Squeak, Squeak

[DarkNinja]

Hey guys i have a very suspicious squeak coming from my front wheel, just wondering what it might be? ive had comments on bearings needing to be 'repacked' but i have a feeling they need to be completely replaced as its an old bike. Does anyone know what it would cost for this to be done? Sorry for my ranting and amatuerism, i just wanna fix my bike :S
Cheers

[toads]

Hey guys i have a very suspicious squeak coming from my front wheel, just wondering what it might be? ive had comments on bearings needing to be 'repacked' but i have a feeling they need to be completely replaced as its an old bike. Does anyone know what it would cost for this to be done? Sorry for my ranting and amatuerism, i just wanna fix my bike :S
Cheers

it's not a hard job to do yourself , just remove the wheel, pull the bearing out and get the numbers off the bearing housings, get another identical bearing probably costs between 15-40 bucks, bang the new one/ones in and bob's ya uncle!!

[DarkNinja]

Lemme get this straight b4 i go a-pulling everything.
1. Remove Pin
2. Undo bolts
3. Make the front wheel stay off the ground by weighting it back with sister or other blunt object.
4. Remove bolt and bearings housing?
5. Replace bolt and bearing housing (do i have to grease it myself?) and also scrub down brake pads :crazy:
6. Ride away on a fast donkey... I Mean bike

is that pretty much the way to do it?

[Teflon]

Lemme get this straight b4 i go a-pulling everything.
1. Remove Pin
2. Undo bolts
3. Make the front wheel stay off the ground by weighting it back with sister or other blunt object.
4. Remove bolt and bearings housing?
5. Replace bolt and bearing housing (do i have to grease it myself?) and also scrub down brake pads :crazy:
6. Ride away on a fast donkey... I Mean bike

is that pretty much the way to do it?

If your bike is still handling alright, i would say your bearings are ok, could need a little grease.

The way i check mine is to- jack the front up off the ground, get somone to hold the handle bars, wiggle the tyre, if theres movment you know they are stuffed.

[riffer]

Nearly DarkNinja.

Try this:

1. Place a scissor jack (from a car) under the bottom of the bike to hold the front wheel up. Try to do it somewhere it won't break the fairing.
2. Take out the brake pads (It'll make removing the wheel easier). Undo the bolts that hold the caliper to the fork. Using mole grips, GENTLY push back the brake pistons into the calipers.
3. Undo the bolt that holds the axle bolt at the bottom of the fork tight.
4. Undo the axle bolt and slide it out. At this stage the front wheel will drop out, the little bush at the side of the wheel will fall out and roll across the gargre and go under somewhere really dirty and hard to get to so watch where it goes!
5. GENTLY remove the wheel and place it to the side.
6. Remove the disc rotors so you won't bend them trying to get the bearings out (if they are squeeking they are probably gonna be hard to get out).
7. Put the wheel (now without the rotors on it) on its side and bang the bearings out. If you don't want to remove the rotors get a couple blocks of 4 x 2 and put the wheel on this. But if you bend the rotors when you slip don't say I didn't warn you! A good way to remove the bearings is to use a rod (I use the bar for the scissor jack) and a hammer. Put the tyre on its side, put the bar down through the axle and give it a hard tap. A couple of these and it'll come straight out. Then turn the wheel over and try again. There may be a space in between the two bearings. Remember to put this back in when you put the regreased bearings back in. I forgot and had to take them out again when I last did my bearings.
8. Grease up your bearings with a really good quality high-temperature grease (lithium-based Molybdenum grease is perfect). Carefully place them back on top of the socket, put a bit of wood over them and use the hammer to bang them back in. You did remember the spacer between the bearings didn't you?
9. Put the rotors back on. Remember the loctite locking compound or the screws may come loose when you don't want them to.
10. Get someone to help you find the spacer that flew across the gargre when you took the wheel off. Get that person to help you put the wheel back in as it's kind of tricky.
11. Do up the bottom of the fork that holds the axle on.
12. Bolt up the calipers again.
13. Put the brake pads back in the brakes. Check they are the right way around. Then check again. I've done this wrong in the past to my eternal embarassment (sorry MrMelon).
14. Give the brake lever a few squeezes until the brakes work again.

If all this sounds too hard, and you don't mind riding to Upper Hutt, send me a PM and I'll let you know my address. I'm working on my bike on Saturday morning and doing a bit more work on another bike is no worry. I've got everything you need to work on it here.

Hope this helps.

Simon

[mccool]

..it could be something simpler.

Is it a constant squeek, or does it go squeeksqueeksqueeksqueeksqueek as the wheel turns. If the latter, is it squeeking once per revolution of the wheel, or more, or less? It could be something like a brake pad rubbing on a slightly warped di'sk.

If it's bearing's don't bother repacking them, get new one's. The advice here about checking them i's good - get the wheel off the ground, grip the tire, heave it left/right, if you get knocking/clicking it's bearing's.

You have an offer of skill and labour from Celtic. Grab it.
Larry'

[riffer]

It could be something like a brake pad rubbing on a slightly warped disk.

If its bearings don't bother repacking them, get new ones.
All good advice. Not too sure about the apostrophes though...

The offer of help still stands...

[Redstar]

Nearly DarkNinja.

Try this:

1. Place a scissor jack (from a car) under the bottom of the bike to hold the front wheel up. Try to do it somewhere it won't break the fairing.
2. Take out the brake pads (It'll make removing the wheel easier). Undo the bolts that hold the caliper to the fork. Using mole grips, GENTLY push back the brake pistons into the calipers.
3. Undo the bolt that holds the axle bolt at the bottom of the fork tight.
4. Undo the axle bolt and slide it out. At this stage the front wheel will drop out, the little bush at the side of the wheel will fall out and roll across the gargre and go under somewhere really dirty and hard to get to so watch where it goes!
5. GENTLY remove the wheel and place it to the side.
6. Remove the disc rotors so you won't bend them trying to get the bearings out (if they are squeeking they are probably gonna be hard to get out).
7. Put the wheel (now without the rotors on it) on its side and bang the bearings out. If you don't want to remove the rotors get a couple blocks of 4 x 2 and put the wheel on this. But if you bend the rotors when you slip don't say I didn't warn you! A good way to remove the bearings is to use a rod (I use the bar for the scissor jack) and a hammer. Put the tyre on its side, put the bar down through the axle and give it a hard tap. A couple of these and it'll come straight out. Then turn the wheel over and try again. There may be a space in between the two bearings. Remember to put this back in when you put the regreased bearings back in. I forgot and had to take them out again when I last did my bearings.
8. Grease up your bearings with a really good quality high-temperature grease (lithium-based Molybdenum grease is perfect). Carefully place them back on top of the socket, put a bit of wood over them and use the hammer to bang them back in. You did remember the spacer between the bearings didn't you?
9. Put the rotors back on. Remember the loctite locking compound or the screws may come loose when you don't want them to.
10. Get someone to help you find the spacer that flew across the gargre when you took the wheel off. Get that person to help you put the wheel back in as it's kind of tricky.
11. Do up the bottom of the fork that holds the axle on.
12. Bolt up the calipers again.
13. Put the brake pads back in the brakes. Check they are the right way around. Then check again. I've done this wrong in the past to my eternal embarassment (sorry MrMelon).
14. Give the brake lever a few squeezes until the brakes work again.

If all this sounds too hard, and you don't mind riding to Upper Hutt, send me a PM and I'll let you know my address. I'm working on my bike on Saturday morning and doing a bit more work on another bike is no worry. I've got everything you need to work on it here.

Hope this helps.

Simon
why dont you give some detailed advice this is all very vague!(sorry I have a black humour problem)

[FROSTY]

squeak squeak sounds like theres a friggin mouse under there.
squeaking doesn't sound like a wheel bearing to me.thatd be more like a deep rumble/grinding sound. one possibility is a dry speedo drive or speedo cable.

[F5 Dave]

Try luring it out with cheese. Actually peanut butter works best, cheese is a hangover from cartoons.

My guess was brake drag too. Block the front off the ground, take the calliper off & spin the wheel slowly to see if the squeek has gone before & after. Pads squeek when worn down, or just sometimes ‘cause they want to.

If it is wheel bearings the hardest bit is getting the punch to bite the edge of the bearing. I find it best to work the spacer down on the nearside bearing & then spin the wheel around to catch that lip. This can take a while on bigger bearings. The punch should be sharp edged & hard material.

Always use a socket or something to drive the bearings back in so that the pressure is placed on the outer housing, otherwise you are using the ball bearings against their race to drive them in. ie: avoid whacking the inner part of the bearing.

[riffer]

A small cold chisel is good for driving out bearings, too.

I have found that you can use the old bearing on top of the new one to get the new bearing in. Place it on top of the old bearing, put a small block of wood on top of it, and hit it sharply with a hammer.

Is you speedo driven off the front wheel DarkNinja?

[Blakamin]

A small cold chisel is good for driving out bearings, too.

I have found that you can use the old bearing on top of the new one to get the new bearing in. Place it on top of the old bearing, put a small block of wood on top of it, and hit it sharply with a hammer.

Is you speedo driven off the front wheel DarkNinja?
Thought you're at the new job? :whistle:

[riffer]

Thought you're at the new job? :whistle:
Nope. I have the day off. Finished yesterday. I start at the new job on Monday.

So naturally, after dropping the kids off at kindy, there's time between then and school visits at 1.30.

So, the fizzer has had the whole front end pulled off as the steering's going "click" when I brake hard.

Pulled the front end out and the bottom steering race fell out. I went to put it back in and its loose.

So - out with the loctite 660 quick metal again - its curing now - I'll put the front end back together again in the morning.

How's that TOTW avi going?

[Blakamin]

Nope. I have the day off. Finished yesterday. I start at the new job on Monday.

So naturally, after dropping the kids off at kindy, there's time between then and school visits at 1.30.

So, the fizzer has had the whole front end pulled off as the steering's going "click" when I brake hard.

Pulled the front end out and the bottom steering race fell out. I went to put it back in and its loose.

So - out with the loctite 660 quick metal again - its curing now - I'll put the front end back together again in the morning.

How's that TOTW avi going?

what a nice day for it!

TOTW will be finished and zipped for d/l tonite! barring anymore hassles...like capture card not working! :mad: