Reading the clymer manual now about valve setting etc. Once it starts talking about procedures my eyes start glazing over & I head for the afghans. That's why I need you guys to drip feed info to me![]()
You could try http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Valve_Shim_Check_FAQ.htm
I used it when doing the shims on the F650's for the first time.Not sure what your setup looks like but the measuring section should be the same
This is a fairly good write up of the procedure for pre 08 KLR's not sure how different it is on the new shape ones. http://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html
Paul’s Adventure riding Photo’s
Latest photo's
Paved Roads are just another example of Wasted Taxpayer Dollars
Google "how to set KLR650 valve clearance" and see how many step-by-step documents pop up... that's how I found you have the shim arrangement.
You wanted your footpeg to fall off?
Parts loosen because they wear. The valves effectively loosen wrt the piston, if that helps your grey matter. Part of the reason there is a clearance at the top of the valve is to create space for the parts at the bottom of the valve to wear in to. Part of it is to allow space for heat expansion (hence doing them cold, so that factor is neutralised/constant).
I have old valves in the shed you can have a look at to see the wear. I also have an old crankshaft, conrods, pistons, camshafts...
So go to a different shop, or tell them it's for a different bike.
Technically/legally - and there are threads here about this - anyone can work on your bike, including yourself, and that in itself does not void the warranty despite any written or verbal assurances to the contrary from a dealer/manufacturer. A service log & receipts is good enough proof that the work has been done, dealer stamp not required. Shall we talk about this on Thurs?
Cheers,
Colin
Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
Not sure if its all '08s or just mine, but - there is a tube that bleeds fresh air into the exhaust port (to help clean up emissions). Tube is fastened to the cam cover, and the boss that the fastener screws into is placed exactly right to hit the frame and prevent lifting the cover up far enough to clear the cam sprockets.
A few minutes with the Dremel (note; because I am a cheap-ass KLRista, the $39.95 SuperCheap equivalent) removed enough of the boss to allow cover removal.
I had the Suzuki tools that allow pushing down the buckets without removing the cams (hooked under the cams and pushed the edge of the bucket down enough to lift the shim out with a magnet or tweezers, made for the old two valve GS series 4 cylinder motors). I should ask for them back and see if they work on the KLR.
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
ran my klr with the rocker cover off the other day cos i like to watch, and besides getting oil all over me fairing the thing that was really apparent was how quiet the engine was. The cover must resonate all the mechanical noises something shocking.
I mentioned vegetables once, but I think I got away with it...........
Went to Filco this arvo and got a couple of .002' thinner shims, whacked em in and shes all go, cept had to wait to get enough charge in the battery b4 she started.
The numbers on the back of the shims relate to the thickness in mm.e.g. Mine had 265's and to get .05mm (.002" in proper language) thinner I got
260's.
The 265 is 2.65 mm total thickness and so on.
I mentioned vegetables once, but I think I got away with it...........
It also helps to disguise the emissions... adding fresh air dilutes the bad stuff so the bike gets a better tailpipe measurement without doing diddly-squat for the environment.
It is conceivable that the weight and complexity of the system could measurably increase fuel consumption and negate any gains from helping to burn off the noxious stuff.
Bureaucracy gone mad...
Cheers,
Colin
Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks