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Thread: How to get a deregistered bike on the road

  1. #1
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    How to get a deregistered bike on the road

    Another thread raised this subject so I thought I'd give you guys n gals the facts on the compliance AND reCOMPLIANCE process as it stands TODAY.

    First off there are usually four reasons a bike needs to be complied
    The first is registration has lapsed. Simply put the owner has for some reason not registered the bike for more than 12 months
    The second is a freshly imported vehicle from overseas
    The third is that an insurance company or other organisation has deregistered the bike due to accident damage
    The fourth is a modified motorcycle.

    SO option 1 -REGISTRATION LAPSED.
    First you need to provide proof of YOUR identity ,Proof you own the bike and that the bike is not stolen.
    Proof of ownership is simply a receipt from the last registered owner with their FULL name and address--it pays to ask if they have moved house -if you can get them a copy of the registration certificate is gold.
    Proof of your identity is your licence of course
    Proof its not stolen involves a stroll to your local cop shop with the frame/number plate number. They will issue a form stating the bike is NOT of interest to them.
    I] Next if the bike is manufactured after 1991 take the bike to a bike shop who will issue you with a brake certificate. This will cost you $50-$150 depending on the shop [/I]
    A brake cert involves First getting the thickness of the disks when new. Then read the minimum thickness of the disks (its stamped on all post 91 disks usually between the bolts) Then then measure all the brake disks to ensure they are above minimum thickness at the thinnest part of the disk They also measure the brake pads for thicknessw .The (If you can get the form and have an accurate set of calipers you can do this yourself.)
    BEFORE-taking the bike any further make sure all the indicator,tailights and headlight have standards marks on em. Make sure the headlight (s) points where they are soposed to and that the bike is up to WOF standard Tyre,chain,swingarm,steering head,fork seals not leaking and wheel bearing wise. Also make sure all footpegs etc are secure.
    A WORD OF WARNNG--Once you take your bike for compliance you only have 28 days to rectify any /all faults found otherwise you have to get it reinspected--and pay the compliance fee again --so it pays to make sure it WILL pass before taking it to them
    Woohoo --now with your bike and all your paperwork head to the nearest MOTORCYCLE compliance center.
    Not all car compliance centeres do bikes. Easy way is to phone the VTNZ compliance line or the AA compliance line--they will advise your nearest inspection center
    They will now sting you about $150- $250 to inspect the bike.
    Once this is done You will be handed a brand new WOF and a blue piece of paper called an MR2A --This bit of paper means your bike is safe to be on the roads in NZ and all you need to do is register it. You have 24 months to do this.
    Take your MR2a to the nearest Testing station and hand them your Filled out MR2A (you fill out your details like a normal rego form)
    Pay them $230-its gone up in price and they will hand you a shiney new number plate and a rego sticker for 6 months --(minimum registration period for a rereg/new reg)-or a bit more if you want 12 months rego
    JOB DONE
    So total cost if simply lapsed rego around $450
    Worth a mention- Quite often for bikes you can take your bike to a VTNZ or AA compliance center who will do the whole thing from start to finish for you as long as you have the paperwork (including brake cert) in order. . This can save a bit of hassle and possibly a few $

    A FRESH IMPORT INTO NZ

    You need the certificate of DEREGISTRATION from the country of origin. If it was a private sale it also pays to keep the registration documents and preferably the contact details of the seller.DON'T loose that dereg-its really important. This is your proof of ownership.
    You Need to provide proof of your identity-Drivers licence is fine.
    ] Next regardless of the bikes age take the bike to a bike shop who will issue you with a brake certificate. This will cost you $50-$150 depending on the shop [/I]
    A brake cert involves First getting the thickness of the disks when new. Then read the minimum thickness of the disks (its stamped on all post 91 disks usually between the bolts) Then then measure all the brake disks to ensure they are above minimum thickness at the thinnest part of the disk They also measure the brake pads for thickness.The (If you can get the form and have an accurate set of calipers you can do this yourself.)

    BEFORE-taking the bike any further make sure all the indicator,tailights and headlight have standards marks on em. Make sure the headlight (s) points where they are soposed to (Imports from USA,Canada and Europe excluding UK have their headlights pointing the wrong way when on dipped beam this isn't allowed in NZ)You most likely will need to replace the headlight with a NZ compliant one Make sure that otherwise the bike is up to WOF standard .Tyre,chain,swingarm,steering head bearings,swingarm bearings,fork seals not leaking and wheel bearing wise. Also make sure all footpegs etc are secure.
    A WORD OF WARNNG--Once you take your bike for compliance you only have 28 days to rectify any /all faults found otherwise you have to get it reinspected--and pay the compliance fee again --so it pays to make sure it WILL pass before taking it to them
    You then follow EXACTLY the same steps as for a deregistered bike with the same sort of costs.
    To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?

  2. #2
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    Option 3- THE BIKE HAS BEEN DEREGISTERED BY AN INSURANCE COMPANY-or other organisation.

    First you need to provide proof of YOUR identity.Proof you own the bike and proof that the bike is not stolen.
    Proof of ownership is simply a receipt from the last registered owner with their FULL name and address--it pays to ask if they have moved house -if you can get them a copy of the registration certificate is gold. If you have purchased the vehicle at auction or by tender you will be given a GST receipt This will act as proof of ownership--Make SURE all the bikes details are correct.
    Proof of your identity ican be your licence or passport
    Proof its not stolen involves a stroll to your local cop shop with the frame/number plate number. They will issue a form stating the bike is NOT of interest to them. If the bike is a stolen and recovered you might need to do some chasing up in order to get it taken off the police stolen vehicles register. This involves contacting the last owner and/or the insurance company.

    BEFORE doing ANYTHING to the bike you should Get in touch with a motorcycle structural engineer.
    The LTSA will supply you a list of local guys. (I use and recomend Alex Gee in ASuckland --He actually IS a biker so understands bike engineering.)
    Make an appointment with him. Tell him the Make,model and Year of your bike. Some engineers come to you some need you to go to them.
    Next its in your best interests to do the following.
    Take off all the plastics,seat and the tank, except where the actual plastics support the headlight(s)
    If the bikes 100% straight youll be going -"Frosty you ass whyd ya tell me to do that?"
    If the bikes a bit not straight then you're going to have to take it to bits anyway.
    The structural engineer is going to turn up with the FACTORY dimensions of the bike on his check sheets.
    He will then measure your bike to ensure it matches those dimensions within the tolerences allowed,
    He will check the wheelbase is correct,
    He will check that the back wheel is right behind the front wheel.The sideways tollerence for this is 3.0mm
    He will check that the wheels are straight up and down and that there arent cracks or dings the frame.He is also checking to see if the wheels themselves are bent.
    The engineer will now look over the bike in a general manner to make sure the seat/rear subframe is sitting along the centerline of the bike and not twisted. He will also look at the front subframe to ensure the headlight beam is of pointing in the right direction.
    This is where taking the plastics off is great.
    NOW--if its out he will in wrighting tell you what part of the bike needs to be fixed and exaxctly how far it needs to go.
    For example-Untwist the steering head-front axle centre across 15mm to the left or. Swingarm bent, rear wheel across 10mm to right.
    How you fix it is up to you provided its repaired in a tradesman like and safe manner. It pays to do your sums -sometimes its better to replace the part thats bent --as long as its not the frame WARNING replaceing a swingarm can end up being a frustrating waste of effort. A second hand swingarm is likely from a damaged bike so might be as bent as th one you removed.
    Once its fixed you need to call the engineer who will reinspect the bike to make sure its straight.
    Once he is all happy he will issue you with his engineers report saying the bike is straight.
    This will cost you $200-$300 depending on the engineer. This is generally a one off fee including any rechecking needed after the first inspection but do check first.
    At this point I must comment that some engineers are prepared to look at the REPAIRED bike so if for example the front wheel is buckled or the swingarm is bent you can fix it before he looks at it. same with twisted rear subframes or front subframes--but again CHECK first with your engineer.
    I] Next take the bike to a bike shop who will issue you with a brake certificate. This will cost you $50-$150 depending on the shop [/I]
    A brake cert means they measure all the brakes to ensure everything is above minimum thickness and all lines etc are operating as they should.
    OR--you could ask your engineer to issue one This will cost you $50-$150
    (If you can get the form and have an accurate set of calipers you can do this yourself.)

    NOW bolt all the plastics.tank etc back on.
    BEFORE-taking the bike any further make sure all the indicator,tailights and headlight have standards marks on em. Make sure the headlight (s) points where they are soposed to and that the bike is up to WOF standard Tyre,chain,swingarm,steering head and wheel bearing wise. Also make sure all footpegs etc are secure.
    A WORD OF WARNNG--Once you take your bike for compliance you only have 28 days to rectify any /all faults otherwise you have to get it reinspected--and pay the compliance fee again --so it pays to make sure it WILL pass

    Woohoo --now with your bike and all your paperwork head to the nearest MOTORCYCLE compliance center.-Not all car compliance centers do bikes
    They will now sting you about $150-$250 to inspect the bike.
    Once this is done You will be handed a brand new WOF and a blue piece of paper called an MR2A --This bit of paper means your bike is safe to be on the roads in NZ and all you need to do is register it.
    Take your MR2a to the nearest Testing station and hand them your Filled out MR2A (you fill out your details like a normal rego form)
    Pay them $230 and they will hand you a shiney new number plate and a rego sticker for 6 months rego . -or pay a bit more for 12 months
    JOB DONE
    So accident damaged bike will cost you $600-$800 to get back on the road PLUS the cost of any repairs needed.
    U] Worth a mention-[/U] Quite often for bikes you can take your bike to a VTNZ or AA compliance center who will do the COMPLIANCE from start to finish for you as long as you have the paperwork (including brake cert and engineers report) in order. . This can save a bit of hassle and possibly a few $


    Option 4 MODIFIED BIKES.
    This is where you NEED to be on really good terms with a bike structural engineer.
    Right from the begining you need him on board with your project.
    He will tell you what he needs from you and at what stage of the build he needs to see the bike.
    If the bike is MODIFIED structurally in any way from stock then the engineer will make sure everything works in a safe manner ,that the work itself is sound and sutable for the purpose for which it is intended . Any welding done in critical component areas needs to be certified as sound. The certifyer then will issue a low volume build plate whick gets stuck to the bike. The plate specifically lists the modifacations made. The cost of this varies from $100 up depending on the amount of work the engineer ends up doing.
    This will not affect the registration if the bike has current rego If it is deregistered then refer to the appropriate information listed above.
    As a really good rule of thumb if the work is within the stuctural area of the bike --thats the triangle from the back of the back wheel forward to front wheel (not tyre) up to and including the steering head then back down the frame to the back wheel including the swingarm You NEED an engineer to certify the work.
    TO BE CLEAR-changing exhausts, internal fork components,cosmetics and rear shock replacement with shock/shocks of same/similar characteristics are not normally concidered to be structural.

    If Your bike seems to be ina grey area then I would contact the motor vehicle registration contact centre on 0800 108 809.or write to them: NZ Transport Agency, Transport Registry Centre, Private Bag 11777, Palmerston North 4442.
    To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?

  3. #3
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    To date we have had a good response - could be another one or two - but this should give you good coverage.>>
    All these Certifiers are actually doing MOTORCYCLE certification - most have done a few this year. Alex Gee is the person focussed on Motorcycles.

    Alex is actually a LVVTA member too. All the others are Light Vehicle.>>
    1. Bob Kistemaker Auckland vrc@actrix.co.nz >>
    2. Alex Gee " geeam@ihug.co.nz >>
    3. Ewan Clark " cardata@xtra.co.nz >>
    4. Tony Christieson Hamilton tonyspanelshop@xtra.co.nz >>
    5. Wayne Sowry Tauranga wsowry@xtra.co.nz >>
    6. Alan Collins Taupo forsterpb@xtra.co.nz >>
    7. Allan Kellett Gisbourne allan@kol.co.nz >>
    8. Terry Price Wanganui Restorations-Unlimited@xtra.co.nz >>
    9. Roger Greaney Napier ccr1@xtra.co.nz >>
    10. Deane McMillan Wellington demcmillan@actrix.co.nz >>
    11. Dave Bunn ChCh d.bunn@xtra.co.nz >>
    12. Daniel Robin " daniel@drcollision.co.nz >>
    13. Doug Ledbrook " doug@perfectautobody.co.nz >>
    14. Alan Henderson Timaru brownandshipman@xtra.co.nz >>
    15. Peter Fraser Dunedin actionpanel@xtra.co.nz >>
    16. Dave Shierlaw Invercargill precisionpanels@woosh.co.nz>>
    To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by FROSTY View Post
    bumpyyeeeeeeee
    I have certified my own brakes twice now.Interesting thing is that all you need is the form(ask bike shop for one).The law with cert is that the calipers must be measured by competent person.This does not mean it has to be bike shop.You must list the min disc spec wear limit and measure with calipers.Then record your results and sign form.Be aware that false declaration is not advised cause they look at the brakes when doing warrent.
    Also bikes pre 1991 do not require brake declaration at all.

    VTNZ charged me $320 dollars for the last one I did(note rego has risen since then).This figure included 6months rego and new plate and warrent of fitness.This was on a lapsed expired plate bike with vin number only.
    There was no pre inspection at $300.
    All the inspection is part of warrent which gets done at same time.
    Crash damage bikes need further inspections.

  5. #5
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    If your bike was registered after 1992 then you dont need the brake cert. take it to vtnz and if its all wof standard its $175 for wof plus compliance, then add on the 3 or 6 months rego on top of that
    Thats whats up.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ready4whatever View Post
    If your bike was registered after 1992 then you dont need the brake cert. take it to vtnz and if its all wof standard its $175 for wof plus compliance, then add on the 3 or 6 months rego on top of that
    Min new plate rego is 6months and only other option is 12months.
    Bike produced after and during 1991 required brake de and pre 91 do not.
    Please note that I have done 7 dead plate bikes in last 3 years.

  7. #7
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    If the engineer says the frame is bent or the swingarm is bent then it needs to be straightened.
    NOT something I reccomend you get into yourself.
    I recomend Djebe Bruin In Auckland.
    Or of course our old mate SHAUN HARRIS from MOTO DYNAMICS
    Either one of these folks are pretty darn good at getting bent things straight.
    Of course Shaun is also able to pick up your bike (virtually) north island wide and deliver it back to you all ready for reinspection.
    To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mossy1200 View Post
    I have certified my own brakes twice now.Interesting thing is that all you need is the form(ask bike shop for one).The law with cert is that the calipers must be measured by competent person.This does not mean it has to be bike shop.You must list the min disc spec wear limit and measure with calipers.Then record your results and sign form.Be aware that false declaration is not advised cause they look at the brakes when doing warrent.
    Also bikes pre 1991 do not require brake declaration at all.

    VTNZ charged me $320 dollars for the last one I did(note rego has risen since then).This figure included 6months rego and new plate and warrent of fitness.This was on a lapsed expired plate bike with vin number only.
    There was no pre inspection at $300.
    All the inspection is part of warrent which gets done at same time.
    Crash damage bikes need further inspections.
    Sorry dude I was getting all the info down and then getting the $$$ from my records --ya jumped da gun
    To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by FROSTY View Post
    Sorry dude I was getting all the info down and then getting the $$$ from my records --ya jumped da gun
    Thats cool the brake dec is just 91 onwards and the form is just an A4 sheet that i got from the local bike shop and photo copied a few so i had spares.
    Sign your own if you feel competent.

    VTNZ in Newtown Welly did my last one for $320 with 6months rego and warrent included but would expect this would be $40 higher as the rego has gone up $80 per year now.

    Police declaration is free but no point going in without either the old plate number or chasis number.They just check its not stolen or courts are not trying to sieze it on a court order from unpaid debt that had it as security against.FREE unlike doing 61 in 50 zone.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by FROSTY View Post
    Sorry dude I was getting all the info down and then getting the $$$ from my records --ya jumped da gun
    Dont you hate it when someone jumps on your thread when your editing.LOL
    Someone usually quotes me before I check my spelling.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mossy1200 View Post
    Thats cool the brake dec is just 91 onwards and the form is just an A4 sheet that i got from the local bike shop and photo copied a few so i had spares.
    ...

    Is that the one that is in the Entry Certification Manual on the LTSA site?
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion View Post
    Is that the one that is in the Entry Certification Manual on the LTSA site?
    No thats for fresh imports.
    Five steps to reregistering a vehicle
    Step 1
    Take the vehicle to a TSD agent with proof that it has been previously registered in New Zealand and that you're the person entitled to reregister the vehicle.

    The proof of previous registration can be old registration papers or documentation that verifies the vehicle's VIN or chassis number, eg registration plates and a warrant of fitness checksheet, or registration plates and insurance policy documents that show the VIN or chassis number.

    The TSD agent will need to be satisfied that these documents demonstrate that the vehicle, when originally registered, was designed and constructed according to the requirements applying at that time. For example, vehicles manufactured before 1991 don't need to meet as many vehicle standards.

    Step 2
    The TSD agent will inspect the vehicle, attach a VIN to it if necessary, and issue a record of certification for compliance with registration requirements. The TSD agent will charge a fee for the vehicle inspection and certification. Information about the vehicle will be added to the motor vehicle register.

    Step 3
    The vehicle qualifies for a warrant of fitness from the date it passes the TSD agent's inspection.

    Step 4
    The TSD agent can reregister and license the vehicle for you so that you can legally drive it on the road. The reregistration and licensing fee includes the cost of the new registration plates and the necessary licence labels. The vehicle can be reregistered immediately by the TSD agent, or within the period for which the record of certification is valid.

    Step 5
    Your vehicle may be driven on the road when it has its new registration plates, licence label, warrant of fitness label and (if applicable) RUC licence attached.

    Note: Until the reregistration and relicensing process is complete, a vehicle can't be driven on the road – it must be towed or transported by another means.

    The process may be more complicated and costly if the vehicle has been structurally damaged, deteriorated or modified in a way which could affect its safety performance, and the TSD agent refers it to a specialist certifier.

    •Call our motor vehicle registration contact centre on 0800 108 809.
    •Write to us: NZ Transport Agency, Transport Registry Centre, Private Bag 11777, Palmerston North 4442.

  13. #13
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    Can this be made a sticky please

    Seems to come up regularly
    May be it ciuld be in the wiki ??
    The project bike builders motto: The perfect is the enemy of the good

    GS 500 page includes wiki : http://www.gstwin.com/

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by FROSTY View Post
    If the engineer says the frame is bent or the swingarm is bent then it needs to be straightened.
    NOT something I reccomend you get into yourself.
    I recomend Djebe Bruin In Auckland.
    Or of course our old mate SHAUN HARRIS from MOTO DYNAMICS
    Either one of these folks are pretty darn good at getting bent things straight.
    Of course Shaun is also able to pick up your bike (virtually) north island wide and deliver it back to you all ready for reinspection.


    Thanks for the plug Frosty.
    I fear the day technology will surpass our human interaction. The world will have a generation of idiots! ALBERT EINSTEIN

  15. #15
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    I have vinned one bike I brought with me from overseas, and another I bought and put on the road here - my current bike. It is 1982 and they made me get the brake cert even though I protested at the time - thanks for clarifying it. They do not understand their own rules ... the English, I mean.
    "May all your traffic lights be green and none of your curves have oncoming semis in them." Rocky, American Biker.
    "Those that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin, 18th C.

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