Welding vs a new frame?

[nathanwhite]

So owing to a silly mistake, I have snapped my rear suspension link mount lug. I've been taking to Phil at metal doctors and he says he can stick it back on for $150 or so. however I have been looking around wreckers and found a (supposedly) straight frame for $250.

It's a cast aluminium frame and Phil has expressed concerns that putting the lug back on may render not as strong as when it was originally cast.

So is it worth dishing out extra to get a new frame vs welding the lug?
Also any way of measuring a frame to tell if it's straight?

[skippa1]

So owing to a silly mistake, I have snapped my rear suspension link mount lug. I've been taking to Phil at metal doctors and he says he can stick it back on for $150 or so. however I have been looking around wreckers and found a (supposedly) straight frame for $250.

It's a cast aluminium frame and Phil has expressed concerns that putting the lug back on may render not as strong as when it was originally cast.

So is it worth dishing out extra to get a new frame vs welding the lug?
Also any way of measuring a frame to tell if it's straight?


put it this way....you can save $100 and risk rear suspension failure which may cost your life, or spend an extra $100 and get a part that should be as good as the original. If you only value your life at $100 or less, then get it welded. Re measuring....dont know.

[carburator]

unfortunatly the upper suspenion mount on the SV650 ( presume thats the frame you have snapped )
does'nt allow for triangulation brackets. to spread the load into the frame as a aftermarket option.

from a engineers point of view, id always be dubious throwing a leg over the bike thats welded up
with no secondary way of reinforcement..

before you buy the newer frame Id get a weld crack testing kit ( three spray cans job ) and test the
lugs on the new frame before handing over yur money, if the wreaker doesn't like that idea walk away..

[schrodingers cat]

So owing to a silly mistake, I have snapped my rear suspension link mount lug. I've been taking to Phil at metal doctors and he says he can stick it back on for $150 or so. however I have been looking around wreckers and found a (supposedly) straight frame for $250.

It's a cast aluminium frame and Phil has expressed concerns that putting the lug back on may render not as strong as when it was originally cast.

So is it worth dishing out extra to get a new frame vs welding the lug?
Also any way of measuring a frame to tell if it's straight?

Yes there is. But the fact that you're asking means it will be a larbrorious task FOR YOU.

Essentially you need to ensure that:
Looking from the rear,
The rear axle centre line is parallel with the the swingarm pivot centreline
The steering head is perpendicular to the rear axle/swingarm centre line
THe steering head centre line is on the same centre line as the rear wheel centre line

You could piss around and check the steering head castor angle and height if you know the values.

You'll need a nice level pad to work on, good quality straight edges, levels and decent ruler/s. A plumb bob wouldn't hurt either

If you stick with what you have and tell your welder chappy to spend an extra hour making sure it is nice and beefy - lots of lovely preheat and a bit of gussetting you'll be back good as new only better and dealing with what you know.

[bogan]

Not sure if you've considered this (and fuck knows why I thought of it) but it'll drop the resale by a lot more than 100 if its welded up.

And I wouldn't fuck around with welding aluminium casting just to get it back to stock.

[nathanwhite]

put it this way....you can save $100 and risk rear suspension failure which may cost your life, or spend an extra $100 and get a part that should be as good as the original. If you only value your life at $100 or less, then get it welded. Re measuring....dont know.

Unless the replacement frame is also damaged. At which point I would have a snapped lug, and a disassembled bike


unfortunatly the upper suspenion mount on the SV650 ( presume thats the frame you have snapped )
does'nt allow for triangulation brackets. to spread the load into the frame as a aftermarket option.

from a engineers point of view, id always be dubious throwing a leg over the bike thats welded up
with no secondary way of reinforcement..


Thats exactly what I would be discussing with him, popping it back on is no problem, reinforcing it is.
What do you mean by upper? It's the link mount under the swingarm, I would have thought that was the lower mount?


Yes there is.

lots of measuring stuff

If you stick with what you have and tell your welder chappy to spend an extra hour making sure it is nice and beefy - lots of lovely preheat and a bit of gussetting you'll be back good as new only better and dealing with what you know.

This is what I'm thinking.


Not sure if you've considered this (and fuck knows why I thought of it) but it'll drop the resale by a lot more than 100 if its welded up.

And I wouldn't fuck around with welding aluminium casting just to get it back to stock.


Noted. I have no resale plans for the time being, possibly in the distant future, but not for another 6-10 years. (If something else doesn't brake in that time)

[bogan]

Noted. I have no resale plans for the time being, possibly in the distant future, but not for another 6-10 years. (If something else doesn't brake in that time)

You have an SV with no resale plans :confused: how long have you had it?

How did you snap it btw?

[nathanwhite]

You have an SV with no resale plans :confused: how long have you had it?

How did you snap it btw?

Since November.

I had already installed everything shock related and was about to start on the exhaust. I saw two washers still lying out that didn't fit the exhaust mounts. A quick look at the service manual said they were actually part of the suspension system. So I pulled it apart again and reassembled with the two washers in. I was getting close to the specified torque when the lug snapped.



Or should I just sell it and get a Bros? :bleh:

[BMWST?]

Since November.

I had already installed everything shock related and was about to start on the exhaust. I saw two washers still lying out that didn't fit the exhaust mounts. A quick look at the service manual said they were actually part of the suspension system. So I pulled it apart again and reassembled with the two washers in. I was getting close to the specified torque when the lug snapped.



Or should I just sell it and get a Bros? :bleh:

how do you know that apart from any prevoius damage that the lug on the other frame isnt already suspect...Do you know why it snapped,some thing was not in line,or in the right position right???

[bogan]

Or should I just sell it and get a Bros? :bleh:

No, they're all for me, find something else :2guns:

I often hear of people who think the SV is good at the time, then end up finding it too beige after a short while, so it might well be worth considering resale even if you currently don't think you'll sell it for 6 years or more...

[Drew]

So it snapped off the frame up by the seat/tank?

Weird. Did the two washers go between the shock and said mounting points by chance? Would explain why it snapped.

If it was a cast block, then welding it is the less desirable I think. But I'm no engineer.

I've been told by clever engineers not to have it done anyway. Ocean? Where the fuck you at?

[Karitane pete]

Won't you have to re vin and Reg if you use the other frame?

[nathanwhite]

how do you know that apart from any prevoius damage that the lug on the other frame isnt already suspect...Do you know why it snapped,some thing was not in line,or in the right position right???

On my frame it could have snapped from over tightening, overloading or have already been on the way out and I just helped it.
The other frame, I have no idea the condition of. I would assume from a bike wreckers, that a frame would be straight and not cracked, but that would be very hard to tell.



No, they're all for me, find something else :2guns:

I often hear of people who think the SV is good at the time, then end up finding it too beige after a short while, so it might well be worth considering resale even if you currently don't think you'll sell it for 6 years or more...

It's not the bike, it's everything else. I'm a student, so not going to be getting a bigger (more expensive) bike for a least 2 years. Then it's onto a job. At this point (provided stable decent income) my focus will shift to getting a house annnnd there goes all my money for ages.



So it snapped off the frame up by the seat/tank?

Weird. Did the two washers go between the shock and said mounting points by chance? Would explain why it snapped.

If it was a cast block, then welding it is the less desirable I think. But I'm no engineer.

I've been told by clever engineers not to have it done anyway. Ocean? Where the fuck you at?

No, it snapped down under the swingarm, where the linkage connects to the frame.
There is a bit of confusion over this. I think a picture would help.

277809


Won't you have to re vin and Reg if you use the other frame?

That was what I was wondering, what woluld it take to get the bike legal with a new frame. A lot of work it would seem.

[DEATH_INC.]

Have you got a pic?
Even without seeing it though, I'd still say I'd weld it. It still has one good one on the other side that will probably do the job on it's own anyway. As long as it's ground right out and done properly I doubt it'll be a problem. I'm pretty sure there will be places to reinforce it a bit with some extra weld too.
Most cast parts of the frame are welded to extruded bits somewhere, so we know they can be welded.
Why be scared of welding cast ali...it's already been melted once at least... <_<

edit: "look properly dick...there's a pic already."
Ok...I'd definitely weld it back together...looks like lotsa room for reinforcement. Though it'd be tempting to make a new bracket out of some flat instead...less likely to break again.

[Drew]

Yip, weld that shit. Because of the action pushing rather than pulling on that bit, it's gonna be fine.

[pete-blen]

Yip, weld that shit. Because of the action pushing rather than pulling on that bit, it's gonna be fine.

I have welded lots of cast alloy... It's main prob is it can be dirty shit..may have to weld twice..first time to burn the crap out..
then grind most of the weld out.. then re-weld...
I would toss that lug & make a new one from someting like 6061 sheet alloy that raps around the bar more to give more weld area..

[DEATH_INC.]

I have welded lots of cast alloy... It's main prob is it can be dirty shit..may have to weld twice..first time to burn the crap out..
then grind most of the weld out.. then re-weld... Me too. And agreed, I'd do the same.

I would toss that lug & make a new one from someting like 6061 sheet alloy that raps around the bar more to give more weld area..
Yep, I was thinking if you could make one from a bit of 90 deg angle, you could run a nice deep fillet top and bottom....

[nathanwhite]

Have you got a pic?
Even without seeing it though, I'd still say I'd weld it. It still has one good one on the other side that will probably do the job on it's own anyway. As long as it's ground right out and done properly I doubt it'll be a problem. I'm pretty sure there will be places to reinforce it a bit with some extra weld too.
Most cast parts of the frame are welded to extruded bits somewhere, so we know they can be welded.
Why be scared of welding cast ali...it's already been melted once at least... <_<

edit: "look properly dick...there's a pic already."
Ok...I'd definitely weld it back together...looks like lotsa room for reinforcement. Though it'd be tempting to make a new bracket out of some flat instead...less likely to break again.

I have a professional welder coming over today to sort out something to do with it. Cheers for the ideas.


Yip, weld that shit. Because of the action pushing rather than pulling on that bit, it's gonna be fine.

Isn't it more of an up/down thing?

ninja edit: I think its up/down but while it's being pushed in


I have welded lots of cast alloy... It's main prob is it can be dirty shit..may have to weld twice..first time to burn the crap out..
then grind most of the weld out.. then re-weld...
I would toss that lug & make a new one from someting like 6061 sheet alloy that raps around the bar more to give more weld area..

Again, something else to discuss with the welder, cheers!


Me too. And agreed, I'd do the same.

Yep, I was thinking if you could make one from a bit of 90 deg angle, you could run a nice deep fillet top and bottom....

I"m having a hard time picturing this.

[ducatilover]

Or should I just sell it and get a Bros? :bleh: This would be ideal :yes:


No, they're all for me, find something else :2guns: Oh no ya don't! I've got yer frame remember? And I'm goin to use it all for myself, it's being held ransom!


I often hear of people who think the SV is good at the time, then end up finding it too beige after a short while, so it might well be worth considering resale even if you currently don't think you'll sell it for 6 years or more...
Well, there's nothing "wrong" with an SV. They just become very, very boring :facepalm: I reckon if you had one with a decent sounding can and some sexy suspension (non-snapped) it'd be a great bike.

Won't you have to re vin and Reg if you use the other frame?
Just bog up the new chassis number and etch the old one in, then rivet the VIN plate from the old frame on :D
Totally legit... Well, it should be, it's the same fuggin frame money grabbing mumble mumble grrr

[bogan]

Oh no ya don't! I've got yer frame remember? And I'm goin to use it all for myself, it's being held ransom!

Well, I guess you can use it as a mirror for a little bit anyway...


Well, there's nothing "wrong" with an SV. They just become very, very boring :facepalm: I reckon if you had one with a decent sounding can and some sexy suspension (non-snapped) it'd be a great bike.

Exactly, they're like some sort of sneaky beige ninja (see what I did there), on paper is fine, so they sneak into your garage, then one day you wake up and bam, realise it's just too beige.


Just bog up the new chassis number and etch the old one in, then rivet the VIN plate from the old frame on :D
Totally legit... Well, it should be, it's the same fuggin frame money grabbing mumble mumble grrr

Legallity wise, I'm pretty sure modified frame/suspension mounts needs certing too...

[nathanwhite]

Well, there's nothing "wrong" with an SV. They just become very, very boring :facepalm:


As opposed to a crashed Kwaka, painstakingly rebuilt into a damn sexy machine but never gets ridden in favour of a GN?

Or said GN that will have a 1200 engine in it before the year is out because it's owner is a lunatic?

I like my twin thank you very much. :yes:



I reckon if you had one with a decent sounding can and some sexy suspension (non-snapped) it'd be a great bike.


Funny, I think the same thing. And I do have a sexy can and (semi)decent suspension on it



Just bog up the new chassis number and etch the old one in, then rivet the VIN plate from the old frame on :D
Totally legit... Well, it should be, it's the same fuggin frame money grabbing mumble mumble grrr

:shifty: doesn't sound too hard....

[ducatilover]

Well, I guess you can use it as a mirror for a little bit anyway.... I've been doing that :facepalm: fucker is a mission to do though




Exactly, they're like some sort of sneaky beige ninja (see what I did there), on paper is fine, so they sneak into your garage, then one day you wake up and bam, realise it's just too beige.
Bit like my CB400 then... damn that was a good bike.




Legallity wise, I'm pretty sure modified frame/suspension mounts needs certing too...


As opposed to a crashed Kwaka, painstakingly rebuilt into a damn sexy machine but never gets ridden in favour of a GN?

Or said GN that will have a 1200 engine in it before the year is out because it's owner is a lunatic?
Err... umm. I don't quite know what to say? The Kwaka gets used a wee bit currently :yes:






Funny, I think the same thing. And I do have a sexy can and (semi)decent suspension on it

Certainly a better bike than a Hyocunt.



:shifty: doesn't sound too hard.... Just don't tell anyone :D

[nathanwhite]

Legallity wise, I'm pretty sure modified frame/suspension mounts needs certing too...

Wat. Damn.





Err... umm. I don't quite know what to say? The Kwaka gets used a wee bit currently :yes:



Alright, never seems to get used. You know what I think I meant to say.




Certainly a better bike than a Hyocunt.



Agreed. It's just their salesmen are so friendly.

[manxkiwi]

At a guess I'd say the shock (or is it the linkage?) plus the two washers didn't fill the space correctly. Hence snapping off the mount before final torque was reached. If you get it fixed, I'd say you want to check the distance between the lugs and make sure it's a snug fit (possibly have a spacer/washer made to suit). Otherwise you may end up snapping the other (good) side off too!

[nathanwhite]

At a guess I'd say the shock (or is it the linkage?) plus the two washers didn't fill the space correctly. Hence snapping off the mount before final torque was reached. If you get it fixed, I'd say you want to check the distance between the lugs and make sure it's a snug fit (possibly have a spacer/washer made to suit). Otherwise you may end up snapping the other (good) side off too!

The linkage, where it mounts to the frame.

That's a very good thought with the spacers. I'll definately check that.

edit: Yep. Held the lug in place and put the linkage in between. About 2-3mm of movement sideways which is completely stopped by the two washers that go with that bolt.

[Drew]

Just to be a pedantic prick, the part that snapped off is the 'dogbone' mount. To those in the know anyway.

The linkages are the two flat plates that drop down from the swingarm, to the other end of said dogbone.

Might help save some confusion some time. Also handy if you are searching for a differently offset one to change the rate of shock speed rise...But ya really wanna know what you're doing before ya think about doing that.

[pete-blen]

Just to be a pedantic prick, the part that snapped off is the 'dogbone' mount. To those in the know anyway.

The linkages are the two flat plates that drop down from the swingarm, to the other end of said dogbone.

Might help save some confusion some time. :no::facepalm:


I thought the linkage was the bit the shock connected to & the dog bone
were the bits the connected the linkage to the swing arm... DOG BONES because they
look like dog bones...

just type "motorbike dog bones" into google and see what comes up...

[bogan]

:no::facepalm:


I thought the linkage was the bit the shock connected to & the dog bone
were the bits the connected the linkage to the swing arm... DOG BONES because they
look like dog bones...

just type "motorbike dog bones" into google and see what comes up...

Some bones connect to the swingarm, some to the frame; some thigh bones connect to the hips bones, and hip bones connect to the boning bone, wait, that might not be how it goes :blink:

Anyway, if he broke em by tightening it up, it probably isn't dog bones in plural, sometimes its just a single bone, and sometimes its the rocker link thingy (whatever its supposed to be called).

[carburator]

failing welding it just drill and tap the frame for a rose joint..

[kiwi cowboy]

The linkage, where it mounts to the frame.

That's a very good thought with the spacers. I'll definately check that.

edit: Yep. Held the lug in place and put the linkage in between. About 2-3mm of movement sideways which is completely stopped by the two washers that go with that bolt.

There's your answer to how it snaped i would guess.

You had tightened it up without the washers in and cracked it and diddnt realise untill you went to tighten it next time useing the washers and cos it was already cracked it snapped.

I would be giving the other side a good check to make sure thats not weakened.

[nathanwhite]

There's your answer to how it snaped i would guess.

You had tightened it up without the washers in and cracked it and diddnt realise untill you went to tighten it next time useing the washers and cos it was already cracked it snapped.

I would be giving the other side a good check to make sure thats not weakened.

Already have, looks good. Yea, if I'd cracked it the first time, then it's probably a good thing then that I redid it and it broke. Much better then it snapping on a bump at ~100kph 150km from home.

[FJRider]

Already have, looks good. Yea, if I'd cracked it the first time, then it's probably a good thing then that I redid it and it broke. Much better then it snapping on a bump at ~100kph 150km from home.

ANY structural welding on motorcycles (or any vehicle) requires Certification. And welding done by a certified welder (with appropriate paperwork) before a WoF is issued.

Chassis swap will (should) need a few forms fill in for registration purposes ... not usually a biggie. Just a hassle.

[ducatilover]

We could plop the SV motor in the GN?

[FJRider]

Already have, looks good. Yea, if I'd cracked it the first time, then it's probably a good thing then that I redid it and it broke. Much better then it snapping on a bump at ~100kph 150km from home.

150 metres from home at open road speed would not be pleasant .. and I doubt if it would end well.

[nathanwhite]

ANY structural welding on motorcycles (or any vehicle) requires Certification. And welding done by a certified welder (with appropriate paperwork) before a WoF is issued.

Chassis swap will (should) need a few forms fill in for registration purposes ... not usually a biggie. Just a hassle.

Could you elaborate please? If I'm going to do paperwork, I would like to know what exactly.


We could plop the SV motor in the GN?

No. Mine.


150 metres from home at open road speed would not be pleasant .. and I doubt if it would end well.

Theres a reason I'm getting a professional to do it. :yes:

[FJRider]

Could you elaborate please? If I'm going to do paperwork, I would like to know what exactly.



Basically ... the same process required for "Boyracer" modifications. Certification is NOT done at an NZTA station. You can ask where your nearest vehicle certifier is at the nearest testing station.

Your local structural engineering workshop will have Certified Welders ... and may help with the paper work.

[bogan]

Basically ... the same process required for "Boyracer" modifications. Certification is NOT done at an NZTA station. You can ask where your nearest vehicle certifier is at the nearest testing station.

Your local structural engineering workshop will have Certified Welders ... and may help with the paper work.

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/ easier to find em on that site I would think, not all that many do bike certs anyway. I'd be surprised if the welding approach is cheaper than just getting that second hand frame.

[Drew]

I'd just get the thing welded, and go for gold. I would expect it to never be picked up in a warrant test, nor even if it needed to be re vinned.

[bogan]

I'd just get the thing welded, and go for gold. I would expect it to never be picked up in a warrant test, nor even if it needed to be re vinned.

Yeh 'compliance' is overrated, for either approach...

[ducatilover]

I'd just get the thing welded, and go for gold. I would expect it to never be picked up in a warrant test, nor even if it needed to be re vinned.

If they can get enough weld on, I'd ride it.

I don't think a WoF testing station has looked at lower linkages on any of my bikes...

[Drew]

Yeh 'compliance' is overrated, for either approach...


If they can get enough weld on, I'd ride it.

I don't think a WoF testing station has looked at lower linkages on any of my bikes...


"enough weld on"? Woh woh woh, what are you even on about? Adding material (filler rod in Tig welding lingo), does not add any more strength to a weld.

I recently learnt this during a conversation with a real bloody clever engineer.

So long as the welder is good, and will give assurance that shit aint gonna break off, I'd be happy as a clam to ride it. Wouldn't effect my decision to buy it if I were in the market either.

[ducatilover]

"enough weld on"? Woh woh woh, what are you even on about? Adding material (filler rod in Tig welding lingo), does not add any more strength to a weld.

I recently learnt this during a conversation with a real bloody clever engineer.

So long as the welder is good, and will give assurance that shit aint gonna break off, I'd be happy as a clam to ride it. Wouldn't effect my decision to buy it if I were in the market either.

:facepalm: yeah, but I know nothing, so I'd ride it anyway

[pete-blen]

"enough weld on"? Woh woh woh, what are you even on about? Adding material (filler rod in Tig welding lingo), does not add any more strength to a weld.

I recently learnt this during a conversation with a real bloody clever engineer.

So long as the welder is good, and will give assurance that shit aint gonna break off, I'd be happy as a clam to ride it. Wouldn't effect my decision to buy it if I were in the market either.

So a 25mm long weld has the same strength as a 50mm long weld...:confused:
I think the idea was to make the weld longer... not build up metal in the same place...

Every welder you meet will assure you that there welding won't break....
I have only ever seen one broken weld... That was on a 90ton impact press..
But have seen heaps where the metal right beside the weld has broken..

[katben]

my 2 cents worth, based largely on my experience with push bike frames

don't do waste of time, if its broke by the weld once, it will just happen again, you can't weld and not create a weld affected (heated) area

bite the bullet buy the "new" frame it will cost you a little more upfront but it will probably save you untold hassles (and regret) in the future

[katben]

It's a cast aluminium frame and Phil has expressed concerns that putting the lug back on may render not as strong as when it was originally cast.



just re read your original post

and although the situation is different to what I thought, the piece was organically cast, and not lugs welded on, I still say the same thing

buy a frame, if the guy doing the welding is saying that, he's pretty much telling you not to do it, it won't work

if you do end up getting it welded, please don't sell me your bike ;)

[Drew]

So a 25mm long weld has the same strength as a 50mm long weld...:confused:
I think the idea was to make the weld longer... not build up metal in the same place...

Every welder you meet will assure you that there welding won't break....
I have only ever seen one broken weld... That was on a 90ton impact press..
But have seen heaps where the metal right beside the weld has broken..

Na, once again I have once again over abbreviated what I meant.

I mean that a big thick weld is often no stronger than a decent thin line. It's all about penetration with minimum heat as far as what I got the guy. He wasn't talking about his welds, we were discussing the welding on my Sidecar.

[nathanwhite]

Basically ... the same process required for "Boyracer" modifications. Certification is NOT done at an NZTA station. You can ask where your nearest vehicle certifier is at the nearest testing station.

Your local structural engineering workshop will have Certified Welders ... and may help with the paper work.


http://www.lvvta.org.nz/ easier to find em on that site I would think, not all that many do bike certs anyway. I'd be surprised if the welding approach is cheaper than just getting that second hand frame.

Ta. Will look into this.


I'd just get the thing welded, and go for gold. I would expect it to never be picked up in a warrant test, nor even if it needed to be re vinned.



I don't think a WoF testing station has looked at lower linkages on any of my bikes...

This is pretty much what I'm thinking. Don't point it out and feign ignorance if they find it. :shifty:



just re read your original post

and although the situation is different to what I thought, the piece was organically cast, and not lugs welded on, I still say the same thing

buy a frame, if the guy doing the welding is saying that, he's pretty much telling you not to do it, it won't work

if you do end up getting it welded, please don't sell me your bike ;)

Well having talked to him in person now and discussed different ways of reinforcing the piece, he is happy that it will be strong enough to cope. As Drew(?) pointed out, the action on the piece is pushing it back into the frame, not trying to tear it off.

Are you in the market for a midsize twin? Y'cant have it, but I do have a small naked that'll be up for grabs in a week or so. :bleh:

[nathanwhite]

Hahaha, this thread has had over 500 views. So I reckon that's at least 200 people who, if in the market for an SV in the next 6 years or so will be checking the rear suspension for aftermarket welding.

:laugh: :facepalm:

[nathanwhite]

So the lug has been welded back on very nice and snug

278101

278102

Phil was confident that just having welded in a fair bit of material around the crack would be enough. For my peace of mind however I got him to put in the big triangular piece on the top.

[jonbuoy]

Hahaha, this thread has had over 500 views. So I reckon that's at least 200 people who, if in the market for an SV in the next 6 years or so will be checking the rear suspension for aftermarket welding.

:laugh: :facepalm:

As long as its done properly it wouldn´t bother me. Key word is "done properly". A good welder would probably take more time and attention to getting it right than is ever done when manufacturers weld frame parts together.

[nathanwhite]

As long as its done properly it wouldn´t bother me. Key word is "done properly". A good welder would probably take more time and attention to getting it right than is ever done when manufacturers weld frame parts together.

He did put a lot of time and attention into it. Only possible issue now is that the whole frame cannot be heat treated like it is at the manufacturers.

[nzspokes]

He did put a lot of time and attention into it. Only possible issue now is that the whole frame cannot be heat treated like it is at the manufacturers.

That would depend on the grade of alloy and if you can be arsed pulling the bike right apart.

[ducatilover]

I'd ride on that :Punk:

[nathanwhite]

That would depend on the grade of alloy and if you can be arsed pulling the bike right apart.

Nope. If I was going that far, it would be either a new frame or for some reason like powdercoating the current one