Know much about bicycles?

[Big Dog]

A few months ago I bought a helmet that fit me correctly for the first time in, err ever.
Previously I had thought that the helmets I was wearing were fitting but that I was getting pain from pressure points on the forehead.
Because of this I would rarely ride for longer than 1.5 hours without a break and after that no more than an hour.
Now that my helmet is no longer the first reason for a stop it has become apparent how much my level of fitness is affecting my ability to ride "efficiently" or for long periods with any real comfort.

So I have decided that after 4 years out of the push bike saddle it is time to get back some semblance of fitness.

Now for the query - having not bought a bike in over a decade what sort of brands / names should I be looking for?
Being 6'3" 191.5cm is going to limit my choices according to most of the comments on TradeMe.

Most, if not all riding will be road riding.
I want to commute on it at least 3 times a week and as my fitness levels (read that lap times) increase move this up to 5 times a week.
Fairly hilly terrain (coming home will be a much heavier slog, almost all uphill :Punk: ).
Cannot afford to buy new (unless rediculously cheap)

Have you had a bike in the past that met these requirements that your remember the name of?
Do you know someone tall who rides a bicycle? What do they ride?

Any serious information gratefully recieved.

[Sidewinder]

Sayam5 rides one which means, like Hyosungs, they are gay

[forkoil]

Basically you want a large frame, (Surprise), and get a known brand, they havent changed much in th 10 years you've been away. Like Cannondale, KHS, Avanti, Bauer, Giant, Trek. Having owned an alu Cannondale, I would not get another one, although nice and light, they are too hard, brittle and you get too much road feel thru the hands. If getting alu, get one with carbon forks at least. Just my opinion.... Good luck
(oh, and bicycles are not a pop topic around here :yes: )

[EJT]

If you want value for money Avanti is always a good choice - being a NZ brand. Second hand you could probably pick up something reasonably light (whcih you will need if you are doing a few hills). I see some second hand carbon bikes for reasonably money, but woudl stick to aluminium for long term use.

You should have no problems getting fitted at your hight. I know Karl from Hotcycles is 6-4 and seems to go ok on a pushbike (dont think his is custom made - but might be wrong). Definately a large size frame though.

[bungbung]

You'll be wanting a 58 or 60cm frame. I've got a old cannondale which was cheap which I use for commuting.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycling/Road-bikes/auction-98829397.htm?p=1

Something like that, but in your price range would be pretty good.

[ridetwins]

hey man, im just over the hill from you, and weird thing was this morning i was thinking of selling my road bike and getting a mountain style bike.... The trouble I have found is that the gearing on road bikes is too high (especially for kowhai Road, or for that matter all of beach road!). So if you choose a Road bike make sure it has 3 chain rings on the front to give a decent low gear for the hills. Mine (an avanti corsa - was quite a top bike bike in 1999) has only 2 chain rings and the gearing is too high, i cant be assed changing them tho.

Road bikes are unstable as well, especially if you are just getting back into it again. mountain style bikes have wider bars and more comfortable geometry, gives better control. youd need at least a 50cm mtb frame

My suggestion is get a used Avanti Barracuda or similar mountain bike - they are nothing flash but have front shocks (i think the new ones have disk brakes) and are not so heavy you cant lift them, and put on some smooth road tyres and crank up the pressures.

however if you want a light weight road bike you can buy mine, $400. pm for more if thats the case. its a size 55cm, im 6'1" and seat can go a lot higher.

[Big Dog]

(oh, and bicycles are not a pop topic around here :yes: )
Probably not but then I only want it to increase my bike fitness to ride more.
How can it be a bad thing to enjoy your riding more?

Thanks for your input guys keep it coming.

[MSTRS]

(oh, and bicycles are not a pop topic around here :yes: )

Bullshit. Just the few dickheads found riding them.....:innocent:

[forkoil]

Bullshit. Just the few dickheads found riding them.....:innocent:
Speaking of which.....

[Grub]

I don't agree with you getting a mountain bike for commuting. I did that and was passed by all the road bikes whose riders weren't pedalling while I was working my ass off. The difference is of course in the tyres and mountain bike tyres running at 45psi and my road bike running at 115psi.

I commut(ed) {before getting the CBR you understand} 30km one way 3 days a week. The time came down from 1:32 (Avanti Black Thunder MTB) to 1:11 (Avanti Sprint Roadbike) running from Whitby to Wellington city.

Things to consider
- Carbon forks (takes a lot of shock out of riding)
- Carbon seat stem (same reason)
- 8 or 9 function Computer (the Cadence measurement is th most important)
- 3 chain ring if you can find them (quite rare and you *can't* swap them without changing everything on the bike)
- Kevlar armour tyres (4 punctures in 10 days was enough for me)
- Lots of flashing red lights, $2 shop sells the ones you pay $34 for in the bike shop
- Good riding suits to cut down drag plus arm and leg warmers for winter
- HiViz vest, anklets and anything else you can get (you think you're vulnerable on a motorbike? Well...)
- Get the bike professionally fitted to you and your riding style
- Get clip pedals but *ensure* that they are set to the lightest settings until you get used to them (After 600kms of riding with no falls, I had 4 in one day because they were set as tight as they could go by the shop)

Sure I can think of other stuff, but that'll do for now

[sAsLEX]

I don't agree with you getting a mountain bike for commuting. I did that and was passed by all the road bikes whose riders weren't pedalling while I was working my ass off. The difference is of course in the tyres and mountain bike tyres running at 45psi and my road bike running at 115psi.


Ahhh but running say <img src=http://www.specialized.com/media/equip/07TireAllCond_d.jpg> on your MTB at higher pressures than a knobblie will alleviate some of that difference. review of slicks on mtb http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Tire/product_72376.shtml


I commute with a roadie on my MTB and I can keep up working a bit harder and drafting, but as soon as it gets a little rough he has to slow down, he cant jump curbs or cut through parks or any of that other stuff that urban biking can invole, all I need to do now though is to get some of the above tires!


And BD definatly get some "clipless" pedals, get some MTB ones as they look like normal shoes and have the clipping mechanism recessed so you can walk around in them unlike roadie shoes.

[Big Dog]

I don't agree with you getting a mountain bike for commuting.

For the purpose of further investigation I had a look at a couple of bike shops today.
I NEED to lose another 20 kg BEFORE a modern streeter is a good idea according to the guys in the shop, who then steered me toward MTB's even though these are cheaper.

Having looked around I may layby something because Trade me is not a whole lot cheaper and there is not a lot of xl frames let alone xxl frames for below 1,000 for just a bare frame.

Having looked, ridden and sat on about thirty bikes today.
Definitely think I need an XXL or at least an XL frame.
XL frame is definitely rideable but is not as stable in a turn as I would like.
Definitely need an off roader (the road ones twist when I pedal and change gears when I pedal hard).

Given the minimal difference in price I want to get Disc brakes and if it is shocked get lock stop shocks. This is because I intend to ride all weathers and there are some very steep hills approaching very busy intersections on the way to work. (also contrary to my motorcycle riding can be a bit of a loose unit on a bike)
I would prefer not to have the rear shocked as there will be a couple of good hill climbs on the way back :Punk: :Punk: :Punk:
Initially these hills will be too much but the whole point is to get fitter!

[Big Dog]

Ahhh but running say <img src=http://www.specialized.com/media/equip/07TireAllCond_d.jpg> on your MTB at higher pressures than a knobblie will alleviate some of that difference. review of slicks on mtb
The bike shop I am thinking about buying from says will swap for a wet and dry slick at no charge if I want.

[Big Dog]

All of above goes out the window a bit if I actually find a good cheapie on TradeMe.

[sAsLEX]

If you are BIG big then a Clydesdale bike like Kona Hoss are designed for the extra punishment you would give a frame..... though pricey.

[Big Dog]

If you are BIG big then a Clydesdale bike like Kona Hoss are designed for the extra punishment you would give a frame..... though pricey.

Already down to 135 kg (from 150 in November).
Saw a hoss on "Special" for $1200 very nice but just too damn much. (from memory that was a saving of $800
Currently looking seriously at the Avanti equivalent. Forget the name but heavy duty crank reinforced bottom end. Being end of season this too is on special.

[MisterD]

I know Karl from Hotcycles is 6-4 and seems to go ok on a pushbike (dont think his is custom made - but might be wrong). Definately a large size frame though.

You're wrong, but right EJT. The Hotcycles guys all ride Serotta (http://www.serotta.com) bikes, which are made to measure...but that's not because a 6'4" rider can't fit an off the peg frame.

[Colapop]

For those of you that know me and don't know Big Dog - he's the only KBer that lifts me!
6'3"??? WTF you're 6'5" and then some... Bro if you really want to get some good overall fitness start rowing (on an erg) It is a bit more boring but you'll get better overall fitness.

[Grahameeboy]

For those of you that know me and don't know Big Dog - he's the only KBer that lifts me!
6'3"??? WTF you're 6'5" and then some... Bro if you really want to get some good overall fitness start rowing (on an erg) It is a bit more boring but you'll get better overall fitness.

I'll lift ya big fella.............agree with rowing..a real mental battle too which is good for overall fitness............

[sAsLEX]

I'll lift ya big fella.............agree with rowing..a real mental battle too which is good for overall fitness............

http://mtbr.com/reviews/Trainer/product_87774.shtml


Bikes on a trainer would be a close match would they not for cardio workout?

Though rowing is a bit more full body..

[Grahameeboy]

I think it is good to mix and match.............rowing matches the hard out work out a ride gives you.............you can get those cycle trainers for bikes which are good and you can watch TV at same time....plus you don't have to join a gym

[Big Dog]

6'3"??? WTF you're 6'5" and then some...

Nah, I just look taller than I am because I have good posture.
Big Dave LOOKS shorter but is in fact taller than I.

In my bike boots I am 6'5".

[Big Dog]

As per rowing, I have chosen cycling because:
It should be self funding in that if I spend less than a $G on the bike the savings in fuel, servicing, tyres etc will cover the cost in first year. (still not buying all the noncy gear. (Maybe some body armour will be called for but not acres of lycra.)
If I do not achieve a tangible result on excersising (or is that exorcising?) I find the gear gets left to it's own devices. A rowing club might be a different matter. With cycling the payoffs are plentiful and close together, mastered that hill, passed that car, jumped that trafic island, stoppied that grade or even got there alive.

[Grub]

I agree BD. On the bike you are out seeing things from a new perspective, commuting for (almost) free, getting fit and the most important reason is the one you give ... achievements that you can measure. Nothing to beat that.

The computer gives me important feedback too. Better top speed, better time, better average speed, "geez look how far i have been", more cycling efficiency (cadance), better hill climbing (cadence) ... all stuff that is directly fed back from the computer

My latest addition i the heart rate monitor. It benchmarks your limits, its how the Tour riders pace themselves. There's a rate over which you start losing efficiency and can't contine. It's different for everyone. I kept reading about "80%" effort and how riders store energy for the times they need to use 80, 90 or 100% of effort. Since I had no idea if I was using only 60% or 110% of my capacity it seemed I therefore wasn't able to really make the most of what I was doing.

[Street Gerbil]

Rule of thumb:
Steel is gentle but heavy as a brick.
Alu is light but brittle and hard on reproductive (and other) organs
Ti is heavier than Alu but gentle like steel.
Carbon feels like riding crystallized air but is brittle and very expensive.
Go with Ti if you can afford it. Your prostate will thank you.
It may be a good idea to start with a decent frame and upgrade the groupset and wheels as you go. Don't repeat my mistake and get a grouppie with a granny gear. Helps a lot for those infinite climbs.
Carbon fork and seatpost are worthwhile investments.

[sAsLEX]

Rule of thumb:
Steel is gentle but heavy as a brick.
Alu is light but brittle and hard on reproductive (and other) organs
Ti is heavier than Alu but gentle like steel.
Carbon feels like riding crystallized air but is brittle and very expensive.
Go with Ti if you can afford it. Your prostate will thank you.
It may be a good idea to start with a decent frame and upgrade the groupset and wheels as you go. Don't repeat my mistake and get a grouppie with a granny gear. Helps a lot for those infinite climbs.
Carbon fork and seatpost are worthwhile investments.

A decent seat is a must for protecting the man jewels from lack of blood and its all to do with sit bone separation and the seat squashing the nerves that run between them

[Colapop]

True but I reckon you can add a bit of variance to your training regime and get better results quicker

[Big Dog]

True but I reckon you can add a bit of variance to your training regime and get better results quicker
Two words. Limited Funds.

[Jerms]

I'm 6'3" and ride a Kona Kahuna Deluxe MTB...yes, that'll be more expensive than what you want to spend but you can buy them off the shelf for tall folk...

A good idea to look out for the older models as in the 2008 versions will be arriving soon and most bike shops half half price sales on last years version.

I also used to ride a Marin...KHS are good as are Giants but they're all good except for those at the Warehouse or Kmart... :nono:

[Big Dog]

I also used to ride a Marin...KHS are good as are Giants but they're all good except for those at the Warehouse or Kmart... :nono:
I used to assemble bikes for the warehouse 13.5 years ago.
There is nothing wrong with them for street use if you are under 85 kg over that you are likely to have issues.

[wildcat_lgf]

Depending if you can find one and their price...I would recommend a Jamis Eclipse or equivalent (never owned one...but almost - I was pipped at the post). They are a steel frame, but the lightest steel frame you can buy - prob equivalent to some alloy bikes.

Be careful buying 2nd hand alloy, they have a limited life compared with steel frames - their useful/recommended life is actually only about 5yrs before brittle and stress fractures settle in. Carbon has an even shorter recommended life.

Personally I think the components are the most impt, its the running gear that keeps you moving. I would look for something a little older (don't be too proud) but with decent running gear. Probably try for a bike with Shimano Tiagra components or even Shimano 106. Try to avoid a bike with "Sora" components as they are entry level. It would suffice, but components are what will give you the headaches and maintenance issues, not the frame.

An older bike with decent components is more likely to have had a decent rider maintaining and appreciating a solid bike reliable bike.

Having said all that, if you are going for alloy you probably want a low milage bike - and definately not crashed.

[MyGSXF]

on ya bike!!!

[MisterD]

Rule of thumb:
Steel is gentle but heavy as a brick.
Alu is light but brittle and hard on reproductive (and other) organs
Ti is heavier than Alu but gentle like steel.
Carbon feels like riding crystallized air but is brittle and very expensive.
Go with Ti if you can afford it. Your prostate will thank you.
It may be a good idea to start with a decent frame and upgrade the groupset and wheels as you go. Don't repeat my mistake and get a grouppie with a granny gear. Helps a lot for those infinite climbs.
Carbon fork and seatpost are worthwhile investments.

I'm going to disagree with a bunch of this....

The only drawback with Steel is that it rusts, otherwise it's the perfect frame material...ask any roadie worth their lycra "Steel is real". If you come across a 2nd hand frame with a tag that says Reynolds 531 on it, grab it.

Entry level "proper" bikes (MTB and road) are all Aluminium alloy these days, machine welded up in asia. They're rigid as anything so great power transfer but a harsh ride - carbon forks and seat stays (the tubes from saddle to rear wheel) will take some of that "buzz" out.

Get the best bike you can afford now - and if you get serious it's cheaper to sell and upgrade the whole bike components on their own are silly expensive

[sAsLEX]

my new commuting tire

[Big Dog]

my new commuting tire
Crikey. Do slicks actually grip in the wet or do you have to go slower when raining?

When I last had a Velo style race bike I had a set with wets and a set with slicks but it used to get real hairy coming home on slicks in the rain on the days it was fine when you left home.

Lived in the naki at the time and coming down from the polytechnic there is a fairly steep hill that took some negotiating to make my turn in the wet with slicks on.
More often than not the back would step around :shit:
Almost as often the front would push :eek5:
Sometimes they both skid in some kind of horrible dance this the devil :drool:
Throw in a couple of moving obstacles capable of mincing you and the downhill bikers don't seem so tough.

[sAsLEX]

Crikey. Do slicks actually grip in the wet or do you have to go slower when raining?

When I last had a Velo style race bike I had a set with wets and a set with slicks but it used to get real hairy coming home on slicks in the rain on the days it was fine when you left home.

Lived in the naki at the time and coming down from the polytechnic there is a fairly steep hill that took some negotiating to make my turn in the wet with slicks on.
More often than not the back would step around :shit:
Almost as often the front would push :eek5:
Sometimes they both skid in some kind of horrible dance this the devil :drool:
Throw in a couple of moving obstacles capable of mincing you and the downhill bikers don't seem so tough.

Boys High hill or Cumberland st, ask K14 about helmets and that st......


Havent had the pleasure of getting rain on them yet, will update though when I do

[Big Dog]

Boys High hill or Cumberland st, ask K14 about helmets and that st......

Can't remember, moved away 8.5 years ago. Only lived there 8 or nine years in the first place. Boys high hill I would imagine and then take the hard left either first or second left. Either or destination was halfway between the two.
sometimes you would aim at the top one and find yourself up someones drive halfway to the next......