yeah, talked to both places but they want upwards of $250 per tube. just cant be bothered supporting local economy at those prices when i can get a new product for less and that includes shipping which is not cheap
Ahh, fair enough, I would go for new then. Fine if your keeping the bike, they have lasted a long time and the rust spots only happen when they sit around for ages... that's not likely now she is all purty again
I have hear that the standard chroming on for tubes is no where near as good as the aftermarket hard chroming...even heard that one guy bought a new BMW and had the forks rechromed ( no it was not Max...) I had Otahuhu guy do some BSA ones for me...I however never got to ride it....
just seen this on trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=304801874 that should be the right size for your bike if your still after one and for $40 you can't go wrong
thanks for the thought but sadly the fork spacing on my gs is more like 185mm so this one would't fit. the price is right, though :-)
Must measure the LC/RZ/XJ front end, and see what blend of parts may fit these braces, The 32mm LC front end is being replaced, I also need some 35mm clipons now too
Voltaire: Re fork chromig, when I was rebuilding a bike a few years ago I found this - most bikes forks untless some tricky gold titianium nitride coating are just flash chromed. We're had forks ground hard chromed and ground here in Auckland. Will last multiple times more than the original coating which can be chipped and dented. PSguy: Was reading your post and noted you'd said..."preload did the trick and took the sharpness out of the high speed damping" Spring changes won't change damping characteristics and vice versa. You will get a slight reduction in effective rebound when you have a stronger spring (ie the spring will overcome the rebound damping through more spring pressure. The reality is that I have found is that damper rod fork set ups like in most bikes up until the very late 80's and into the 90's is very limited in the range of suspension speed of travel that it will work properly in. It's all to do with the damper rods having holes of a fixed size - ie fixed orifice and they can only flow oil up to a max rate and then they have a form of hydraulic lock on really big sharp bumps (ie on the compression stroke). Changing oil weight up or down will have an effect on how the oil will flow, but it will always have a natural limit. It will also have an effect on the rebound side. Oil height in the fork can have an impact on springing later in the stroke. I higher level will create a smaller air gap, the air being compressed when the wheel moves up. Anyway, getting to the crux of this is there is a solution - Race Tech gold valves. (www.racetech.com is th website). These handly cheapish little gizmo's I've fitted to the forks in some of my TZ's and are great. You can essentially partially move your old damper rod forks to a mimimcing a basic catridge style fork set up of a modern bike with speed sensitive damping (ie compliance ect). ie at slow fork movements all good, and those sharp edge bumps bring into play a blow off valve process and you get around the hydraulic locking aspect. They only work on compression so the rebound aspect is still the same as before. If you ask around the pits at a postie meeting, you'll find half the bikes have them fitted. Transformed my bikes. The other big thing is that bikes sit on the springs, damping controls the springing action (ie no damping the bike would bounce up and down on the springs like a pogo stickl) Get the springs of the right weight is first job, then preload set to establish the right ride height and then work the damping from there. Note that wiinding up the preload does not change the spring rate, just lifts the initial force required to make the suspension move. Once it is moving, the spring rate is as it always will be. Excessive spring preload (ie to overcome too soft a spring) will introduce harshness in the early part of the travel. The good thing is that springs are cheap and easy to get (ie progressive, Hagon, IKON etc). I've had springs wound this year to get a better rate and have taken seconds off my lap times in 2 different circuits. I went from too light with too much preload, to a stiffer spring with no preload and a huge increase in confidence of the front end and a softer or more pleasant initial ride. Even racing hard core GP 2 strokes I still run as soft as I can away with. From the experiences I've had, Id run a more appropriate spring rate than add air caps, also I've heard storie sof where higher airpressure required has increased stiction....yuk! Hope that helps everyone? Cheers
Thanks for sharing your knowledge on front end set ups. Those Race Tech valves sound like a great improvement on stock. I agree, most people set up their front end too hard on compression. I tend to set up softer and run an extra 2 psi tyre pressure for road use.
