On a Motorcycle you're penetrating distance, right along with the machine!! In a car you're just a spectator, the windshields like a TV!!
'Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out! Shouting, ' Holy sh!t... What a Ride!! '
oh damn a double post how did that happen???![]()
On a Motorcycle you're penetrating distance, right along with the machine!! In a car you're just a spectator, the windshields like a TV!!
'Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out! Shouting, ' Holy sh!t... What a Ride!! '
And just when i thought you where going to get your bike all decked out in pink
[SIGPIC][/SIG
Yep that was me, going all good this end. Still hurts to sneeze and I need a trip to the Osteopath BUT I got on my bike yesterday out at the sandpit with a girlfriend and had a great time!!Not particularly fast tho (funnily enuf) scared meself afew times but meh, you get that.
LOL LOL LOL. Cheeky little toad. Gotta luv him. (dont forget I've seen you in your 'village ppl' chaps and dont necessarily believe it was the boy with that post)![]()
WESTIE CHICKS ROCK
video of the westpac pick up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8Wvcirk-m8
thanks Noobi,
NO Its how the power is deliveredWould this not be the case either way? I'd expect that to be the result of lowering the gearing no matter which way it was done? Or is there something about changing it at the rear that does it differently?
Think of it like this if you can
with a 13 t front / assume the back wheel is locked....the bike will climb up the chain easier than it would with a 14 or 15 t front ...
The FINAL ratio between the front and rear may change but thats only going to alter top speed in each gear.
Now you've really got me thinking!
I can see what your saying but I would have still thought that the engine (and therefore the shaft that the front sprocket is mounted to) would still drive the wheel (being where the resistance is) in the same way if the final drive ratio was the same no matter what combination of sprockets was used to acheive this.
I don't doubt your knowledge as I've seen many intelligent posts from you in the past I'm just not seeing the difference, I'm extremely interested in the idea behind it though as I'm looking to get more top end speed out of my RMZ but certainly don't want to lose any more of the explosive wheelstand out of corner power than I need to....
Don't shoot me if this post is a mess, it would have been better a few beers back... Maybe
Assuming the rear wheel is locked, either way the engine will still stall. Maybe a little more possibility to stretch the chain with a smaller front sprocket.
Other factors could be factored into this debate. The cost of a $40 front sprocket over a $120 rear sprocket is a good argument. The clearance between the rear sprocket and the chain guide is another. The requirement to lengthen the chain length could be thrown in. Whether an increase of 2.5 teeth is acceptable or whether you'd want just a 1 rear tooth increase could be another argument.
I'll stick to changing the front sprocket and making that front wheel pop up easier! Done.
no matter how the gearing change is done and the effects on the drive (ie stress on the sprockets). And I think IIIRII theories are correct! ( more on that later).
The effect on the bike will be the same no matter how you change the gearing. You will get more low down grunt! Is this a good thing if your not an expert rider my opinion NO.
You end up fighting the bike more when you don't need to Ie on slippery slopes, in the trees and it will charge ahead out of corners etc. It will be like a bull at a gate! If you want this sort of power delivery go for it but if you want tractable torque stick with the bigger front. Simple as that! Just because you have more instant power doesn't mean you will be faster, you have to be good enough to hit those berms hard and fast so your ride is flowing not losing your momentum in wheel spin and outa control power! You will turn it into an MX bike rather than a enduro bike with this approach. I for one went through this with the CR it was a brilliant bike in the hands of a better rider but for me no where near as predictable or controllable. Up to you but be careful you don't end up with a savage beast your fighting all the time.
Now to IIIRII theories? Putting a 13 on the front IMHO will put more pressure on the rear sprocket. Most people do it this way but I reckon the better way is to do it via the rear and increase the length of the chain to maintain wheelbase length. It is well noted on the net this puts a lot less strain on the drive components. Also if you shorten the wheelbase you will have to fight harder to keep the front on the ground compounding the aggressive gearing. It will also reduce the turning radius of the front sprocket wearing the chain more (from what I have read).
So its up to you, you have our opinion on the effects. Personally I wouldn't do it. The change your talking about would slow me down in all areas other than an open blast along a paddock or a road section!
Just my 2c???
On a Motorcycle you're penetrating distance, right along with the machine!! In a car you're just a spectator, the windshields like a TV!!
'Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out! Shouting, ' Holy sh!t... What a Ride!! '
Na Crisis, I was commenting on Oldschools Ktm 350. Your correct about Greenmachine. There are two guys doin opposite things. LOL!! I haven't ridden Oldschools bike but I think for him going down in the front will make it much more of a handful on the muddy climbs, after riding with him last sunday.
He's after more grunt to overtake my little 2hundy LOL!! I should keep quiet and let him do it but fairs fair!
Just my 2c though even if he tries it its only a front sprocket LOL!!
PS I added a quote to clear up the confusion Sorry mate!
On a Motorcycle you're penetrating distance, right along with the machine!! In a car you're just a spectator, the windshields like a TV!!
'Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out! Shouting, ' Holy sh!t... What a Ride!! '
Ok lets assume we want more top speed
The current ratio between the output shaft and the rear wheel is 14 48 so 48/14 = 3.42 :1
Lets assume this gives 100kph @ 8000 rpm.
You want more top speed you need a lower ratio maybe 15 48 so 48 /15 = 3.2:1 which will give about 5% more top end.
When you lower the top speed by raising the final ratio 13/48 3.7:1 theres more than one way of doinf this .
You can run 13/48 or 14/52 or 15/56 or being sill but still demonstrating what i mean 25/92 these all give the same TOP speed @ the same given RPM.
But like I said before, the way the engine can deliver the power (torque) to the wheel is very different , if you think of the sprocket being a lever , the engine will move the lever with a lot less effort the shorter it is. (smaller radius sprocket) therefore it will initiall move the bike much more reactivley than with a longer lever and it will be more controlable and more progressive.
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