To Speed Triple or not Speed Triple

[BuzzardNZ]

if you like your sv650 so much, have you considered the SV1K ?

[F5 Dave]

Re the suspension, I've figured as much. I have some fork cartridge emulators for the SV I've never bothered putting in.

I would be paying in cold hard cash. I never buy depreciating assets on tick (a false economy).

I would have money left over to do suspension and other mods... but I'd first rather just get to know the bike, get intimate (that sounds sick, but if I'm honest, I'm a sick person deep down).
. . . .

Then do it. Life it short, but if you have play money then play.

I've done suspension mods on bikes I've owned for years & kicked myself for not doing it earlier. With the Tiger & went in straight away. I knew the suspension was crude. The front made biggest difference & seeing the internals it's not hard to see why.

[davebullet]

if you like your sv650 so much, have you considered the SV1K ?

I did think about that, but I've always had a crush on Triumphs - especially the original street fighter! (oh gawd, the marketing has got to me!)

Dont' get me wrong, the SV1k with upgraded suspension and brakes would be a killer machine... but they just lack the attitude / look I am after

I will miss my VTwin rumble. However I like the sound of the speedy which I'd describe as almost angry. It sounds like a god damn tornado!

Then do it. Life it short, but if you have play money then play.

I've done suspension mods on bikes I've owned for years & kicked myself for not doing it earlier. With the Tiger & went in straight away. I knew the suspension was crude. The front made biggest difference & seeing the internals it's not hard to see why.

I'm going to opt for some look at me bits (flyscreen and bellypan) - I do like them. The flyscreen will be carbon so not in your face orange like the rest of the bike. I will also get a hugger for keeping it cleaner.

I can see a suspension upgrade in a year or 2. Mr. Taylor will be called upon. I won't risk off-shore or monkeying around myself. A false economy when you need specialist advice for NZ specific conditions and your own riding requirements (weight = average and style = bad ).

[davebullet]

I've pulled the trigger. Deposit is down, bike bought!

I will pick it up on full payment - probably around mid-august.

Thanks Motorad!

[Stirts]

I've done it!

High fiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiive!!!

[davebullet]

High fiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiive!!!

Damn - can't give rep again! - thanks!

Now I've just got to go home and explain the "logic" of the decision

[Stirts]

Now I've just got to go home and explain the "logic" of the decision

Easy............."See these pants? I wear them" let me know how that works out

[F5 Dave]

13 min since my post. I'll claim credit.

On ya. Enjoy.

[sinned]

Now I've just got to go home and explain the "logic" of the decision

There is no logic just an emotive love for a thing of beauty. The only downside is one day you will regret selling it.

[slofox]

I took my first test ride on a Speed Triple yesterday. It was a bad idea. I've put it off knowing if I liked the bike, I'd want to just ride it home.

Interestingly, I had envisaged the bike excelling the SV650 in all areas. What I found is the step up from a 250 to the SV was a lot more than I felt going to the Speed Triple. The good thing is the Speed fit like a hand cover. I was totally at home in the first 5 minutes.

Things I noticed....
- Speedy is nearly as bumpy over rough surfaces as the SV. This was most suprising as I expected a plusher ride... but of course that isn't what a Speed triple is about
- The engine goes mental at about 4 - 5krpm. This is a good thing. It means it can happily chug along below or give you a cardio workout above.
- The brembo brakes make the SV's feel like a sponge is doing the job. They have lovely bite and effortless application
- The Metzler Sportec M3 (?) tyres heated up nicely - even for a mild mannered cornerer like me on a cool day
- Speedy feels much more planted during the corners. Bumps which would cause a bit of headshake on the SV weren't apparent. I put it down to the bigger forks, better suspension and increased weight
- Speedy wasn't as flickable, but could be rider technique / learning to turn her in effectively
- The gearbox literally clunks. Not a negative - call it "gear change aural reinforcement". There is a big movement required to go from first to second. I'd need to adjust the lever down a bit otherwise I'm asking my foot to bend in a direction it wasn't designed to do
- Seat height higher. I can get both feet flat on the ground, but on uneven surfaces Id need to be careful (I'm about 5'10" give or take an inch)
- Well made
- Exhaust note quite a bit different to the VTwin of the SV
- Radiator fan quite noisy at idle / waiting at the lights
- Bloody lovely looking bike (burnt gloss orange)

My dilemma is I can get a good deal on the new bike. My dilemma is because I am trying to justify in my own mind whether I as a rider can use all she has to offer, but also justify whether it is worth 3+ times the used value of my SV650.

If I didn't have the SV650 - the decision to buy would be an immediate yes. This either tells me I've become attached to the SV, it suits my riding style well, or the SV is a really good lilttle bike.

I swapped my SV650S for a GSX-R600 recently. Can't say I miss the SV AT ALL!

[ukusa]

I've pulled the trigger. Deposit is down, bike bought!

I will pick it up on full payment - probably around mid-august.

Thanks Motorad!

how the hell can you wait that long, it'll seem like months!

[davebullet]

how the hell can you wait that long, it'll seem like months!

Good point. Right now, I'm still in la la land having bought it. I think in the next couple of days time will begin to slow waiting for D day.

The issue is mine (not Motorads - they said "do you want it for the weekend?"). I'm waiting for a payout, hence the delay. But at least I've secured it and it will be MINE!

[AllanB]

Ah running in. What to do on your brand new investment? Thrash the crap out of it and hope that website was correct?

I've cut open all my oil filters - not one hint of metal in them - first one at 1,000 kms, but it is a Honda not a Triumph.....

The most reasonable running in procedure I have read (and used) is at 919.org - shameless stolen and posted below for your perusal. In miles, as he is an American. You'll also find his method uses higher revs than the Triumph one - ie max 75% of revs for first 240 kms - Triumph will recommend less.

Break In Procedures

When I break-in a bike I try to follow a very serious order of operations & so far I have had very good success with it. My last 3 new bikes have always dynoed at the upper end of the horsepower scale when compared to the same model bikes on the same dyno.
These are the guidelines I use for all my new bikes:

Lots of heat cycles! run it & let it cool off, run it & let it cool off.

#1 rule is never maintain a steady speed during break-in. Always keep the revs going up & down. Nothing is worse on a new bike than putting miles on it at a steady rpm especially on the interstate.

For the 1st 150 miles I take it real easy never exceeding 75% of the redline(i.e if redline is 10,000 then I would not go over 7500) I take extra special care to listen for as well as feel any anomalies in the valvetrain and driveline. I am also very smooth on the throttle no jerky movements or ham fisted off & ons & I never hold the throttle at the higher rpms if I go to 7500rpm I immediately shift & bring the rpms back down.

From 150 to 250 miles I try to liven up the process by introducing brief spurts up to 90% of the redline, but once again I never stay there immediately bring the revs back down & maybe once or twice run it to the redzone & back down but don't hit the hard limiter.

250 to 600 miles It's spirited riding, but still making sure to keep the rpms fluctuating & I routinely take it up to close to redline without hitting the hard limiter.

600 miles I change the oil & inspect it thoroughly, hell I even cut open my oil filters & look LOL

600-1200 miles normal riding but still with caution & smoothness in my actions & I still try to vary my rpms on the highway even though by now that's damn near impossible cause I'm usually commuting to different rides.

After 1200 miles I flog it, wheelies & top end bursts, but I still don't hold it wide open for any real duration of time until around 1500-1700 miles.

Many RC51 Owners have commented that they have followed these instructions & their personal results were right along the results I have reported in that their bikes also produced dyno charts that were at the upper end of the scale for power output of similarly or identically equipped machines. There is no guarantee that my way works nor any scientific tests to prove it, but commonsense & the dyno results should go a long way in helping you to decide what is the best way to break your bike in properly.

A couple other notes:

Yes there are professional tuners out there that recommend that you flog the hell out of the bike right from the start to instantly seat the rings etc & yes I will admit that those bikes have in many cases produced a little more peak horsepower initially, but what everyone fails to realize is that those professional race tuners are going to end up rebuilding that motor at least once if not twice a season (sometimes more often than that) & they don't care if engine wear is accelerated or not. Most of us want a reliable good performing motor & my break-in procedures will give you that. I've been doing this for many years & living in Memphis have seen many bikes bought in the afternoon & being dragraced that evening & they always end up smoking within about 1500 miles.

The aviation industry has without a doubt the most explicit & detailed break-in procedures for internal combustion motors. The reason for this is that they MUST be reliable as an engine failure in the air has the potential to be alot more dangerous than an engine failure on the ground. Their engine break-in regimens consist of many of the exact same key elements that mine do. Heat cycles, no initial steady rpms & ever increasing rpm peaks.

One final note is that even though the engine may be broke in properly many times the transmission still takes longer. It is not uncommon for a motorcycle transmission to need 1800-2000 miles to get fully broke-in & during that time is susceptible to accelerated wear just as the motors are. You may even notice that the more miles you put on your bike the better the transmission starts to work. During break-in keep your shifts solid & smooth, use the clutch for both upshifts/downshifts & just generally be aware that all new metal parts need time to bed in properly.

[Owl]

I've pulled the trigger. Deposit is down, bike bought!

I will pick it up on full payment - probably around mid-august.

Thanks Motorad!

Great stuff, you'll love it!

Pity you weren't looking a few weeks ago, as Anza had a new SE for 18k. It wasn't there long!

[ernie953]

I've just brought an 09 speedy and loving it. Bling so far,fly screen,hugger,bar end mirrors. Yet to arrive, Leo Vince low mount slip on. Sitting in a box is an Ohlins shock fresh from CKT. These bikes do have the X factor and I know you'll just love it.