New vac and fuel hoses, new filter, I'd pull the tap apart, and pull it off the tank.
Replace the HT lead, multimeter is no use for HT, could be fine at a standstill missing under revs/load. I'd suspect ALL the HT leads. Also clean the coils.
New vac and fuel hoses, new filter, I'd pull the tap apart, and pull it off the tank.
Replace the HT lead, multimeter is no use for HT, could be fine at a standstill missing under revs/load. I'd suspect ALL the HT leads. Also clean the coils.
Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
Thanks for this. As you point out my blue lovely is not a modern bike, she is 1991, not early eighties though. It is basically an XJ600 motor fed by 4 Mikuni Carbs. I am not seeking expert advice on the bike as such, just on a very basic, old fashioned fuel supply system. No fancy fuel injection for my blue lovely. I dont need a specialist forum to ask this question, I am certain that there will be someone along in a few minutes who can help me.
Like I said in my earlier posts I am not prepared to take the carbs to bits, with my limited tools and lack of equipment to balance them once I put them back, that I will leave for someone with the correct gear, though your link may well suit someone that has better physical resources than me.
Drinking wine I can manage really well..LOL
Thank you for this.
Do you know how to use itHmmmm, decisions, decisions. You know where I live eh?
He also wiped my brow, provided moral support and used his brute strength to pull the friggen tank off its mounts when I could not. Would never have got as far as I did without him
Can you buy individual leads? Shit I am a real dummie here. My plan was to go to the shop tomorrow and buy a few bits and pieces. But seriously, will any of these things I found wrong today fix my problem?
Yep, Supercheap have individual leads, of varying lengths. A car sparky can also sell you just a length of HT wire and a plug cap to fit it. This is assuming thta you have sensible HT arrangements. Some manufacturers do all sorts of silliness like moulding the leads directly onto the coils and such. Inspect, and see.
Yes, any or all of the points raised could lead to misfiring, flat spots , rough running and general ain't rightednesss.
Or, the actual problem may be none of the above.
But, point is, you HAVE found things that are defective. No point in searching for more complex, unknown, issues until you've fixed what's known to be wrong.
If fixing the known defects doesn't fix it, time to peel off the next layer of the onion.
Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
Harley Davidson: The most efficient way to convert gasoline into noise without the side effects of horsepower.
'Fast' Harleys are only fast compared to stock Harleys.
Thank you. I am suspicious of all of the things I found today. Frankly, if I looked closer I could have and even may have noticed other things that will contribute too.
OK, well the leads go to a junction box, they dont appear to have any connectors. I guess I best go and have a bit more of a read, knowing my luck they are part of a unit. Electics I will not even attempt, though apparently if you know what you are doing are amazingly easy peasy.
Yes, it was down there for a couple of months. I left her there as she really played up on the way down, I even ended up pushing her at one point. At some points I wondered if I should find a friendly farmer to look after her till I found a trailer to pick her up. However, with a fresh tank of gas she ran fine. Then did the same trick the next day, I was not prepared to ride nearly 500 k's home on her incase I got stuck on the side of the road somewhere.
Prior to that though she has sat for a bit here, so nothing new really. She got a new set of spark plugs down there, along with a new chain and a seat recover and got up here with out breaking down. Since I have had her home I have been out several times, and each time she has just been not nice to ride.
Decided to change the fuel and it made such a big difference I just had to investigate further.
I realise the bike isn't early eighties, however the engine is based on the XJ550 which which came out in 1981, this engine was revised in 83 when the XJ600 came out which was basically a bored and stroked 550 engine and still shares bits with the later Yamaha Diversion
I'm after a head with cams and carbs off a 600 if anyone has one stashed away what was your address again?
With my 550 when I had a problem with it missing after sitting for a year or so I also dumped a bottle of wynns injector cleaner in the fuel tank within 30-40km it was running sweet again
Some of the leads can't be replaced individually as they are moulded into the coil, if the coils are the same as the earlier bikes I can send you a spare one to try
Hmmmm, I happen to have a large swag of bits a pieces downstairs for this blue lovely, some are wrapped in newspaper and I have no idea what I have. I will investigate today and let you know if any head/carby spares are in there. And I may even have coils thinking on, I know I have cables. Thanks for this.
If you do all the bits that you have found, it will eliminate alot of variables, possibly a combination of all the above is your problem, but certainly fixing what you have found will go along way to finding the cure, if not being the cure. Good on ya Mom for having a go, though the hammer in the 3rd pic is not an advisable carb adjusting tool.
Don't hesitate to strip the carbs down to bare-bones, it's a very simple and basic nuts and bolts exercise. Actually well suited for females with their skills and deft touch, whereas the male of the species tends to have clumsy sausage-fingers. Remove the whole bank of carbs but DONT seperate them individually.
Tip the gas outta them and plonk em' inside on the kitchen table to casually work on them at your own pace. You're basically just checking things out in there looking for anything worn, uneven, or jets/circuits clogged with debris or gunk.
Balancing is simply the act of setting the throttle plate(butterfly) to sit exactly over the pinhole that delivers the fuel from the idle/pilot circuit. You'll see where the closed butterfly sits, and it's slightly covering that pinhole. When you open the butterfly a bit more, a couple more pinholes behind are exposed to the airflow which flow more gas. You want the butterfly to cover 2/3rds of the FRONT pinhole allowing 1/3rd of the pinhole to flow gas. Talking tiny tiny measurements but you can pre-sync the butterflys by eye easily. The human eye is an accurate enough instrument. Gauges will fine tune the end result but the eyeball method is accurate enough in the real world. ( Gauges are good though)
PS. splits in vac-hoses always cause stumbling and rough running
Didn't know the Little beast was still really misbehaving. That's women for you, I guess....
Couldn't get her to run on three or anything like that, whilst here. No missing or so on. Just an annoying, relatively minor, surge at constant throttle settings....ie, cruising at 80/90/100kph. Shift the throttle setting (close or open more) and the result was totally normal behaviour. Until the speed settled into a new constant. Then the surge returned. To me, that says the engine is starving for gas - maybe through the lowspeed jets. These are the ones that can be adjusted using the mixture control screws (which I was unable to locate without removing the carbs, and we didn't want to go there at the time). The diaphrams are fine, or it wouldn't run properly at any throttle position and most particularly at accelerating settings. None of the things you've found would be the cause of the missing etc, but they perhaps wouldn't help. I say that because, if any of them were the cause, then the problem would be worse under load. A bad HT lead, or blocked fuel filter would really shit themselves under load, but not necessarily with a lowload constant speed. If the vacuum hose was leaking, the tap diaphram would not opening enough to supply sufficient fuel, but with the throttle opened up more, the resulting vacuum increase would open the tap...BUT, the already low level of petrol in the carby bowls wouldn't be enough to provide an instant response. See where I am going with this?
I still think the problem lies inside the carbs. If I remember right, she's done some 90,000kms? Plenty enough to have considerable wear in the various jets, or for gunge to have concreted everything. I think you need to get those carbs stripped, checked, cleaned and reset.
Of course, the resulting increase in power will mean the clutch will be next for attention...![]()
Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?
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