Daytona minimoto mods...

[Nutter34]

So, who's done what?

I've cut my expansion chamber open and found about 2" worth of pipe on the inside on the header side and about 1/2" on the silencer side. They've been removed to length and a mate is welding it up for me. Results to follow with time.

Then... One of the guys has pulled the barrel and spun the piston and barrel 180 degrees. He's going to modify the pipe to fit. It'll be a reverse cylinder, lol... The same engine has had the reeds/intake hole enlarged and fettled with, as well as the exhaust port. All in the name of fun. (Just back from there. The reed block is leaking, so it's running poorly but it runs...)

Another pipe is earmarked for the cag mod, of shortening the header and adding some into the expansion...

So, what have you guys done without spending money ie. buying performance parts?

[Nutter34]

Pics or it didn't happen...

[{.bLanK}G_o_D]

spun the piston and barrel 180 degrees.

Ya what?

I'm no 2t designer but I'm sure that is gonna fuck the flow of your motor.

[imdying]

So, what have you guys done without spending money ie. buying performance parts?

Most important thing is just putting it together carefully... perfectly running chain, perfectly setup brakes, right tyre pressures, no friction anywhere it's not wanted.

[Nutter34]

Ya what?

I'm no 2t designer but I'm sure that is gonna fuck the flow of your motor.

We had a look last night. The base of the motor is symmetrical. The transfer ports are on the sides. By turning the barrel 180 degrees, the transfer is still the same. We turned the piston to match the barrel. The barrel transfers are shaped but a lot of guys modify them too, in which case they'd be very similar.

My point of concern was more pipe length. By having a really short pipe, it may or may not result in the power band being where you want it, due to the resonant frequency being all out of whack. We need to fix the leaking reed block, before we can see how well it works...

[Nutter34]

Most important thing is just putting it together carefully... perfectly running chain, perfectly setup brakes, right tyre pressures, no friction anywhere it's not wanted.

That wasn't the question, lol...

I haven't had to touch my bike since I put the plug and fuel filter in. Apart from getting punctures etc, the bike has run quite well. (touches wood)... Actually, a few of us have been running quite reliably.

[Nutter34]

Initial impressions the other night regarding the modded standard pipe, the bike SOUNDED slower. It was warmer though and had been raining. Whether the humidity and heat had an influence, or the pipe is worse is debateble at this stage. I need to wait for a cold night before giving a final verdict. The reason I say sounded is because last time, the bike seemed to rev a lot more and quicker. Maybe the clutch likes warmer weather and doesn't slip as much as when it's cold. It seemed to grab, kind of bog the motor, then spool up again...

I never got much riding done, since I 'forgot' to lockwire my exhaust flange bolts and lost one. Spent a while looking for it, lol. Won't do that again...

Time will tell. I probably won't be riding for a few weeks.

[mr_penguin]

Lock wire ! wow now thats one thing I have never seen done on a pocket bike ! seen it a lot on full size race bikes...

That would make a lot of common sense on the two manifold bolts on the daytona ! I think I'm off to the shed to drill some
hex bolts tonight !

Thanks man !

[Nutter34]

Hahaha.

I thought it'd be one of the standard fixes...

I was running .025" between the bolts but it either stretched with heat, the gasket wore down, or the holes are wearing but they were loose after a few nights. (Or my lockwiring needs practice).

I'm now trying .032" and wired them seperately.

At least it saves them from falling out.

[mr_penguin]

I tend use blue tread lock on all my bolts and also replace every nut and bolt with non chinese hardware as the threads are crap and the metal is soft.......

On the manifold lock wire makes sense due to the heat as the thread lock don't like heat that much....

[Nutter34]

That's why we opted for the lockwire.

One guy used red locktite on his bike... I thought that was a bit keen considering the quality of the fasteners, lol...

So, will it be the start of a new craze then? Lol...

[imdying]

Just use a thread locker that has the correct heat and strength ratings...

[888mike]

Man you guys are gettin serious down there, have you got a track to ride on or just car parks, if you have a track try and pick up some B1s and you will give up gettin too serious with the daytonas

[imdying]

No track. I think we have a ZPF and 3 (4?) B1s too I tire of fixing the Daytonas... I'll either move to something European soon, or pack it in.

/edit: TBH I'll still keep the Daytona in good condition when I find a replacement; we're going to run a "Daytona Cup", open only to the Daytona bikes

[Nutter34]

We don't have a track. We just put some cones out and try out different layouts. Surface is a mix of tarmac and concrete.

It works fine for us. We are all doing it cheaply. Any mods can be done 'in-house'. No buying of performance products, lol.

The guys who did the reverse cylinder mod are rotary freaks and have done heaps of porting and tuning on theirs, so it's kind of expected they'd play with their bikes' engines. Hasn't really cost anything... Yet.

The rest of us are keeping ours somewhat standard.