Looking great..... Only a year eh? I've had a honda QA50 waiting for assembly for 10 years now..... Maybe I should pull it out of the attic and make a start.
Looking great..... Only a year eh? I've had a honda QA50 waiting for assembly for 10 years now..... Maybe I should pull it out of the attic and make a start.
MY OHLINS ARRIVED!!!
well - the Ohlins rear shocks arrived a couple of days ago, and i fitted them (well - actually Kerry at motohaus helped as the spacers needed turning down to fit).
I met Postie and Cibby Chick today at Motohaus too - nice to put faces to the names.
Anyway - back to my new Ohlins....
THEY ARE INCREDIBLE.
The really stunning thing is how much smoother the bike is now to ride!
i suppose the "roughness" of a non-balance shafted single is transmitted via the swingarm and the rear shocks do actually dampen that vibration and roughness.
Well - believe it not the new ohlins make the bike feel a lot less rough and much more civilised and comfortable.
i've only ridden the bike home from motohaus, so i'll take it for a decent ride tomorrow, and see if the hadling is as much better as i think it's going to be.
they look totally horndog too.
The new shocks are 10mm longer and hopefully they will help the bike steer a little sharper without affecting stability.
so - thatnks for listening.
WOOHOO!
I am Jack's complete lack of remorse .
Awesome dude. Obligatory pictures soon I hope. Look forward to seeing the bike in the flesh someday but not sure how thats gonna work.
"If life gives you a shit sandwich..." someone please complete this expression
well - after ditching the speedo anmd rev counter i have hooked up an LCD cycle computer.
if anyone's interested i could write up the process with a shopping list.
cost about $120 all up .
k
I am Jack's complete lack of remorse .
I'm going to need something like that when I motard the XR, so yes please, write it up if you don't mind.Originally Posted by Badcat
okay - so i wanted to remove the heavy bulky old instruments to get the bar area as simple and light as poss. Also the speedo calibration was going to be way out as the bike had an 18" front wheel originally and the new front end/hub had a speedo drive for a 21" wheel.
so - i originally looked at a trailtech panoram:
http://www.dirtbike.co.nz/images/pro...e_Computer.jpg
but no-one in auckland had one in stock so i did some research and found that they are only really a cycle computer anyway.
i found a very compact and light unit from CATEYE called and Enduro 8.
http://www.cateye.com/en/products/vi...d=6&subCatId=0
it was $60 from a local bike shop (cyco in ponsonby).
of course the standard wire was too short - so i also got the extended cable
Cateye call this the Bracket sensor kit - (long) P/N 169-6565N
also, cycle sensor magnets are useless as you can't get them close enough to the sensor (spokes are too far away for the 5mm range of the sensor)
so i bought the panoram disc rotor bolt with build in magnet:
near the bottom of this page - http://www.dirtbike.co.nz/default.asp?pageid=12#
mounting the sensor on the fork tube (my bike has USD forks) was easy once i had the disc bolt and i simply ran the cable up the brake line to the handlebar area.
i'll post some pics and comments on using the unit later today.
any queries - PM me.
K
I am Jack's complete lack of remorse .
The only problem I had using a cycle comp on the bike was that I couldn't see it at night. Has yours got a light or something?
Andy.
no - it's not illuminated and that's its only drawback.
i'm trying to find an other cateye model with a light - that takes the same cradle.
will post my findings...
k
I am Jack's complete lack of remorse .
A little black hood with a LED would be a simple way to light it only need a resistor and a LED hooked in to the Lighting loom!?
maybe even I could make that.Originally Posted by sAsLEX
any idea what value LED and resistor i'd need?
I am Jack's complete lack of remorse .
here's the computer on the bike.
now i need to tidy up the gap where the instruments were and make some new brackets for the headlight.
i wangt to move the ignition ket to under the tank also to simplify the handlebar area.
also a pic of the sensor - you can't see the magnet bolt but it's in place of tone of the disc fasteners.
I am Jack's complete lack of remorse .
Looking Good! You could alwats get one of these for Illumination
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...n-57926405.htm
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView....=&SUBCATID=573Originally Posted by Badcat
any would do depending on the colour and size you were after, but you need to restrict the current through it to avoid burning out.
See that one has a forward voltage of 2 which means 2 volts will drop across emitting light and the other 10-13 will have to be dissapated by the Resistor.
As V=I*R, and the current you want through the LED is 30mA (from their datasheet) 13/30*10^-3 = 433
now since you cant get all values of resitor just pick one thats close.
Most DSE geeks should now what your after if you go in and ask.
Or you could go a bit crazy and copy this http://saslex.orcon.net.nz/LED_DRIVE.JPG
Originally Posted by sAsLEX
what is THAT?
I am Jack's complete lack of remorse .
So are you coming on the ride?
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