To Speed Triple or not Speed Triple

[beyond]

Ah running in. What to do on your brand new investment? Thrash the crap out of it and hope that website was correct?

I've cut open all my oil filters - not one hint of metal in them - first one at 1,000 kms, but it is a Honda not a Triumph.....

The most reasonable running in procedure I have read (and used) is at 919.org - shameless stolen and posted below for your perusal. In miles, as he is an American. You'll also find his method uses higher revs than the Triumph one - ie max 75% of revs for first 240 kms - Triumph will recommend less.

Break In Procedures

When I break-in a bike I try to follow a very serious order of operations & so far I have had very good success with it. My last 3 new bikes have always dynoed at the upper end of the horsepower scale when compared to the same model bikes on the same dyno.
These are the guidelines I use for all my new bikes:

Lots of heat cycles! run it & let it cool off, run it & let it cool off.

#1 rule is never maintain a steady speed during break-in. Always keep the revs going up & down. Nothing is worse on a new bike than putting miles on it at a steady rpm especially on the interstate.

For the 1st 150 miles I take it real easy never exceeding 75% of the redline(i.e if redline is 10,000 then I would not go over 7500) I take extra special care to listen for as well as feel any anomalies in the valvetrain and driveline. I am also very smooth on the throttle no jerky movements or ham fisted off & ons & I never hold the throttle at the higher rpms if I go to 7500rpm I immediately shift & bring the rpms back down.

From 150 to 250 miles I try to liven up the process by introducing brief spurts up to 90% of the redline, but once again I never stay there immediately bring the revs back down & maybe once or twice run it to the redzone & back down but don't hit the hard limiter.

250 to 600 miles It's spirited riding, but still making sure to keep the rpms fluctuating & I routinely take it up to close to redline without hitting the hard limiter.

600 miles I change the oil & inspect it thoroughly, hell I even cut open my oil filters & look LOL

600-1200 miles normal riding but still with caution & smoothness in my actions & I still try to vary my rpms on the highway even though by now that's damn near impossible cause I'm usually commuting to different rides.

After 1200 miles I flog it, wheelies & top end bursts, but I still don't hold it wide open for any real duration of time until around 1500-1700 miles.

Many RC51 Owners have commented that they have followed these instructions & their personal results were right along the results I have reported in that their bikes also produced dyno charts that were at the upper end of the scale for power output of similarly or identically equipped machines. There is no guarantee that my way works nor any scientific tests to prove it, but commonsense & the dyno results should go a long way in helping you to decide what is the best way to break your bike in properly.

A couple other notes:

Yes there are professional tuners out there that recommend that you flog the hell out of the bike right from the start to instantly seat the rings etc & yes I will admit that those bikes have in many cases produced a little more peak horsepower initially, but what everyone fails to realize is that those professional race tuners are going to end up rebuilding that motor at least once if not twice a season (sometimes more often than that) & they don't care if engine wear is accelerated or not. Most of us want a reliable good performing motor & my break-in procedures will give you that. I've been doing this for many years & living in Memphis have seen many bikes bought in the afternoon & being dragraced that evening & they always end up smoking within about 1500 miles.

The aviation industry has without a doubt the most explicit & detailed break-in procedures for internal combustion motors. The reason for this is that they MUST be reliable as an engine failure in the air has the potential to be alot more dangerous than an engine failure on the ground. Their engine break-in regimens consist of many of the exact same key elements that mine do. Heat cycles, no initial steady rpms & ever increasing rpm peaks.

One final note is that even though the engine may be broke in properly many times the transmission still takes longer. It is not uncommon for a motorcycle transmission to need 1800-2000 miles to get fully broke-in & during that time is susceptible to accelerated wear just as the motors are. You may even notice that the more miles you put on your bike the better the transmission starts to work. During break-in keep your shifts solid & smooth, use the clutch for both upshifts/downshifts & just generally be aware that all new metal parts need time to bed in properly.

This is exactly how I have run in all my cars and motorbikes with huge mileages put on them without problems, no oil burning and long life out of the engines plus willing engines that produce more power.

[Headbanger]

After dropping 20 grand on a Speed Triple there was only one way I was going to break it in, exactly as the manufacturer specified, Took all of a couple weeks, I got to know the bike as I done it, and I could feel the engine come to life as I eased her up the rev-range.

An enjoyable time with a brand new bike.

Not interested in the slightest with what some internet warrior thinks I should do with my pride and joy.

[sinned]

Plan to run it in correctly from the time you pick up the bike takes a bit of planning. A mistake is to pick it up at the end of the day and get stuck in traffic so you cannot load and unload the motor. I picked up my new bikes in the middle of the day so the road was mine and I used the 10kms home to load up the motor and then slow with engine braking. When I got home I let it cool down and then out again. The section of motorway from Tawa to Churton Park is ideal in non peak times - on ramp acceleration, slow down speed up a few times then off ramp and around the loop on ramp acceleration a few times to bring up 50kms.

As you have to wait to get the bike there is time to plan your first 10, 50, 100kms running in rides. Then for the next few hundred kms don't ride for any period without varying the load. That's what I did - who knows if it made much difference, it was fun though.

[sinned]

After dropping 20 grand on a Speed Triple there was only one way I was going to break it in, exactly as the manufacturer specified, .

Except that is not how those bikes on demo to motorcycle journalists are run in. They are raced, thrashed, tested from new and word is no harm is done and they run well after that treatment.

[Rogue Rider]

Well, dangerous move bro, I went in with my old bike for a routine check, ended up going for a ride on the triple while I waited........ Never went back lol, rode it home, then told the shop they could keep my bike and did a swap. No more rocket 111, Speed Triple 1050 and feeling free.
There is no comparison to the SV on any level really, the engineering and quality is alot superior from stock. I had a K31000s and it was very average by comparison.
The Triple winds up like a storm, love the sound with open bore cans. Shocks a adjustable and corner like glue. The bike is incredibly lite weight, there is only 5kg diff from the sv650? so not really even noticeable.
The clunky gear change will be related to the rev range you are changing. If you change gear in the 4-5k+ range as per spec then it transitions smooth and swift with no clunk.
I love my triple, its fluru trumpy green, The green machine.....
Its my commuter for my 51km trip to work every day. My only recommendation is, it's definately a riders bike, if you lke an upright riding position, its awesome, low wind drag, and it feels like your honking at 120km/ p/hr..... Love it.
I did add chub bars, dampers, heated grips, ventura rack and rail, and, fly screen and seat cowl. My cans are the trumpy genuine race cans, currently manufacturing my own that will be even louder and better.

Owh, and never had an easier trick bike, wheelies and stoppies, no prob. Bike does it virtually on its own, so don't share it lol.

I took my first test ride on a Speed Triple yesterday. It was a bad idea. I've put it off knowing if I liked the bike, I'd want to just ride it home.

Interestingly, I had envisaged the bike excelling the SV650 in all areas. What I found is the step up from a 250 to the SV was a lot more than I felt going to the Speed Triple. The good thing is the Speed fit like a hand cover. I was totally at home in the first 5 minutes.

Things I noticed....
- Speedy is nearly as bumpy over rough surfaces as the SV. This was most suprising as I expected a plusher ride... but of course that isn't what a Speed triple is about
- The engine goes mental at about 4 - 5krpm. This is a good thing. It means it can happily chug along below or give you a cardio workout above.
- The brembo brakes make the SV's feel like a sponge is doing the job. They have lovely bite and effortless application
- The Metzler Sportec M3 (?) tyres heated up nicely - even for a mild mannered cornerer like me on a cool day
- Speedy feels much more planted during the corners. Bumps which would cause a bit of headshake on the SV weren't apparent. I put it down to the bigger forks, better suspension and increased weight
- Speedy wasn't as flickable, but could be rider technique / learning to turn her in effectively
- The gearbox literally clunks. Not a negative - call it "gear change aural reinforcement". There is a big movement required to go from first to second. I'd need to adjust the lever down a bit otherwise I'm asking my foot to bend in a direction it wasn't designed to do
- Seat height higher. I can get both feet flat on the ground, but on uneven surfaces Id need to be careful (I'm about 5'10" give or take an inch)
- Well made
- Exhaust note quite a bit different to the VTwin of the SV
- Radiator fan quite noisy at idle / waiting at the lights
- Bloody lovely looking bike (burnt gloss orange)

My dilemma is I can get a good deal on the new bike. My dilemma is because I am trying to justify in my own mind whether I as a rider can use all she has to offer, but also justify whether it is worth 3+ times the used value of my SV650.

If I didn't have the SV650 - the decision to buy would be an immediate yes. This either tells me I've become attached to the SV, it suits my riding style well, or the SV is a really good lilttle bike.

[sinned]

Well, dangerous move bro, I went in with my old bike for a routine check, ended up going for a ride on the triple while I waited........ Never went back lol, rode it home, then told the shop they could keep my bike and did a swap. No more rocket 111, Speed Triple 1050 and feeling free.
There is no comparison to the SV on any level really, the engineering and quality is alot superior from stock. I had a K31000s and it was very average by comparison.
The Triple winds up like a storm, love the sound with open bore cans. Shocks a adjustable and corner like glue. The bike is incredibly lite weight, there is only 5kg diff from the sv650? so not really even noticeable.
The clunky gear change will be related to the rev range you are changing. If you change gear in the 4-5k+ range as per spec then it transitions smooth and swift with no clunk.
I love my triple, its fluru trumpy green, The green machine.....
Its my commuter for my 51km trip to work every day. My only recommendation is, it's definately a riders bike, if you lke an upright riding position, its awesome, low wind drag, and it feels like your honking at 120km/ p/hr..... Love it.
I did add chub bars, dampers, heated grips, ventura rack and rail, and, fly screen and seat cowl. My cans are the trumpy genuine race cans, currently manufacturing my own that will be even louder and better.

Owh, and never had an easier trick bike, wheelies and stoppies, no prob. Bike does it virtually on its own, so don't share it lol.

Stop this - I might have to buy another one.

[Corse1]

I've just brought an 09 speedy and loving it. Bling so far,fly screen,hugger,bar end mirrors. Yet to arrive, Leo Vince low mount slip on. Sitting in a box is an Ohlins shock fresh from CKT. These bikes do have the X factor and I know you'll just love it.

Hmm don't mind me asking...how much for the Ohlins??

On the subject of thread....Great move on the purchase and suspension should be one of your priority upgrades. You will get sick of bouncing all over the road

Running In. Mines an 06 registered ex Bayride demo so I assume it did not get babied in the first few kilometers. I am up to 22500 now being the third owner and no oil is used between changes. Suggests that the theory of demo bikes attaining good life out of the motors could be true...long way to go to prove that theory though.

Friggen nearly lost hold of the LH handlebar taking off from the lights today after a bit of lane splitting and giving it a bit of bif from the lights.

So my disappointments after a year and a half ownership
1..suspension too harsh with minimal adjustment but ok for the track
2..still getting used to the chirping straight cut gears
Otherwise its all fantastic

[Headbanger]

Except that is not how those bikes on demo to motorcycle journalists are run in. They are raced, thrashed, tested from new and word is no harm is done and they run well after that treatment.

No concern of mine how some bikes Ive never owned and never would own have been treated.

People are free to choose whatever method they like to use, I merely stated my preference.

Having said that, I have bought a demo bike before, and how it had probably been mistreated by twats was taken into account.

Pity I didn't take into account how shithouse the workshop service at ANZA would be instead.

[GMcC]

There is no logic just an emotive love for a thing of beauty. The only downside is one day you will regret selling it.

Yep + 1
I`m on me 3rd Speedy and after mixing it up with a few other bikes I can say its one of the delights in life !!!
Had a K6 SV1000 from new and it did ride well - tho with no soul to it
Sprint 1050 x 2, KTM 990, Buells x 2 - Uly and 1125R, S2R 1000, V Strom 1000, VTR 1000,
The 2010 SE has better suspension config compared to my last 2 - 08 / 09 models
Apparantly the valving and internals are totally revised front and back - tho it can be harsh on slow backcountry pot holy type roads ( seems that most of ours are ! )
Tracks way better than previous 1s - feels more planted - same hoops - M3s
Sounds just as sweet and with 3000+ ks on her shes startn to get its breath
Last 2 really loosened up from 8 - 10 thou kms so...................
They are a great piece but each to his own eh

[Gubb]

Fuck yeah!

10 points Dave.

[HenryDorsetCase]

I've pulled the trigger. Deposit is down, bike bought!

I will pick it up on full payment - probably around mid-august.

Thanks Motorad!

good stuff!

[John_H]

Well, dangerous move bro, I went in with my old bike for a routine check, ended up going for a ride on the triple while I waited........ Never went back lol, rode it home, then told the shop they could keep my bike and did a swap. No more rocket 111, Speed Triple 1050 and feeling free.
There is no comparison to the SV on any level really, the engineering and quality is alot superior from stock. I had a K31000s and it was very average by comparison.
The Triple winds up like a storm, love the sound with open bore cans. Shocks a adjustable and corner like glue. The bike is incredibly lite weight, there is only 5kg diff from the sv650? so not really even noticeable.
The clunky gear change will be related to the rev range you are changing. If you change gear in the 4-5k+ range as per spec then it transitions smooth and swift with no clunk.
I love my triple, its fluru trumpy green, The green machine.....
Its my commuter for my 51km trip to work every day. My only recommendation is, it's definately a riders bike, if you lke an upright riding position, its awesome, low wind drag, and it feels like your honking at 120km/ p/hr..... Love it.
I did add chub bars, dampers, heated grips, ventura rack and rail, and, fly screen and seat cowl. My cans are the trumpy genuine race cans, currently manufacturing my own that will be even louder and better.

Owh, and never had an easier trick bike, wheelies and stoppies, no prob. Bike does it virtually on its own, so don't share it lol.

How are they for wind at speed, does the bikini fairing do much?

[davebullet]

Ah running in. What to do on your brand new investment? Thrash the crap out of it and hope that website was correct?

I've cut open all my oil filters - not one hint of metal in them - first one at 1,000 kms, but it is a Honda not a Triumph.....

The most reasonable running in procedure I have read (and used) is at 919.org - shameless stolen and posted below for your perusal. In miles, as he is an American. You'll also find his method uses higher revs than the Triumph one - ie max 75% of revs for first 240 kms - Triumph will recommend less.

Thanks Allan,

I found this one before you posted as well. Seems to me here are the key points:
1. Heat cycles are good and allow the sleeves to expand / contract / settle. In other words, you don't want to do 1,000 kms in one stint to bed in your rings. You need block expansion / contraction and sleeve bedding in as well as the rings so they all mate together properly

2. The first 50 - 100kms are critical for ring bed in. Proper engine loading / unloading is critical to ensure proper ring mating to the bore and avoid "rounding off" the rings which lead to poor compression and worse, oil consumption and oil contamination from blow by gases. By loading, that would be running the speedy from about 4 - 7krpm (near peak of the torque curve, or 75% as noted on cb919.org) using half to full throttle. Unloading is using engine braking, by not snapping off but rolling off and allowing the engine to fully brake the bike (no assistance from the brakes).

3. Load and unload the engine to about 75% RPM

4. Vary revs

5. Never labour (lug) the engine at low revs ever in the run in period

6. Use a mineral oil to help the ring bedding process

7. Check the oil before the first 1,000kms service for metal particles. You can recycle if clear, but if full of glitter, replace oil and filter (why would you want that pumping around your engine until first service?)

8. Gearboxes can take a lot longer to break in. All gears need to be exercised to remove slurry / grease etc. Ensure you give all gears some sort of workout before the first dealer 1,000km service so the sludge can be drained out. In the first 50 - 100kms sacrifice the higher gears in order to do the engine loading / unloading (eg. use 1st / 2nd / 3rd) or risk a government donation via Mr. Plod.

sinned - thanks for the advice to pick up mid day and plan the first few rides. A very good way of keeping me busy before xmas arrives in August

[Corse1]

How are they for wind at speed, does the bikini fairing do much?

Seems to have quite a lot of effect on mine. I don't find wind blast a problem at higher speeds. Haven't tried it without though.

Another thing is the light front end wich can result in a "light" handlebar weave one you get over the ton. Its not dangerous but can be unerving the first couple of times. Accellerated through one at 170 kph and buttoned off another time when it occured at 211kph. Not on public road of course

It might only affect the earlier 1050 speedy's. Ive read test articles where they have experienced this on the track also.

[javawocky]

I've only met one disappointed owner of the Street tripple - some poor sod who couldn't crack much more than 200k's down the back straight at Pukekoe because of the wind resistance.

Other than that you should be fine

(Test road the Daytona and loved the midrange surge which sends the front wheel sky-rocketing. I would choose it over the Street tripple, but that's just me.)