No need to dismantle, paint or otherwise go mad
Like SuperDave said, kerosene is the BEST by far.
Use that, and a toothbrush on your chain, swingarm, foot pegs, exhaust pipes/can, engine case, wheel rims or literally anywhere you want to clean. The only place I
don't use kerosene on is the paintwork (fairings and tank), plastics/soft materials (controls, seat, instruments, etc...) and brake pads.
For that, and everything else after the kerosene, use a good wash/degreaser. CT-18 is a wonder product. Got it recommended to me by Andrew at Roadsafe, and haven't looked back since. Simple, rinse bike off, spray a concentrated solution EVERYWHERE on bike (after kerosene rounds), leave for 20 mins, rinse off again, wash with less concentrated solution and cloth, rinse off, chamois dry, oil (chain, moveable parts), polish, silicone (
just about everything except fairings and tank), pledge (windscreen, headlights and wheel rims - takes any micro scratches out of the screen, protects rims and makes all 3 look mint) and you're set. Clean, protected bike that will stay that way since ages ago! (Like L&P)
PS: The silicone not only protects, but improves the look as well. Some bike shops spray the whole bike in silicone to improve looks for potential customers. I wouldn't do that, prefer polish on paint but both work I guess.
Does run, and then wash off in the rain tho, but thats ok since I know ALL of you wash your bike after it's been in the rain
*EDIT* Forget about a "strong soap". Trust me, no soap is strong enough to remove the crud around the chain, back wheel and swingarm. The kerosene even dissolves tar which gets stuck there after rides on hot days. Some stubborn marks may not come off with the first contact of the toothbrush (yes, use this, best for accessability/abrasiveness combination). For those, dip the toothbrush in kerosene, scrub the mark and leave for 5 mins, possibly re-applying kerosene on after a min or two. When you come back and scrub, it will come right off.
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