Blasted Triumph

**cc rider** · 19th February 2010, 03:05

1936 Triumph L2/1 (250)

Am (finally) ready to teardown the trump again & get the frame, front end & maybe wheels blasted & coated.
Looking at black powder coating frame & front end & black paint the wheels.
I'm happy with the condition of the frame considering it's original state. I had some welding done to replace a missing section of the frame's cross member under the tank. The frame that came with the bike is rather butchered. Sourced another 250 frame, complete with what I think may be a 500 front end.
I'm looking at using Baking Soda Blasting. Have had stuff sand & bead blasted before, but not tried this. It may be a bit gentler on the old bones.
Not sure if the wheels are worth the trouble & expense. They're pretty rusted & may well have more rust then metal keeping them circular. I don't know how to tell if they'll be too pitted after the blasting, rendering them shyte. would prefer not to have to do too much filling. I know the rust inhibitor can fill some flaws. Is it a try it & see situation?
My other alternatives are to buy 'new' old rims or have some fabricated. I'd prefer to find some original British 19" rims. I'll be re-spoking whatever I end up with.

Questions??
Has anyone every had components Baking Soda blasted?

Is there anything I should do to frame etc before & after blasting?

I'll be doing the teardown tonight, so will flick some pics up then.

Any advice guys will be appreciated as I'm doing this project with no manual, a photocopy of an incomplete parts catologue, plus a few pics off the internet. Oh & bugger all knowledge, but heaps of enthusiasm

If nothing, it will be unique

cheers
CC

spose a pic of the shrimp will help

**YellowDog** · 19th February 2010, 05:02

I know a guy at an ex-customer of mine who completed his restoration a couple of years ago. Leaks oil likee hell but his project was certainly a success. Rides it to work on dry days.

He's down near Howick. I'll ask him if he will be happy to let you borrow his manuals.

Re: baking soda for blasting, it is indeed a softer process however is not as thorough as sand. You'll be surprised about the ancient quality of the rims. Give them a spray of pledge and wipe clean to see just how pitted they are.

I'll PM you about the manual.

**Dodgyiti** · 20th February 2010, 07:13

The frame should get etch primed the same day or day after blasting, you can just buy a spray can of it but rust will set in within hours. The etch primer will hold it until you are ready to coat it.
Never seen results from soda blasting- let us know how that goes. I like vapour blasting for ali casings and parts, gentle and gets right in. I had my engine done, and cleaned up the gearbox myself... no contest, the gear box when hot blead out residue and the engine looks great still, only wish I had got both done for a few extra $$

**avgas** · 20th February 2010, 09:41

I love threads like this - Please update us. Photos etc.
Old is always good. I even like old honda's

**cc rider** · 20th February 2010, 20:54

Right, am in the middle of deflowering the rear wheel. Got the old tyre off on my own. Bloody hell

Axle looks ok. What do ya reckon about the rims, guys?
Baking Soda Blasting lined up for frame, front end, tank, tool box & rims (though I reckon they might need garnet).
Don't need to get parts powdercoated straight away, as Soda leaves a film over the surface.
But will try to get p/coated as soon as I can afford it.
Have a few pics of the proceedings thus far. Tyre removal technique leaves a bit to be desired, I know

**cc rider** · 20th February 2010, 21:21

Thanks Yellowdog, shyte is that what my bike'll look like

Not seen a proper pic of one.
Ta for PMs, will clean up rims a bit tomorrow & talk to blaster dude.

Originally Posted by Dodgyiti

Never seen results from soda blasting- let us know how that goes. I like vapour blasting for ali casings and parts, gentle and gets right in. I had my engine done

Me either Dodgy, but have been recomended this place, as he does hotrods etc. I'll see if I ask nicely, that I can take pics of process.
Is vapour blasting similar to water blasting?
The ex had the shovel cases garnet tumbled, came up a treat. Makes cleaning very easy.

Originally Posted by avgas

I love threads like this - Please update us. Photos etc.
Old is always good. I even like old honda's

Shall do. My trump is 65 years older then my hondas & a lil less for me.

CC

**YellowDog** · 20th February 2010, 22:33

Great idea removing tyres bare footed.

Like having 4 hands

The rims look fine apart from a couple of heavy rust places.

They'll need grinding down as smooth as possible.

If they don't hold up then that will make that decsion for you.

Good luck.

**cc rider** · 20th February 2010, 22:47

Haha! It's so damn hot here (35), it was either no boots or no pants. I am nothing if not a lateral thinker.
I've got 3 rear rims & 1 front. Not planning on getting them chromed. Just powder coated. Will get best of, coated & maybe when I can, a pr chromed. Would kinda like to give it a flat tracker feel. Or will that just look dicky?

Thanks mate

Have more pics in my albums

**Dodgyiti** · 21st February 2010, 06:41

Vapour blasting uses high pressure water yes like waterblasting so it is as gentle as can be without introducing media like sand or silica.
The rims look a bit worse for wear. Powdercoating may not be the answer. If you 2-pot paint them you can use a hard filler to smooth out the rust pitting to get a smoother finish as powdercoating will sink into the pitting and will actually highlight it.
Try and get the spokes out first before you get too carried away, there will need to be good solid metal around the mounting holes and you will not know that until they come out. I saw a nice 500 rigid Trumpy that had black rims with the bodywork colour as the rim centre- something like that will help distract the eye from imperfections if you so choose.
If you haven't already, put the rims on an axle in the vice and check they are true/ish before fully stripping them, any buckles should be removed at this early stage as any twisting will crack powdercoating when truing them once spoked.

**cc rider** · 21st February 2010, 22:26

Thanks Dodgy. Was starting to thinking fill n' paint too. So here's the rear (best of 3) rim & hub after a clean & stripe. I'll sand them down tomorrow night.
The hub has a couple buckles & not exactly the interference fit it once was. I hope to have it repressed tonight.
Wheel is true. Did that when I bought it. Had to use extensions on the wire cutters to remove the spokes & holes look ok.
Engine & gearbox out later tonight.
Thanks for the encouragement Yellowdog

**redangel** · 21st February 2010, 23:05

wow CC, you have your work cut out.
Back in 71 I found a 38 in an old barn up Rotorua, bought it for 30.00 go it going, you could hear me coming from 5 miles a way lol
Stipped it down and rode it for some time, until my 1st T150 came along, sold it to a local Trumpy lover, he rebuilt it and gave it to a museum

I was about to powder 1 of my T150's this week, but was advised not to, as if for any reason the coating cracks, water can get in under the coating and slowly start lifting and rusting away, a good 2 pot will last the distance on a frame, but then others also swear by PC.
The rims are a hard one, if it were mine, I may be inclined to have them bead blastered, then fill out all imperfections and repaint with a 2 pot isocynic coating, cant spell for shite.
Awesome to see pics of your progress, do keep them coming.
Good luck with you rebuild

**cc rider** · 22nd February 2010, 00:01

Hmmm.... does seem like a bit of a project, aye. But all good fun.
The hard part for me is not always knowing if the parts people try to sell me are either original or suitably interchangable. I know I'll never be rebuilding to original. Happy to do my own thing. But I have ended up with some parts that sure ain't L2/1 bits. May have to have a sale after it's finished. Including a few 500 front ends & a BSA rear guard I think. lol
I'll go with PC at this stage for the frame & front end. Have a good place I've used before for the harley. The coatings you can get these days have a bit more flex to them & are less prone to cracking. Plus it'll have a rust inhibitor on & the PC is UV rated.
Am getting the rims garnet blasted, again have someone who has done previous stuff.
More pics tomorrow night, redangel. Thanks for your interest.

cheers
CC

**YellowDog** · 22nd February 2010, 05:19

There's some excellent advice and solutions there. The rims are not great. I just wonder what these processes will cost and whether it wouldn't be a lot cheaper looking for better condition spares.

**Zuki lover** · 22nd February 2010, 06:34

It sure looks like a mission. good on you girl, not sure I would have the patience to take on such a project. You're an amazing woman

**Dodgyiti** · 22nd February 2010, 07:49

Originally Posted by YellowDog

There's some excellent advice and solutions there. The rims are not great. I just wonder what these processes will cost and whether it wouldn't be a lot cheaper looking for better condition spares.

You been to a swap meet and seen suitable rims in better condition than these ones?