XLR125 questions...

[Padmei]

Will - stay away form DR250s REPEAT stay away from DR250s!!

[Willdat?]

Will - stay away form DR250s REPEAT stay away from DR250s!!

Yes that lesson does poke me in the eye everytime I go into the garage...

I think last weekend was a bit of an eye opener in terms of what I've still got to learn as a rider (and a farkler too - sorry Colin!). At my current level of riding ability I'll just be falling off faster on a bigger bike. My off on the way down Hurricane hill (the one where it slipped into neutral and ran away on me into a ditch) would have ripped the radiators off a DRZ400.

The sprocket question was to experiment while I've got the stator cover off (also covers the front sprocket ). As it stands I still don't know where to get 12/13 teeth ones so I can't do it anyway!

Anyone know what that little channel is in the OP can I just fill it with knead it?

[cooneyr]

Gidday Will. Get a JT sprocket which any bike shop should be able to get their hands on. I'm pretty sure I got a JTF259 12 to 17 tooth. Will see if I still have the 13 tooth I took off in the garage to confirm the JT number. Edit - yep JTF259 is the right one.

As for the oil leak there are three seals behind the cover that could be the issue. The main crank shaft seal which is in a bolted on carrier behind the flywheel (can see one of the 8mm bolt in your pic, forward of flywheel). The second is a small O ring behind netural switch (the thingame with the green wire in your pic). Just use a pair of plyers an pull the switch out. Be gentle with the plyers cause it is plastic. Turn it as you pull helps too. The third seal is an O ring on the oil filter bypass. Again behind the flywheel. Single 10mm bolt (lower right when looking at where flywheel was). This is a stupid system as it has a single off set bolt. When you put it back in give it a tap with a hammer for every turn or two of the bolt else it will likely jam/bend/break.

I replaced all of the seals but I suspect it was the O ring on the oil filter bypass. My suggestion is to give the whole area a really good clean (CRC) go for a ride around the block (don't bother putting the cover on) then check where the oil is coming from and replace the seals as needed.

All of this can be done with a basic socket set, plyers and a suitable instrament for removing the flywheel (tap with a soft hammer or a block of 4x2 or similar loosens it )

Cheers R

[cooneyr]

....Anyone know what that little channel is in the OP can I just fill it with knead it?

Don't fill that channel. In fact make sure it stays open. It works as an oil drain (obviously) but it also lets water out if you dunk it or condensation. There is no gasket on that side cover so it will not keep water out even if you seal the drain.

Cheers R

[Willdat?]

As for the oil leak there are three seals behind the cover that could be the issue. The main crank shaft seal which is in a bolted on carrier behind the flywheel (can see one of the 8mm bolt in your pic, forward of flywheel). The second is a small O ring behind netural switch (the thingame with the green wire in your pic). Just use a pair of plyers an pull the switch out. Be gentle with the plyers cause it is plastic. Turn it as you pull helps too. The third seal is an O ring on the oil filter bypass. Again behind the flywheel. Single 10mm bolt (lower right when looking at where flywheel was). This is a stupid system as it has a single off set bolt. When you put it back in give it a tap with a hammer for every turn or two of the bolt else it will likely jam/bend/break.

I replaced all of the seals but I suspect it was the O ring on the oil filter bypass. My suggestion is to give the whole area a really good clean (CRC) go for a ride around the block (don't bother putting the cover on) then check where the oil is coming from and replace the seals as needed.

All of this can be done with a basic socket set, plyers and a suitable instrament for removing the flywheel (tap with a soft hammer or a block of 4x2 or similar loosens it )

Cheers R

Thanks Ryan...so what you're saying is that there shouldn't be oil in there at all? Makes sense as to why it's so much cleaner than the DRs stator area!

Wife is away until 6 tonight, I reckon I can tidy the house and sort that today!

[Willdat?]

Don't fill that channel. In fact make sure it stays open. It works as an oil drain (obviously) but it also lets water out if you dunk it or condensation. There is no gasket on that side cover so it will not keep water out even if you seal the drain.

Cheers R

Bizarre, mine does have a gasket, but what you're saying makes complete sense. I thought that was the source of the leak rather than a indicator.

Awesome, thanks heaps!

I'm going to play with a can of CRC now, I shall be back!

[cooneyr]

One more thing. I think I ended up putting two seals (the old one and a new one) on the oil filter bypass in frustration. Still not leaking now (I ride with the new owner occasionally).

[ADVGD]

Will - stay away form DR250s REPEAT stay away from DR250s!!

Will - stay away form Padmei REPEAT stay away from Padmei. He offers bike selection advice yet rides a KLR

[Willdat?]

Will - stay away form Padmei REPEAT stay away from Padmei. He offers bike selection advice yet rides a KLR

I have a 1988 Suzuki DR250S that sometimes goes that owes me close to 5k so he speaks the truth! If I get all my jobs done today I may have a look at ordering a carb kit for it

And in fairness to Padmei he has tried to make it look like something other than a KLR with the Tenere stripe and R1 pipe

[NordieBoy]

Will - stay away form Padmei REPEAT stay away from Padmei. He offers bike selection advice yet rides a KLR

He rides lots of bikes but owns a klr...

[Transalper]

...
Second, last weekend I noticed oil leaking from bottom of engine (stator cover side). Took cover off today and noticed this built in flaw, does it serve a purpose other than slowly losing all my oil on the road?

If the stator is supposed to be in a dry area (and I think it is) then the designer flaw would be a designer drain hole designed to allow oil out if the oil seal behind the stator around it's shaft starts to fail.
When the seal is starting to wear it lets oil through and that's the only way you will know the seal is failing is when oil starts dripping from that hole....
The F650 I use to own had the same arrangement with the water pump. When the seal started to fail coolant started dripping from a little hole under pump housing to tell me trouble is looming.

Edit: I see the question was already answered on page 2.

[Woodman]

How the hell did this turn into a KLR bashing thread.

Will, you would be fine on a bigger bike, and anyway seeing the xlr run away on you down hurricane hill was a highlight of my day.

Anyway those offs are like gold in an educational sort of way. Unless your the kind of person who can study and learn.

[ADVGD]

How the hell did this turn into a KLR bashing thread.

Crickey, sorry about that, I was at my keyboard and the words just sprang from my fingers as if it was gods work... who am I to contest such authority

[Padmei]

He rides lots of bikes but owns a klr...

Yep you took the words out of my mouth

I love riding OP bikes & have only found a couple that aren't to my taste (or riding ability more honestly).

The only reason I would steer Will away from the DR250s is his past problems with his one ( & a mate has alson found a similar unknown problem with his DR250) Nordies DR650 & the others DRZ 350s& 400s rock!!

BTW KLRs are ghey & have too much plastic & too heavy & butn oil & blah blah blah but Feck I have a good time on mine Wahooo!

Anyway as you were & hope you got the house clean today Will?

[warewolf]

Sorry mate, you going the wrong way. A reduction upfront will increase RPM at top end speed (and make it scream like a toddlers tantrum if you try to push it), a reduction on the rear will decrease RPM at top end speed (if the motor has the oomph to match the gearing)

The last bit is the critical thing. The motor don't have the oomph so Will is correct.

Current gearing is too tall to pull 5th beyond 4th. Shortening it a bit may let 5th rev up in to power and add some speed.

13T will pull 4th's top speed down to 79km/h.
12T will pull 4th's top speed down to 73km/h.

Possibly 5th can pull away from one of those lower speeds, build revs/power and keep going past 85km/h.