Help! Sump plug stripped

**B0000M** · 29th May 2009, 18:53

Originally Posted by vr4king

which next poo-hole pub we stopping at next?

on that note, i notice a lot of road bikers like to stop at pubs all the time, how many of them are actually riding over the limit? surely there must be a shitload.

enjoy your 2D riding btw lol, ill keep to 3D for now

**theblacksmith** · 29th May 2009, 21:38

I think SixPack Back would really like to see you go to the trouble of splitting your motor completely.Whilst your in there you might as well change all the bearings and seals and gaskets.Oh and a conrod kit and piston etc.
Seems a very big cost to rectify a very simple problem which I have seen been done about 5 times now with success. Once in a Suzuki dealership as well.(Where they had to stand by their work)
Its your bike mate - you fix it whatever way suits you.
Go easy on the new sump plug whatever you do.

**scumdog** · 29th May 2009, 22:02

Originally Posted by SixPackBack

The hapless fuck comment was not directed at anyone in particular, sorry if you took it the wrong way.

'Blacksmith' however is appropriate. The recommendation of compressed air to remove potential containiments within the motor casing when taping defies any known logic. Expecting said containment's to be blown back through the tap flutes is erroneous, it could be argued that this would result in containments being blown sideways into gears etc. Similarly expecting paraffin or a similar hydrocarbon to flush containments is unsure.

Both break the golden engineering rule of assumption. It is said that 'assumption is the mother of all fuck ups' In this case it most certainly is true.

If it was my 20 yr old gn250 I would take the risk, if however it was my K6 then regardless of the work I would be either stripping the motor or hiring an endoscope to carefully check visually for any remaining swarf.

Oh and the very last technique I would use would include compressed air. That would be one of the worse ideas I have heard of. Turning swarf into potential mini missiles free to travel to the underbelly of your motor is very poor practice.

I've had success pour a couple of litres of diesel fuel into a motor from the top to flush out all kinds of crap - having said that I'd be tempted to use a rifle bore-scope kinda deal to check all the swarf has gone - if you can.

And thick grease on the tap you use in the first place will help greatly too.

**SixPackBack** · 29th May 2009, 22:16

Originally Posted by theblacksmith

I think SixPack Back would really like to see you go to the trouble of splitting your motor completely.Whilst your in there you might as well change all the bearings and seals and gaskets.Oh and a conrod kit and piston etc.
Seems a very big cost to rectify a very simple problem which I have seen been done about 5 times now with success. Once in a Suzuki dealership as well.(Where they had to stand by their work)
Its your bike mate - you fix it whatever way suits you.
Go easy on the new sump plug whatever you do.

Can you gaurantee your method removes all of the swarf?...........oh and name dropping does not work-I would win!

Originally Posted by scumdog

I've had success pour a couple of litres of diesel fuel into a motor from the top to flush out all kinds of crap - having said that I'd be tempted to use a rifle bore-scope kinda deal to check all the swarf has gone - if you can.

And thick grease on the tap you use in the first place will help greatly too.

The scope is moving closer and so is the grease. However if it was your brand new V-rod and the consequence for leaving a small particle of aluminium or steel behind was a $10000 rebuild would you be 100% confident?

**flyingcr250** · 29th May 2009, 23:14

Originally Posted by SixPackBack

Can you gaurantee your method removes all of the swarf?...........oh and name dropping does not work-I would win!

The scope is moving closer and so is the grease. However if it was your brand new V-rod and the consequence for leaving a small particle of aluminium or steel behind was a $10000 rebuild would you be 100% confident?

another fantastic post from a blacktop bumface who thinks they know every thing.

now im not saying my method is without its risks, im just saying its worked for me more than a couple of times.

ive had the same problem before oldschool my method was much the same as theblacksmith's one, i drilled it at low rpm, stepping up a drill size each time i drilled, untill eventually the head of the bolt broke off leaving just the hollow thread in the casing which came out very easily with a small screw driver. then i flushed the casing with diesel, installed the new plug, filled with oil, then rode around on it for a while, drained the oil and checked the magnetic plug(if your bike has one). but like has been said before everyone has their own way. its worked for me without any problems, as well as a couple of mates too.

**kezzafish** · 30th May 2009, 00:59

shit oldshool, don't take any calculated risks. don't leave the house mate. we're obviousely all too stupid here to take care of ourselves.

I'd recommend before touching your dirtbike again get a tetnis shot, a rabis swab, spermacide your seat, and wear a large condom over your head for any airborne disease you may come across out there on those dangerous trails.

A buttplug wouldn't go a miss either... ya never know when someone may ask you to sit on their V-rod

**B0000M** · 30th May 2009, 01:26

are we talking about an engine oil sump or a trans oil sump?

**Cr1MiNaL** · 30th May 2009, 02:07

Haha so glad to see that not only I strip sump plugs! I just took it off and had it re helicioled professionally since it was on my R6 and not worth a nubie mistake!! On a dirt bike would be sweet to try any of the meathods I shd think.

**SixPackBack** · 30th May 2009, 05:34

Originally Posted by flyingcr250

another fantastic post from a blacktop bumface who thinks they know every thing.

now im not saying my method is without its risks, im just saying its worked for me more than a couple of times.

ive had the same problem before oldschool my method was much the same as theblacksmith's one, i drilled it at low rpm, stepping up a drill size each time i drilled, untill eventually the head of the bolt broke off leaving just the hollow thread in the casing which came out very easily with a small screw driver. then i flushed the casing with diesel, installed the new plug, filled with oil, then rode around on it for a while, drained the oil and checked the magnetic plug(if your bike has one). but like has been said before everyone has their own way. its worked for me without any problems, as well as a couple of mates too.

Your method does not guarantee the ingress of swarf does it?.......you do it not perform any check afterwards and the fact that you got away with it once or twice is meaningless.

Quick and dirty methods have been presented by a blacksmith and a motor body builder. The correct method and associated risks have been presented by an Engineer.

**SixPackBack** · 30th May 2009, 05:42

Originally Posted by kezzafish

shit oldshool, don't take any calculated risks. don't leave the house mate. we're obviousely all too stupid here to take care of ourselves.

I'd recommend before touching your dirtbike again get a tetnis shot, a rabis swab, spermacide your seat, and wear a large condom over your head for any airborne disease you may come across out there on those dangerous trails.

A buttplug wouldn't go a miss eather... ya never know when someone may ask you to sit on their V-rod

..................similarly an offset printer is unlikely to be the first port of call when discussing Engineering compromises.

**kezzafish** · 30th May 2009, 06:00

I didn't see you suggest anything at all. I saw you tell everyone that they are fuckwits at varying degrees? You will be fantastic in a mangement position

**laserracer** · 30th May 2009, 08:08

Yeah ok but ive met plenty of so called engineers that have been wrong in my time also... not that im saying you are wrong, im just saying the other guys just have different opinions on how to fix the problem

**flyingcr250** · 30th May 2009, 08:14

Originally Posted by SixPackBack

Your method does not guarantee the ingress of swarf does it?.......you do it not perform any check afterwards and the fact that you got away with it once or twice is meaningless.

Quick and dirty methods have been presented by a blacksmith and a motor body builder. The correct method and associated risks have been presented by an Engineer.

neither do any of your methods......the fact that your an "engineer" doesnt mean shit, the only way to really be sure is to split the case. in my experience engineers have a tendency to over think problems, and seem to always be on their high horse, turning an easy repair into open heart surgery, your no more qualified than the rest of us in this respect, would you get a geological survey done before digging a hole for a clothesline??

rant over

was there really any need for the bad rep???? i was just disagreeing with you.

**noobi** · 30th May 2009, 09:55

Originally Posted by flyingcr250

was there really any need for the bad rep???? i was just disagreeing with you.

have you found that only the road riders are the ones who red rep, who in the offroad red reps?

it seems that all recommended methods use the same principle, low speed rpm with lots or grease then flush with something, spb just says use an endoscope to be sure that its well clean.
its your engine OS, do it however you want, just be sensible about it