Gear shifting for noobs?

**Matariki** · 18th March 2010, 15:43

Hey guys,

I didn't really know where else to post this so mods if you want to move this thread please do so.

I am very new to riding motorcycles and I am keen to get my learners licence. I have been practicing everyday.

However I get a little stuck when I comes to shifting gears. Its not going up the gears thats the problem, its going down them. My bike tends to slow down and becomes heavy it also makes a strange grinding noise (can't be good for the gear box) before shooting off again like a rocket.

So what its the correct way to shift down the gears without looking like a noob?

The other question I have is, what do you do if you are driving up a hill and you accidently shift your bike into neutral and you start going down hill, backwards? This happended to me the other day, and It was quite a scary experience. I braked, however I couldn't go into first gear because the bike kept moving backwards.

So I turned the bike around and went down the hill, turned around and went back up.
However what would be the best thing to do If this happened on a public road?

**avgas** · 18th March 2010, 16:16

Practise
Empty car park
Learn to use all gears over and over again.

Will be the easiest advice you will get here about how to get over your problem. Big supermarket carparks (make sure empty so no car drives into you) are the best - as yes you can get a GN into top gear less than 50kph......I wouldn't go lower than 20kph in top gear though. But it is possible.

**Jonno.** · 18th March 2010, 16:23

It sounds like you're not releasing the throttle while down shifting, it goes like this: throttle down, clutch in, down a gear, clutch out, throttle out. Also search "blipping" on here, might help you.

**sleemanj** · 18th March 2010, 16:36

Use the clutch as a variable thing, not "on and off", sounds like you might just be "dropping" the clutch when you change.

If you hit neutral or a false-neutral ("between gears") going up hill, just change down, re-stabilise your speed, and try again, unless you're going vertical or really really slow speed you won't instantly start rolling backwards, you have inertia. Practice hill starts, up the hill, pull over and come to a complete stop. Now take off again. Again, clutch and brake control are important here, neither is "on and off", they are variable and his helps you in this situation.

Either brake should be able to hold you on a hill really, if they don't, get it checked out, maybe you need an adjustment.

**Matariki** · 19th March 2010, 02:36

How you would go about on parking on a hill?

Iv'e tried it but the bike started to slide down the hill.

**cowboyz** · 19th March 2010, 03:24

praking on a hill.. always facing uphill.. with bike in gear..

dont park across a hill or facing downhill..

**YellowDog** · 19th March 2010, 05:22

Hey Hotkebab, practice makes perfect and it is good to read that you are practicing.

BUT it really does sounds you really do need a mentor to help you through with the basics.

Good luck.

**The Baron** · 19th March 2010, 06:46

Hi
Practice is the answer. Large car parks are good for this. My family used to practice at Burridges car park on Sunday mornings. Its large, sealed and has gardens to ride around. You may need someone to get you and your bike there if you don't have a learners yet. The south end of Masterton has Solway Bottle store (Cobb & Co) car park. Also good on Sundays.

**BiK3RChiK** · 19th March 2010, 08:43

Originally Posted by Hotkebab

So what its the correct way to shift down the gears without looking like a noob?

The other question I have is, what do you do if you are driving up a hill and you accidently shift your bike into neutral and you start going down hill, backwards?
However what would be the best thing to do If this happened on a public road?

I think the first question has already been answered, but as to your second one, use the rear brake. This is the right foot brake instead of the brake on the right handle bar. Sometimes the gearbox can 'lock up' or 'bind up' when there is pressure on the box, so you just might need to find first gear by rocking the bike and looking for first gear at the same time. Obviously when trying to get it in gear, you'll be using the front brake on the right bar. When ready to take off, change from the front brake to the foot brake.

Originally Posted by Hotkebab

How you would go about on parking on a hill?

Iv'e tried it but the bike started to slide down the hill.

See Cowboys post above... or try to avoid parking on hills

Sounds like you are doing the right things.... practice, practice, practice. But also, see if you can find a mentor who will help you out.

All the best and welcome to KB and motorcycling...

**centaurus** · 19th March 2010, 09:41

Downshifting is a tricky one for all beginners. It took me a very long time to get it right and smooth. In theory, you are supposed to engage the clutch, blip the throtle and downshift at the same time, re-engaging the throttle immediately. If this is done properly, the shift goes smooth (blipping the throttle ensures the engine revs match the new gear vs. your speed). However, to begin with, there is a slower but easier way: engage clutch, downshift, slowly re-engage clutch while you twist the throttle very slightly. If the engage the clutch slowly, in case the engine revs are not right, the wheels will speed up/slow down the engine without a big jerk. Once you get your hand, this process will go faster and faster and when you can match the engine revs with the speed, you can start doing all at once.

On uphill starts, your rear brake (foot brake) is your friend. If you get stuck in gear uphill, you first hold the front brake and the engage the clutch, put the bike in neutral, put your left foot down and press the rear brake with your right foot, then release the clutch and the hand brake. Now you are stationery, in neutral. When starting uphill, use the front brake (right hand) while you pull the clutch and engage first gear. Once first gear engaged, keep the clutch in but press the rear brake (right foot) and release the front brake so you can use the hand on the throttle.

**CookMySock** · 19th March 2010, 09:52

Originally Posted by sleemanj

Use the clutch as a variable thing, not "on and off", sounds like you might just be "dropping" the clutch when you change.

Too much brain time is consumed easing the clutch out, when attention should be directed to more important tasks at hand.

The clutch is not for smoothing out badly-timed gear changes. The clutch is for starting off, and disconnecting the heavy flywheel from the gearbox so as to not damage the gearbox during changes, or slide the rear tyre on slippery surfaces.

Starting off - clutch in, select 1st gear, ease out clutch until engine revs drop 100rpm, then raise engine revs about 500rpm with the throttle, and release clutch lever only 1cm more and hold it there the bike will likely move away on its' own - it it does not, release the clutch lever another 1cm. If the engine revs drop well down below idle, add another 500rpm with the throttle - this gets more noticeable on steep hills. If you release the clutch fully at this time you will stall the engine. Most of your attention will be directed at concentrating on not releasing the clutch lever until the bike is moving and your feet are up - only then release the clutch fully.

Changing up; after moving away in 1st gear, raise the revs a comfortable amount and simply throttle off, clutch, and lift the gear lever firmly and release it immediately, and smartly release the clutch. The more practice you do, the smoother it gets. Do not try to slip the clutch out smoothly - just release it suddenly, and fix any resultant jerkage by practicing the timing of the whole movement. Smoothness will come in time. Keep your eyes up!

Changing down; from 50km/hr approx, simply throttle off, clutch, push the gear lever down firmly and release it, and smartly release the clutch. There is no magic and no need for any cleverness. Rinse and repeat as the bike slows. If the bike is too jerky, then change at a lower engine rpm.

Steve

**sinfull** · 19th March 2010, 10:22

You will get the gist of changing down with practise !

A tip i gave my lady for hill starts was 3 stage
1/ park yr front wheel against a wall, put it in first and with 2 feet on the ground slowly let the clutch out till you feel the bike start to push against the wall, now hold the clutch right there without stalling (not for too long as it does cause wear on the clutch) try that a few times till you get to know where the point of engaging meets stalling !

2/ Same position with 2 feet on the ground but no wall in front of you, pull on the front brake with two fingers and practise applying a little gas with the brake on (you'll soon get a rythem where you can twist the throttle while holding the brake) , now put the bike in gear and put two feet down again, hold the front brake on and slowly let the clutch out till you feel the bike engage and tug forward but wont move due to the front brake being on, you may need to add a little gas to stop it stalling (hence the throttle brake pactise)

3/ while you have the bike tugging but not stalling with the brake on slowly let the brake out and you will smoothly take off !

Now try it on a hill !

**Matariki** · 19th March 2010, 14:10

Originally Posted by The Baron

Hi
Practice is the answer. Large car parks are good for this. My family used to practice at Burridges car park on Sunday mornings. Its large, sealed and has gardens to ride around. You may need someone to get you and your bike there if you don't have a learners yet. The south end of Masterton has Solway Bottle store (Cobb & Co) car park. Also good on Sundays.

Do you know if there are lessons held there?

**The Baron** · 19th March 2010, 15:01

There were two people who do the BHS and one of them used Burridges and the other uses Solway Bottle store carpark. I haven't seen Burridges used for a while but it could still be - There was someone taking the BHS at Solway just last week. I would think that both would do trainings (at a price).