KLR riders out there

**Padmei** · 30th April 2011, 21:02

Originally Posted by Eddieb

There are so many comparisons and pisstakes possible with that statement that I'm not sure where to start.

Go on give us one. I can't think of any...

**Padmei** · 30th April 2011, 21:13

Just as a quick hijack from Woodmans probs.

I fitted a set of Renthal Enduro highs handlebars on the KLX today & they are awesome. They would prob be the closest aftermarket bar to the original KLR steel bars. Their rise is 130mm vs the CR High's 90mm. If you are tall & like to stand straight, if fitted with 40mm risers they are the business.
You would have to get the dealers to call the importers as most shops seem to think the CRhighs are the highest ones available - I did a fair bit of researching & they used to be called 'Dakar's
They cost $149 local but online you can get them delivered for $121 (GST mayapply) from overseas.

Back to the popping prob.

**marks** · 30th April 2011, 21:37

Originally Posted by Woodman

Its back firing through the exhaust, and mine doesn't have the fresh air thingy.

I am pretty sure, now that I think about it that it is that dumass plastic choke cable connection thing on the side of the carby that is nigh on impossible to tighten. In my haste to get a shot out of it I may

have not tightened it proper.

what about cam timing - could a cam being 1 tooth out cause hard hot starting?

**Woodman** · 30th April 2011, 21:40

Originally Posted by Eddieb

There are so many comparisons and pisstakes possible with that statement that I'm not sure where to start.

Just doing some research and apparantly the same choke mechanism from Kawasaki in the states is about 3 times the price for a harley one and they are the same part.

DR 350 chokes fit too, gets rid of the cable etc.

**Woodman** · 30th April 2011, 21:43

Originally Posted by marks

what about cam timing - could a cam being 1 tooth out cause hard hot starting?

Possibly, but their is no way that a cam is a tooth out. You would have to be blind to do that.

**pete376403** · 1st May 2011, 18:41

Originally Posted by marks

what about cam timing - could a cam being 1 tooth out cause hard hot starting?

Probably cause hard cold starting too, with valve heads and piston collisions going on.

How about the auto decompressor mech on the end of the exhaust cam - that working correctly?

**Woodman** · 6th May 2011, 17:45

Fixed the hot starting problem

Then went for a hoon up to the top of the maungatap.

Runs like a dream.

**NordieBoy** · 6th May 2011, 19:51

Originally Posted by Woodman

Fixed the hot starting problem

Do tell

Originally Posted by Woodman

Runs like a dream.

Which dream?

**Crim** · 6th May 2011, 19:52

Originally Posted by Woodman

Fixed the hot starting problem

Runs like a dream.

What was it?

Glad to hear she is running like a dream!

Got my first speeding ticket on my KLR yesterday

**Woodman** · 6th May 2011, 20:38

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Do tell

Which dream?

Actually didn't find anything significant except that the rear carb boot was sorta not on one side of the carb and was sorta inside the carb sorta.

Still don't see why that made it hard to start hot as its not the vacuum side , but maybe I inadvertantly fixed a vacuum leak when the carb was off today.

Crim , bugger about the ticket. Had a first myself today in that I accidentally did a wheelie on the road without trying. 685 kit yeah

**NordieBoy** · 6th May 2011, 20:53

Ouch. Lucky it hasn't been dusty the last few days then...

Or would it help bed the new rings in

**Woodman** · 6th May 2011, 20:59

Found it prior to the maunga ride, that was the acid test.

very wary of dust now, to wit the K& N will be for winter use only now.

**Crim** · 6th May 2011, 21:07

Originally Posted by Woodman

very wary of dust now

Talking of dust and other stuff getting in (water) - I drilled a couple of holes in my side covers so I wouldn't have to take the covers (and pannier racks) off to remove the seat. But, after I went (succesfully) through a ford the other day that tripped up my travelling companion (not naming names) and we undrowned his steed I had real trouble starting mine, which is really unusual, and was wondering if any water splashed through my little hole into the intake - reckon that might be a reason for hard to start, or am I down the wrong track?

**Woodman** · 6th May 2011, 21:18

Originally Posted by Crim

Talking of dust and other stuff getting in (water) - I drilled a couple of holes in my side covers so I wouldn't have to take the covers (and pannier racks) off to remove the seat. But, after I went (succesfully) through a ford the other day that tripped up my travelling companion (not naming names) and we undrowned his steed I had real trouble starting mine, which is really unusual, and was wondering if any water splashed through my little hole into the intake - reckon that might be a reason for hard to start, or am I down the wrong track?

Don't really think that would make any difference. The intake is very exposed to dust and mud and water being splashed off the rear wheel as it is. have you ever had a look in your airbox after a deep watery ride? theres generally a fair bit of mud and shit in there in my experience.

Hint: install your snorkel upside down and you will be able to go thru water an inch or so deeper.
have you done the t (y) mod?

**Crim** · 6th May 2011, 21:38

Originally Posted by Woodman

Don't really think that would make any difference. The intake is very exposed to dust and mud and water being splashed off the rear wheel as it is. have you ever had a look in your airbox after a deep watery ride? theres generally a fair bit of mud and shit in there in my experience.

Hint: install your snorkel upside down and you will be able to go thru water an inch or so deeper.
have you done the t (y) mod?

I have seen the last issue of Kiwirider and realise that you have a lot of experience in deep watery rides

- WTF is the t (y) mod or do we talk in code to keep the DR pretenders in the dark?