What a knob: Came off today

[Hahn]

I'm guessing my bike would be doing about 3kRPM (maybe 4kRPM) in sixth at 70km/h. It is gutless with the revs that low.

Or are you saying that you need only a tiny amount of power to achieve 40/60?

That's it exactly.

[steve_t]

Basically the theory is if you take the total contact patch of both your tyres, you optimally want 40% of the total contact patch being made with the front tyre, and 60% wth the rear tyre. This gives you the most grip. And you can only achieve this by having positive throttle.

I remember when you wrote this some time last year. It has helped me with cornering immensely along with the countersteering thread from ages ago. The main help was because I was braking entering the corner and only rolled the throttle on midcorner which doesn't afford a smooth corner. Now I tend to get off the brakes earlier and roll on the throttle early and the bike is so much more stable and I reckon I can carry a little more speed through the corner
Like I said before, lesson learnt. Time to move forward

[Jonno.]

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[OutForADuck]

So this is my question. Lets say you do experience a rear wheel lock through either a change down or compression lock (sorry Mom, still haven't figured out what that is yet), and especially considering your about to enter a corner, do you think your better to:

* Apply more power to start the wheel rotating again
* Engage the clutch so the wheel spins freely, but accept the bikes suspension will now be upset, the front wheel is suddenly going to load up, and as a result most of the bikes traction is going to now be reliant on the front wheel rather than split between the two.

My personal guess would be to apply more throttle, which is what I did. After reading the Keith Code books I think he would also agree.

However comments on here have me wondering if this was the wrong approach. Your thoughts, and most importantly, why. And in case it varies between bikes, I'd prefer answers more tailored to a sports bike.

Throttle... a lock due to a botched downshift is only temporary... so it will spin even if you don't get on the throttle.

Soooo... don't agressively screw on the power... just add it like you intended too... make sure the wheel is turning before you do (unless you are comfortable with backing it in and you a bit off that at the moment dude). If you are getting your braking over and done with in a straight line you have time for all this, trailing brake is an advanced technique and probably best left on the track.

So roll on throttle, get it hooked up and take the corner.. you may have a different line now, but you have allowed room for this on the road right?

[Katman]

This thread is a prime example of someone not being able to figure out that the only way 'skills' learned at a trackday or ART day have any valuable transferance to the road are as a means to help get you out of danger - not for putting yourself in a position of increased danger.

[imdying]

p.dath, what you need is a new Fireblade

No matter how badly you abuse it down through the box, the slipper clutch prevents the rear wheel from locking up. You don't need to 'crack the throttle open a little', it does that for you too (MV F4s do it to IIRC). You can't lock the brakes, it's combined ABS. You don't have to apply throttle when filtering up through lines of traffic, it does that for you automatically. Still no self cancelling indicators, but you can't have everything. Telepathic link between brain and bike appears to be standard, but no mention of it in the sales literature. All those gizmos, and it still weighs a good few pies less than all the other whales in the class.

Some faggot will soon pop in to say that it's too much bike blah blah blah... ignore the fun police, they can suck it.




Seriously though, all that crap will be standard on everything (600 and thou sportsbikes) in 3-4 years... surely this will eat at the learning of basic skills in new riders?? I mean, everyone needs to at least learn how to control a snaking rear wheel on a hard braking bike, even if the newer bikes don't do it any more.

[jared]

Ummm,
Nope.

It means he gives the throttle a twist to increase engine revs to match the lower gear.
This reduces the chances of the engine braking locking the rear....

Thank yoooooou. Yelled the mouse from his house

[John_H]

Can someone tell me what blipping is please!

[sil3nt]

http://www.sportrider.com/ride/rss/1...tle/index.html

[R-Soul]

Compression lock up is this: When your engine is doing teh driving of tehback wheel, it comprsses air/fuel and ignites it to create drive at eth wheel. But without the throttle on, and the clutch engaged, the back wheel is driving rotation of the engine. The engine ceases to work as an engine, and starts acting like a compressor, comprssing air in the cylinders and pushing it out the exhaust. It takes effort to compress teh air. this effort is taken from the kinetic enrgy of the bike driving the back wheel via friction forces at the back wheel. This is why you get engine braking. Sometimes the effort required to overcome teh comprssion resistance in the cylinders is too much for the traction, and the wheel will rather lock up and lose traction than contiue driving the compression.

Hence "compression lock up".

The higher the rev's, the more compression that happens, because of the increased air resistance through the exhaust (higher air speed = increased drag).

You could probably have turned the bars in the direction of the slide if you had dirt bike skills, and saved it (or not- who knows?).

IMO (for what its worth) you probably should not have turned in before changing down, because the compression braking has teh effect of back braking hard in the corner, and destabilises the bike. First change down early, stabilise bike, and then turn in.