KLR riders out there

[Padmei]

Smooth enough to do the next XC?

[Woodman]

Smooth enough to do the next XC?

Its a road bike now.

[Padmei]

Fair enough. I'll get Schmidtty up & running & we can... um... do whatever road riders do I spose...

[NordieBoy]

Fair enough. I'll get Schmidtty up & running & we can... um... do whatever road riders do I spose...

Mud, water crossings and hills by the sounds of it.

[Padmei]

Mud, water crossings and hills by the sounds of it.

Here's me thinking i'd be wearing tight leathers & filling up at every gas station.

oh BTW I'm really really badassed - a ticket was waiting for me at home for doing 55kms in the work van - this is after being pulled over a few weeks ago in the brethy bus full of kids for doing 80kmh in a 100k zone - had nothing to with having a cop up my jacksie at all


Oh the shame

[Woodman]

Ok, I just tried my leather jacket on that I got when I was 18 and it seems to have shrunk since last century, so possibly just possibly I just may try taking it a wee way off road cos I just haven't a thing to wear for road riding.

Nordie, have you still got those usd forks there for me to look at /measure up etc.?

[NordieBoy]

Here's me thinking i'd be wearing tight leathers & filling up at every gas station.

Well that sounds more like the KLX with road tyres...

Nordie, have you still got those usd forks there for me to look at /measure up etc.?

Yep. I'll just have to have a look around and see where I put them.

Oh yeah, the floor based storage system.

I may need to nick the rim though. The TT one is pretty grotty inside.

[Woodman]

Put some more miles on the beast today and shit its running nice (mostly)

It is still getting hot when I ride slow or waiting at lights etc so the radiator needs to be replaced or recored which I knew so thats okay. The good news is the thermobob is really working in that the temp does not drop below 88 whereas it used to get in the 70's.(No Nordie not flared trousers type 70's) so the massive temp fluctuations aren't there now.

The only issue now is that it is hard to start when its hot. Was trying to start it this arvo and was just sitting on the bike giving the starter a rest when it backfired by itself. I hit the starter and it started . Weird.
Any ideas? possible vacuum leak ?

[Padmei]

I would guess the reed valves need to be resealed or re seated.
I wouldflush the tank with antifreeze first to make sure there aren't any residual microbes from the diesel. You did prerun it with diesel first didn't you?
Check the points, their tangents & the crosshairs for accuracy.
Tighten up the batteryterminals & smear with low cholesterol spread - don't use anything with free radicals.

You may find when you had it apart the spacing between the crack & pinion in the cam may have been altered unintentionally. I may be wrong but I think a 2.5mm Oring can be substituted if the original waxed crack has perished.

If the new oil has any acidic properties (will show on the label under additives starting with 30xxx) then an effervescent additive will bring the ph level to a more acceptable level.

Hope this helps

[NordieBoy]

I would guess the reed valves need to be resealed or re seated...............

Tooooo much sugar in the milo....

[Woodman]

I would guess the reed valves need to be resealed or re seated.
I wouldflush the tank with antifreeze first to make sure there aren't any residual microbes from the diesel. You did prerun it with diesel first didn't you?
Check the points, their tangents & the crosshairs for accuracy.
Tighten up the batteryterminals & smear with low cholesterol spread - don't use anything with free radicals.

You may find when you had it apart the spacing between the crack & pinion in the cam may have been altered unintentionally. I may be wrong but I think a 2.5mm Oring can be substituted if the original waxed crack has perished.

If the new oil has any acidic properties (will show on the label under additives starting with 30xxx) then an effervescent additive will bring the ph level to a more acceptable level.

Hope this helps

Yes thats it, even after a few coronas ( I have excess limes) that makes perfect sense.

Crack and pinion

[pete376403]

Backfired through the carb or in the exhaust?
Through the carb ususally points to ignition timing too far advanced but there's no facility to manually adjust the timing on the KLR, is there?
Firing in the exhaust is (usually) an air leak that allows enough fresh air into the pipe to burn any unburned fuel, if there is something hot enough to ignite it.

Does your bike have the air injection valve that bleeds air into the exhaust port? If yes, has this been removed, and if yes again, has the hole into the port been plugged?

[Woodman]

Backfired through the carb or in the exhaust?
Through the carb ususally points to ignition timing too far advanced but there's no facility to manually adjust the timing on the KLR, is there?
Firing in the exhaust is (usually) an air leak that allows enough fresh air into the pipe to burn any unburned fuel, if there is something hot enough to ignite it.

Does your bike have the air injection valve that bleeds air into the exhaust port? If yes, has this been removed, and if yes again, has the hole into the port been plugged?

Its back firing through the exhaust, and mine doesn't have the fresh air thingy.

I am pretty sure, now that I think about it that it is that dumass plastic choke cable connection thing on the side of the carby that is nigh on impossible to tighten. In my haste to get a shot out of it I may have not tightened it proper.

[pete376403]

In that case I'd try the things that Padmei suggests.

According to the KLR forums (fora?) the plastic choke thing can be replaced with a Harley part which is metal and doesn't break

[Eddieb]

......the plastic choke thing can be replaced with a Harley part

There are so many comparisons and pisstakes possible with that statement that I'm not sure where to start.