Scottoiler opinions wanted

[centaurus]

The system designed by Pixie uses a brush, spreads the oil nicely through the center and side plates of the chain.

Where can I find more info about the system designed by Pixie. I tried searching the forums for "Pixie oiler" but I couldn't find anything.

[NZsarge]

Have an electronic E System on my ZX14. A few teething problems which Scot Oiler sorted out, the early units weren't quite sensitive enough for the big smooth bikes.
New firmware has sensitivity adjustment.
I commute to work 40+40km most days.
On a ride reservoir lasted Wlg Invercargill and back to Temuka before needing a topup.
A bit of oil spray, but less mess and easier to clean than spray lube.
Can up the rate if you riding in the rain.
Easy to install
Chain seems well lubed
No center stand and most paddock stands dont fit the zx14 so much less hassle
Previous chain went 30000k with spray lube, interested to see how much this one does with the oiler

Intersting, I to have a 14. Done 37000k now and the chain is still looking good but I was thinking about the E-system too, bloody expensive though.
Re: Paddock stand.
Have you tried screwing bobbins into the holes provided on the swing arm? This way you should'nt have any issues finding a paddock stand that'll work.

[PirateJafa]

Where can I find more info about the system designed by Pixie. I tried searching the forums for "Pixie oiler" but I couldn't find anything.

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...4&d=1189983530

Apart from that, you'll have to PM him, just like it says in his signature.

[sAsLEX]

Where can I find more info about the system designed by Pixie. I tried searching the forums for "Pixie oiler" but I couldn't find anything.

pm Pixie would be the best bet to see if he is still making them.

Re: Paddock stand.

I can make custom rear stands if needed

[Flip]

I had a vacuum Scott oiler on my last bike a 1200 Triumph Trophy. The chain had done 80,000km and was still going strong and In 80,000 I only adjusted it once.
My bike would drop a few drips after a long ride because the oil would collect around the front sprocket than slowly run off. It also used to leave a little oil on the rear wheel and under the luggage. I never thought this was an issue because the chain was always oiled and clean, soapy water is cheap compared to a $400 chain every 15,000 km which was the life of the first chain. The Scott oil is actually easy to wash off.
I did have a large reservoir tank that went behind the number plate, I could never get it to transfer oil to the oiler and gave up on it in the end and just used to top up the tank every week or so. Check the motor oil top up the Scott oiler was my routine.
I would not have another chain driven bike without one, well mine saved me many thousands of dollars and saved me a lot of maintenance.

[oldrider]

This pro-oiler setup looks very good. Do you know if anybody in NZ sells these?

They make some interesting claims. They say the O-Rings needs lubrication. I thought the lubricant for the O-Rings was sealed in, so they they didn't need any additional lubricant?

They say that the O-Rings experience degradation from UV light? How would UV light get into the O-Ring, and even if it did, would it really brake down the O-ring?

They talk about distributing oil to the outer plates using their dual nozzle delivery system. Since when did the outer plates need lubricant? Everything I've ever read suggested only the inner pins needed the lubrication.

I bought mine direct from the manufacturer, (via the Nett) he was great to deal with.

p.dath: You would be best to ask the manufacturer all those questions, he's easy to talk to!

[boman]

I have one on the SV. Works a treat. Little mess, no fuss. Just fill her up when I think of it and go. I wouldn't own another chain driven bike without one.

[SS90]

When I was an apprentice, the company I worked for also rented bikes, and in 1999, the started using Aprilia Pegaso's, which was a bit of a worry, as they had chain drives, and we always used shaft drive before that.

Because the owner of the buisines was a tight fisted so and so, he would not spring for the Scott oiler originally, he opted for some cheap "motion" activated system (a shuttle ball system)

It worked, and I can't remember why, but we did fit one to one of the bikes (Scott oiler)

Man, I tell you, the difference was profound with the cheap system (you never adjusted the chains the whole season), and it was no different to the expensive Scott oiler (that required more labour to fit anyway).

I never used one personally, but every chain drive bike I had would get 50,000 km from a chain and sprocket, no problem whatsoever.

I did service my chain regularly though.

I hear stories of people getting 80,000 km and so on with automatic oiling systems, and personally, I think they are well worth the investment.

Next time I have a bike with a chain drive, I recon I would fit one.

[Dschubba]

Yes I have (got bobbins). The cheapie paddock stand I have scratches the swingarm when in use. Most others have a more acute angle in their geometry and the 14 is quite long.
Ive taken it into several shops any haven't found a paddock stand that works well and lifts the bike easily. Most get caught up under rear guard.
The geometry on the cheap stand i have is ok, but the sockets aren't fixed and it is not ideal. Custom made an option i guess.

[p.dath]

...The problem I have is if I leave the sitting for 4 hours or so the oil starts dripping onto the ground. To begin with you don't notice it much. But if you keep parking it in the same place (aka your garage) you notice an oily stain/mess forming.

Ater all of the positive comments about Scott Oilers I decided to look further into mine. I went down to the local bike mechanic (on a different matter) and asked if he could gaze at it for 10s. It seems my one is missing a bit of the tip that fits onto the delivery hose, and he said it could be causing my problem. I guess some of the residual oil is running out of the delivery hose when the bike is off.


He told me it is easy to get the spare parts, and the bit I need is cheap. So I have him ordering it in for me. So I'll give it another go.

[NordieBoy]

Ater all of the positive comments about Scott Oilers I decided to look further into mine. I went down to the local bike mechanic (on a different matter) and asked if he could gaze at it for 10s. It seems my one is missing a bit of the tip that fits onto the delivery hose, and he said it could be causing my problem. I guess some of the residual oil is running out of the delivery hose when the bike is off.


He told me it is easy to get the spare parts, and the bit I need is cheap. So I have him ordering it in for me. So I'll give it another go.

If the tube is too large in diameter air can get in and oil can ooze out.

[jonbuoy]

Ater all of the positive comments about Scott Oilers I decided to look further into mine. I went down to the local bike mechanic (on a different matter) and asked if he could gaze at it for 10s. It seems my one is missing a bit of the tip that fits onto the delivery hose, and he said it could be causing my problem. I guess some of the residual oil is running out of the delivery hose when the bike is off.


He told me it is easy to get the spare parts, and the bit I need is cheap. So I have him ordering it in for me. So I'll give it another go.

If its fitted to the bike can you see any air bubbles in the hose between the dosing unit and the sprocket feeder? If there are any air bubbles it means there is a leak between the doser and the hose - air is getting in and oil is dripping out. If no air bubbles in the pipe take the dosing unit off, stand it upright with a newspaper underneath it - if it drips oil its fucked end of story - no vacuum should mean its switched off. Connect a tube to the vacuum point for the engine - suck on the tube and you should see the valve open and close. They are dead simple - no black magic or ju ju involved.

[p.dath]

If its fitted to the bike can you see any air bubbles in the hose between the dosing unit and the sprocket feeder? If there are any air bubbles it means there is a leak between the doser and the hose - air is getting in and oil is dripping out. If no air bubbles in the pipe take the dosing unit off, stand it upright with a newspaper underneath it - if it drips oil its fucked end of story - no vacuum should mean its switched off. Connect a tube to the vacuum point for the engine - suck on the tube and you should see the valve open and close. They are dead simple - no black magic or ju ju involved.

I don't recall weather there were bubbles or not, it's been quite a bit of time since I used it. But I'll try what you say.

[bsasuper]

I've had one,about 15yrs ago, I think its just too messy, and the price they want now for a unit, better off putting the money towards something usefull like new boots etc.I use maxima chain wax and have done for the last 18yrs, it dries so no crap sticks, and it dosnt fling off + it comes in a big can that lasts for ages.

[deanmax]

Buy one. I originally had my Scott oiler on my 1200 Bandit (145 measured rwhp) for 60,000km before I sold the bike. Original chain and sprockets looked mint at point of sale. I removed the unit and fitted it to my Hayabusa (measured 260 rwhp). I've done 25,000km and the chain and sprockets still look great. I've had the same unit for over 10 years and never had any problems. I have the small unit which gives me about 800-1,000km before refilling.