1st time Bike Service

[ZeroIndex]

Hey people,
Gonna try do my first bike service 8000km (hopefully I can do it myself without breaking something)

How do I check which oil filter I need? can I remove the oil filter cap thingy without putting oil on the floor, and will the serial # or whatever be visible? Will the oil filter and spark plug be available from Repco, or do I need to go to one of the bike shops (recommend me a spark plug anyone..)?

When and how do you check valve clearance (single cylinder)..

I think I've covered everything I'm not sure on..

[James Deuce]

You need a service manual dude.

You'll need to remove the sump plug to drain the oil before you go removing oil filters, and it would be a really good idea to know what the torque figures for each nut you remove are so that when you put them back on you don't over or under tighten stuff. Oh yeah, you'll need a torque wrench and half a dozen tools that aren't made of cheese like the toolkit that comes with the bike.

[ZeroIndex]

You need a service manual dude.

You'll need to remove the sump plug to drain the oil before you go removing oil filters, and it would be a really good idea to know what the torque figures for each nut you remove are so that when you put them back on you don't over or under tighten stuff. Oh yeah, you'll need a torque wrench and half a dozen tools that aren't made of cheese like the toolkit that comes with the bike.

so i can't just take the oil cap thingy off to see what model it is? I have to make the bike inoperable to find what oil filter it needs?

[Jantar]

You will need to get the oil filter through your bike shop, and they will know which filter to supply. If you've never done your own service before then get a manual, and follow it step by step.

[James Deuce]

so i can't just take the oil cap thingy off to see what model it is? I have to make the bike inoperable to find what oil filter it needs?

That's not an oil filter cap, it IS the oil filter.

[SwanTiger]

Firstly, remove your spark plug and note the make and type on a piece of paper. Following that, contact your favorite local motorcycle establishment and enquire as to the availability of a Oil Filter for your make and model of motorcycle (year is sometimes significant too).

Note When replacing the Oil Filter it is usually advised to replace the 'O' ring that seals the cap. You don't really need to do this however if your bike does have one (which I presume most, if not all do) it's best to be pedantic and replace this at the same time too.

Next, ask them if they stock the make and type of spark plug currently in your bike. If not, somewhere generic such as SuperCheapAuto or Repco will stock the spark plug you require. I have always found my local Gatmans outlet very helpful and offer good discounts.

I've found going for a short ride prior to any work usually helps, then upon returning letting the engine cool to a comfortable temprature and then performing the required maintenance.

Remove the sump bolt, drain the oil fully and then proceed to remove the oil filter cap. Pull the Oil Filter out and then replace with the new Filter, ensure to observe any particular positioning of the old Filter for obvious reasons. Attach 'O' ring and or Filter cap/cover and tighten all equally/gradually.

Ensure the sump bolt is tightened and any residue oil is cleaned.

Pour new oil in through filler cap to the suggested level in your motorcycle manual.

By this point the engine has cooled.

Spark plug removal/replacement is pretty easy to work out. Out goes one and in goes the other.

Valve Clearances are relatively simple, especially with your type of engine, just consult the manual for clearance measurements and get the right tools.

Additional
There is something like a $15 to $20 difference between Synthetic Oil and Mineral, Synthetic would be best to use for your motorcycle as it seems to be relatively new. My girlfriends father who use to build race bikes reckons using the new Synthetic Oil in an older engine will do more harm than good with the additives they have in them.

Buy 4 litres and each service you'll use about 1 to 1.5 litres.

Good on yah' for wanting to do your own servicing, I save about $70 - $90 dollars on each service by doing it myself.

[SwanTiger]

Here is the Technical Servicing Information for your Bike (I hope):

First Inspection 1000 km Service Interval 2000-2500 kms Engine Oil Grade 20W40 Engine Oil Capacity 1.4 litres Oil Filter Change Every 2500kms Oil Change interval Every 2500kms Spark Plug MICO UH 3 CC/ Champion RG4HC Spark Plug gap 0.6-0.8 mm Cyl Compression 12-15kgf/cm2 Ignition timing 15deg @ 1400rpm (idle) 35deg @ 8500rpm Valve Clearances (cold) Intake 0.1-0.13mm Exhaust 0.1-0.13mm Tyre Pressure Front (Solo/Pillion) 24psi Rear (Solo/Pillion) 28/32psi Warranty 1 year or 15000km

[ZeroIndex]

thanks swanny :) I might see if I can get hold of kickingzebra to give me a bit of a hand (once i get the oil, oil filter, spark plug..)

[mynameis]

Firstly, remove your spark plug and note the make and type on a piece of paper. Following that, contact your favorite local motorcycle establishment and enquire as to the availability of a Oil Filter for your make and model of motorcycle (year is sometimes significant too).

Note When replacing the Oil Filter it is usually advised to replace the 'O' ring that seals the cap. You don't really need to do this however if your bike does have one (which I presume most, if not all do) it's best to be pedantic and replace this at the same time too.

Next, ask them if they stock the make and type of spark plug currently in your bike. If not, somewhere generic such as SuperCheapAuto or Repco will stock the spark plug you require. I have always found my local Gatmans outlet very helpful and offer good discounts.

I've found going for a short ride prior to any work usually helps, then upon returning letting the engine cool to a comfortable temprature and then performing the required maintenance.

Remove the sump bolt, drain the oil fully and then proceed to remove the oil filter cap. Pull the Oil Filter out and then replace with the new Filter, ensure to observe any particular positioning of the old Filter for obvious reasons. Attach 'O' ring and or Filter cap/cover and tighten all equally/gradually.

Ensure the sump bolt is tightened and any residue oil is cleaned.

Pour new oil in through filler cap to the suggested level in your motorcycle manual.

By this point the engine has cooled.

Spark plug removal/replacement is pretty easy to work out. Out goes one and in goes the other.

Valve Clearances are relatively simple, especially with your type of engine, just consult the manual for clearance measurements and get the right tools.

Additional
There is something like a $15 to $20 difference between Synthetic Oil and Mineral, Synthetic would be best to use for your motorcycle as it seems to be relatively new. My girlfriends father who use to build race bikes reckons using the new Synthetic Oil in an older engine will do more harm than good with the additives they have in them.

Buy 4 litres and each service you'll use about 1 to 1.5 litres.

Good on yah' for wanting to do your own servicing, I save about $70 - $90 dollars on each service by doing it myself.

Hmm not sure about the valves aye? How does he do the shims if its out? Doesnt it sometimes needs to be adjested to the bikes condition and not the what the manual says ?? Thanx mate

[SwanTiger]

Hmm not sure about the valves aye? How does he do the shims if its out? Doesnt it sometimes needs to be adjested to the bikes condition and not the what the manual says ?? Thanx mate

You sound like you know more than me so maybe you should advise him? I don't know how to convey the process over the Internet to someone who is not familiar with the integral parts of the engine.

I learnt by practising on old engines in my garage and used information sourced from the internet as a guide. From there, to do it on my own bikes it was a matter of knowing the specified clearances.

Most manuals that I've come across suggest/advise replacing the Shims if there are descrepences (sp), not entirely sure why.

Personally, I replace most 'parts' every 4,000 and 8,000 km which works out to cost around $0.01 per kilometer which is reasonable in my opinion. I'm one of those people who would rather get new and get a sense of security rather than strain as much life as possible from the part.

Another Maintenance Topic

I've started stripping parts of the big, such as the rear and front end (wheels, brakes, etc.) and clearing/regreasing/inspecting each section. Not so much that it needs to be done, but its enjoyable and you know everything is "right". Something to think about.

[ZeroIndex]

You sound like you know more than me so maybe you should advise him? I don't know how to convey the process over the Internet to someone who is not familiar with the integral parts of the engine.

I learnt by practising on old engines in my garage and used information sourced from the internet as a guide. From there, to do it on my own bikes it was a matter of knowing the specified clearances.

Most manuals that I've come across suggest/advise replacing the Shims if there are descrepences (sp), not entirely sure why.

Personally, I replace most 'parts' every 4,000 and 8,000 km which works out to cost around $0.01 per kilometer which is reasonable in my opinion. I'm one of those people who would rather get new and get a sense of security rather than strain as much life as possible from the part.

Another Maintenance Topic

I've started stripping parts of the big, such as the rear and front end (wheels, brakes, etc.) and clearing/regreasing/inspecting each section. Not so much that it needs to be done, but its enjoyable and you know everything is "right". Something to think about.
haha, sounds like someone has too much time on their hands.. kickingzebra is gonna help me, and i've flicked off an email to kineticindia.com to find out which oil filter i need (although i doubt they will respond)

[Sniper]

Dont forget to apply a thin film of oil to the seal of the filter before srewing it back on.

[ZeroIndex]

Dont forget to apply a thin film of oil to the seal of the filter before srewing it back on.
yup, kickingzebra is gonna help me with it.. got all the goodies to do the service :)

[dss3]

When you planning to do this overhaul? Might be able to give you a hand.

Daryl

[ZeroIndex]

When you planning to do this overhaul? Might be able to give you a hand.

Daryl
going to kickingzebra's at 5:15pm (soon)

[dss3]

Bad luck (or maybe good luck) I was thinking more about the weekend. Will still be here at work.

Have fun...

[kickingzebra]

Bad luck (or maybe good luck) I was thinking more about the weekend. Will still be here at work.

Have fun...

You work far too hard, how are you supposed to teach me how to wheely, when you are always working??? :wait:

Just did an oil change and sparkler people, however seeing the amount of filings on the sump plug magnet, anybody else with a gf170 would be well advised to stick to 3000 odd km service intervals.

Valve clearances I haven't played with on anything yet, so beyond my current experience.

To be honest, on a small single at 8000 kms, I doubt it matters too much.

If anyone is doing them, and doesn't mind having someone looking over their shoulder, give us a yell?!

[ZeroIndex]

You work far too hard, how are you supposed to teach me how to wheely, when you are always working??? :wait:

Just did an oil change and sparkler people, however seeing the amount of filings on the sump plug magnet, anybody else with a gf170 would be well advised to stick to 3000 odd km service intervals.

Valve clearances I haven't played with on anything yet, so beyond my current experience.

To be honest, on a small single at 8000 kms, I doubt it matters too much.

If anyone is doing them, and doesn't mind having someone looking over their shoulder, give us a yell?!
Thanks again for the service kickingzebra.. :)

[dss3]

Thanks again for the service kickingzebra.. :)

Hmmmmm, that just sounds SO wrong...:gob:

[ZeroIndex]

Hmmmmm, that just sounds SO wrong...:gob:
dammit..

..so.. do you know how to do valve clearance thingy?

[Ixion]

Valve clearance adjustment depends on what sort of valve gear you have.

Some bikes (older ones mainly, but not all, the 1200 Bandit for example) have screw tappet adjusters.

These are dead easy on a single. Remove the rocker covers (detachable bits on top of head). You should see the tops of the valves. On top of each valve will be resting the tappet (yeah, pedant alert, strictly it's not the tappet, but :nya: ...) with a threaded bit and a lock nut. Slacken lock nut , slip a feeler gauge between the tappet and the valve stem and adjust the treaded bit in or out until the feeler gauge shows the right clearance. Tighten adjuster nut and Bob's your maiden aunt .

The other sort, more common is bucket and shim. Basically, the top of the valve has a little steel buckety thing over it. In a recess on the top is a hardened steel shim, upon which the cam lobe directly bears. This type is often (not always) rather a prick to adjust. Cos you can't. You have to measure the existing clearance (feeler guage again). Then calculate the difference required for adjustment. Then remove the shim (a BASTARD of a job on some engines). Measure shim with a micrometer , add or subtract the difference you worked out above, and order new shims of the correct thickness.

It's unlikely your clearances need adjusting at only 8000km. Just check them with a feeler guage.