"I am a licenced motorcycle instructor, I agree with dangerousbastard, no point in repeating what he said."
"read what Steve says. He's right."
"What Steve said pretty much summed it up."
"I did axactly as you said and it worked...!!"
"Wow, Great advise there DB."
WTB: Hyosung bikes or going or not.
I had to wait for some new caliper bracket bolts from Japan as my current ones looked shagged.
I've managed to borrow 2 wrenches - a Warren and Brown which is about 15 years old similar to this:
http://www.warrenandbrown.com.au/Use...ge/323500a.jpg
And a more modern Powerbuilt 3/8 drive wrench.
Let the fun begin.
Doesn't get much better than W&B for torque wrenches. Mine's more like 35 years old , but same as.
Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
I used to calibrate them, if they're good they're good, but they can be horribly wrong. Same applies to any torque wrench.
The other thing to bear in mind is that the accuracy is quite often 4% of full scale value, if you're setting them for bugger all on the scale you might as well use a calibrated wrist.
Riding cheap crappy old bikes badly since 1987
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I have an old 1/2" sidchrome clicker torque wrench that I have owned for 30 years and I have just brought a nice new 1/4" one for all those fiddley little things on modern bikes. The front primary sprocket bolt on my HD is tightened to 250ft/lbs which is a bit of a bugger as my 1/2" stopped at 180.
Riding cheap crappy old bikes badly since 1987
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BTW at Beaurepaires a month ago they set the wheel nuts on the car with a torque wrench. The benefit of this is the nuts will not be over tightened so if I get a flat the wrench in the tool kit will undo the nuts.
Unfortunately one torque wrench will not cover the range required on a bike.
You have just answered the question on how to calibrate/check a TW.
Here for the ride.
Thats exactly how I did it in the end. Just by a fluke my weight x the length of my 3/4" socket set strong arm = 250 ft/lbs
Steve, that is dangerous advise you are giving there.
Every single "home mechanic" needs to know that a torque wrench is critical for correct tension of wheel nut, suspension components etc.
Particularly on late model sports bikes, a too loose/too tight axle nut will have a massive effect on handling/safety.
I wonder, when you remove your front suspension, then refit it, do you leave all the fasteners slightly loose, and bounce the front end up and down slightly to alighn everything before correctly torquing all the bolts down?
I challenge that if you did, your bike will handle just that little bit better.
Points taken and conceded.
I know I should use a torque wrench on everything, but I don't, and I've broken my share of things as I tend to err on the tight side. So I'm economising and not using the expensive tools - probably until it's cheaper to do it the expensive way. Ah well..
Steve
"I am a licenced motorcycle instructor, I agree with dangerousbastard, no point in repeating what he said."
"read what Steve says. He's right."
"What Steve said pretty much summed it up."
"I did axactly as you said and it worked...!!"
"Wow, Great advise there DB."
WTB: Hyosung bikes or going or not.
I never used a torque wrench for anything, except critical things like head bolts. But one or two things worked their way lose, or stripped, so I started to use one a lot more.
Its like a GPS in the car. Before you had one, you could find your way most anywhere, with the odd incorrect turn. Once you get GPS, if it doesnt work, you get lost straight away.
So, I have to use a torque wrench all the time now, I don't have even remotely calibrated hands anymore !
It slows me down, and nuts still come off or strip, wish Id never picked the bloody thing up really !
David must play fair with the other kids, even the idiots.
I've always wondered if mechanics actually torque everything. They certainly didn't when reattaching my rear light assembly as i found out when it smashed all over the road!
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