Changing chain when swapping wheels?

[cynna]

i was thinking of running my bike with a set of motard wheels as well as my off road ones .i have to get rid of one of my bikes but still want the best of both worlds. i wont be changing the wheels that often - just once in a while

the main hassle i can think of is needing 2 chains for the different sized sprockets

i have read some older threads which were helpful but still have a couple of questions

how difficult is it to change chains? i wont be planing on swapping to often but have never done it before

is it best to rivit the chain or use a master link?

any recomendations on chain tools? so far im looking at the drc pro chain tool if anyone has any feed back on that

thanks

[vifferman]

A riveted master link is more secure, but I ran a clip-type link on my VTR1000 for many moons (it was on the bike when I bought it) with no drama. For added security, you can lock-wire it on.

[clint640]

Swappping chains is a bit of a pain, but not too bad if you have a good chain breaker/press tool.
If the bike has a decent range of adjustment, & you set the chain length so the adjuster is right forward on the low gearing, & you swap to a bigger front sprocket as well as a smaller back you might find you can raise the gearing enough without having to change the chain.
On my bike I just swap between a 14T & a 16T front, But if I wanted a wider spread I could run 17/40 for the road & 14/45 for the dirt on the same chain.

Cheers
Clint

[Taz]

My 525has huge adjustment for the chain and offset reversable axle blocks. I run 15/45 with the knobblies and 15/42 with the motard wheels same chain at 112 link. I can also run 14/48 for pure offroad riding with the same chain.

[bart]

I've run all sorts of gearing, from 13/48 to 15/39, on the DRZ. At times I've had 2 joiners, as I've had to add a couple of links to the chain. Never had a problem............yet (ticking time bomb springs to mind).

[Frodo]

any recomendations on chain tools? so far im looking at the drc pro chain tool if anyone has any feed back on that

I have one of those. Easy to use. I file down the heads of pins before I press them out. Probably not necessary, but makes it easier. The rivetted heads of the joining link seem secure.

Cheers

[warewolf]

how difficult is it to change chains? i wont be planing on swapping to often but have never done it before

is it best to rivit the chain or use a master link?

I wouldn't even think about doing this with a rivet link. They are a permanent, one-time use thing. You've have to break the chain at another normal link and replace with a new rivet link. $$$

So you'd best run a clip link. Then the choice becomes: do you run two chains of different lengths, or merely add a short length of chain with a second clip link? The former is probably best if you have a second pair of sprockets.

I would run a second front sprocket rather than a second chain, as the front sprocket is the weakest link (works hardest, wears fastest, and when worn will take the chain then rear sprocket with it) so having several of them will extend the life of the chain & rear sprocket.

[cynna]

thanks for the info

looks like the master link will be the way to go as i have a second shorter chain and the xr hasnt got that great a range of adjustment

havent had to put one on since my xl125s days about 20 years ago so will need some practice before i can do it quickly lol

[Waihou Thumper]

out near Mangakino one day. I went to overtake and it spat out the back leaving me revving in fifth and going nowhere fast! I spent four hours out there trying to hitch hike home...
The guys stored the bike in the pwer station for me and I picked it up the next morning.
The link broke in another place, not the riveted joining link.
Anyway, my trusty knowledgeable mechanic at the time riveted the link on for me, this has lasted a long long time. When I did replace it I had to break the chain in another place, so in effect you have two weak points - Rivet join and the new join.
I bought a joing master link and have a spare, I find these really good and have them on all three bikes. Stick to the master link, make sure is on facing the right way....open end facing to the rear, looks like a fish...(I got told that analogy)
Thing is, the bikes we use for ADV riding etc get a bit more punishment as the chain is stretched and bouncing more often than a sedate nice tar seal riding machine, tension is important and the joining link has got to be put on properly.
I will use them again and again, it is easier to fix in the field too.....