The carbed SV really needs re-tuning when you change the exhaust.
The enrichening jets can sometimes stick in the carbs.
Ray Clee or Triplezee Dyno in Auckland would be worth talking to
What you have in your heart will be revealed through what you have in your life.
If things are going badly in our circumstances, the answer to what is happening to us outwardly is more often than not found in the mirror.
Have you been using the choke to start the bike?
I use it to start it but always turn it off afterwards. Most of the time it really struggles to start without the choke.
What you have in your heart will be revealed through what you have in your life.
If things are going badly in our circumstances, the answer to what is happening to us outwardly is more often than not found in the mirror.
A jet kit fitted in conjunction with the dyno time will sort it.
It's worth paying a few bucks to have it done right.
We used to have a K1 SV650S in this household... I fitted a full yoshi system and a K&N filter. I got Brian Bernard to fit the dynojet kit, and optimise it on a dyno. Brian got the bike fuelling very nicely
Can you please pull the plugs out and see what the business end looks like? I have a funny feeling the plugs are culprit. They fit the description you give.
Darklord, I was just checking back to this thread, and another thing occured to me. I had a problem with my roundy, with rusting of the choke cables after the splitter, right inside the steel bend where the cable enters the carb. The cable rusted in the bend and siezed the cable with one or both chokes choke part open. I fixed it with new stainless steel cable from the bicylce parts bin in my garage.
After opening the choke to start the bike, the choke would stay open even tho the lever was returned.
How did you get on with your issue? You didn't call or PM me after I sent you the links to Catpoopman's site.
I'm 99% sure I have this sorted now.
A few people mentioned that they wondered if it was running slightly rich. Not much but a little. So I ended up getting the carbies adjusted to lean it up slightly. I took it out to my place of work and back today (about 30 k's each way) and despite a minute hiccup here and there it didn't cough, splutter or surge at all.
I actually wonder if what has been happening is that as I've been sitting at a certain rev range for a time, the carburetor has been slowly filling up with extra fuel, and once I have opened it up a bit more, it has just coughed and spluttered on the extra fuel until it finally got through all of it and returned to normal, hence the surging sensation. This would also explain the flood of brown shit that came out of the exhaust when I ran some carburetor cleaner through it.
I may be completely wrong but that is my hypothesis anyway.
What you have in your heart will be revealed through what you have in your life.
If things are going badly in our circumstances, the answer to what is happening to us outwardly is more often than not found in the mirror.
DarkLord,
do you know exactly what was adjusted? Perhaps the bike is not stock, but someone has been in the carbs before you.
If the bike is still stock except the open pipe, it will go Heaps better if you change the stock 137.5 mainjets for 142.5 mainjets, raise the needles 1 or 2 shims (1 or 2 x 3mm washers), and adjust the idle jets to 2.5 turns out. These bikes have a lean flat-spot and retarded ignition in gears two and three, and it's easy and quite interesting to fix.
Read the stuff I sent you. I'm not sure why you didn't give me a call, there is a lot I could tell you, and I actually know what I'm talking about.
A carb can't 'slowly fill with fuel' unless the needle valve is badly worn, and if it is, you need to fix it. The float level is fundamental to correct carb operation. This issue is discussed in detail in the material I sent you, too. Did you ever read it?
DarkLord, did you read any of the stuff I sent you?
Sorting out the carbs on these bikes is not rocket science. It's all been done before. The keen guys who bought the early ones did all the experimentation, the dyno runs, etc, and they wrot it all down, so guys like you could benefit from it, if you you can be bothered.
You don't need a dynojet kit (expensive) or an aftermarket air filter, unless it's dirty, in which case get a Suzuki one, they are better than the others. You don't really need to take it to a dyno unless you are after really sharp performance.
You DO need to read the manual and notes I sent you, get a few basic tools, buy about $30 worth of jets, a few washers, and strip and service your carbs yourself.
You need two mainjets, 140 or 142.5, and 4 x 3mm washers, about 0.020" thick. And adjust the idle jets 2.5 turns out, after drilling out the plugs. It's all in the stuff I sent you.
If the carbs are dirty, strip and clean them. If a flood of crap came out the exhaust, imagine how much sh*t is still in them!
I have 6yrs experience with the 01-02 SV650, and there is a lot I could help you with, but you can't be bothered ringing. From your recent post, I doubt you read anything I sent you, either.
Breakaway says it's a stock bike, so unless it was made in a different factory on a different day, it will have the same issues as all the other SVs ever made.
Also since that SV650S is canadian spec, it has a different shaped airbox. Trying to fit a K&N airfilter won't work. A mate of mine has a canadian spec bike, and he had to get a air filter made up since the K&N replacement filter wouldn't fit. This is because the canadian spec ones have different size fuel tanks than the other SV650S.
If the pipe is non standard I'd suspect that for a flatspot. Up the jetting one size, or two, that's what I'd try. Or, do you have the original pipes to test?
"May all your traffic lights be green and none of your curves have oncoming semis in them." Rocky, American Biker.
"Those that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin, 18th C.
I recently bought another SV650S (because they're such great bikes I couldn't keep away from themfor the Mrs). This is a 2002 SV650S with standard exhaust / air filter and 12,000 km on the clock (12,000 legit kms too!) After her first ride on it, she bitched to me about a flat spot. I looked at her like she was silly, because I just raped and pillaged it back from wellington the previous day and it didn't skip a single beat for over 600km.
So I went out to ride it with her on the back to try to figure out this 'flat spot'. I accelerated like I normally do, and there was no surging or anything. Asked her "What the hell are you talking about? There's no flat spot here". She said "Slow down a little, accelerate slowly like I would". So I did. And lo and behold, the bike surges (very slightly) between 3500 and 5000rpm. But this was with VERY slight acceleration. Mind you I'm no hoon when I'm accelerating (I accelerate at somehwat a brisk pace (I can't eplxain this to you.. you have to figure it out yourself). I just twist the throttle more.
So maybe that's your problem? Does using more throttle solve the problem?
the problem is solved by fitting bigger jets, and a few other minor adjustments. See my post on the 22nd Jan, just above. This flat spot is well known and the fix is well documented. You will find that if you do the mods the bike will pull like a schoolboy, across the entire rev range, especially up hills and two-up.
If you want a copy of an excellent document on the subject, by MickK of SVDownUnder, PM me. Mick wrote this up, building on the work done by John Callaghan, England (aka catpoopman)
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