How to remove corrosion?

[RSrider]

Hey People,

I Recently bought a 1993 ZXR250c. It's a great bike in general, however It has obviously either come into contact with water at some point, or been left outside as there is surface rust on most aluminium parts. My question is how do I remove it?

Pretty much all the unpainted/uncoated aluminium is doing it. Someone told me mag wheel cleaner works well?

Also, being new to bike parts and their prices, would it cost me an 'arm and a leg' to replace simple things like nuts and bolts that have corroded? Or are genuine Kawasaki parts not super expensive?

Thanks

[Pixie]

Mag wheel cleaners are often caustic - it may remove the corrosion,but it will open the way for worse corrosion to develop

[vifferman]

A good metal polish should remove it, but if it's really bad then you may need to use something more abrasive, like fine sandpaper.
Apparently that Nyalic is the stuff to follow up with - it's expensive, but does an excellent job of protecting alloy from further corrosion.

If you do decide to use a mag wheel polish, just read the directions: if it is caustic, it will say so on the bottle, and you'll need to wash it thoroughly afterwards and apply some waxy polish over the top to keep it from corroding again.

[Paul in NZ]

You sure it's corrosion?

Usually jap makers clear coat the polished alloy with laquer and then later it starts yellowing and coming of and looks scabby

[007XX]

A good metal polish should remove it, but if it's really bad then you may need to use something more abrasive, like fine sandpaper.
Apparently that Nyalic is the stuff to follow up with - it's expensive, but does an excellent job of protecting alloy from further corrosion.

If you do decide to use a mag wheel polish, just read the directions: if it is caustic, it will say so on the bottle, and you'll need to wash it thoroughly afterwards and apply some waxy polish over the top to keep it from corroding again.

What about getting rid of as much of the rust as possible, and then painting over it with a zinc oxide? It would really help in stopping future corrosion, wouldn't it?

[Pwalo]

It would be good if you could post a picture. If it is corrosion, you could use a wire brush (if it's REALLY bad) and follow up with Autosol. It's a long job.

[skidMark]

Autosol metal polish, petrol stations sell it.

[crazybigal]

back from the dead so soon skidmark?


Autosol metal polish, petrol stations sell it.

[imdying]

It was a worthwhile suggestion, I'm a big Autosol fan. Not so keen on all the rubbing though :/

[RSrider]

yup Autosol is the best product I think i've ever used. It has removed allt he oxidation on the pegs and stand, but on the motor where its a little worse the corrosion wont budge.

[imdying]

Got any pictures buddy?

[RSrider]

Here is the only photo I have the moment.

[imdying]

Fark mate, got your work cut out for you there!!! That's a drop the motor mission! Still, if you're will to go that far:

- Get a dremel, or some other rotary tool. Doesn't have to be a name brand, just make sure it's got a bit of heft in your hand, as that indicates a serious sized motor, and that'll serve you better than some random piece of shit from the warehouse. About $100.
- Get a small wirewheel attachment for it, use that to get it back to clean alloy
- Get some 400, 600, 800 wet n dry, use that to bring it back to smooth
- Get some buffs for your dremel, and some autosol. Stop polishing when you've had enough. The more like a mirror you want it, the more you'll need to keep going.

Go hard, it can be done :yes:

[Subike]

teh pic of your bike shows definat water damage from being left in the rain too long or eaven near salt water.
By the way Aluminion does not ""rust"" it only corrodes, but in doing so can weaken right through, not just the surface.
I suggest, if the wallet allows it, to get a profesional job done and have the items polished then anodised. you can add good custom look to your bike, and a surface that will out last any laquer crap on the market.
Anodising can be done in nearly any colour you want, just costs.
But yeah
Alloy corrosion due to excessive exposure to water and or salty conditions can end up turning your alloy into a white powder, a more dangeous situation than rust, as the corossion goes right through the item, not just on the surface.

[dino3310]

autosole is what i use, but when that aint enough i use steelo pads followed by a fine wet and dry after that i keep useing silocon 808 to stop it coming back,steelos work well on rust spots on stainless,recommend trying it on an unseen spot first.

[dino3310]

Fark mate, got your work cut out for you there!!! That's a drop the motor mission! Still, if you're will to go that far:

- Get a dremel, or some other rotary tool. Doesn't have to be a name brand, just make sure it's got a bit of heft in your hand, as that indicates a serious sized motor, and that'll serve you better than some random piece of shit from the warehouse. About $100.
- Get a small wirewheel attachment for it, use that to get it back to clean alloy
- Get some 400, 600, 800 wet n dry, use that to bring it back to smooth
- Get some buffs for your dremel, and some autosol. Stop polishing when you've had enough. The more like a mirror you want it, the more you'll need to keep going.

Go hard, it can be done :yes:

yeah bought a little rotary tool(ryobi$129)certainly take the elbow grease out of the job,lots of little attachments comes in very handy.

[imdying]

I suggest, if the wallet allows it, to get a profesional job done and have the items polished then anodised.Ja, would be good, but would require a total strip of the motor.


Anodising can be done in nearly any colour you want, just costs.Sadly, not on a cast surface like that :(

[RSrider]

And to get someone to do it for me? What sort of $$ would I be looking at?

[Patch]

What about getting rid of as much of the rust as possible, and then painting over it with a zinc oxide? It would really help in stopping future corrosion, wouldn't it?

eh? who let you outta te kitchen?? Rust an corrision are not the same thing :nono:


And to get someone to do it for me? What sort of $$ would I be looking at?

Did you buy it from someone who lived round the bays? looks that way to me, as its either had a swim or been outside most of its life. Thats salt damage.

Depends what you want to achieve, how much you want to spend, how long you intend to keep the bike but to get it like new . . .

Thats a remove damaged parts, clean, sand, clean, prime, sand, clean, undercoat, light sand, clean, paint, buff and replace.

or a stop gap measure - go buy some Salt-away product. You'll find it in a marine shop or google it, and buy it online. Just get the small bottle with the adapter thingy. Spray it on an leave it - no wish washy it off. It will help remove and stop that from damaging the metal any further.

Spray the motor in Marine CRC 66 - has corrosion inhibitors etc, won't damage teh paint - for the sparkly clean look, once the salt-away has done its thing, it'll take a few applications, over a few weeks.


Replace corroded bolts/nuts with cheap ali or go stainless - genuine parts are expensive. There is a decent nut an bolt shop in Porirua, not far from the tenpin bowling, back towards Pitstop, down long drive somewhere - helpful lads in there, or try in Petone somewhere.


Do you have a garage for it to live in? or buy a bike cover, You'd be surprised how far the salt will go with the wind.

[skidMark]

do what patch said...

then just spraycan it.

black or something.

[imdying]

And to get someone to do it for me? What sort of $$ would I be looking at?If I were pricing the job (I'm not a mechanic), it'd be:
- 2-3 hours to remove and refit the motor
- 16 hours to clean it up to relatively shiny (i.e. 2 full days)
- $65 an hour

So $1200 bucks :eek: That'd buy you a lot of tools and beer :yes:

It's not hard work, just laborious.

[007XX]

eh? who let you outta te kitchen?? Rust an corrision are not the same thing :nono:


Might your last name be Adams, per chance? Cos I don't take advice from clowns! :shake: :laugh:

But yes, I get what you're saying...

[skidMark]

Might your last name be Adams, per chance? Cos I don't take advice from clowns! :shake: :laugh:

But yes, I get what you're saying...


wondered why u never listen to me.

[RSrider]

Well i'm quite happy to do the work, but wouldnt have any clue how to remove and refit the motor. Anyone in Wellington keen on some cash to remove the motor for me and refit it after i've finished cleaning it up?

[imdying]

That's the spirit :D

Take heaps of pics if you do, I'd love to post it on my site in the DIY section as a guide for others :yes:

[skidMark]

Well i'm quite happy to do the work, but wouldnt have any clue how to remove and refit the motor. Anyone in Wellington keen on some cash to remove the motor for me and refit it after i've finished cleaning it up?


i will do it for free if you pay for my bus ticket to welly and back. (i'm in auckland)

[RSrider]

Are you serious? LOL

[skidMark]

Are you serious? LOL

yep...........

it's a 20 minute job.

pay it forward and all that....

take off fairings.....seats.... tank.....disconnect battery....

remove radiator

remove exhaust system.

take off airbox...unhook all carby cables throttle cables......choke cable....and plumbing....

unhook clutch cable.

pull coil leads off....

remove front sprocket cover.

loosen rear axle..... slide wheel forward so you have slack in chain to pull it off front sprocket.

undo connectors in loom.... and remember to unhook engine earth lead and starter motor lead.

undo 3 engine mount bolts.....pull them out....

catch lol

easy.

[RSrider]

Wicked mate....and to re-assemble how will we sort that out?

[skidMark]

Wicked mate....and to re-assemble how will we sort that out?

well i can either show you what to do as i take it out.

or i can come back down.

[RSrider]

You must enjoy bus rides? I can't stand the things!

Thanks for the offer, I will definitely take you up on it. Any particular time/date/week that suits best?

[skidMark]

You must enjoy bus rides? I can't stand the things!

Thanks for the offer, I will definitely take you up on it. Any particular time/date/week that suits best?


will have to get the receptionist to check the diary.

i havnt slept for ages so i'm running to bed now...but will let you know when brain is engaged.:niceone:

[koba]

Its really not that hard aye, anyone could do it, you would just have to take your time, think about it.
label thing so you know where they go back.
try not to round off bolts and the like.
Have a fair idea how tight things should be done up. ( Using ring spanners helps with this as ones for smaller bolts are shorter)
Try get a workshop manual if you can - its worth what it costs in saved labour costs.
Im guessing being a ZXR250 you aint going to want to spend heaps of money on it, so don't just make the trade off with time.

Oh and make sure you cover up any hole int the motor (inlet ports etc) when there is dust around, esp aluminium dust. Then remember to uncover them before you re attach stuff!