Dyno Day at Red Baron (Saturday 29th)

[R6_kid]

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=612&day=2005-10-29 - NAMES HERE PLEASE

Alright then... put your money where your mouth is and find out how many ponies your bike is pushing out of the rear wheel.

This is a preliminary scan for interest, the shop will be open from 9am-2pm I believe and rate of work is approx 3 bikes an hour.

This will be base runs only unless more space becomes available.

So far i know that SuperDave, tristank, swanman and myself are keen on it.


Cost will be around $30 per bike but may be less. I will be getting one bulk cheque so will have to split the cost evenly between those that show.

I will leave it until Tuesday and those that have up their names down will get preferential treatment (if you dont put your name down you will probably have to pay the flat rate of $35 per run).

Also there will most likely be a BBQ on so we can keep ourselves fed when we arent watching the wheels spinning.

Soooo get your name on here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=612&day=2005-10-29) and i will sort it all out asap

[N4CR]

Only problem for me - I realised is that it's my first race day... what about making it this weekend. Too soon though eh :mellow:

I just put my zx9r zorst on - means the bike actually moves under 10,000rpm LOL. don't mention the wheelspin I got when it hit the power band coming home O_o

[R6_kid]

Only problem for me - I realised is that it's my first race day... [/size]

race day? wtf...

[N4CR]

The puke race day is on sat 29th, so a fair amount of people who can't get off work will be on that, IF it's sunny ;)

[SuperDave]

Hell yeah I'm keen. I'm really interested in seeing how much HP my engine puts considering its Kms.

[Madmax]

:wacko: will not have enough km on the new shells but may be put the xtra
kms over the weekend, they put the engine together so they may be
interested :devil2:

[SARGE]

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=612&day=2005-10-29 - NAMES HERE PLEASE

Alright then... put your money where your mouth is and find out how many ponies your bike is pushing out of the rear wheel.

This is a preliminary scan for interest, the shop will be open from 9am-2pm I believe and rate of work is approx 3 bikes an hour.

This will be base runs only unless more space becomes available.

So far i know that SuperDave, tristank, swanman and myself are keen on it.


Cost will be around $30 per bike but may be less. I will be getting one bulk cheque so will have to split the cost evenly between those that show.

I will leave it until Tuesday and those that have up their names down will get preferential treatment (if you dont put your name down you will probably have to pay the flat rate of $35 per run).

Also there will most likely be a BBQ on so we can keep ourselves fed when we arent watching the wheels spinning.

Soooo get your name on here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=612&day=2005-10-29) and i will sort it all out asap



dont think i'll be there... BWAHAHAHAHAH


RB's dyno dont measure torque.. only RWHP.. for a ral Dyno... go see the fellas at AMPS.. full on Dynojet system.. tell you how much pressure you got in your tires


(postscript - high km bikes REALLY need to be carefull on a chassis dyno.. watched RB smoke a motor on a bike when i worked there )

[Motu]

I love to watch the bike owners on a dyno day - you can tell who's bike is on as the colour drains from their face and the knees start to wobble.You need a big no nonsense guy on the dyno....

[dveus]

The puke race day is on sat 29th, so a fair amount of people who can't get off work will be on that, IF it's sunny ;)

Open testing day. Won't be any racing going on.

[SuperDave]

(postscript - high km bikes REALLY need to be carefull on a chassis dyno.. watched RB smoke a motor on a bike when i worked there )

Could you please elaborate on that one a bit. What do I need to be carefull of? If a bike does have high Km's what should one do then? Thanks

[SARGE]

Could you please elaborate on that one a bit. What do I need to be carefull of? If a bike does have high Km's what should one do then? Thanks



high KM bike + redline for 30 seconds = large pile of scrap metal.

bike should be well warmed up before the pull... not much else you can do.. up to the operator really.. hope its Geoff doing the runs

[justsomeguy]

What are the benefits of dynoing a bike??

Educational reply please:niceone:

[Back Fire]

What are the benefits of dynoing a bike??

Educational reply please:niceone:

wank factor.....

[pyrocam]

yeah I think Ill get mine at amps.


What are the benefits of dynoing a bike??

Educational reply please:niceone:

and you can get more HP outof it if its not perfectly tuned



nothing like more hitpoints on yer bike.

[Motu]

What are the benefits of dynoing a bike??

Educational reply please:niceone:

You get to pull your engine down and find out what happens when little bits of metal part company with other bits of metal and go for an unguided journey though your engine.

Very educational.

[SuperDave]

The reason I think it's worth a go is because everyone puts down bikes that have high kms saying that they are low on power etc. Thought it might be interseting to see what my bikes power rating is as its getting along Km wise.

But in light of what Sarge said and the risk of blowing the engine it might not be worth it. Does one have to redline the bike though? I don't see the point of that as the maximum power the bike puts out is not at the redline but between 14k and 18k, that's 1.5k off my redline, so why would one want to redline it on a dyno?

[SARGE]

What are the benefits of dynoing a bike??

Educational reply please:niceone:


i use the dyno to tune out the flat spots.. pull, tweek, pull, tweek some more.. etc..


RB's Dyno dont read RPM though so its not ideal.. more bling wank factor than actual useful tool.. want a true run.. use AMPS

[justsomeguy]

You get to pull your engine down and find out what happens when little bits of metal part company with other bits of metal and go for an unguided journey though your engine.

Very educational.

That's what I thought - unless you are trying to fine tune a race engine which you think will let you win a race, is there any reason to go near a dyno??

Wont a simple seat of the pants/ gut feel tell you how the bike is?? The gut feel could come from an experienced bike mechanic of course.

[justsomeguy]

i use the dyno to tune out the flat spots.. pull, tweek, pull, tweek some more.. etc..


RB's Dyno dont read RPM though so its not ideal.. more bling wank factor than actual useful tool.. want a true run.. use AMPS

Nice of you to be so candidly honest Sarge - instead of spinelessly praising Colemans:niceone:

[N4CR]

Open testing day. Won't be any racing going on.

Sorry I'm meaning turn up and race day.. not race lol.

My bad. (I have never been to the track to race).

If we all goto the dyno I might just wait for another track day then.

[SARGE]

The reason I think it's worth a go is because everyone puts down bikes that have high kms saying that they are low on power etc. Thought it might be interseting to see what my bikes power rating is as its getting along Km wise.

But in light of what Sarge said and the risk of blowing the engine it might not be worth it. Does one have to redline the bike though? I don't see the point of that as the maximum power the bike puts out is not at the redline but between 14k and 18k, that's 1.5k off my redline, so why would one want to redline it on a dyno?


even at 80% of redline, the higher km bikes will strain hard. ( valves / cams are worn.. timing chain, etc.. if you float a valve on a hi rpm run and it impacts the piston..or snap a retainer and drop a valve into the chamber, or if your timing chain gives up and the valve/ piston interfaces..turns your baby into a doorstop for a few months..

if its been 20000 km since your last valve adjustment.. i wouldnt go for it personally

the idea of a dyno is to graph your bike's output over its rev range.. cant do a 1/2 pull and get results that mean alot.. if you tell the operator to " only take it to 9000" .. he's gonna refuse to do the pull or ignore you completely and give it death.

[SARGE]

Nice of you to be so candidly honest Sarge - instead of spinelessly praising Colemans:niceone:


i wont be spineless when i pull yours out and hang it on my coatrack you little Monkey-lookin motherfucker

:love:

[SuperDave]

Thanks for explaining it a bit more Sarge, it makes more sense now. So I'm correct in understanding that its the bike sitting on or very close to the redline for about 30 secs that fucks it up, not just coming to the redline? The reason I ask this is that I've ridden the bike pretty hard taking it close to the redline in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th but it never sat at the redline for too long. I think I'm gonna give this dyno thing a miss, rather spend the money on a trackday at Puke!

[SARGE]

These sorts of things are a great spectator sport. Then ride of happily on your un dynoed bike while the others phone there mates for a lift home.


previous Dyno Days there .. they made you sign a waiver.. not responsible if your engine shits itself.. we launch your bike through the concrete wall.. etc

[SARGE]

You see this is why you get a hard time sometimes JSG.. unnessaceray comment. Sarge is a good guy, and of course he will praise the place he works.. thats why he works there.



no i work there to support my habits....



food, shelter, Marlboros, lady boys and race fuel

[justsomeguy]

You see this is why you get a hard time sometimes JSG.. unnessaceray comment. Sarge is a good guy, and of course he will praise the place he works.. thats why he works there.

Go back to sleep SM - your constant sleep deprivation is clouding your judgement.

Sarge praises whoever does the best job he is honest and objective- he never gives praise where it's not worth unlike the traditional salespeople (bunch of wankers they all are - yeah used to be in sales myself)

[justsomeguy]

i wont be spineless when i pull yours out and hang it on my coatrack you little Monkey-lookin motherfucker

:love:

So you saying you need my spine to not be spineless?? So you're now spineless then?? Hmm - told you to ease it on those Malboroughs........


tubby bitch

[N4CR]

even at 80% of redline, the higher km bikes will strain hard. ( valves / cams are worn.. timing chain, etc.. if you float a valve on a hi rpm run and it impacts the piston..or snap a retainer and drop a valve into the chamber, or if your timing chain gives up and the valve/ piston interfaces..turns your baby into a doorstop for a few months..

if its been 20000 km since your last valve adjustment.. i wouldnt go for it personally

the idea of a dyno is to graph your bike's output over its rev range.. cant do a 1/2 pull and get results that mean alot.. if you tell the operator to " only take it to 9000" .. he's gonna refuse to do the pull or ignore you completely and give it death.

Hmm... so sitting at max speed and just shy of redline on my bike for a long time in 5th gear (eg off the clock loving) is quite similar to a dyno run then? I have had my valve clearances done about 4000kms ago so they have pretty much bedded in or whatever it is called.

'Wonders if it will blow up'.....

[SARGE]

Thanks for explaining it a bit more Sarge, it makes more sense now. So I'm correct in understanding that its the bike sitting on or very close to the redline for about 30 secs that fucks it up, not just coming to the redline? The reason I ask this is that I've ridden the bike pretty hard taking it close to the redline in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th but it never sat at the redline for too long. I think I'm gonna give this dyno thing a miss, rather spend the money on a trackday at Puke!


i take my FJ to redline once in awhile.. of course thats only 10,000 but its quite impressive at that RPM.. that dont hurt them ( much) but i am pedantic with maintenance, my engine is balanced and blueprinted.. lightweight valves and HD retainers. a redline for more than a few seconds on a bike without that kind of attention (esp with some km's on th clock) is more likely to shit its valvetrain.

im gonna go with Alloy short-throw con-rods and forged long skirt pistons next time the old girl gets pulled down.. next summer prolly.. then ill REALLY get some revs


she's still a slow old garbage scow though .... :whistle:

[SARGE]

So you saying you need my spine to not be spineless?? So you're now spineless then?? Hmm - told you to ease it on those Malboroughs........


tubby bitch


looks like theres some Indian on the menu this week

get in me belly!!

[SARGE]

Good to see someone knows what a scow is.
Bet ya nobody here (except Motu old fart) knows about scows and how they plied their trade on Aucklands upper harbour for many years. You can still find one out and about.. it does tours from the Maritime museum in the Viaduct. It called the Ted Ashby. It wasnt a garbage scow I dont think.. used to bring supplies up to riverhead from Aucland.


i had my wedding reception on that boat .. 30 VERY pissed frinds of the Mrs( i didnt know anyone yet so i spent the night sitting in the rigging with a bottle of scotch..)

[The Stranger]

wank factor.....
Odd that you would find knowledge and accuracy a wank.

Personally I find unsubstantiated claims of my [insert bike] is faster than a Hayabusa 0 to 100 and on the quarter mile a bigger wank.

[SARGE]

Typical lean conditions:
- poor acceleration - feels flat
- Engine doesn't respond when throttle is snapped open - picks up speed as throttle is closed
- Engine runs hot, knocks, pings and overheats (end result- hole in piston)
- Engine surges or "hunts" when cruising at part throttle
- Popping/ spitting through carb when throttle is opened, or popping and spitting through pipe on deceleration with a closed throttle (classic lean pilot circuit symptoms)
- Engine runs better in warm weather, worse in cool
- Performance gets worse when the air filter is removed

Typical Rich Conditions
- Acceleration is flat, uneven
- Engine will "8 stroke" as it loads up and skips combustion cycles
- Throttle needs to be opened continuously to maintain acceleration
- Engine works better when cold
- Black smoke from the tail pipe
- Poor fuel economy
- Engine performance improves when air cleaner is removed
- If the pilot screw is overly rich, idle is rough and the engine won't return to idle without blipping the throttle
- Black sooty plugs, sooty exhaust pipe

Here's some tips, old wives' tales and cute remarks:
- If the bike pulls hard, idles, doesn't smoke, detonate or punch holes through the piston - ride it
- If the bike pulls and the plugs are not blistering white - leave it alone
- If you install a new exhaust system or air filters, go up two sizes on the main right of the bat - then evaluate
- If you encounter mid-range detonation, try raising the needle one clip

Float height (AKA fuel level & how to..)
To get best low end power, set float height so that the engine will accept full throttle in 2nd gear from 2.5k to 3k rpm at minimum. Float heights, unless otherwise specified in the installation guide, are measured from the "gasket surface" of the carb body to the highest part of the top of the float - with the float tang touching but not compressing the float valve spring.

A. If the engine has a "wet" rhythmic, soggy area at full throttle / 3k-4k rpm, that gets worse as the engine heats up, lower the fuel level by resetting the float height 1mm greater (if the original was 13mm - go to 14mm).
This will lower the fuel level, making full throttle / 2k-3k rpm leaner.

B. If the engine is "dry" and flat between 2k to 3k rpm, raise the fuel level. Example: change float height from 15mm to 14mm to richen up that area.

REMEMBER, since the main jet WILL affect low speed operation, the MAIN JET has to be within 1 or 2 sizes of correct before final float setting. Warning: If the engine is left with the fuel level too high, the engine may foul plugs on the street and will be "soft" and boggy at part throttle operation. Adjust Floats to raise/ lower the Fuel Level.

Base settings are usually given if a particular application has a history of fuel level criticalness. The Fuel level height in the float bowl affects full throttle/low rpm and, also, richness or leanness at cruise/low rpm. Reference: a bike that runs cleanly at small throttle openings when cold, but starts to show signs of richness as it heats up to full operating temperature, will usually be leaned out enough to be correct if the fuel level is LOWERED 1mm. Check out and RESET all: Suzuki (all), Yamaha (all) and Kawasaki (if low speed problems occur). Needless to say, FUEL LEVEL IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!!!

If there are low end richness problems, even after lowering the fuel level much more than 1.5mm from our initial settings, also check for needle wear and needle jet (part of the emulsion tube). It is VERY common for the brass needle jets (in the top of the "emulsion tube") in 36mm, 38mm and 40mm Mikuni CV carbs to wear out in as little as 5,000 miles. Check them for "oblong" wear - the needle jet orifice starts out round!

Tuning the leanness out

The backfiring indicates air/fuel mixture or pilot jet leaness. I'd start with the idling mixture as it's the easiest and cheapest.

Manufacturers specs are normally one and a half turns out from the slightly seated position - don't force the screw it's got a taper on the screw you're turning as well as in the carb.


Start the engine and get it to working temp. Light a cigarette or whatever
you smoke as you'll be busy from here on. You'll be letting the engine run
for a while so do it outside where there's air circulation or put a fan on
the engine and put the beers within reach.

Adjust the idling speed to the spec or to where you can hear it's running at
a constant speed (the idling speed is adjusted by hand by turning the brass
screw with the spring on it sticking out of the back of the carb).

Now turn the pilot screw out one quarter from the manufacturers spec. If the
engine speed drops, return the screw to where it was and turn it in one
quarter. If the engine speed drops, you're OK (and I'm OK). Drink the beer.
Don't go for a test ride after the beer.

If the engine speed increases as you turn the screw out, keep going until
you reach the point of max RPM. If it takes more than 3 turns for the engine
speed to level off, the pilot jet is too large. Install a leaner one. This
will probably not be your scenario.

If the engine speed increases as you turn the screw in, keep going until it
levels off. If the pilot screw ends up less than half a turn open, the pilot
jet is too small.

Trick : When you've found the peak idle speed, turn the mixture screw in one
quarter turn. If it doesn't change the idle speed leave it there. If it does
drop, return it to the last setting

[Motu]

Good to see someone knows what a scow is.
Bet ya nobody here (except Motu old fart) knows about scows and how they plied their trade on Aucklands upper harbour for many years. You can still find one out and about.. it does tours from the Maritime museum in the Viaduct. It called the Ted Ashby. It wasnt a garbage scow I dont think.. used to bring supplies up to riverhead from Aucland.

Used to watch Subrizky's scows ply the Tamaki Estuary when I was a kid at Bucklands Beach,my grandmother lived on The Parade - we thought they were pirate ships because they had rat lines...never saw a sail on them though....or a Skull and Crossbones.

I put my XLV750 on a dyno before and after my exhaust change to see if they changed the power (no) A run up to the red line in each gear,30 secs max,the bike had done 90,000km and I rode it harder than that everytime I got on it.Have faith in your bike....or don't.

[The Stranger]

dont think i'll be there... BWAHAHAHAHAH

RB's dyno dont measure torque.. only RWHP.. for a ral Dyno... go see the fellas at AMPS.. full on Dynojet system.. tell you how much pressure you got in your tires


All dynos measure torque and use this to calculate the horsepower.
Horsepower=Torque*RPM/5252 thus if any 2 variable are known the other can be calculated.

You may note that on all dyno runs showing both torque and horsepower the lines converge at 5252 RPM.

[SARGE]

All dynos measure torque and use this to calculate the horsepower.
Horsepower=Torque*RPM/5252 thus if any 2 variable are known the other can be calculated.

You may note that on all dyno runs showing both torque and horsepower the lines converge at 5252 RPM.



RB's Dyno DOES NOT display torque and it reads in Ps, not HP

[The Stranger]

RB's Dyno DOES NOT display torque and it reads in Ps, not HP

Not doubting you at all.

However as a conversion factor was posted here a while ago to convert PS to HP, which if I recollect corectly was extreemly close anyway, it is still a simple matter to calculate the torque figures

And my appologies but I assumed that the HP in RWHP that stood for horse power.

[SARGE]

Not doubting you at all.

However as a conversion factor was posted here a while ago to convert PS to HP, which if I recollect corectly was extreemly close anyway, it is still a simple matter to calculate the torque figures

And my appologies but I assumed that the HP in RWHP that stood for horse power.



you need to have RPM figs available to calculate torque from HP.. again .. something RB's dyno does not display


T = HP x 5252

N


T = Torque (LbFt)
HP = Horsepower
N = Speed (rpm)

[The Stranger]

You win!
Yes you do need the RPM figure and if they can't provide this on a chart or grid I wont be attending.

[avgas]

Saph will have to wait for the next one.... got too much on my plate this next month

[SARGE]

You win!
Yes you do need the RPM figure and if they can't provide this on a chart or grid I wont be attending.


i have some old pulls on my FJ laying around ..i'll see if i can scan one somehow and post it .. no RPM grid.. you can call Gio over at RB and ask to see a few also (although he is a bit grumpy lately.)

[Motu]

In the real world of a spring brake dyno with a big dial and clipboard - Horsepower is not measured and does not exist,it is calculated from torque and rpm readings.In our world of computer chips it's all done for us and is printed out in a coloured graph.

You can also get a cheap road dyno - you make a run and download the data into your computer along with your vehicle weight,tyre size and gearing,the results are very comparable to the Dynotune inertia dyno readings.Instead of spinning up a roller of known weight - you spin up your bike or car,and feed in it's specs.Cheap too.

[SARGE]

In the real world of a spring brake dyno with a big dial and clipboard - Horsepower is not measured and does not exist,it is calculated from torque and rpm readings.In our world of computer chips it's all done for us and is printed out in a coloured graph.

You can also get a cheap road dyno - you make a run and download the data into your computer along with your vehicle weight,tyre size and gearing,the results are very comparable to the Dynotune inertia dyno readings.Instead of spinning up a roller of known weight - you spin up your bike or car,and feed in it's specs.Cheap too.


Beltronics makes a basic unit ( http://www.beltronics.com/fx.html ), as does Escort ( http://www.crutchfield.com/S-A9viQf0oheH/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=223450&I=036GT2 )

[Lou Girardin]

high KM bike + redline for 30 seconds = large pile of scrap metal.

bike should be well warmed up before the pull... not much else you can do.. up to the operator really.. hope its Geoff doing the runs

30 bloody seconds? Were they trying to make it go pop?
All a dyno run needs is a quick squirt up to the limiter, then back off.
I guess there's technicians, then there's butchers.

[R6_kid]

lol, this one really took off. Basically the idea behind it was to be able to say "my {insert bike name} has XXX.XX hp at XXXXXrpm."

I am planning on getting my bike tuned later on in the year at AMPS when i have some dosh spare. After all i am running a dynajet kit so it pays to go to the people with the right equipment to do th setup.

[TwoSeven]

If I'm going to go near a dyno, there are the basic readings that need and I only tend to use dynojet dynos (personal preference is the 250).

The bike needs to be warmed up - so should be showing at least 80C water temp (or whatever the correct temp is for your machine). No point in going near the dyno if it isnt. Many bikes have special warm up procedures, pays to go thru them.

I expect the operator to do a couple of runs first, these are likely to be 4th gear or something. They are generally calibration runs.

I then do a gas analysis (air/fuel) run, showing all throttle settings - its needed to tell me about the power characteristics and any tuning I could do - for example jetting. I might do this in each gear, and I might also ask for different loads to be simulated.

Ideally I like to get a run done in each gear (rpm vs power). Its important to do it in each gear and use the same scale. I use these to work out your gearing and shift/gear change points (learning how to create overlap charts is important). For me, when I run a bike up - this is the most important one I need. It literally tells me how to ride the bike.

I like to also do a throttle response test as well from different throttle positions, but its only important if you are fine tuning a carb. To me, ballpark is good enough, I can tell often from the engine sound, if there is lag or over-run that obvious, then I'll take a look at the carbs more closely.

Also, take a memory stick and ask for the runfiles. You can use a dynojet reader to examine different info - you pay for the data, so may as well use it.

Finally remember that these type of dyno's are for tuning the whole bike (including final drive), not the engine. If you want to do specialist engine tuning, really should mount the engine in an engine dyno that runs off the crank or front sprocket (yes, there is a difference between a chassis dyno and engine dyno).

Thats my tuppence.

For show and go days, really you probably just want an all gear run done so you have an idea what the bike is doing - rpm, torque and power are good enough. A good dyno shop will take the time to explain the readings to you as well. Especially if they have taken readings from other bikes that are the same make/model/year.

[White trash]

Firstly, I wouldn't give Red Baron the steam off my shit.

Secondly, anyone who throws thirty bucks at a Dyno operator just to see what number the computer spits out after their bike's spun a roller, has just chucked thirty bucks away.

You're gonna do that, give me the money, I need it.

[Ixion]

Good to see someone knows what a scow is.
Bet ya nobody here (except Motu old fart) knows about scows and how they plied their trade on Aucklands upper harbour for many years. You can still find one out and about.. it does tours from the Maritime museum in the Viaduct. It called the Ted Ashby. It wasnt a garbage scow I dont think.. used to bring supplies up to riverhead from Aucland.

My great grandfather (and his father) used to skipper one of those. And Mrs Ixion's great grandfather another.

And my great great great grandparents, and their parents (I think - plus or minus a great) used to build them up at Mahurangi . Logged the kauri behind the harbour , bullocked it down to the foreshore and built it into boats on the beach.

The Ted Ashby was a very late scow. The scows were a distinctively New Zealand design but there were also a lot of local built and skippered vessels of more traditional type (barks, schooners, brigs etc) plying the waters in the old days.

There would be very few people now who can remember masted ships tied up down by the lighter basin

[Ixion]

The Ted Ashby is a replica, built to the old methods and plans.. but with todays MSA requirements built in too.


Ah, OK. A replica of a very late scow.

[Motu]

There used to be an old abandoned scow on Blackpool Beach when I lived on Waiheke Island,used to go for a walk when the tide was out and let the kids clamber about over it.Very wierd construction,a hell of a lot of what you would take as redundant timber,they were built very strong as a shallow draft flat bottom boat that would be grounded on the beach and them over loaded and floated off.A scow was a real boat.

[White trash]

I might do this in each gear, and I might also ask for different loads to be simulated.

.

Explain to me, if you will, how you can simulate different loads on a rolling road dyno?

[Ixion]

There used to be an old abandoned scow on Blackpool Beach when I lived on Waiheke Island,used to go for a walk when the tide was out and let the kids clamber about over it.Very wierd construction,a hell of a lot of what you would take as redundant timber,they were built very strong as a shallow draft flat bottom boat that would be grounded on the beach and them over loaded and floated off.A scow was a real boat.

Yeah. They'd run them aground just after high tide, let them sit as the tide went out, then shovel them full of shingle, load them with cattle , whatever. Then wait for the rising tide to float them off.

Not pretty boats but real workers. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I prefer their looks to the floating gin palaces of today. Honest proletarian vessels, doing an honest days work for an honest days pay. Like the men that crewed them.

The William Daldy is another honest old boat . Auckland harbour Board steam tug, does excursion runs around Auckland harbour. Anyone who gets the chance, it's a REALLY good outing for anyone with a love of machinery.

[TLDV8]

The William C Daldy is another honest old boat . Auckland harbour Board steam tug, does excursion runs around Auckland harbour. Anyone who gets the chance, it's a REALLY good outing for anyone with a love of machinery.

Triple expansion boilers..one of my last jobs at Titan Marine was to bulldoze some new ribs for the William C Daldy when the hull plates were being replaced as sections.

[R6_kid]

alright you swines stop stealing my thread!!!

I will be taking a final list at 9am on Tuesday so if you arent in by then you will probably be missing out!

So make sure you get your name on the list (see first post in thread for link)

[White trash]

Honest proletarian vessels, doing an honest days work for an honest days pay. Like the men that crewed them.

Save it for www.boring_old_boats.com/forums grandad! This here thread's about raping the shit outta ya sports bike on a dyno.

[R6_kid]

Save it for www.boring_old_boats.com/forums grandad! This here thread's about raping the shit outta ya sports bike on a dyno.

cheers ya funny cunt! Gonna steal your neighbours bike again and come along?

[bugjuice]

i'll pop by.. probably check out my bike too.. if I'm not needed at Puke for MR..

[TwoSeven]

Explain to me, if you will, how you can simulate different loads on a rolling road dyno?

Ask if they have the load simulation package installed I guess.

[R6_kid]

This is the list at current? I also have one person extra via PM, if you want to have your name added you need to post here before Midday today or you will miss out.

gareth_d
tristank
SuperDave
Slingshot
swanman
FROSTY
Avignon
limmy
Madguitarist!
bugjuice
bjme

[bugjuice]

All you bastards should be at White trash's bloody endurance race at Mt Wellington. Dont worry buggy MR will be on a much smaller bike than normal on Saturday. WT.. you got a lap scorer yet?
the race is in the afternoon, isn't it..?? Which means that we go to RB in the morning, then we all head to Mt Welly in the afternoon, in the correct order of RWHP..

[TwoSeven]

the race is in the afternoon, isn't it..?? Which means that we go to RB in the morning, then we all head to Mt Welly in the afternoon, in the correct order of RWHP..

Why not organise a group ride from the dyno to the race then - make a day of it.

[bugjuice]

Oh well, tail end charlie for you. I think the racing starts at 11:30
stfu

we'll just have to get the bikes on early, and then whoever doesn't want to go to Mt Welly goes on last, so that the peeps who do want to go can get their bikes done and then can head off when they have to.

Gareth, may be put an asterisk next to those who want to go to the race, so that we can see who's fussed and who isn't. Those who aren't can go after those who do.

And I'd organise the ride, but I have no idea where the hell I'm going, so I'm not gonna be held responsible for that, unless you want to ride around the east coast for a couple of hours following me..

[bugjuice]

they not on for a while then?
who's 'kin bright idea was it to have both on the same day then?
still, my plan could work better, since the dyno starts at 9 which gives us 2 hours there, then we scoot over to watch. where as if we go to Mt Welly first, then the dyno, we'd only get an hour to get everyone thru..

[bugjuice]

It's easy.. here ya go.

Go along motorway from city till you get to Ellerslie Panmure Hwy.. take that road.. then go all the way to Panmure roundabout (eeek) then take the second arm off that called Jellicoe Rd.. follow that up a wee way till you get to Morrin on the left.. take that
thank you Mr Helpy helper..

[N4CR]

Ok, I can lead to the track after the dyno - it is about 2 kms away from my house.

I'd be keen to go watch as well of course.

[Firefight]

wank factor.....


each to their own I guess, but IMHO what a waste of NZ$30.00 of gas money, plus having to go into the city (why would you) and waste good ride time waiting to have your turn on the dynamo thingy.

Still Like I said each to their own. oh btw Rep to you Rayza good reply.

F/F

[swanman]

Save it for www.boring_old_boats.com/forums (http://www.boring_old_boats.com/forums) grandad! This here thread's about raping the shit outta ya sports bike on a dyno.
I actually clicked on that link thinking that it looked kinda interesting. Dumfuk

[R6_kid]

alright people, have notified them 12 bikes are coming. $20 each :)

should take around about 15min per bike starting from 10am.

Basically we should all show up at about 9.15. They are gonna check chains and running gear etc.

You blokes intending to go watch the minimoto racing can be up first.

[Lou Girardin]

Explain to me, if you will, how you can simulate different loads on a rolling road dyno?

He's refering to a brake dyno, which dynojets aren't.

[TwoSeven]

I was refering to a dynojet system with the load control option.

See Here (http://www.dynojet.com/motorcycle_dyno/m250i_load_control.php)

The most basic way of doing it is to vary the inertia of the drum. Best way to explain it is - think of riding a motorcycle up a steep hill. The load placed on the engine depends on the steepness of the hill.

[scooterboynz]

i think i woud rather spend another $40 and go to pukekohe

[R6_kid]

i think i woud rather spend another $40 and go to pukekohe

err... its $90 for pukekohe... anyway have fun. I would be there but i'll just wait for the next one.

[Avignon]

alright people, have notified them 12 bikes are coming. $20 each :)

should take around about 15min per bike starting from 10am.

Basically we should all show up at about 9.15. They are gonna check chains and running gear etc.

You blokes intending to go watch the minimoto racing can be up first.

Does that mean the 12th bike has to wait 3-4 hours, on a sunny beautiful saturday. Fuck that. I'll roll up at mid-day and go from there, unless Red Baron are gonna let us do test rides in the meantime.

[White trash]

Not wanting to Hijack this but those who want to see the endurance race, the minimotos are scheduled to start at 11.30am.

[bugjuice]

I'm not gonna be able to make the dyno run in the morning now, sorry to back out like this! Will see ya at the moto racing tho..
soz Gareth

[White trash]

Hey Jimy.. A. Do you stil need a lap scorer
B. What time will you be at Mt Well
c. Might have a nigh nighs at work untill its time to go.. get that mrs of yours to come wake me up on the way thru.
D. How much to get in?

A: Possibly, you're it.
B: I'll be there from about 8:30
C: She's at Puke tomorrow
D: We don't charge for spectators.

[bugjuice]

pfft.. actually no. just don't want to show up Gareth..
I said to Texmo that i'd help him out with checking that bike, but now it looks like we're not going, so I might still be there now..
and bagsy still first if I am.. :bleh:

[R6_kid]

basically its gonna be first in first served... and i dont mind waiting. Looks like buggy's sexthreesex can line up first. :dodge:

anyway buggy, my bikes got neons now, so thats like 50hp on yours :niceone:

[bugjuice]

basically its gonna be first in first served... and i dont mind waiting. Looks like buggy's sexthreesex can line up first. :dodge:

anyway buggy, my bikes got neons now, so thats like 50hp on yours :niceone:
crap...
*must get neons and LEDs, and new tail light (http://www.vfxkits.com/c216156.2.html) quick!*
Must leave Xbox installation for surprise attack

[R6_kid]

man that tail light kit is sex (thats the setup, not you, kit)

rofl at the xbox mod... i actually almost considered a tv the other day... but i got better things to spend my money on :whistle:

[R6_kid]

oh yeh, neons arrive tomorrow *hopefully*

[swanman]

For the record....I won this event.:not: Mine 123.6 rwps.

Post em up lets see what you all got.

P.S. I am going to make the most of this as I never win anything, in fact to be exact it wasn't me it was the bike, in fact I didn't even touch it, in fact oh bollocks.:whocares:

[Madguitarist!]

haha... your's went on the dyo 2 up too!

My came out 100.8ps ...... sorry kit, you've been had! :rofl:

Thanks for organising that Gareth! Nice two bros can!

[TonyB]

For the record....I won this event.:not: Mine 123.6 rwps.

Post em up lets see what you all got.

P.S. I am going to make the most of this as I never win anything, in fact to be exact it wasn't me it was the bike, in fact I didn't even touch it, in fact oh bollocks.:whocares:
Bugger- my FZR1000 did 130.4 rwps on their dyno. If I could have been arsed riding a bizzilion k's, doing two ferry crossings etc, I woulda won :blip:

[R6_kid]

alright... hate to be an arse - yeh right.

just done some quick maths.

Yes- Swanman did put out the most rwps on the day but if you divide PS by engine capacity in CC then this is how it comes out...

sorry if i left anyone off the list

0.1666 - bugjuice
o.1551 - madguit
0.1533 - me
0.144 - texmo
0.133 - limmy
0.1236 - swanman
0.0705 - bjme

so looks like the great FZR1000 got beaten by a CBR250RR :whistle:

oh well, was good fun - and dyno shootouts are always won by the guy with the most output no matter what the engine size!

[N4CR]

Yeah too bad my camchain is to screwed to do a dyno run. Suppose I lost on the day then eh :lol:

Ah well... when it gets fixed on monday i'll get a dyno done, and top speed.

And to officially end it all:

ZXR250C 160.3kg wet
ZXR250A 170+kg wet

Ehhhhh gareth :wait: :bleh:

Now get your A on the dyno with mine to see power difference....

[TonyB]

so looks like the great FZR1000 got beaten by a CBR250RR :whistle:

Coulda told you that without the calculator mate- higher state of tune. Maybe something to do with reving to 18k...

[Avignon]

I showed up late 10:45ish but the guys still did me a run for just $20, sweet. The 900 Hornet did 98.9PS. Which is a little more than factory spec claims. I put this down to thrashing it from new with no real run in stuff. Bike weight 189kg. Theroetical top speed according to the dyno was 220kph, but Ive punched well past this; read 260kph so Im not sure whats happening there, but none the less pleasing that a bike does what the factory claims. Cheers for organising the cheap run, when I did my slightly worked GSXR750W 6 months ago it cost $35. (F.Y.I 110.2PS 220kg) :crybaby:

Craziest thing was I found out from the head wrench that the 250 Hornet has a 180 section rear tyre - What The Fuck!!!!! :shit:

[swanman]

alright... hate to be an arse - yeh right.

just done some quick maths.

Yes- Swanman did put out the most rwps on the day but if you divide PS by engine capacity in CC then this is how it comes out...

sorry if i left anyone off the list

0.1666 - bugjuice
o.1551 - madguit
0.1533 - me
0.144 - texmo
0.133 - limmy
0.1236 - swanman
0.0705 - bjme

so looks like the great FZR1000 got beaten by a CBR250RR :whistle:

oh well, was good fun - and dyno shootouts are always won by the guy with the most output no matter what the engine size!

There are lies and then statistics or sum such.

MadG i followed Limmy to get to amps and suddenly we were in Barry's Point Road! WTF don't follow Limmy, that's the 2nd time he has led me astray.

[Zed]

For the record....I won this event.:not: Mine 123.6 rwps.

Post em up lets see what you all got.

P.S. I am going to make the most of this as I never win anything, in fact to be exact it wasn't me it was the bike, in fact I didn't even touch it, in fact oh bollocks.:whocares:Lol, if I'd known this was a competition I might have turned up and blown you away Swanny! :whistle: Still, had more important things to do, like *ride* 450kms...

[swanman]

Lol, if I'd known this was a competition I might have turned up and blown you away Swanny! :whistle: Still, had more important things to do, like *ride* 450kms...

Wot is it they say for the Loto? You got to be in it to win it!


Hey I saw a brand new black bird in AMPS today for 16k, they are getting cheap, mate. I reckon they will be replacing them soon as they look past their sell by date!!:whistle: Jus jokin great bikes really.

[Zed]

Hey I saw a brand new black bird in AMPS today for 16k, they are getting cheap, mate. I reckon they will be replacing them soon as they look past their sell by date!!:whistle: Jus jokin great bikes really.Ahem...mate, just cos u dislike the looks...every Blackbird owner I have ever spoken to is more than satisfied with the machine - they are a very well-balanced weapon in the hands of the right rider! One day I'll write up a review and rave all about it...selling them off cheap alright, more machine for your money that's for sure! :not:

[bugjuice]

sorry about posting these up a little late.. just easier to sort out all these pics at work rather than at home, cos I just didn't have time (read - I have no work do to, but this week I've actually got too much work to do!)

Kinda chuffed that my bike ran a 106.2 rwps. Then to take into account I have no idea on PS and there's no ramair effect (which as been proven, but only slightly), it's not bad. I plan on a few things, so it'll be interesting to see it later on..

Anyway, on with the pics in no particular order..

[bugjuice]

and pics 2...

[R6_kid]

cheers for the pics... did anyone get a vid of my bikes speedo? Dyno sheet says 240kmh top speed...

[N4CR]

Well.. got my bike fixed with a new camchain and tensioner, sounds one hell of alot more healthy now.

Bit down on power at 35.7ps but top speed at 203~4kmh aint to shabby for a 250. Means your speedo can't be that out then gareth if ya got me at 206! :niceone:

Oooh thats right, someone smart said 250 4 storks don't go over 180-190. *Whooops*

[R6_kid]

so your zxr is half a PS down on Texmo's cbr...

i was 'chasing' him yesterday at 200 and barely making ground.

He is one fast fucker, considering he's only been on a real bike for 4 days!!!