Bike choice! Time to change?

[countryguy]

[QUOTE=Transalper;1129879922]I feel a 'tried to tell you' coming on from back when you were originally asking how to get the 650 more trail friendly.

Yep Fair enough...Do like the DR though, won't be changing unless its a real improvement.

[Taz]

Wr250r.....

[That looks like fun]

Wr250r.....

So what x akaly are you trying to say here

[countryguy]

Wr250r.....

Yea but its quite a bit taller than the DR...sounds really good though

[Taz]

So what x akaly are you trying to say here

I dunno really. I'm not all that bright.....





















WR250R or a road reg WR250F

[DR650gary]

We have a DR200 as well as the 650. The Dr200 trucks along at 110 ish max with me on the open road, after all the Keintech mods, and can move me reasonably well on the beach and tracks. Not sure what suits you but I am a fairly large bloke and would rather be astride the 650 than the 200 on the road and on the track.

I can easily get the bike crawling when necessary and I run the standard gearing.

Cheers

[brp]

[QUOTE=countryguy;1129879955]

I feel a 'tried to tell you' coming on from back when you were originally asking how to get the 650 more trail friendly.

Yep Fair enough...Do like the DR though, won't be changing unless its a real improvement.

XR650 a Real improvement on a DR650 - "What ya reckon Transalper ?"

Had a whirl on a 2005 YZ250F and was impressed - like a modern day xr250 - guy that owns the yz had it for years now and is rough on it , does no maintenace, has spent no dollars on repairs and it still goes well.

[Transalper]

XR650 a Real improvement on a DR650 - "What ya reckon Transalper ?" ...

I think I'd choose the L version with Electric leg but the low height box will be the box not ticked again with a XR650.

If it really is only the crawling speed that matters then maybe do the 520 chain conversion and go with the really big rear sprocket on the DR650, but in doing that the highway speed end may become as uncomfortably revvy and slow as a good 250cc bike anyway.

I liked the DR250 Djebel with 17 litre stock metal tank for a bit of adventuring but for a 250 it was possibly heavy and gearing become a bit of a compromise choice again... highway 120km/hr or better 1st gear for trail. It never was going to feel as light and manoeuvrable as my CRF230 on the single track but then the CRF is geared so low it dont get much over 90km/hr and sound like it will explode if I could have pushed the revs further.

[buggsubique]

you can cut the seat down on the 400... also it may come down to a bit of riding technique / clutching on your DR. Rather than idling across rivers (if that's how you're doing it?) my clutch gets a bit of a workout to get through it in bursts. My AT gets across rivers without too much drama and it aint a low geared trail bike. Weight is my issue.

[Pampera]

you can cut the seat down on the 400... also it may come down to a bit of riding technique / clutching on your DR. Rather than idling across rivers (if that's how you're doing it?) my clutch gets a bit of a workout to get through it in bursts. My AT gets across rivers without too much drama and it aint a low geared trail bike. Weight is my issue.

In my view the first question to ask before "what bike" is "what is the mission". If the mission is riding longer distances than a small bike is going to be very compromised on the road legs and a larger more comfortable bike which will be less convenient off road is probably the optimum compromise. If the mission is mainly off road then road comfort and durability is of little importance and there are plenty of small road legal trail type bikes to chose from. Only the rider can determine what their desired "mission" is.

It is when you try to achieve good performance in both areas that the choice becomes limited and probably impossible.

Gearing is one compromise and slipping the clutch is one way to extend the useability of a set of gears. That is why they are multi plate and run in oil!

A good way to cross rivers and rough areas is to hold a constant throttle a bit above idle (2500 rpm or so on an F650GS ) slip the clutch slightly and drag the back brake lightly to control speed. Throttle or clutch can be adjusted when more drive is needed. I usually used the clutch and left the throttle set. Allows slow speed and forward progress to overcome rocks and so on while leaving comfortable gearing for road (an F650 idles at 20 km/h!). My first F650 went on countless adventure rides 2 up and the only consequence I saw in 36,000 km was worn out rear brake pads (before the front set).

Michael

[NordieBoy]

If it really is only the crawling speed that matters then maybe do the 520 chain conversion and go with the really big rear sprocket on the DR650, but in doing that the highway speed end may become as uncomfortably revvy and slow as a good 250cc bike anyway.

16/46 (112 link chain) is about the same as stock with a 14 front.

I carry 14-15-16 fronts.
So I can go to the same ratio as stock with a 12 front in less than 5 mins.

[countryguy]

16/46 (112 link chain) is about the same as stock with a 14 front.

I carry 14-15-16 fronts.
So I can go to the same ratio as stock with a 12 front in less than 5 mins.

I've got a 13 front fitted with stock chain and rear.

Are you suggesting changing the rear and chain and fitting a 12 to gear lower but still carry original front ( I also have a 16 front). Where would you get a 12 front, I had enough trouble finding the 13.

[NordieBoy]

I've got a 13 front fitted with stock chain and rear.

Are you suggesting changing the rear and chain and fitting a 12 to gear lower but still carry original front ( I also have a 16 front). Where would you get a 12 front, I had enough trouble finding the 13.

Ahhhh, nope.

46 rear with a 14 front is basically same as 12/41 but the sprocket/swingarm/slider will last a bit longer.

[clint640]

The WR-R is still fairly tall, but it does carry it's weight quite low. A revvy motor compared with the DR650 but with a nice wide ratio box to suit.

I've only ridden a DRZ400 briefly but it felt more top heavy, more vibey & more grunty. The spread of gear ratios on a DRZ400 is pretty narrow, your DR has more spread of ratios, so it would have just been the sprockets making the difference.

Both the Kawasaki Super Sherpa & the old XT225/pre 08 XT250 have a really good gear spread, the new XT250 isn't too bad either, all these have a nice low seat height but the downside is cheap short travel suspension. The CRF230 has a good gearing range also, & a smidge more suspension travel that inevitably means a taller seat. These bikes are all fine if you have a sit down & nana it riding style but if you prefer to stand up & fang it then the WR-R with it's several grand worth of proper suspension is the tool for you.

Cheers
Clint

[brp]

I think I'd choose the L version with Electric leg but the low height box will be the box not ticked again with a XR650.

Havn't ya heard - "If it hasn't got one of UNCLE FLIP'S KICKERS it isn't a real motorbike!!! Up the proverbial with the latest DR if ya battery dies or starter motor craps out in the boonies - no back up kick start - what were they thinking ?

Low height box ? Good for 188 KMH off the shop floor, with all the torque plenty of room to play round with different sprockets to suit ya purpose.