerrrd]

From ER6N to ER6FDFW is one hell of a typo ... :lol:

Official model no. for the 2010 ER6N on the NZ website is ER650CAF. So it seems there's a shorter and longer version for each....

[FJRider]

Good point.

BTW I didn't mean "advertised" in the literal sense, more in the sense of it being "described" to the OP as LAMS approved.

If the dealer was informed it would be approved (or even approved in Aussie) ... does not change the fact ... at this point in time ... IT IS NOT approved in NZ.

The OP should discuss the issue with the dealer, ASAP ... if not sooner ...

[FJRider]

Official model no. for the 2010 ER6N on the NZ website is ER650CAF. So it seems there's a shorter and longer version for each....

The 2010 model is not on the list either ... :lol:

Nor is the 2013 model.

[nerrrd]

The OP should discuss the issue with the dealer, ASAP ... if not sooner ...

Most definitely!

[Danzano]

I'd say the same goes for the LAMS thing - if you're buying it fom a dealer then they need to "stick within the book" and supply it as advertised ie LAMS approved.

BTW the kawasaki ER650FDFW is on the list I looked at. The 2013 ninja 650 ABS LAMS is an EX650FDSW according to the kawasaki NZ website, so maybe there's a typo somewhere?

I also looked at the same and there are two on the list one is ex one is er

Is it possible they made a typo?

Official models er equals naked ex equals faired

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[FJRider]

I also looked at the same and there are two on the list one is ex one is er

Is it possible they made a typo?



Doesn't change the fact it is not on the list.

[Danzano]

Doesn't change the fact it is not on the list.

If they screwed the spelling then technically it would be and if not it meets the criteria so ill apply to have it added otherwise this whole LAMs thing is pointless bs if I can't own a bike that meets all criteria

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[DMNTD]

I also looked at the same and there are two on the list one is ex one is er

Is it possible they made a typo?

Official models er equals naked ex equals faired

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

Check your private messages man

[Danzano]

Thanks DMNTD :-)

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[Danzano]

Hi Guys today I spoke with NZTA and with Kawasaki NZ both have confirmed that my bike will be legal when it arrives. Kawasaki had the bike approved 3 months in advance.

The model number from the 2010 CAF ER6N is different because its a different year and model to the LAMS approved edition

The correct model number on the NZTA approved list is the Kawasaki ER650FDFW 649 The D standing for the year and the FFW being model and restriction eg edition.

So all in all thanks for those who gave advice on running the bike in properly and through my own investigation happy to know my bike will be legal when it arrives.

[Glowerss]

Hi Guys today I spoke with NZTA and with Kawasaki NZ both have confirmed that my bike will be legal when it arrives. Kawasaki had the bike approved 3 months in advance.

The model number from the 2010 CAF ER6N is different because its a different year and model to the LAMS approved edition

The correct model number on the NZTA approved list is the Kawasaki ER650FDFW 649 The D standing for the year and the FFW being model and restriction eg edition.

So all in all thanks for those who gave advice on running the bike in properly and through my own investigation happy to know my bike will be legal when it arrives.

Great to hear it mate.

I had a feeling that's what the ER650FDFW 649 was on the LAMs list, however, with a $16,000 investment, it's always better to check first:2thumbsup Most of us prodding you to make sure it is a LAMS bike were just worried for you mate :)

[nerrrd]

Hi Guys today I spoke with NZTA and with Kawasaki NZ both have confirmed that my bike will be legal when it arrives. Kawasaki had the bike approved 3 months in advance.

The model number from the 2010 CAF ER6N is different because its a different year and model to the LAMS approved edition

The correct model number on the NZTA approved list is the Kawasaki ER650FDFW 649 The D standing for the year and the FFW being model and restriction eg edition.

So all in all thanks for those who gave advice on running the bike in properly and through my own investigation happy to know my bike will be legal when it arrives.

Glad to hear it, hope it doesn't take long to get here and you can get out on the road and enjoy it!

[ducatilover]

I was about to stroll in here and point out that it is LAMS legal, but finally after 4 pages of KB goodness, somebody actually knows :eek5:

[Banditbandit]

I've had a few new bikes and always run them in easy, main thing is to vary revs and going over the suggested rev limits occaisionally will not hurt.

Modern tyres scrub in really quickly, just don't dump the clutch leaving the shop unless someone is filming.;)

Bike motors used to be bench run to redline for a few minutes before assembly, so a bit of a fang should not hurt.

What he said ... (I do change the oil after the first 1,000ks ... which is not a factory suggestion but a good idea) I'm probably a little harder on my new engines than BigAl ... take it easy for the first few ks in each range segment ... I tend to keep them at or under the recommended rev range, but when the ks are starting to stack up I let it get to the top of the range as quick as it can a few times ... also go the other way and brake hard to force the enyine back down thas range as well ... it puts slightly different pressures on the engine.

I ran in both bikes I currently ride like that .. and I've had no engine problems from either (one now six years old and 50thou on the clock the other four years old and 48thou on the clock ) ...

[Danzano]

Great to hear it mate.

I had a feeling that's what the ER650FDFW 649 was on the LAMs list, however, with a $16,000 investment, it's always better to check first:2thumbsup Most of us prodding you to make sure it is a LAMS bike were just worried for you mate :)

Thanks Glowerss and I know they were but I got really scared there for a little bit.

Also they come into the country on March 7th if anyone else want's to join in getting one :D

[Danzano]

What he said ... (I do change the oil after the first 1,000ks ... which is not a factory suggestion but a good idea) I'm probably a little harder on my new engines than BigAl ... take it easy for the first few ks in each range segment ... I tend to keep them at or under the recommended rev range, but when the ks are starting to stack up I let it get to the top of the range as quick as it can a few times ... also go the other way and brake hard to force the enyine back down thas range as well ... it puts slightly different pressures on the engine.

I ran in both bikes I currently ride like that .. and I've had no engine problems from either (one now six years old and 50thou on the clock the other four years old and 48thou on the clock ) ...

50 thousand is decent for 2 bikes no issues all clean? When I spoke to the guy at Kawasaki today he agreed to sit in between what the book says and a short break and said you should be able to use the full rev range by 500-800km. I thought would be about right for a 2013 due to the newer manufactoring processes but I think to be on the safe side I wont go past 6000rpm till 1000km?? the book says till 1600km but I think that is being very cautious.

Also Kawasaki recommends a service at 1000km to remove the factory oil etc and apparently the factory oil is made for running in and thats why they require the 1000km service under warrenty :)

Thanks to everyone for the advice and glad I finally got that LAMS scare out the way lol

[Maha]

''I finally got that LAMS scare out the way''

Theres a couple of others on here that have said thatvery thing before today...Baaaaaaaaaaa ;)

[Danzano]

''I finally got that LAMS scare out the way''

Theres a couple of others on here that have said thatvery thing before today...Baaaaaaaaaaa ;)

I bet it's the only issue with a system that new you have to be really care full and it can be scary as he'll if your unsure of any one part lol

I'm just happy I can get my dream bike and all will be ok

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[Danzano]

Heh....yeah I phoned Brent for you too but you had already chatted to him.
He also confirmed that yes it is restricted via the ECU too

Thought so but hey cheap upgrade once I get my full just rip out the ecu and swap as the rest of the engine is identical :-)

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[Danzano]

Paid in full got receipt today now I wait yay

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[Danzano]

Got my licence got everything organised now I just have to wait I wish I had patience :-)

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[arcane12]

Looking forward to hearing more, once you get it! (and probably from time to time while you wait ;) )

[Danzano]

Not long now

And I'll make sure at some point I put up a review in case anyone else is looking at the same bike

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