Help! Sump plug stripped

[oldskool]

i didnt watch them do it, if your talking about oil pissing every where my mates was empty. Just turn the bike upsidedown. Better yet, take it in and let it be someone elses problem - its aparantly quite a common issue - I stripped a oil filter cap bolt in one of my crfs and the bike shop fixed it sweet was, was never a problem again

I probably will end up leaving it to the trained apprentices to sort (shock horror the job is so small that's probably what will happen!) just curious how they prevent the metal shavings entering the gearbox is all.

[barty5]

I probably will end up leaving it to the trained apprentices to sort (shock horror the job is so small that's probably what will happen!) just curious how they prevent the metal shavings entering the gearbox is all.

there isnt and real way to stop it you just use a small magnet Small one on a flexiable wand thingy works through the sump hole after and flush it out as best you can.

[oldskool]

there isnt and real way to stop it you just use a small magnet Small one on a flexiable wand thingy works through the sump hole after and flush it out as best you can.

aaah okay, and I guess if you drain the oil the flow on will assist the swarf out like how you bleed a wound to prevent tetanus.

[YellowDog]

Well if you haven't solved this, The Warehouse sell those spanners that grip the flats and not the corners of the bolt. For $10 it's worth a try.

[kezzafish]

oldschool your pic is really tripping me out. Maybe i;m just tired but it looks like a piece of driftwood wired to a crusty, green, steel, bike frame. Can you explain the pic to me (i'm not taking the piss here)

[barty5]

oldschool your pic is really tripping me out. Maybe i;m just tired but it looks like a piece of driftwood wired to a crusty, green, steel, bike frame. Can you explain the pic to me (i'm not taking the piss here)

Shit what are you no can i have some. Anyway that the underside of the casings covered in sand and shit and rather beatin up look with the drain plug wired in so it dont undo.

[SixPackBack]

I cringe reading threads such as this. The misinformation and bullshit will at some stage result in some hapless fuck destroying the motor on their bike.

Removing the bolt is straight forward [for a quality tradesman at least]. Re-threading with either a heli-coil type insert or manufactured plug should the hole be destroyed in some manner is straight forward.

BUT...............regardless of the use of vacuum cleaner and/or grease on the re-threading tap or any other manner of minimising the swarf.............a possibility exists that swarf will remain in the crankcase. Individuals should be aware of the potential risk of motor damage from swarf when performing re-threading/inserting procedure on a crankcase.

Disassembly or the use of an endoscope to visually check for remaining swarf should ALWAYS be carried out.

[oldskool]

I cringe reading threads such as this. The misinformation and bullshit will at some stage result in some hapless fuck destroying the motor on their bike.

Removing the bolt is straight forward [for a quality tradesman at least]. Re-threading with either a heli-coil type insert or manufactured plug should the hole be destroyed in some manner is straight forward.

BUT...............regardless of the use of vacuum cleaner and/or grease on the re-threading tap or any other manner of minimising the swarf.............a possibility exists that swarf will remain in the crankcase. Individuals should be aware of the potential risk of motor damage from swarf when performing re-threading/inserting procedure on a crankcase.

Disassembly or the use of an endoscope to visually check for remaining swarf should ALWAYS be carried out.

lOve it, good post! next we'll be doing a colonoscopy procedure on it!!

[oldskool]

Shit what are you no can i have some. Anyway that the underside of the casings covered in sand and shit and rather beatin up look with the drain plug wired in so it dont undo.

good description, I love the beatin up look.. made my day!

[kezzafish]

lol lol lol. It looks like the turds already on it's way out in the photo

I still don't see it right

[theblacksmith]

Drill the ali casing with the motor upright as usual.During the drilling process (and tapping) have a steady and strong flow of air blowing in through the oil filler hole-so that it blows the swarf out of the hole you are drilling.You will obviously need goggles or a welding mask with a clear lens in it to do this.Also drill it out at a low drill rpm(its ali so should be easy)to save swarf flying around everywhere.After drilling and tapping is done flush the motor through with paraffin or a similar liquid(heaps of it)using clean stuff everytime.
If you aint happy trying this then sadly your only answer is motor out and split casing which turns the job into a days work rather than 15 mins.Not to mention the need for new gaskets,seals etc.
The old plug can be removed by putting a slightly longer wire into a loop and using a lever on it for some downward force to see if thread will catch on itself and unwind.PM me if your stuck mate.Done heaps of them.
And I aint a happles fuck whatever that means.

[oldskool]

Hey theblacksmith, now that must be the most informative reply so far! Thanks for the tips, and if I dont use half of them for this issue I'm sure they'll be invaluable some other time!

I could attach that wire to a scissor jack and wind it closed to apply the tension I guess. Then I could slowly turn the nut to try and catch the thread. It's all in the breathing ay.

[SixPackBack]

Drill the ali casing with the motor upright as usual.During the drilling process (and tapping) have a steady and strong flow of air blowing in through the oil filler hole-so that it blows the swarf out of the hole you are drilling.You will obviously need goggles or a welding mask with a clear lens in it to do this.Also drill it out at a low drill rpm(its ali so should be easy)to save swarf flying around everywhere.After drilling and tapping is done flush the motor through with paraffin or a similar liquid(heaps of it)using clean stuff everytime.
If you aint happy trying this then sadly your only answer is motor out and split casing which turns the job into a days work rather than 15 mins.Not to mention the need for new gaskets,seals etc.
The old plug can be removed by putting a slightly longer wire into a loop and using a lever on it for some downward force to see if thread will catch on itself and unwind.PM me if your stuck mate.Done heaps of them.
And I aint a happles fuck whatever that means.

The hapless fuck comment was not directed at anyone in particular, sorry if you took it the wrong way.

'Blacksmith' however is appropriate. The recommendation of compressed air to remove potential containiments within the motor casing when taping defies any known logic. Expecting said containment's to be blown back through the tap flutes is erroneous, it could be argued that this would result in containments being blown sideways into gears etc. Similarly expecting paraffin or a similar hydrocarbon to flush containments is unsure.

Both break the golden engineering rule of assumption. It is said that 'assumption is the mother of all fuck ups' In this case it most certainly is true.

If it was my 20 yr old gn250 I would take the risk, if however it was my K6 then regardless of the work I would be either stripping the motor or hiring an endoscope to carefully check visually for any remaining swarf.

Oh and the very last technique I would use would include compressed air. That would be one of the worse ideas I have heard of. Turning swarf into potential mini missiles free to travel to the underbelly of your motor is very poor practice.

[oldskool]

The hapless fuck comment was not directed at anyone in particular, sorry if you took it the wrong way.

'Blacksmith' however is appropriate. The recommendation of compressed air to remove potential containiments within the motor casing when taping defies any known logic. Expecting said containment's to be blown back through the tap flutes is erroneous, it could be argued that this would result in containments being blown sideways into gears etc. Similarly expecting paraffin or a similar hydrocarbon to flush containments is unsure.

Both break the golden engineering rule of assumption. It is said that 'assumption is the mother of all fuck ups' In this case it most certainly is true.

If it was my 20 yr old gn250 I would take the risk, if however it was my K6 then regardless of the work I would be either stripping the motor or hiring an endoscope to carefully check visually for any remaining swarf.

Oh and the very last technique I would use would include compressed air. That would be one of the worse ideas I have heard of. Turning swarf into potential mini missiles free to travel to the underbelly of your motor is very poor practice.

wow the mind boggles!! that is truly awe inspiring prose indeed!! I will take all that you have said on board, thanks very much!!

[vr4king]

[FFS sake if were gonna push into a grave you may as well state that a spiral flute tap should be used as they are designed to push the swarf out towards the shank as opposed to a straight fluted(gun tap) which will "push" the swarf forward


some hapless fuck???
We are all here to help mate every situation is different so we are all just going of past experiance im sure NO-ONE is intending him to destroy is engine

which next poo-hole pub we stopping at next?