Getting back into riding but first new bike how to treat?

[Danzano]

Hi Guys I have just had my loan approved for a 2013 LAMS ER6NL 33kW

Couple of questions

This will be my first ever new bike and also the first bike im getting on for the past 2 years after I entered full time work. So im clueless with a brand new bike. On all of the forums there are 10,000 theorys about how to treat a new bike what to do with it to get the best results etc. So my questions are mostly how should I break in the bike? and do tyres really take 150km to wear in properly?

The theorys I have seen so far are very vague and vary alot. The Kawasaki manual says 800km under 4000RPM then 1600km under 6000RPM so are they using loss tolerances or are they being conservative or spot on?

One popular theory break it in hard on a dyno with 3 oil changes 7 heat cycles and around 80km travel with varying loads and all gearing taken through the range what do you guys think of this?

The extreme dyno break in is said to give more HP and better compression the long way is said to give longer engine life because it lets the bearing etc self polish and therefore not get any micro scaring or tearing which is a risk with the harsh method apparently but then the harsh method people say new bearings dont need to self polish because of new manufacture techniques.

I have been reading as much as possible because the bike im buying I want to learn on so learners restricted then full and unrestrict it to 53kW and keep it. It will take 5years to pay off so how do I do what is best for the bike and protect the biggest investment in my life thus far.

Thanks guys for any replies and can't wait to get back into riding its been to long.

[nerrrd]

There's a LAMS ER6N?? Didn't realise that. How much are they asking for one?

Anyway, enjoy your new ride!

[speeding_ant]

Hi Guys I have just had my loan approved for a 2013 LAMS ER6N

Couple of questions

This will be my first ever new bike and also the first bike im getting on for the past 2 years after I entered full time work. So im clueless with a brand new bike. On all of the forums there are 10,000 theorys about how to treat a new bike what to do with it to get the best results etc. So my questions are mostly how should I break in the bike? and do tyres really take 150km to wear in properly?

The theorys I have seen so far are very vague and vary alot. The Kawasaki manual says 800km under 4000RPM then 1600km under 6000RPM so are they using loss tolerances or are they being conservative or spot on?

One popular theory break it in hard on a dyno with 3 oil changes 7 heat cycles and around 80km travel with varying loads and all gearing taken through the range what do you guys think of this?

The extreme dyno break in is said to give more HP and better compression the long way is said to give longer engine life because it lets the bearing etc self polish and therefore not get any micro scaring or tearing which is a risk with the harsh method apparently but then the harsh method people say new bearings dont need to self polish because of new manufacture techniques.

I have been reading as much as possible because the bike im buying I want to learn on so learners restricted then full and unrestrict it to 53kW and keep it. It will take 5years to pay off so how do I do what is best for the bike and protect the biggest investment in my life thus far.

Thanks guys for any replies and can't wait to get back into riding its been to long.

Best to follow the guidelines in the manual. If you're stuck with it for at least 5 years, you wouldn't want any nasty surprises. Unlikely to happen, but you never know. Might be a good idea to take it easy while you're getting used to a bike again too.

Or, just fang it and see what happens.

[BigAl]

I've had a few new bikes and always run them in easy, main thing is to vary revs and going over the suggested rev limits occaisionally will not hurt.

Modern tyres scrub in really quickly, just don't dump the clutch leaving the shop unless someone is filming.

Bike motors used to be bench run to redline for a few minutes before assembly, so a bit of a fang should not hurt.

[Glowerss]

Hi Guys I have just had my loan approved for a 2013 LAMS ER6N

Couple of questions

This will be my first ever new bike and also the first bike im getting on for the past 2 years after I entered full time work. So im clueless with a brand new bike. On all of the forums there are 10,000 theorys about how to treat a new bike what to do with it to get the best results etc. So my questions are mostly how should I break in the bike? and do tyres really take 150km to wear in properly?

The theorys I have seen so far are very vague and vary alot. The Kawasaki manual says 800km under 4000RPM then 1600km under 6000RPM so are they using loss tolerances or are they being conservative or spot on?

One popular theory break it in hard on a dyno with 3 oil changes 7 heat cycles and around 80km travel with varying loads and all gearing taken through the range what do you guys think of this?

The extreme dyno break in is said to give more HP and better compression the long way is said to give longer engine life because it lets the bearing etc self polish and therefore not get any micro scaring or tearing which is a risk with the harsh method apparently but then the harsh method people say new bearings dont need to self polish because of new manufacture techniques.

I have been reading as much as possible because the bike im buying I want to learn on so learners restricted then full and unrestrict it to 53kW and keep it. It will take 5years to pay off so how do I do what is best for the bike and protect the biggest investment in my life thus far.

Thanks guys for any replies and can't wait to get back into riding its been to long.

There's a LAMS ER6N?? Didn't realise that. How much are they asking for one?

Anyway, enjoy your new ride!

Sure isn't a LAMS ER6n according to the NZTA. And the ER6n Isn't LAMS approved. Aus has a LAMS Approved ER6nL or ER6fL, but none so far as I've heard or seen of here.

IF you did actually get a ER6nL or whatever, you might want to get it submitted to the NZTA prontoish, as currently it isn't on the LAMS list and you wouldn't be legal riding it.

Also, you might want to find out what it costs to "derestrict" it. Most of the time it takes a new ECU which can be quite pricey.

[pritch]

I think you are worrying too much. Do what the manual says.

Tyres: new tyres tend to be slippery. The manufacturers use silicone as a release agent to get the tyre out of the mould easily. A slippery motorcycle tyre is not a good thing. Take it carefully, you will be able to see the wear spead across the tyre. Too much lean too soon and you will likely be on yer ear.

This doesn't just apply to new bikes, it's every time you replace a tyre. I've now got two rides in on a new tyre, the chicken strips are getting smaller so it should soon be playtime...

And some new tyres are lethal in the rain, so it's best to scrub them in dry.

[nerrrd]

Sure isn't a LAMS ER6n. And the ER6n Isn't LAMS approved. Methinks somebody made a slight boo-boo and may be in for a disappointing shock.

There is a LAMS ER6N in Oz, maybe they're newly arrived in NZ?

As you were, just saw the rest of your post...

[Subike]

There's a LAMS ER6N?? Didn't realise that. How much are they asking for one?

Anyway, enjoy your new ride!

Sure isn't a LAMS ER6n. And the ER6n Isn't LAMS approved. Methinks somebody made a slight boo-boo and may be in for a disappointing shock.

The op did not say it was his first bike ever, just his first NEW bike.
Some time KBers reading skills have a bit to be desired.

Running in has many schools of thought.
Mine very first was to do a good 60k run, up to the road speed, and backing off to 80kph, varying the load on the motor.
To sit on a constant speed on a new motor could cause the bore to glaze, the result being an oil burner.
So for my first 300k, I varied the load on the engine as much as possibility, (hill work is good for this) without taking it into its higher rev range. At 300k, I drained the oil, and replaced the filter, I also cleaned the ait filter, and went over the entire engine chassis with spanners and sockets to check all bolts I has access to.
IAfter the 300k, I started doing constant speed trips till 1000k, but not taking the motor into its upper rev range,
Again at 1000k I changed the oil and filter.
From then I have just ridden it, 13000k in 8 mths from new. It burns no oil, quite happily buzzes away at the open road sped, plus for overtaking. And starts every time without the choke. This was over the last winter. Oh its just a Chinese 250 V twin, and it will if pushed hum up to 140kph. Bugger

[nerrrd]

Some time KBers reading skills have a bit to be desired.

Guilty as charged...

[FJRider]

Thanks guys for any replies and can't wait to get back into riding its been to long.

Theories, opinions, or facts ... ALL may vary.

What REALLY matters is ... you follow THEIR guidelines to maintain your warranty.

Entirely your choice though ...

[tigertim20]

just follow what it says in the manual - everyone else will have their theories, but its YOU that is forking out a large chunk of money here.
Follow the manual, being off the road for a couple years means youll probably want to take it easy for say 1600 kms anyway . . .

Get it, follow the manual, and enjoy!

[Glowerss]

The op did not say it was his first bike ever, just his first NEW bike.
Some time KBers reading skills have a bit to be desired.

Running in has many schools of thought.
Mine very first was to do a good 60k run, up to the road speed, and backing off to 80kph, varying the load on the motor.
To sit on a constant speed on a new motor could cause the bore to glaze, the result being an oil burner.
So for my first 300k, I varied the load on the engine as much as possibility, (hill work is good for this) without taking it into its higher rev range. At 300k, I drained the oil, and replaced the filter, I also cleaned the ait filter, and went over the entire engine chassis with spanners and sockets to check all bolts I has access to.
IAfter the 300k, I started doing constant speed trips till 1000k, but not taking the motor into its upper rev range,
Again at 1000k I changed the oil and filter.
From then I have just ridden it, 13000k in 8 mths from new. It burns no oil, quite happily buzzes away at the open road sped, plus for overtaking. And starts every time without the choke. This was over the last winter. Oh its just a Chinese 250 V twin, and it will if pushed hum up to 140kph. Bugger

The irony in your post is spectacular, sir. The OP EXPLICITLY states two things:

A) It's a LAMS bike, and

B) " have been reading as much as possible because the bike im buying I want to learn on so learners restricted then full and unrestrict it to 53kW and keep it. It will take 5years to pay off so how do I do what is best for the bike and protect the biggest investment in my life thus far. "

I suggest you read more carefully yourself there big fulla before accusing other people of the same thing

[FJRider]

... being off the road for a couple years means youll probably want to take it easy for say 1600 kms anyway . . .

Get it, follow the manual, and enjoy!

I've done more k's than that in a weekend. Less than 5 tanks of fuel. Not long to ride like a nana ...

[nerrrd]

Reading/written comprehension skills aside, they've sharpened up the styling nicely on the 2013 version (going by the pics on the Oz website.)

[Danzano]

There's a LAMS ER6N?? Didn't realise that. How much are they asking for one?

Anyway, enjoy your new ride!

Around $16000 but thats LAMS ABS 650 so I thought it's a solid investment they are only coming in this year though the LAMS ones and only if they are ordered in advance as far as I know.