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Thread: 1st time Bike Service

  1. #1
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    4th January 2006 - 19:30
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    1st time Bike Service

    Hey people,
    Gonna try do my first bike service 8000km (hopefully I can do it myself without breaking something)

    How do I check which oil filter I need? can I remove the oil filter cap thingy without putting oil on the floor, and will the serial # or whatever be visible? Will the oil filter and spark plug be available from Repco, or do I need to go to one of the bike shops (recommend me a spark plug anyone..)?

    When and how do you check valve clearance (single cylinder)..

    I think I've covered everything I'm not sure on..
    There's nothing more exhilarating than pointing out the shortcomings of others, is there? -Clerks

  2. #2
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    You need a service manual dude.

    You'll need to remove the sump plug to drain the oil before you go removing oil filters, and it would be a really good idea to know what the torque figures for each nut you remove are so that when you put them back on you don't over or under tighten stuff. Oh yeah, you'll need a torque wrench and half a dozen tools that aren't made of cheese like the toolkit that comes with the bike.
    If a man is alone in the woods and there isn't a woke Hollywood around to call him racist, is he still white?



  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim2
    You need a service manual dude.

    You'll need to remove the sump plug to drain the oil before you go removing oil filters, and it would be a really good idea to know what the torque figures for each nut you remove are so that when you put them back on you don't over or under tighten stuff. Oh yeah, you'll need a torque wrench and half a dozen tools that aren't made of cheese like the toolkit that comes with the bike.
    so i can't just take the oil cap thingy off to see what model it is? I have to make the bike inoperable to find what oil filter it needs?
    There's nothing more exhilarating than pointing out the shortcomings of others, is there? -Clerks

  4. #4
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    You will need to get the oil filter through your bike shop, and they will know which filter to supply. If you've never done your own service before then get a manual, and follow it step by step.
    Time to ride

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZeroIndex
    so i can't just take the oil cap thingy off to see what model it is? I have to make the bike inoperable to find what oil filter it needs?
    That's not an oil filter cap, it IS the oil filter.
    If a man is alone in the woods and there isn't a woke Hollywood around to call him racist, is he still white?



  6. #6
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    3rd February 2006 - 00:24
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    Firstly, remove your spark plug and note the make and type on a piece of paper. Following that, contact your favorite local motorcycle establishment and enquire as to the availability of a Oil Filter for your make and model of motorcycle (year is sometimes significant too).

    Note When replacing the Oil Filter it is usually advised to replace the 'O' ring that seals the cap. You don't really need to do this however if your bike does have one (which I presume most, if not all do) it's best to be pedantic and replace this at the same time too.

    Next, ask them if they stock the make and type of spark plug currently in your bike. If not, somewhere generic such as SuperCheapAuto or Repco will stock the spark plug you require. I have always found my local Gatmans outlet very helpful and offer good discounts.

    I've found going for a short ride prior to any work usually helps, then upon returning letting the engine cool to a comfortable temprature and then performing the required maintenance.

    Remove the sump bolt, drain the oil fully and then proceed to remove the oil filter cap. Pull the Oil Filter out and then replace with the new Filter, ensure to observe any particular positioning of the old Filter for obvious reasons. Attach 'O' ring and or Filter cap/cover and tighten all equally/gradually.

    Ensure the sump bolt is tightened and any residue oil is cleaned.

    Pour new oil in through filler cap to the suggested level in your motorcycle manual.

    By this point the engine has cooled.

    Spark plug removal/replacement is pretty easy to work out. Out goes one and in goes the other.

    Valve Clearances are relatively simple, especially with your type of engine, just consult the manual for clearance measurements and get the right tools.

    Additional
    There is something like a $15 to $20 difference between Synthetic Oil and Mineral, Synthetic would be best to use for your motorcycle as it seems to be relatively new. My girlfriends father who use to build race bikes reckons using the new Synthetic Oil in an older engine will do more harm than good with the additives they have in them.

    Buy 4 litres and each service you'll use about 1 to 1.5 litres.

    Good on yah' for wanting to do your own servicing, I save about $70 - $90 dollars on each service by doing it myself.

  7. #7
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    Here is the Technical Servicing Information for your Bike (I hope):

    First Inspection 1000 km Service Interval 2000-2500 kms Engine Oil Grade 20W40 Engine Oil Capacity 1.4 litres Oil Filter Change Every 2500kms Oil Change interval Every 2500kms Spark Plug MICO UH 3 CC/ Champion RG4HC Spark Plug gap 0.6-0.8 mm Cyl Compression 12-15kgf/cm2 Ignition timing 15deg @ 1400rpm (idle) 35deg @ 8500rpm Valve Clearances (cold) Intake 0.1-0.13mm Exhaust 0.1-0.13mm Tyre Pressure Front (Solo/Pillion) 24psi Rear (Solo/Pillion) 28/32psi Warranty 1 year or 15000km

  8. #8
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    4th January 2006 - 19:30
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    thanks swanny I might see if I can get hold of kickingzebra to give me a bit of a hand (once i get the oil, oil filter, spark plug..)
    There's nothing more exhilarating than pointing out the shortcomings of others, is there? -Clerks

  9. #9
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    10th February 2006 - 15:02
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    Quote Originally Posted by swanny
    Firstly, remove your spark plug and note the make and type on a piece of paper. Following that, contact your favorite local motorcycle establishment and enquire as to the availability of a Oil Filter for your make and model of motorcycle (year is sometimes significant too).

    Note When replacing the Oil Filter it is usually advised to replace the 'O' ring that seals the cap. You don't really need to do this however if your bike does have one (which I presume most, if not all do) it's best to be pedantic and replace this at the same time too.

    Next, ask them if they stock the make and type of spark plug currently in your bike. If not, somewhere generic such as SuperCheapAuto or Repco will stock the spark plug you require. I have always found my local Gatmans outlet very helpful and offer good discounts.

    I've found going for a short ride prior to any work usually helps, then upon returning letting the engine cool to a comfortable temprature and then performing the required maintenance.

    Remove the sump bolt, drain the oil fully and then proceed to remove the oil filter cap. Pull the Oil Filter out and then replace with the new Filter, ensure to observe any particular positioning of the old Filter for obvious reasons. Attach 'O' ring and or Filter cap/cover and tighten all equally/gradually.

    Ensure the sump bolt is tightened and any residue oil is cleaned.

    Pour new oil in through filler cap to the suggested level in your motorcycle manual.

    By this point the engine has cooled.

    Spark plug removal/replacement is pretty easy to work out. Out goes one and in goes the other.

    Valve Clearances are relatively simple, especially with your type of engine, just consult the manual for clearance measurements and get the right tools.

    Additional
    There is something like a $15 to $20 difference between Synthetic Oil and Mineral, Synthetic would be best to use for your motorcycle as it seems to be relatively new. My girlfriends father who use to build race bikes reckons using the new Synthetic Oil in an older engine will do more harm than good with the additives they have in them.

    Buy 4 litres and each service you'll use about 1 to 1.5 litres.

    Good on yah' for wanting to do your own servicing, I save about $70 - $90 dollars on each service by doing it myself.
    Hmm not sure about the valves aye? How does he do the shims if its out? Doesnt it sometimes needs to be adjested to the bikes condition and not the what the manual says ?? Thanx mate

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mynameis
    Hmm not sure about the valves aye? How does he do the shims if its out? Doesnt it sometimes needs to be adjested to the bikes condition and not the what the manual says ?? Thanx mate
    You sound like you know more than me so maybe you should advise him? I don't know how to convey the process over the Internet to someone who is not familiar with the integral parts of the engine.

    I learnt by practising on old engines in my garage and used information sourced from the internet as a guide. From there, to do it on my own bikes it was a matter of knowing the specified clearances.

    Most manuals that I've come across suggest/advise replacing the Shims if there are descrepences (sp), not entirely sure why.

    Personally, I replace most 'parts' every 4,000 and 8,000 km which works out to cost around $0.01 per kilometer which is reasonable in my opinion. I'm one of those people who would rather get new and get a sense of security rather than strain as much life as possible from the part.

    Another Maintenance Topic

    I've started stripping parts of the big, such as the rear and front end (wheels, brakes, etc.) and clearing/regreasing/inspecting each section. Not so much that it needs to be done, but its enjoyable and you know everything is "right". Something to think about.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by swanny
    You sound like you know more than me so maybe you should advise him? I don't know how to convey the process over the Internet to someone who is not familiar with the integral parts of the engine.

    I learnt by practising on old engines in my garage and used information sourced from the internet as a guide. From there, to do it on my own bikes it was a matter of knowing the specified clearances.

    Most manuals that I've come across suggest/advise replacing the Shims if there are descrepences (sp), not entirely sure why.

    Personally, I replace most 'parts' every 4,000 and 8,000 km which works out to cost around $0.01 per kilometer which is reasonable in my opinion. I'm one of those people who would rather get new and get a sense of security rather than strain as much life as possible from the part.

    Another Maintenance Topic

    I've started stripping parts of the big, such as the rear and front end (wheels, brakes, etc.) and clearing/regreasing/inspecting each section. Not so much that it needs to be done, but its enjoyable and you know everything is "right". Something to think about.
    haha, sounds like someone has too much time on their hands.. kickingzebra is gonna help me, and i've flicked off an email to kineticindia.com to find out which oil filter i need (although i doubt they will respond)
    There's nothing more exhilarating than pointing out the shortcomings of others, is there? -Clerks

  12. #12
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    Dont forget to apply a thin film of oil to the seal of the filter before srewing it back on.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sniper
    Dont forget to apply a thin film of oil to the seal of the filter before srewing it back on.
    yup, kickingzebra is gonna help me with it.. got all the goodies to do the service
    There's nothing more exhilarating than pointing out the shortcomings of others, is there? -Clerks

  14. #14
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    When you planning to do this overhaul? Might be able to give you a hand.

    Daryl
    MAKE AN EFFORT TO SUPPORT THOSE WHO MAKE AN EFFORT TO SUPPORT US:



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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dss3
    When you planning to do this overhaul? Might be able to give you a hand.

    Daryl
    going to kickingzebra's at 5:15pm (soon)
    There's nothing more exhilarating than pointing out the shortcomings of others, is there? -Clerks

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