KLR riders out there

[NordieBoy]

I'm really tempted to make a couple of liteweight stainless guards for the rad & reservoir & lose the front speedo etc,hook up a small headlite & small indicators to make a dirtversion kLR & then have a quickfit fairing setup to change over for longer rides.

I noticed it also didn't want to fall over sideways when slightly off balance.

Wait I think I've just described a DR

Oh noes!


Sounds a bit like that one on AdvRider but he went to the huge tank. I liked it though.

[NordieBoy]

Hi all,

Apologies if some of you have seen this before, but tonight I accidentally discovered the most amazing page ( more like a novel ) of information re our trusty KLR's

I've just spent the last 1/2 hour learning all sorts of things I thought I already knew......

http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html#generalinformation

Have a look...... curious as to how useful people find the info

Cheers, Stu

Quite a bit of stuff there you can replace KLR with DR and it'd still be applicable.
Good stuff

[RedKLR650]

That was what I am concerned about when checking my tappets. What size shims should I take if they're out? Do they come in standard sizes or infinite sizes to suit how far they are out?

Check out that link I posted six of posts above this one (Post #102)...... Info as follows....

The KLR's valve shims are 29mm in diameter. There are other sizes that are close, but make sure they give you the right ones. If your Kawi dealer doesn't have the right ones in stock, shims from an '87 BMW K75S and '82 Yamaha Seca 750 are the same diameter. (Beware, there are also 29.5mm shims, which will not work.)

Cheers, Stu

[warewolf]

What size shims should I take if they're out? Do they come in standard sizes or infinite sizes to suit how far they are out?

Shims usually come in 0.05mm thickness increments, sometimes 0.02 or 0.025. Which is why your spec is given to a 0.05mm tolerance. It's not like a bearing that has to be a very precise fit. The shims are originally marked with the size, and should be inserted marking down so the cam doesn't rub the marking off. They can also wear, so it is good practice to double-check the marking by measuring with a micrometer.

You need to measure the clearance, read/measure the existing shim, and calculate the difference between the existing clearance and what you want, add that to the existing shim to get your new shim. There are charts to do the grunt work for you. And hopefully when you re-check the clearances after it is all back together, you've done it right and don't have to repeat the exercise. DAMHIK.

Most bike shops have a tackle box full of the different sizes, and will exchange yours for $10 each. I also have half a dozen you are welcome to swap - the Trophy ones are about the same, will have to measure to see if they are 29 or 29.5mm. I've used Triumph and Yamaha ones in the past.

It is usually a good idea to set them as open as you can. This creates a little more tappet noise, reduces your top end power a smidge, but means it is a lot longer before they go out-of-spec tight. Means you spend more services checking they are okay without having to take the cams out to change shims.

Hmmm, what was that about KTMs requiring more maintenance? Screw and locknut valve clearances are a doddle compared to this caper!

PS record your clearances and shim sizes, this will give you a history of how much the valves are receding, and means next time you can shop for the correct shims before removing the old ones.

[Woodman]

That was what I am concerned about when checking my tappets. What size shims should I take if they're out? Do they come in standard sizes or infinite sizes to suit how far they are out?

Apparently kawasaki make shims in .002" (2 thou) increments. I still got my micrometers from the olden days so measured them and the next one down will easily have it still in tolerance. You can also swap them around a bit to get the right clearance if the combos work. BTW warewolfs measurements are metric whereas mine are imperial.

They have numbers on them so really all you need is the one that is one step thinner or 2 steps if they are really tight but they shouldn't be.

I thought about setting them all loose but the job is not a biggie so am gonna leave mine in the middle of the tolerance.

Adjustable rockers would be easier but bucket and shims are a superior design technically speaking.

If you need a hand I am happy to help and there is some good step by step info online.

[Howie]

That was what I am concerned about when checking my tappets. What size shims should I take if they're out? Do they come in standard sizes or infinite sizes to suit how far they are out?

Hi , this link has a Shim size chart on this page, plus links to how to do's, for other mod's and procedures for KLR's

http://www.klr650.marknet.us/shimtable.html

cheers

Paul

[Padmei]

Thanks guys for the tech tips.

WW has generously offered his shed for a shed nite so will do it then. How come they tighten as opposed to loosen. The design obviously defies most other parts that loosen over time.

As the bike is still under warantee I don't really want to waltz into the kawa shop & ask for shims as they may not like anyone opening the top.

[MXNUT]

Thanks guys for the tech tips.

How come they tighten as opposed to loosen. The design obviously defies most other parts that loosen over time.

2 words..... Valve Recession

The valve face ( where it sits against the valve seat ) slowly wears down from repeatedly being hammered shut by the valve spring causing the end of the valve to move closer to the camshaft thus reducing clearance.

Dust and dirt also has the same effect which is why it is so important to keep air filters clean.

[pete376403]

Adjustable rockers would be easier but bucket and shims are a superior design technically speaking.

Maybe or maybe not. Shims UNDER buckets are possibly the best, but a PITA to set clearances as the cams HAVE to be removed. (eg Yamaha FZR1000). Shim OVER bucket is more convenient, as with the correct tools the shims can be removed with the cams in place. The downside of shim over bucket is that at high revs, if the valves float, the shims can come part way out. Next time the cam lobe comes around, the valve is pressed way too far open, collides with the piston, mayhem occurs. This used to happen a lot in superbike racing when the two valve GS1000, KZ1000 etc motors were used.
Theres a Z1000 superbike on trademe that lists underbucket shim conversion as one of its many features
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-226989160.htm

[pete376403]

Thanks guys for the tech tips.
As the bike is still under warantee I don't really want to waltz into the kawa shop & ask for shims as they may not like anyone opening the top.

I don't think they can use the warranty as a reason to prevent you performing your own maintenance (as opposed to repair). Obviously if you screw up the job and damage the engine then it's not going to be repaired under warranty.
Anyway, tell them you need the parts for an old BMW you have...

[Woodman]

Maybe or maybe not. Shims UNDER buckets are possibly the best, but a PITA to set clearances as the cams HAVE to be removed. (eg Yamaha FZR1000). Shim OVER bucket is more convenient, as with the correct tools the shims can be removed with the cams in place. The downside of shim over bucket is that at high revs, if the valves float, the shims can come part way out. Next time the cam lobe comes around, the valve is pressed way too far open, collides with the piston, mayhem occurs. This used to happen a lot in superbike racing when the two valve GS1000, KZ1000 etc motors were used.

I was more thinking in a mechanical efficiency line. if I had a compressor I would have left the cam in and used crc and air to blow the shim out while pressing the bucket down but taking the cams out doesn't take any longer really.

The valve float thing is probarbly not so much of an issue with 4 valve heads therefore lighter valves less inertias etc.

Wow this thread has stayed pretty much on topic since it started and its mainly occupied by klrererers . Double wow.

[JATZ]

Wow this thread has stayed pretty much on topic since it started and its mainly occupied by klrererers . Double wow.

You know......you wouldn't have these problems with a DR

I'll just leave now

[Padmei]

You know......you wouldn't have these problems with a DR

I'll just leave now

Funny tho - we take our bikes apart cos we want to, not because we have to

That aside please lets not turn this into DR vs KLr or I'll have to bump up the tiresome KLRDR debate thread to keep this one clean.

What's being worn down more with valve recession? The valves themselves or valve seats?
BTW I appreciate all the info - velly intelesting

[Woodman]

Funny tho - we take our bikes apart cos we want to, not because we have to

That aside please lets not turn this into DR vs KLr or I'll have to bump up the tiresome KLRDR debate thread to keep this one clean.

What's being worn down more with valve recession? The valves themselves or valve seats?
BTW I appreciate all the info - velly intelesting

Valve recession is part of the reason why valve clearances close up. valve and seat wear about even really.

A valve closes against the valve seat every second revolution and the only thing that closes it is the valve spring which may be about 50 pounds seated. If you are riding at an average of 4000rpm then your valve is closing 2000 times per minute in a very harsh environment e.g. bloody hot . The valve and the seat will wear into each other and that is what causes some of the valve clearance to close up. The other thing that will cause it is the valve actually stretches generally just up from the head.

[MXNUT]

Valve and seat wear about even really.

In a very high revving modern 4 stroke ( 250 - 450 Mx engines ) this is also very dependant on the material the valve is manufactured from with the preference by some manufacturers to use titainium.
This is due to the lower weight of the valve requiring a valve spring with less tension therefore requiring less horsepower to open .Titainium valves do wear faster in these applications which is why many aftermarket parts companies offer replacemant valve kits with valves made from stainless steel


From a Suzuki rider lurking in this thread