View Full Version : The CR saga for me continues...engine frozen
Well, after the last thread I thought I'd take her out to the beach on Sunday...had a blast hooning around on and off for about 30-40 mins. I stopped for about another 30mins and had a ciggy and chat to mates. Came back to the bike and tried turning her over (the engine was dead cold)...no life at all. Tried for about 5 mins kicking her over with no luck, then on my last kick over the engine seemed to seize on me...no movement in the engine it seemed with the kickstart locked.
So after a couple of words (and doing something to the bike as I wasn't to happy...but we wont go there...) pushed the bike back along Muirawai beach and back to the trailer.
Finally went back to check out the bike, made sure she wasn't hydrolocked, tried kicking it over again, no movement still, so I put it in gear and tried to turn the wheel, there's the normal movement in the chain, and then there seems to be some movement in the piston (was stoked when that happened :rockon: ) then a clunk like something is stopping it turn over, turn the wheel the other way and the same happens, normal movement from the slack in the chain then piston moves then a clunk...
Ok...now comes the hard part...anyone got any ideas?
My thoughts are (note: bike has just had new kickstart gears installed by prev owner) something in the kickstart is jamming the bike, presume there has to be a one way release type thing so that when the bike starts it disengages the kickstart. The kickstart has no movement at all...its locked (where then engine seems like it has some movement in it before the "clunk").
My only experience with engines is rebuilding car engines...so the whole kickstart 2 stroke thing is new to me.
barty5
29th May 2007, 13:55
could be conrod and piston are no longer one in the same (they have seperated hence turns over small amout till conrod locks up on barrel pull head off easy quick job to do sound like its got to come appart away
cheese
29th May 2007, 14:00
just sounds bad......
2 strokes are dead easy to work on. Just strip her down. Maybe start with the cyclinder or maybe the side cover where the clutch and kickstart are?
Mine had similar symptoms a while back. Turned out the piston skirt had disintegrated and little bits of it had jammed the crank shaft. Also, as you say, double check the kickstart mechanism, doesnt take much for that to lock up the whole she-bang, however I would have thought it would have done it before now if it was replaced a little while back.
As Cheese says, 2/'s are easy to work on. Just start stripping it down. If you've done a car engine before, you will be amazed how easy this is.
Reckless
29th May 2007, 15:07
yep as they say strip it down. Start at the top end and go on from there.
Seat off, tank and shrouds as one, radiators. Then the barrell (you can leave the head on). Then dig deaper from there. Look carefully for any missing bits like c-clips as they will be down below. Hopefully they have gone straight down and not up and down the bore a few times. If its not up top at least you can now check the top end for wear and chuck a new ring in.
Have both my Cr's in bits.
CR125, 31 hours, measures just under new, but way over wear lmit, so just needs a ring.
CR250 piston measures within new tolerances, done 53 hours, so rings, pin and bearing. I'll strip the KX85 2night.
I know some of you chuck pistons at them everytime but 20 years karting, high compressions, 5-6000 over factory revs, methenol etc have taught me sticking to manufacturers hours, only means they can sell more parts.
Good luck with your bike!
Danger
29th May 2007, 15:21
Sounds to me like its in the kickstart mech. I would pull the side cover off and have a look at that before pulling of the top end. Its easy to stuff up the installation of those if inexperienced.
Reckless
29th May 2007, 15:39
Yes very good point Danger.
Check on the clutch, in case its lost a wing off the basket etc and the alternator side to make sure something hasn't come loose and the other simple things like driveline. Good thinking Danger!
Warning to all!!
40 mins on the beach is probably the hardest on a 2 smoker.
Often very high revs, maxed out in all gears, not much decelleration to let the cooling effect if the idle jets/fuel/air work, High revs & no cooling wind when doing donuts, hard on the gas doing wheelies, usually for a lot longer than doing hard out MX racing or karting. Its not often even an MX racer will hold the revs, for the time, you will on the beach. All adds up to a lot of revs, heat and hardship on the engine.
Warning to all!!
40 mins on the beach is probably the hardest on a 2 smoker.
Often very high revs, maxed out in all gears, not much decelleration to let the cooling effect if the idle jets/fuel/air work, High revs & no cooling wind when doing donuts, hard on the gas doing wheelies, usually for a lot longer than doing hard out MX racing or karting. Its not often even an MX racer will hold the revs, for the time, you will on the beach. All adds up to a lot of revs, heat and hardship on the engine.
Hmmmm, might have to rethink the beach after hearing that, never thought of it like that but makes sense.
Sounds to me like its in the kickstart mech. I would pull the side cover off and have a look at that before pulling of the top end. Its easy to stuff up the installation of those if inexperienced.
update: pulled the side cover (small one) off the kickstart side, turned the wheel, definatly moving the gearbox gears, yet the kickstart is jammed up tight so that sort of tells me that the piston/conrod might be all good (here's hoping, its only had 10 hours on it including a new barrel!!)
Can someone tell me where the drain for the radiator is? I'm either blind or they dont have one and I have to just pull a hose...
Also, seeing as I don't have a manual for the bike sitting here right now can someone tell me if I need to remove the water pump first or if I can just pull the whole cover section off? Just trying to find the right alan key for removing the rear brake lever now...why can I never find the right one when I need it!!
update 2: ok, kickstart is now turning her over the same amount as moving the back wheel...so much for that theory...about to remove the head and have a look.
(ps: decided I can't not look at the bike...everything else is just going to have to wait :Punk: )
Reckless
29th May 2007, 16:47
you don't say on here or your profile what year etc your CR is.
But the drain for the water is usually on the side of the pump itself. Should be a 10mm bolt head with a cooper washer under and probably a pozi drive(phillips head) shape in it aswell.
Pump should come off with the cover, but some of the bolts may go all the way through as part of the mounting bolts for the main cover.
Also try taking the plug out, put it in gear, put a bit of straight wire down the plug hole onto the centre of the piston, long enough not to drop in, turn the wheel slowly, see if the piston pushes the wire up and down. That'll test eveything is connected to the piston but not if a bit is broken off. If this works maybe spend a bit more time envestigating the kick start etc.
If it doesn't just shout FFFFFUUUUUUUCCCCCKKKKKKK!!!!!!!!
B0000M
29th May 2007, 16:51
radiator drain is the bolt on the right hand side motor, the water pump is the bulgy little cover at the front, on that cover there will be a bolt with a phillips head on it as well, undo that one, its the drain.
the other one further back is the trans oil check mark
Reckless
29th May 2007, 16:58
Doesn't sound good. Sounds like something has shit itself and the crank is only turning 1 revolution each way.
By the way the beach is ok just let the bike breath and cool between thrashing's. Like with a gentle ride for a k or so to let the barrell and water temp go back to normal. Thrashing it and swtching off hot is the worst as more heat is generated when the water and pump have been stopped before the engine has normalised.
cheese
29th May 2007, 17:00
yeah a 2 stroke really doesn't liek to be on teh beach with the gas held open for long periods of time. THis is possibly the most common way people blow up 2 strokes. it leans out and BANG!!
You can find some online diagrams of your bike on the web. I'll see if I can find something
Brian d marge
29th May 2007, 17:22
most likely the piston conrod is going to be ok . head off have a look , ( if remove the barrel then then its a tad more difficult as you have the Hpp gear to line up .
Then next try alt cover , a jammed flywheel easy to look at .
all those ok ?
Then LH cover off and check Kick start Idle gear and crank shaft pinion gear for something jamming .bent etc
Be careful putting it back together , the HPP gear needs to be lined up correctly , it can go back together and look like its working , but will run like crap as the gas pressure is opening the port valves ,,
all the bottom ends I have seized have flattened the needle roller bearings and will turn over , though when started up ,,,sound awful ( But will finish a race !!1!! )
I assume its the 91 cr you are talking about
Stephen
ok, I tried the kickstart after I pulled off the side panel, and now that seems to have free'd up some movement some how...it now does the same as turning the wheel.
So...off comes the head...and all I can say is holy shit...way easier then a 4 stroke...love not having valves!!!
now...there is something jamming the piston on the up stroke...no idea what the hell it is...it looks like something has come out of the ports and jammed the piston!!!! never seen something like this before (but then I know 4 strokes). I'm charging the camera as we speak and will take a picture of whats going on.
I'm stumped, but its DEFINATLY not the kickstart...giant bit of metal sticking out of the ports I think (but can't tell very well).
EDIT: never mind, sent a PM
another thing, seeing as I can't rebuild this straight away, whats the best thing to do with the open engine, don't want it to rust or anything before I can redo it...been to long since I've done an engine and can't think (normally do them striaght away when I did them)
Well...it looks like the barrel is damaged.
DAMNIT, only ridden the damn thing for 30mins and it does this...guess it shows you should really buy a new bike
If anyone knows a cheap way of fixing what has happened please let me know...I've got my wedding on the 1st of september and if I spend much more money on this my misses is going to kill me!!! Already took the money out of the wedding funds to pay for the bike...After September I'm free to spend some serious dosh on it...like a 300cc big bore...oh yeah.
Free blow jobs to the man that helps me (please note...pisstake in action...unless my misses thinks its a cheap way to fix the problem :third: )
Buddy L
29th May 2007, 18:57
So thats the front of the barrell, where the object is, exuast side? It looks like the power value as come un stuck. Lift off the barrel and have a little tinker and see if you can get it out, or back into its right place?
But on the other hand, you no the guy selling it, is telling you the truth about having a new piston in their.
So thats the front of the barrell, where the object is, exuast side? It looks like the power value as come un stuck. Lift off the barrel and have a little tinker and see if you can get it out, or back into its right place?
But on the other hand, you no the guy selling it, is telling you the truth about having a new piston in their.
Just making sure I'm not getting confused, you are saying that it looks like a new piston? I'm pretty sure it is after looking at it myself as it looks pretty clean...
How the hell do you take a barrel out? might be a bit beyound me to be honest unless a manual would tell you how (barty5 offered me his to borrow which I'll take him up on now!!) Guessing you need a press to do that?
The guy did tell me he played with the power valve so it would open better (said it would lift the front in top gear...altho with my wieght it wont).
Reckless
29th May 2007, 19:10
Doesn't sound good. Sounds like something has shit itself and the crank is only turning 1 revolution each way.
OK looks to me like the power valve assembly is poking through into the bore. Dont like that nasty bit where it has had the piston under it and gone into the side.
But let me know what we are dealing with. If its an 07 CR we want to get new stuff but if its a 91CR we wll see what we can do!!
The wire trick would have worked here as the piston wasn't getting full stroke and you would have sussed it. Trying to kick start it wouldn't have helped either.
So take the barrell off. Strip the power valve out. Take the piston off and see what is damaged and what is not. Make sure to note if there are any missing bits or splinters that might be in the gearbox. As soon as you can stuff a rag around the conrod (B4 you remove the c-clips on the gudgeon) to stop anything from dropping in.
A new bike can do this as well. So don't sweat it.
By the way tell your missus I love BG's and am here to help!! haha!!
Good luck
OK looks to me like the power valve assembly is poking through into the bore. Dont like that nasty bit where it has had the piston under it and gone into the side.
But let me know what we are dealing with. If its an 07 CR we want to get new stuff but if its a 91CR we wll see what we can do!!
The wire trick would have worked here as the piston wasn't getting full stroke and you would have sussed it. Trying to kick start it wouldn't have helped either.
So take the barrell off. Strip the power valve out. Take the piston off and see what is damaged and what is not. Make sure to note if there are any missing bits or splinters that might be in the gearbox. As soon as you can stuff a rag around the conrod (B4 you remove the c-clips on the gudgeon) to stop anything from dropping in.
A new bike can do this as well. So don't sweat it.
By the way tell your missus I love BG's.
Good luck
Its a '93 CR250 (just changed my title).
Can someone tell me how to take the barrel out? Don't have that in cars...
I'll let my misses know ;)
Reckless
29th May 2007, 19:14
Have to go 4 tea but if there is no more damage you might be lucky with this one!!!
Reckless
29th May 2007, 19:19
not sure on a 93 but probably release the power valve arm under the top side cover on the barrell. Then simply undo the four bolts at the base of the barrell. Crack the gasket with a light blow with your hand or a rubber hammer where it joins the crankcase and slide it up over off the piston. then stuuff the rag around the hole. Don't force anything to hard.
Check in after tea OK
Buddy L
29th May 2007, 21:13
The guy did tell me he played with the power valve so it would open better (said it would lift the front in top gear...altho with my wieght it wont).
If he played with it, he probley put it back together wrong. And thats why the power value has poped out on you.
Hopefully it hasen't done damage to your barrel?
As reckless stated their should only be 4, bolts holding the barrell on.
I'll try and find a expolded view for you. Of the power value system.
Paulus
29th May 2007, 21:35
This doesn't look like an HPP engine. The HPP ones I owned all had 2 sliding power valves which pulled out from the centre of the exhaust port. This looks more like the later model (97) with a rotating power valve. Is it the original engine (or is my memory failing me)?
ok...got the barrel off.
Here are some more photos. Not sure how to deal with the power valve...never dealt withone before. first 2 are of the barrel off, 3rd is it upside down, 4th is the powervalve cover, 5th is the piston (not that it matters).
EDIT: actually...maybe I took them all upside down looking at it again
This doesn't look like an HPP engine. The HPP ones I owned all had 2 sliding power valves which pulled out from the centre of the exhaust port. This looks more like the later model (97) with a rotating power valve. Is it the original engine (or is my memory failing me)?
Not sure if this is the original engine, would have to have a hunt for the engine number...I just presumed it was the original one.
jeremyb
29th May 2007, 21:54
This doesn't look like an HPP engine. The HPP ones I owned all had 2 sliding power valves which pulled out from the centre of the exhaust port. This looks more like the later model (97) with a rotating power valve. Is it the original engine (or is my memory failing me)?
Ya, my HPP CR125 had the two blades like you describe as well :)
ok...a mate just pointed out that the piston is damaged as well...notice on the left hand side...gutted.
How did I not notice that
B0000M
29th May 2007, 22:45
i wouldve said somthing but i presumed ud noticed that!
cheese
29th May 2007, 22:50
Do they have a nickasil bore?
You maybe able to just file that groove out where the power valve has come down. Its quite concerning how it has done that though. I'd say that it's snaped, hard to say really.
You will need a new piston I'd say, you maybe the cyliner if farked. Dunno......
Brian d marge
30th May 2007, 01:20
This doesn't look like an HPP engine. The HPP ones I owned all had 2 sliding power valves which pulled out from the centre of the exhaust port. This looks more like the later model (97) with a rotating power valve. Is it the original engine (or is my memory failing me)?
its not, I was under the assumption from an earlier post ... the hpp is the sliding blade thing , 93 is the very early if not the first of the rotating valves , Yje early 91 cr had iron bores , dot know about the 93 ,, of top off head
Didnt you say you were kicking it when it Jammed ,,ie slow piston speed ??? without looking at the fotos you might be lucky!!!!
Stephen
its not, I was under the assumption from an earlier post ... the hpp is the sliding blade thing , 93 is the very early if not the first of the rotating valves , Yje early 91 cr had iron bores , dot know about the 93 ,, of top off head
Didnt you say you were kicking it when it Jammed ,,ie slow piston speed ??? without looking at the fotos you might be lucky!!!!
Stephen
Yeah I was just kicking it over when it happened.
barty5
30th May 2007, 08:06
as cheese stated you may be able to save bore just have to give it a real porting job to get rid of damaged parts the motor is a 1993 they changed in 1992 to the flap style 91 had the two vales one on each side.
vr4king
30th May 2007, 08:38
My 92 cr125 has the blades on each side.......
Man thats gotta suck for you got me all worried now as i havent even really taken mine for a ride yet and the guy did say its got about 30 hours on piston
I have spent the last week or so just goiving it a birthday,Cleaning power vavles,new air filter,etc
In my manual it mentions that water pump inspection bolt which im gueesing is the drain bolt you guys are refering to but it says nothing should come out of there it says if coolent does your pump seal is poked and if oil does your really stuffed lol.........i pulled it and coolent did come out FAST but according to my thinking it should
My 92 cr125 has the blades on each side.......
Man thats gotta suck for you got me all worried now as i havent even really taken mine for a ride yet and the guy did say its got about 30 hours on piston
I have spent the last week or so just goiving it a birthday,Cleaning power vavles,new air filter,etc
In my manual it mentions that water pump inspection bolt which im gueesing is the drain bolt you guys are refering to but it says nothing should come out of there it says if coolent does your pump seal is poked and if oil does your really stuffed lol.........i pulled it and coolent did come out FAST but according to my thinking it should
Wouldn't worry about it aye. Mine had a full rebuild 10 hours ago, it was just the power valves time I guess :bye:
I'll let you guys know how I get on once I grab a manual for it so I can figure out these powervalves.
Reckless
30th May 2007, 09:51
HI bud Here goes nothing!
Attached a pic of my 01 barrell just so happens I'm doing the strip down now. It doesn't look much different in the way the power valve is set up. Mine is a flapper.
Looks to me like the pin on yours could have broken (that is if it is similar to mine). The pin is on the left hand side of the mounting bolt that goes through the bearing. There is a stop on the cover that holds it in. Get some needle nose pliers and pull it out. It carbons up so might need to soak it in crc etc and wiggle it a bit. Power valves are a surprisingly simple system so as long as you note how it came apart you should be ok to put it back together.
There are two things that are of concern from the pics.
1/- Finding why the power valve failed and fixing it.
2/- The damage to the top of the exhaust port in the early pics where you have driven the power valve up into the barrell. But over all it doesn't look to bad.
Strip the power valve etc out and I suggest you take the barrell to your local engine recon place plead poverty and ask them to feather the edges of the damage so the rings will not hang up on it. You won't loose much if any power as its so low down and close to the port opening anyway. The rest of the barrell looks good so you might be lucky.
If that goes well its just a piston kit, and any gasket you may have torn getting it apart.
Don't forget to do the ring end gap b4 you put it back together most people forget this or dont know to do it.
Mine has A and B piston sizes, 4 when you order yours. There should be a stamp manually punched (not a casting type) into the barrell somewhere. Mine is on the side of the mounting bolt lug at the bottom outside of the barrell.
Hopefully Ive got everything correct but there is a couple of guys posting that have more knowledge of the early models and may be able to add to the above.
Good luck. Jeepers I'll do anything for a BG!! haha!!
HI bud Here goes nothing!
Attached a pic of my 01 barrell just so happens I'm doing the strip down now. It doesn't look much different in the way the power valve is set up. Mine is a flapper.
Looks to me like the pin on yours could have broken (that is if it is similar to mine). The pin is on the left hand side of the mounting bolt that goes through the bearing. There is a stop on the cover that holds it in. Get some needle nose pliers and pull it out. It carbons up so might need to soak it in crc etc and wiggle it a bit. Power valves are a surprisingly simple system so as long as you note how it came apart you should be ok to put it back together.
There are two things that are of concern from the pics.
1/- Finding why the power valve failed and fixing it.
2/- The damage to the top of the exhaust port in the early pics where you have driven the power valve up into the barrell. But over all it doesn't look to bad.
Strip the power valve etc out and I suggest you take the barrell to your local engine recon place plead poverty and ask them to feather the edges of the damage so the rings will not hang up on it. You won't loose much if any power as its so low down and close to the port opening anyway. The rest of the barrell looks good so you might be lucky.
If that goes well its just a piston kit, and any gasket you may have torn getting it apart.
Don't forget to do the ring end gap b4 you put it back together most people forget this or dont know to do it.
Mine has A and B piston sizes, 4 when you order yours. There should be a stamp manually punched (not a casting type) into the barrell somewhere. Mine is on the side of the mounting bolt lug at the bottom outside of the barrell.
Hopefully Ive got everything correct but there is a couple of guys posting that have more knowledge of the early models and may be able to add to the above.
Good luck. Jeepers I'll do anything for a BG!! haha!!
Cheers dude, I'll try and have a look at it tonight, otherwise it wont be till the weekend.
I'll let you know how I go...
Just been working out the finances...going to have to wait until after the wedding definatly now...oh well, at least it will have a full rebuild of top and bottom end then...just to make sure.
Thanks for all the help, might see some of you on the track after september (don't know how I'm going to wait until then to ride again)
cheese
30th May 2007, 14:05
you could try econohonda for the parts or ebay. they are a bit cheaper.
Danger
30th May 2007, 15:23
Just been working out the finances...going to have to wait until after the wedding definatly now...oh well, at least it will have a full rebuild of top and bottom end then...just to make sure.
Thanks for all the help, might see some of you on the track after september (don't know how I'm going to wait until then to ride again)
Dude! Snap out of it and get your priorities sorted! Just drop of a couple from the guest list. It aint going to be that expensive to fix!:mega:
Reckless
30th May 2007, 15:39
yeh mate just keep goin at the work you can do yourself.
Strip the power valve etc an get the barrell checked out first. Then worry about the piston kit and parts. Kits for early model bikes are occasionally on Trade me. Doesn't look to me like you have to touch the bottom end. We'll help out where we can.
Yeah, I'll strip it all down ready to be put back together again.
Its just I'm working half days due to something at home, and also saving for the wedding, so even $300 is alot at the moment (esp when I couldnt even afford the bike in the first place). Cry me a river and all that.
Oh to be working full time again...Roll on september!!!
Reckless
30th May 2007, 16:15
Before you strip the power valve out I've had a thought(oohh the pain)!!
You keep saying you have only riden it for 30 mins. Does that means the guy you bought it off or his mechanic has screwwed up the installation of the power valve and assembly.
Maybe you could call him up and say you'd only ridden it for 10mins and it shit itself. You have pics to support this and it is not a failure caused by you. If he is willing to pay for a new piston kit you are willing to do the rest. If he does this you won't take it any further!!!
As I see it unless you signed to say you bought it "as is where is" he is the one that screwed up the engine
Before you strip the power valve out I've had a thought(oohh the pain)!!
You keep saying you have only riden it for 30 mins. Does that means the guy you bought it off or his mechanic has screwwed up the installation of the power valve and assembly.
Maybe you could call him up and say you'd only ridden it for 10mins and it shit itself. You have pics to support this and it is not a failure caused by you. If he is willing to pay for a new piston kit you are willing to do the rest. If he does this you won't take it any further!!!
As I see it unless you signed to say you bought it "as is where is" he is the one that screwed up the engine
My brother mentioned that to me.
It was purchased as is (doh) but seeing as he has stated its in good condition within the advert it voids that statement, also there is no longer a "as is where is" type sale anymore under the new gouverment regulations in 2003. This tells the story.
http://www.consumeraffairs.govt.nz/consumerinfo/motorvehicles/buying-vehicles/buying-a-vehicle-privately.html
Can you tell I'm looking into that as a last resort? I kinda think its a bit stink it blew on the first ride, if it was the 2nd ride I wouldn't even think of it...just smells of a lemon when it brakes straight away. Hell I'd be happy to just go halfs in the parts...that way I could at least get funds for the rest.
Brian d marge
30th May 2007, 16:51
Dude! Snap out of it and get your priorities sorted! Just drop of a couple from the guest list. It aint going to be that expensive to fix!:mega:
Aint that the truth
:rofl:
Stephen
Funny thing is...he told me about a RM250 he sold (this is after I bought the bike) it blew up not long after the sale (can't remember the exact details) and the person sued him and got all his money back (hense the as is sale).
Bit of a shame for him that as I understand it "as is where is" is not even worth the paper its written on.
Still have to figure out if I want to be one of those people, I'd hate it if someone came back on a sale afterwards...but then I keep reminding myself that it only lasted for a very short time (hell...not even sure if it was even 30mins. I rode it quickly, then 2 other mates rode it qucikly to try it out...next start and boom!!)
EDIT: Just found out for sure, selling a vehicle (or anything) "as is where is" is actually illegal (I just thought it didn't mean anything) and carries a maximum of $60,000 per offence for a person and $200,000 fine for businesses.
Reckless
30th May 2007, 17:45
Funny thing is...he told me about a RM250 he sold (this is after I bought the bike) it blew up not long after the sale (can't remember the exact details) and the person sued him and got all his money back (hense the as is sale).
So given the above! Isn't it worth a phone call, while your money is still hot in his pocket. If you go for the deal I suggested all he has to do is go down the local Honda shop and pick you up a piston kit. And you won't put him through the hassle above.
Mind you I would check to see if the barrell is ok before committing to just a piston kit.
One phone call and he is already admitted he knows you can win!
So given the above! Isn't it worth a phone call, while your money is still hot in his pocket. If you go for the deal I suggested all he has to do is go down the local Honda shop and pick you up a piston kit. And you won't put him through the hassle above.
Mind you I would check to see if the barrell is ok before committing to just a piston kit.
One phone call and he is already admitted he knows you can win!
Already phoned him, decided I had to...just got his answering machine so left a message. See what he says when he phones me back.
Looking at it, it requires a piston kit, cylinder sleeve, power valve. I think the parts would cost around $500 all up with the sleeve installed. That sound about right?
Buddy L
30th May 2007, 19:10
i would say more then that, its a few hundred bucks to get the barrel re sleaved, your looking at about 250 for piston kit, and gaskets. then add another hunderd or so to get the power value fixed up.
cheese
30th May 2007, 21:03
I got a new barrel from ebay for $200 - 300 delivered. I can;t remmeber what I paid now.
cheese
30th May 2007, 21:10
piston kit $56 usd http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-PISTON-KIT-86-96-CR250R-CR250-HONDA_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35595QQihZ008QQit emZ180121725394QQrdZ1
I can't find a cylinder on eBay. TRy econohonda, but you'd be best just ger your one sleeved. I'd say though that you could probably port your one and it will be fine.
That guy fucked up the power valve though by the look of it.
found this on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CR250-WISECO-CYLINDER-SLEEVE-CR-250-1993_W0QQitemZ300094464167QQihZ020QQcategoryZ35595 QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
how much to get installed? just needs to be pressed out and this one pressed in I presume.
ok...has anyone done this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/cr250-honda-big-bore-kit-295cc-1986-to-1991-FREE-SHIP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35595QQihZ010QQite mZ4572990539QQrdZ1
295cc big bore kit, Its for a 91 but should be able to get one for mine. Doesn't seem like it would cost much more as I have to replace all those bits anyway.
Would be fun.
cheese
30th May 2007, 22:02
I'd just gte it working properly before getting a big bore and putting all that extra pressure on all the gearbox and the rest of it.
There is a place in Wnaganui that quoted me around $200 to fit a sleeve. I even think that they made them.
Yeah, I was more meaning if I have to wait until after the wedding.
Damn thats more expensive then I thought it would be to fit a sleeve.
barty5
30th May 2007, 23:17
we have an engineer we use who i think did a tt600 one for me for around $150
Reckless
31st May 2007, 07:22
If you get a sleeve don't you go away from having a Nikasil bore back to a steel bore. I don't think that would be the best.
Also I'd get the one he has sussed first a bit of tidying up might do the trick. Havn't seen it in real life but it didn't seem to bad.
Damn those pistons etc are cheap. Just Pistons 4 my CR125 $97-00 and the 250 $140-00 plus rings, pin etc etc. getting a price from Ecohonda now as well. Weisco piton kit for the KX85 $180-00. BY the time you apply the exchange, freight and the "no refund if its wrong thing" is it still worth it though?? The problem with the usa is getting them to ship to NZ.
cheese
31st May 2007, 09:01
Noooooo not wiseco.............
I've found the parts I've got for the USA to be good. I got an engine rebuild kit for $200 NZD with every seal and gasket for my bike, plus piston rings etc. I was an athena piston and a pro x conrod in the kit.
Try Wild west honda as I got some really good pricing from them the other day
barty5
31st May 2007, 11:19
If you get a sleeve don't you go away from having a Nikasil bore back to a steel bore. I don't think that would be the best.
Also I'd get the one he has sussed first a bit of tidying up might do the trick. Havn't seen it in real life but it didn't seem to bad.
Damn those pistons etc are cheap. Just Pistons 4 my CR125 $97-00 and the 250 $140-00 plus rings, pin etc etc. getting a price from Ecohonda now as well. Weisco piton kit for the KX85 $180-00. BY the time you apply the exchange, freight and the "no refund if its wrong thing" is it still worth it though?? The problem with the usa is getting them to ship to NZ.
i can get stuff out of the usa if you want checke out parts-unlimited.com can get most stuff on the site
Reckless
31st May 2007, 16:32
hey Barty
Sent you an email earlier with a list for the next 30 hour redo on my bikes.
Be kind to me with the pricing Please!
barty5
31st May 2007, 16:44
hey Barty
Sent you an email earlier with a list for the next 30 hour redo on my bikes.
Be kind to me with the pricing Please!
yeh well do the best we can idea is to supply quantity and lower cost rather than selling less for more profit
Reckless
1st June 2007, 08:26
DF
Sorry to hi jack your thread.
How did you get on with the guy that sold you the bike is he putting his hand in his pocket.
Ok, coming in on this a little late, but for those of you with CR/CRF's, you can view the parts microfishe for them here:
http://www.planethondaracing.com/cgi-bin/hondaparts/parts/
Note for the CR250's they only do '97 onwards.
DF
Sorry to hi jack your thread.
How did you get on with the guy that sold you the bike is he putting his hand in his pocket.
not a prob.
Waiting on him now, see what happens.
cheese
5th June 2007, 09:02
any updates?
any updates?
Nah nothing really yet.
i can get stuff out of the usa if you want checke out parts-unlimited.com can get most stuff on the site
How much for a right(drive side) crank seal for a 1996 rm250. Looking for one asap
barty5
20th June 2007, 23:34
you got aywhere with this yet????
-df-
23rd June 2007, 08:14
you got aywhere with this yet????
Nah, still haven't mate. Decided not to pursue the seller, not worth the hassle in the end.
After September 1st the bike will be getting either a
1) Everything checked over, replace what needs doing/or doing soon.
2) 350cc conversion kit (kit is bolt on, includes new barrel, pistion, head etc, so engine would basically be brand new ignoring the bottom end.)
Don't know which route I'll take, see how much money I can save after the wedding. I kind of found the 250cc 2 strokes lacking in power (ok, probably can't ride it to its max, but I like power :Punk: used to alot more on the road bikes) so I figure the 350cc kit might be a goer, just have to hope the exchange rate stays as it is for a little longer so it doesn't cost to much!!
Don't want to go 4 stroke, so buying a 450 is out of the question, and I've heard the 500cc 2 strokes are to heavy for track use.
Either way, I wont be touching it until after September :(
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