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View Full Version : Changing air and oil filter - CRF250 plz help



Wishtoride
12th January 2009, 14:38
Hey guys, im a real newbie and have come accross the task of changing the air and oil filters on a mates CRF250, could some one be so kind as to tell me how to do so. I am semi-mechanical so understand its not a big mish but I have not yet done this on a motorcycle.

I appreciate any help I can get.

MAC_HATER
12th January 2009, 15:00
unsure with a CRF but for my DR its rather simple

drain plug at the bottom or side of the sump - remove that and drain the oil

now the filter on yours is most likley different to mine but mine is behind a plate\cover on the kickstart side near the front - 3 bolts off and the filter will spring out spraying oil everywhere ;) - clean the filter housing out and put a film of new oil on any rubber\parts that will be sealing from oil leaks and replace the filter in reverse from taking it out

this is just a rough guide and will probably be rather different to your bike so wait till someone that knows your bike can tell you how to replace the oil filter

Cheers :D

noobi
12th January 2009, 15:04
The service manual should show you how to do it, if you have the manual

Wishtoride
12th January 2009, 16:23
Yea see I dont have the service manual. Sounds fairly simple and pretty logical.

Cheers for the in depth MAC HATER, will give it a whurl and see what happens.

Whats wrong with mac's, mine go's hard!!! lol

TLDV8
12th January 2009, 16:28
will give it a whurl and see what happens.


You will see if you overwhurl the sump plug. :doctor:

B0000M
12th January 2009, 17:07
heres some real answers

if its a crf-R the air filter is accessed via removing the seat
if its a crf-X theres a hatch on the left side cover with a half tun screw thing - no tools required

oils: trans oil the drain plug is on the left side tucked in by the gear shifter kinda beside the engine number tag

the engine oil filter is removed by undoing the 2 8mm headed bolts on the oil filter housing and giving it a bit of a turn anti clockwise to remove- the oil filter housing is the bit sticking out at the front of the left side of the flywheel cover - there should be a white plastic guard attatched to the frame to semi protect this housing. engine oil filler is the one on the left

engine oil oil;the sump plug for this is underneath the bike

trans, filler is on the right, theres a level check screw for the trans oil on the right hand side of the bike, should be a 10mm headed bolt with a posi head on it as well - actually there will be 2 bolts like this, the front one is the coolant drain.

B0000M
12th January 2009, 17:08
oh, and dont over tighten either of the sump plugs, especially the engine oil one these can crack (fuck) the engine cases if over done. (i know a noddy who did this)

Rupe
12th January 2009, 17:41
oh, and dont over tighten either of the sump plugs, especially the engine oil one these can crack (fuck) the engine cases if over done. (i know a noddy who did this)

What oils are you using for the crf boooom????

Rupe
12th January 2009, 17:47
Also aren't you ment to make sure the filter rim is greased properly and has a good seal on a 4stroke as shit let in bounces around in the valves and fucks them. So I'm told????

B0000M
12th January 2009, 18:15
im using auto trans fluid in the trans, and some valvoline engine oil 10-30 i think in the engine.

its important to make sure any air filter is oiler properly but i cant see how grease helps other than making a big mess. the filter cage fits up tight to the rim anyway so nothings guna get past as well as the whole filter beoing oiled

4stroke
12th January 2009, 18:24
motoul 5100 ester is what i ran in the crf450, in both cases, and no probs.

FlangMasterJ
12th January 2009, 18:35
I cant see how grease helps other than making a big mess.

It's just another precaution. It takes at most three minutes, so why not?

Paulus
12th January 2009, 19:40
Before you do anything else go and buy a torque wrench (a decent one too). Next get the correct torque settings for all of the involved bolts. Remember that those torque settings are dry - since there will be oil around you will need to clean both sides of the thread very carefully (removing all oil) or you will over torque the bolts (and possibly strip the case).

B0000M
12th January 2009, 19:40
It's just another precaution. It takes at most three minutes, so why not?

its a bastard when cleaning the filters again, and makes even more sticky mess in your airbox.. personal preference. ive never done it, and ive never blown a motor up, ill stick with what i personally know to work :2thumbsup

honda_power
12th January 2009, 21:09
its a bastard when cleaning the filters again, and makes even more sticky mess in your airbox.. personal preference. ive never done it, and ive never blown a motor up, ill stick with what i personally know to work :2thumbsup

iv never used it either.

i dunno about your X but both of my Rs the gearbox is on the side and the motor oil is the sump plug underneath

B0000M
13th January 2009, 07:22
iv never used it either.

i dunno about your X but both of my Rs the gearbox is on the side and the motor oil is the sump plug underneath

shit i fucked that up, yea your right, ill edit

Wishtoride
17th January 2009, 10:05
Ok so I have a fair bit of stuff to work with here, Lucky the flattie has a decent wrench. cheers for the advice guys, probly get working on it this weekend. Will let you know if I fuck anything up haha

Wishtoride
25th January 2009, 16:51
Ok got the air filter sorted, no sweat. Put a little grease around the cage just incase. It was looking like there was too much movement in it so the grease should sort that out. Dont have any oil at the moment so will tackle that next. Can you guys recommend a good oil to use or is it not a major?

theblacksmith
25th January 2009, 21:00
I always use a little extra foam filter oil around the sealing edge rather than grease.(Applied by rubbing on with finger) Grease is for moving joints where extreme pressure is encountered - not for sealing a vacuum environment.Rotate filter on the oil before tightening nut that holds it on with the cage. Then when I remove the filter for cleaning it leaves a rim of oil on the plastic - clean on the inside always.Its some sticky shite that Bel Ray foam filter oil.Does its job really well though.

mattwood
25th January 2009, 21:06
Can you guys recommend a good oil to use or is it not a major?

Im not to sure about the honda, but you could ring a dealer and see what they recommend. But try and buy it from repco or supercheap auto, bike shops normally try to charge an arm and a leg for oils.

crazyxr250rider
26th January 2009, 19:50
I recomend Magnatec 10W-40 in the engine and GTX 20W-50 in the gear-box, works well GTX is a stable non friction modified oil and Magnatec a more comlex synthetic fortified oil (basicly more slipery,too slipery for the clutch on bikes anyway).
Both are avaliable at a reasonable price at super cheap.

kezzafish
26th January 2009, 20:42
I recomend Magnatec 10W-40 in the engine and GTX 20W-50 in the gear-box, works well GTX is a stable non friction modified oil and Magnatec a more comlex synthetic fortified oil (basicly more slipery,too slipery for the clutch on bikes anyway).
Both are avaliable at a reasonable price at super cheap.

wow, you soulnd like an oil genius? can you reccommend something for my 4stroke that's 10w 50w and fully synthetic and that's "non-friction modified" i use motorex (ktm reccommended) at the mo but it's $112 for 4 litres. What's mobil1's wattage?

cynna
31st January 2009, 01:54
Also aren't you ment to make sure the filter rim is greased properly and has a good seal on a 4stroke as shit let in bounces around in the valves and fucks them. So I'm told????


what sort of grease? when i cleaned my air filter it looked like vasaline had been used - is that ok? or do you use normal general purpose grease

i never bothered greasing it after i cleaned it but i suppose it makes sense to stop dust getting in

crazyxr250rider
31st January 2009, 10:21
wow, you soulnd like an oil genius? can you reccommend something for my 4stroke that's 10w 50w and fully synthetic and that's "non-friction modified" i use motorex (ktm reccommended) at the mo but it's $112 for 4 litres. What's mobil1's wattage?
Ive never used and wouldnt recomend any fully synthetic car oils for your engine as they would root the clutch, the best value fully synthetic bike specific oil is Total Racing 10w-50 synthetic.
See autolines for a price on a 20L should be under $200.
Apart from that theres Castrol R4 superbike 5w-40, or Power GPS 15w-50.
Dont think i would trust any thing else,ive decided motul is overrated big time......