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Thread: Scottoiler opinions wanted

  1. #46
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    10th May 2009 - 15:22
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    2010 Honda CB1000R Predator
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    Quote Originally Posted by p.dath View Post
    I don't recall weather there were bubbles or not, it's been quite a bit of time since I used it. But I'll try what you say.
    I've had another person look at the Scott Oiler that came on my bike. They said it looks like someone has tried using an oil other than the "Scott Oil" at some stage, and the seals are now stuffed as a result. The unit is a complete throw away. Don't think I can be bothered spending the cash on a replacement unit.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    23rd March 2007 - 10:24
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    Black something
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    Quote Originally Posted by centaurus View Post
    I
    My riding environments vary greatly: city crawl (sometimes a few days in a row), boring m-way, or aggressive back roads fun. That's why I am worried the vacuum-based kits might not do the job and I might end up with a dry chain half the time and a oil-soaked rear wheel the rest of the time. Does the e-system solve this issue? I would hate to pay such a high amount of money just for the privilege of a temperature and G-force gauge.

    Also, I've been reading some reports of oil connectors/hoses coming off or getting jammed/stuck. Are these known/frequent issues, or they are only due to improper installation?

    As I said, I'm looking for input from people who have owned/own one of these systems for a decent amount of time, as to how practical and worthwhile are they.
    I have an e-system on my Triumph. I love it. faaantastic, and I think, worth the money.
    It's not because I don't like oiling the chain - i don't mind doing it, I just never did.

    5,000k with it on so far.. I've given it a little topup but Its not run out of oil yet.
    My chain looks fantastic. I've had no dripping, and less wheel-rim spray than when I used spray-can based shit.

    The sensitivity of the e-system is fully adjustable and works well, for the first few rides keep an eye on the screen and check its on, after that I look at the screen once a month to check the oil level.

    I thiink its worth it
    "And, look, the luscious and fecund fronds of the Silver Fern has given brilliant birth to a stupendous fruit! A red Hondaberry, desposited by a lesser known species of Plonker Gittus Maximus Idiotus."

  3. #48
    Join Date
    3rd May 2007 - 20:16
    Bike
    2005 Honda CB1300
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    Paraparaumu
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    115
    Like many things they require a bit of careful setting up - can be a bit fiddly but once you get it right then they are great. I've had mine for over a year and experience shows that I do need to adjust the setting between summer and winter (a simple task), and you get different oil for hot or cooler temps. But come on, if you're a real biker you just get on and sort it! Like you centaurus I ride 100kms per day, every work day of the year plus heaps of miles on weekend - C1kC, tours etc - and I sure as hell couldnt be buggered stuffing around with the spray can every weekend - this way it lasts for a month or more, cos I have the additional reservoir, and the twin tip dispenser. The CB900 also doesnt have a centre stand (although I did buy a paddock stand but now use a Ventura front wheel stand in my garage at home - you know, the ones where you just drive into it and it holds the front wheel - but would still have to jack up the rear). When I did have a question of Scott Oiler (it didnt seem to be lubing enough during really wet crappy weather) it was answered within 12 hours. I highly recommend them.

    Quote Originally Posted by centaurus View Post
    I have been thinking about a scottoiler system for my busa for a while now but there are some questions the reviews on the net haven't been able to answer. I am looking for opinions from people who OWN or HAVE OWNED a scottoiler for long periods.

    One of the main reasons for a system like this is the difficulty of oiling the chain on multi day rides, when I don't have a paddock stand to lift the rear wheel and I don't trust any improvisations on such a heavy bike.

    Due to the ammount of ks I put on my bike (500-1000kms every week, not including weekends) a v-system is out of the question (If I go for a long ride I would need to top-up mid-ride).

    My riding environments vary greatly: city crawl (sometimes a few days in a row), boring m-way, or aggressive back roads fun. That's why I am worried the vacuum-based kits might not do the job and I might end up with a dry chain half the time and a oil-soaked rear wheel the rest of the time. Does the e-system solve this issue? I would hate to pay such a high amount of money just for the privilege of a temperature and G-force gauge.

    Also, I've been reading some reports of oil connectors/hoses coming off or getting jammed/stuck. Are these known/frequent issues, or they are only due to improper installation?

    As I said, I'm looking for input from people who have owned/own one of these systems for a decent amount of time, as to how practical and worthwhile are they.
    Never try and teach a pig to sing: it's a waste of time, and it annoys the pig. --Robert A. Heinlein .

  4. #49
    Join Date
    8th December 2009 - 16:11
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    Nothing, sadly
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    Browns Bay
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    Just had a mosey at the Cameleon Oiler, for it's price and based on a review it's seeming like a great alternative with electric controlled oil delivery. Pro Oiler looks a bit much for me, and adjusting the Scott Oiler on a daily basis doesn't really appeal as I know I'd forget(was my first option until now).

    Product
    http://www.cameleonoiler.com/index.p...alog&Itemid=30

    Review
    http://www.webbikeworld.com/r4/camel...e-chain-oiler/

    They also review the Scott-Oiler at the site but haven't read it.

    $180USD+ship for the black model. Else you're just paying $20USD for a coloured logo.

    Also looks easier to install, wire it to the tail light, attach it near the chain and hide the tubing and you're done.

  5. #50
    Join Date
    2nd March 2004 - 13:00
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    FransAlp 700
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    Nelson
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    You adjust the Scottoiler?

  6. #51
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    10th May 2009 - 15:22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suntoucher View Post
    Just had a mosey at the Cameleon Oiler, for it's price and based on a review it's seeming like a great alternative with electric controlled oil delivery. Pro Oiler looks a bit much for me, and adjusting the Scott Oiler on a daily basis doesn't really appeal as I know I'd forget(was my first option until now).
    At most it has been talked about adjusting between seasons, but Scott Oilers do not need daily adjustment.

  7. #52
    Join Date
    2nd March 2004 - 13:00
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    FransAlp 700
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    Quote Originally Posted by p.dath View Post
    At most it has been talked about adjusting between seasons, but Scott Oilers do not need daily adjustment.
    Yep.

    If I'm going for a dusty ride or with lots of river crossings I'll adjust it to suit but otherwise it doesn't get changed at all.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    28th August 2006 - 22:14
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    2002 Hayabusa and 2001 Honda XR650R
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    Wellington
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    Hey guys,

    I ended up building my own oiler, rather than spending $2-300. The only downside is that I have to turn it on and off miself - not a big issue.

    I spent less than $20 on mine and it even has double feed injector and everything. if any of you is interested in build details, let me know and I'll post some pictures - it's really easy to make.

  9. #54
    Join Date
    3rd February 2004 - 08:11
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    2021 Street Triple RS, 2008 KLR650
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    Wallaceville, Upper hutt
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    yes please would like to see details of that, thanks
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  10. #55
    Join Date
    28th August 2006 - 22:14
    Bike
    2002 Hayabusa and 2001 Honda XR650R
    Location
    Wellington
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    Chain oiler, double feeder - build instructions

    Parts required:
    2 x plastic 1 way air tap (from animates) - see pic 3
    1 x metal 1 way air tap (from trademe) - see pic 2
    4mm clear plastic tube (mitre 10 or bunnings warehouse)
    6mm clear plastic tube (mitre 10 or bunnings warehouse)
    two ballpoint pens
    plastic bottle (will be used as oil reservoir) - choice depends on the room available on your bike.

    Procedure:
    - remove the ballpoint pens inner (the thin tubes that hold the ink) and remove the metal tips from the tubes.
    - cut the tubes above the notch that holds the pen spring and blow out the ink
    - remove the screw-in top from one of the plastic taps and cut its horizontal tube half way through.
    - in the remaining "stump" fit a piece of 4mm tubing with a wire in it. The wire will allow you to bend the tube to 90 degrees and keep the bend at the desired angle
    - for standard ballpoint pens, the pen inner tube will fit in the piece cut from the tap which will fit in the other end of the plastic tube fitted in the "stump" (see previous step).
    - fit the other ball-point inner tube in the other tap entry point (the vertical tube).

    Some ballpoint inners are a bit thicker so they will fit directly into the 4mm tube, which means you will need to make an adapter for the vertical tap tube like in pic 1. Here I used longer pen inners so I reinforced the setup by wrapping a thick wire mid way through over the two parallel tubes to keep them at a certain distance from each other - this is not necessary.

    On the other end of the plastic tap (the end where you unscrewed the top) you can fit a short piece of the 6mm plastic tubing and on the other end of the 6mm plastic tubing insert the 4mm plastic tubing.

    This is your double feeder that will be mounted on the swingarm. Easiest way is with a piece tin/sheet metal wrapped around the feeder and secured in the spool screw or if that's not an option, you can tie it to the swingarm with zip ties. You can get creative here.

    the 4mm tube coming out of the feeder will go up the swingarm and attach to the thick end of the metal air tap using a piece of 6mm tube as adapter (the 4mm tube is the same thickness as the thick end of the metal tap). This tap gets mounted somewhere easily accessible and will be your on/off switch.

    on the other end of the metal tap fit 4mm tube which will run all the way to the second plastic air tap that you've (hopefully) purchased. This tap will be for adjusting the oil flow and needs to be hidden so you don't bump it and change the oil flow setting by accident. If you cant hide it, wrap duct tape around it so the tap won't rotate by accident.

    From the plastic tap run another tube directly in the bottom of the bottle that will hold the oil. Attach another small tube on the cap of the bottle as breather and make sure the bottle points up when mounted so you won't have oil pouring out of this tube.



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  11. #56
    Join Date
    28th August 2006 - 22:14
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    2002 Hayabusa and 2001 Honda XR650R
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    Wellington
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    Chain oiler, double feeder - pictures

    Here you have a few pic of my setup on the busa. sorry for the dirty bike - I'm riding it every day and it had been raining for more than a week at the time when the photos were taken.
    I've been running this setup on the busa for a couple thou' ks and the feeder works great, hasn't moved an inch and hasn't been damaged by sprocket or chain in any way.

    pics 2, 5 and 6 - the positioning of the oil feeder/injector and how I secured it to the swingarm
    pic 4 - a 2 way plasic air tap (I had no unused 1 way tap to photograph) with the top unscrewed and a cutoff from another tap. The 1 way tap has just one horizontal arm as opposed to two like in the picture
    pic 3 - the oil flow tap positioning (under the rear seat, with the oil reservoir)
    pic 1 - the oil bottle. you can also see here the tap from pic 3

    I'm currently fitting another feeder on my XR650 if anyone wants to see photos once its done

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  12. #57
    Join Date
    28th August 2006 - 22:14
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    2002 Hayabusa and 2001 Honda XR650R
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    Wellington
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    The positioning of the on/off tap

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