Decent brake pads?

[fattoes]

howdy,

being newish to this motobiking business my knowledge on good brake pad brands lies in the region somewhere between nil and squat.

the brands ECB and DP have popped up a few times but i still don't really know..

i'm looking for front and rear pads to fit my RGV250's stock Tokico calipers.

any advice apreciated

Thanks, Chris.

[F5 Dave]

Funny I'm just currently buying some myself.

Best are stock despite what many claim. $81 ea, they will last longer, be kind to the discs & work best with stock discs. 2 weeks from Japan may put you off if desperate.

Callipers gunge up pretty bad, a full strip is recommended.

[FROSTY]

Bang for buck I prefered SBS pads on the RGV. Personal preference only mind you

[moT]

get the cheapest ones you can get they probably wont be that shit its all exactly the same ur just paying for brand test them if ur bike can stoppie or lock up the rear or front wheel ur sweet... :)

[Mental Trousers]

EBC, SBS or OEM. And don't listen to anyone who says cheap is the same as decent stuff.

[Tim 39]

Yea I'd have top agree there, I use Ferodo on my 125 and they are realy good. If you want your brakes to be realy good use sintered pads (usualy goldy colour) these are harder on the disks but work far better

[moT]

how are these expenive brake pads much different you can only brake soo much before the rear of the bike starts to lift and if cheap brake pads can do that then why get expencive ones?

[Cajun]

I always use ebc. that is personal prefence, since i always know the work, and work good.

Tom - cheap might work but how long do they work for, how does constaint braking effect them (aka at track)

Two things you never scrimp on a bike, brakes and tires,

[F5 Dave]

Tyres are all the same, black & round. Right?

Someone once said to me if you can lock the front wheel on a dirtbike then why need more brakes? Answer: you can lock most anything if you squeeze violently enough, but the line between Jam the anchors on & really jam the anchors on is a fine one. Hard to get that best braking without power & feel.

Further, some pads root disc quick. Some pads aren't suited to different material.

My RGV front end has EBC AF10 pads. They are Kevlar & largely intended for rear brakes if I read EBC data right. They are absolute pants & I can't get them to stop worth a damm. This is not maligning other EBC models.

PB did a brake test some years back using a jig & tested several parameters. They found that OEM were the best pads, lasted longer & were easiest on the discs. Some brands may have probably brought the game up further but like tyres most people are comparing really worn out or contaminated pads that were seizing in the callipers & the act of fitting new pads freed the pistons so the new pads seem 'much better than what was in there.'

By all means carry on with cheapest is best, we'll all be riding chinese bikes bought on price soon anyway.:slap:

[GSVR]

get the cheapest ones you can get they probably wont be that shit its all exactly the same ur just paying for brand test them if ur bike can stoppie or lock up the rear or front wheel ur sweet... :)

The pads to buy would be ones with a nice progressive feel to them that don't fade after repeated hard braking. Shit pads like the non sintered ones eat discs and you have to squeeze the fuck out of them causing fatigue and arm pump.

Buying pads I go for the HH grade. These may have to much bite for some causing you to crash if you tend to grab the brakes in a panic situation. Maybe thats why touring and commuter type bikes don't usually come out with awesome brakes.

[Denniso]

Go for the stock Suzuki ones I'm using them in my SV1000 (RGV pads ) and they were a bigger improvment to the braking than the $1000 brembo radial master cylinder.

[Devil]

Got EBC HH sintered pads on mine (with EBC rotors) and they're just great. Stop well cold or hot and haven't had any fade on the track.